Axial SCX10 build - My first kit.

[electricrc68]

Originally Posted by Natedog

W0W, that is fawked...call Axial and tell them to send you a properly molded housing! WTF Axial?



Don't use any loctite on the axle ends...it does nothing but waste loctite.

I mean the manual just said a drop of loctite so thats what I did. I got them out though, so thats good.

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

My axle housings were warped just as badly.

Wow Axial needs some new machinery!

Originally Posted by 6sharky9

So did that move the bearing out so it fit outside of the groove instead of on top of it?..lol

Lol yes, it did. I have to thank RCSparks' video for the tip.

Originally Posted by gdb85

The last couple sets of cases I assembled looked like that also. LOL

Not a big deal, once the lockouts or C's are pushed on everything is fine. No slop in the bearings at all.

Like others have stated, no loctite on the lockers. I'm pretty sure, although it's been a long time since I looked at an assembly book, that Axial actually shows a drop of loctite to be applied to each shaft going into the locker, could be wrong IDK.

Ahh I see! Yeah after I installed them differently, everything went together just fine.




I'll post more pictures of the progress soon!

[electricrc68]

So this is what the axles look like now that everything is aligned properly:






Muuuch better.

Also, got the driveshafts assembled...that took about an hour.




And now the shocks took a good 2 hours (yes I forgot the small part at the top on three shocks...gonna fix that now ):




The shocks are a little bit stiff though...at least it feels like that.

[6sharky9]

Look inside your bags of parts and you should have 2 Trusses like the one youll install on the rear..Convert your front 3 link to a 4 link..That 3 link comes apart and has massive play in it after a good 10 runs or so.

The piece looks like this...Should have this front and rear...But youll need to get front upper links to complete it in the front.

[Calderwood]

The spring cup should be under the bump stop.

[daltrey]

Calderwood is right. Here is a great writeup by axial on building the shocks. I took my bump stops off completely just to get more articulation out of the shock. Some people also cut them in half to get a little more articulation too. Also when you join the driveshafts make sure to align the screws on the male and female shafts or you will get alot of chatter from the weight not being evenly distrubuted. There is a special note at the bottom of the manual in exclamation marks but it doesn't explain it very well.

Axial Racing - Axial – ICON Vehicle Dynamics 61-90mm Aluminum Shocks – Step by Step Build

Also here is a great video on aligning the driveshaft splines and pins to eliminate chatter.

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=acrSdzzniiw

[electricrc68]

Originally Posted by 6sharky9

Look inside your bags of parts and you should have 2 Trusses like the one youll install on the rear..Convert your front 3 link to a 4 link..That 3 link comes apart and has massive play in it after a good 10 runs or so.

The piece looks like this...Should have this front and rear...But youll need to get front upper links to complete it in the front.

Ah okay thanks for the tip! I'll check it out. Are there any additional parts I would need to buy for that to be completed? Sounds like I might since you said I would need to get front upper links to complete it in the front.

Originally Posted by Calderwood

The spring cup should be under the bump stop.

Originally Posted by daltrey

Calderwood is right. Here is a great writeup by axial on building the shocks. I took my bump stops off completely just to get more articulation out of the shock. Some people also cut them in half to get a little more articulation too. Also when you join the driveshafts make sure to align the screws on the male and female shafts or you will get alot of chatter from the weight not being evenly distrubuted. There is a special note at the bottom of the manual in exclamation marks but it doesn't explain it very well.

Axial Racing - Axial – ICON Vehicle Dynamics 61-90mm Aluminum Shocks – Step by Step Build

Oops! My mistake. I'll take them out completely so that I can get more articulation...thanks guys!

[6sharky9]

Just the links/ends and maybe a longer screw to go through to hold the links..other than that you shouldn't need anything else..Can get a screw and a lock nut at the hardware store for less than 1 dollar more than likely...Its a 3mm screw.

And yea take those rubber stoppers off..Actually they would fit on the shock shaft inside the spring..so they aren't on right anyways...but take them off..They are actually meant to stop upward travel..But most take them off for better improved articulation...That's another reason your shocks feel stiff..they are already being compressed ..The cups should be down by the shock ends..that will drop your springs a whole bunch..youll have to re adjust the play in the springs.

[electricrc68]

Originally Posted by 6sharky9

Just the links/ends and maybe a longer screw to go through to hold the links..other than that you shouldn't need anything else..Can get a screw and a lock nut at the hardware store for less than 1 dollar more than likely...Its a 3mm screw.

And yea take those rubber stoppers off..Actually they would fit on the shock shaft inside the spring..so they aren't on right anyways...but take them off..They are actually meant to stop upward travel..But most take them off for better improved articulation...That's another reason your shocks feel stiff..they are already being compressed ..The cups should be down by the shock ends..that will drop your springs a whole bunch..youll have to re adjust the play in the springs.

Thanks! I did all that, and its much better now.


Some more pictures of the progress. I decided to keep the 3 link truss for now.





I changed the pinion to a Robinson Racing Pinion Gear 48P 16T and the spur to a Kimbrough Differential Gear 48P 87T per a recommendation of a member here:





Got these glued up yesterday night:




And now I'm on step 26!!!

[electricrc68]

Some more progress tonight:

Got my servo mount on:



Deans connector installed onto the holmes hobbies BRXL ESC:





Yeah, I burned a little bit of the connector off...I happen to do that a lot. My soldering skills are not that great.

Anyway, on ward!

Got the servo (Hitec HS5645MG) installed:





The black rubbery stuff around the servo is plasti-dip for waterproofing in case anyone was wondering.

The last thing I just finished:





And thats where I'm stopping for today...calling it a night.

[6sharky9]

Heres another tip...turn your driveshafts around so the ribbed part is up near the transmission...Less chance of hanging up on a rock and damaging the drive shafts...On the driveshafts youll find 2 little line marks..those have to be lined up no matter which way you install them or it will drive like crap.

[electricrc68]

Originally Posted by 6sharky9

Heres another tip...turn your driveshafts around so the ribbed part is up near the transmission...Less chance of hanging up on a rock and damaging the drive shafts...On the driveshafts youll find 2 little line marks..those have to be lined up no matter which way you install them or it will drive like crap.

Cool thanks for the tip! I didn't think of that...I'll check tomorrow and see how my driveshafts are installed.

Yep, I read about the line markings in the manual...I always make sure they are lined up, which they seem to be. 1 or 2mm off won't make a huge difference though right? Just want to make sure in case they are slightly off.

[6sharky9]

just make sure they are on the rib that lines them up the best.

[TacoCrawler]

it's called "phasing"

there is a little > on each end of the male/female drive shafts
Those need be aligned to ensure the drive shafts are phased correctly.

Phasing is simply that both ends of the drive shaft joints
align the universal pins exactly the same.
Meaning both are turning in unison with each other.

If they are out of phase...
the drive train will cog severely.
And one might think something else is amiss.

If they are off by a single spline, or two...
it can still be noticeable and annoying.
As well as being at fault for accelerated DS wear.

So I recommend phasing the DS's spot on.

It's not a difficult thing.
tho' if it's not done correctly during the original build...
it should be removed and redone.

While you have those apart...
add a plastic rod from the parts tree (free scrap)
Insert those into each male drive shaft and cut off flush.
This will help keep the male spline shaft from twisting under load.

The ID of the male DS is 6mm...
you could use other things like 6mm thread all...
But the plastic solid rod from the parts tree scraps work best.

You will need remove the nubs and burs from that rod
so that it will push in easily.

Whatever you use...
don't use wood doweling...
'cuz if that gets wet or absorbs moisture it will swell...
then fubar the male DS permanently.

^ ask me how I know

[6sharky9]

Originally Posted by TacoCrawler

it's called "phasing"

there is a little > on each end of the male/female drive shafts
Those need be aligned to ensure the drive shafts are phased correctly.

Phasing is simply that both ends of the drive shaft joints
align the universal pins exactly the same.
Meaning both are turning in unison with each other.

If they are out of phase...
the drive train will cog severely.
And one might think something else is amiss.

If they are off by a single spline, or two...
it can still be noticeable and annoying.
As well as being at fault for accelerated DS wear.

So I recommend phasing the DS's spot on.

It's not a difficult thing.
tho' if it's not done correctly during the original build...
it should be removed and redone.

While you have those apart...
add a plastic rod from the parts tree (free scrap)
Insert those into each male drive shaft and cut off flush.
This will help keep the male spline shaft from twisting under load.

The ID of the male DS is 6mm...
you could use other things like 6mm thread all...
But the plastic solid rod from the parts tree scraps work best.

You will need remove the nubs and burs from that rod
so that it will push in easily.

Whatever you use...
don't use wood doweling...
'cuz if that gets wet or absorbs moisture it will swell...
then fubar the male DS permanently.

^ ask me how I know

You use a 3s?

[electricrc68]

Originally Posted by 6sharky9

just make sure they are on the rib that lines them up the best.

Originally Posted by TacoCrawler

it's called "phasing"

there is a little > on each end of the male/female drive shafts
Those need be aligned to ensure the drive shafts are phased correctly.

Phasing is simply that both ends of the drive shaft joints
align the universal pins exactly the same.
Meaning both are turning in unison with each other.

If they are out of phase...
the drive train will cog severely.
And one might think something else is amiss.

If they are off by a single spline, or two...
it can still be noticeable and annoying.
As well as being at fault for accelerated DS wear.

So I recommend phasing the DS's spot on.

It's not a difficult thing.
tho' if it's not done correctly during the original build...
it should be removed and redone.

While you have those apart...
add a plastic rod from the parts tree (free scrap)
Insert those into each male drive shaft and cut off flush.
This will help keep the male spline shaft from twisting under load.

The ID of the male DS is 6mm...
you could use other things like 6mm thread all...
But the plastic solid rod from the parts tree scraps work best.

You will need remove the nubs and burs from that rod
so that it will push in easily.

Whatever you use...
don't use wood doweling...
'cuz if that gets wet or absorbs moisture it will swell...
then fubar the male DS permanently.

^ ask me how I know

Ah okay thanks guys! I'll check them and make sure that they are lined up.

[electricrc68]

Got the chassis built and transmission installed:



Front axles have also been installed:

[electricrc68]

I got the rear axle installed but have hit a problem. Looking from the back, the right side shock seems to be squished up against the chassis, and is rubbing big time. I have pictures of the installation along with comparison of left and right side shock.

Axle installed...seems a little crooked...I think that may be the problem:



Right side shock:




Left side shock:




The assembly:




Where did I go wrong?

[jdmguy760]

Looks like left bottom link is on outside of shock on bottom mount right side looks to be inside shock

Sent from my Optimus G Pro using Tapatalk

[electricrc68]

Originally Posted by jdmguy760

Looks like left bottom link is on outside of shock on bottom mount right side looks to be inside shock

Sent from my Optimus G Pro using Tapatalk

Thanks! Actually, I found that one of the links was too short, so I changed it out to the correct one, and its all good now. I guess I must have not read the small numbers in the manual correctly when I assembled the axle.

[TacoCrawler]

I was gonna tell you to check the lengths of the lower links...
but then... you already found the fault.


FYI...

the lower links control/designate the wheel base length settings.

the upper links control/designate the axle's forward/rearward rotation...
affecting the caster settings at the knuckles.