New SSD SCX10 axle housings

[BadWagon]

Originally Posted by Capwn

Except SSD themselves acknowledged there was an issue.. So much for your theory..


I did abandon the D60, Using TKOs on several rigs. Not a single issue, really a well built and thought out product. KUDOS. Take notes SSD. When a minor flaw was discovered ( one of people snapping the ends of the housings off from driving too rough ).. He pulled all the axles, and reworked the design .. What a good company does ;)


Also using a SSD diamond on another rig, Again, no issues.

Its not as if I don't know how to assemble things and drive them, Its that the product is not made as well as other products available , Even a product from the same company..

Yep, they did. SSD also said only a small percentage of people have even contacted them about the issue, and that they are addressing it.

On a side note, You need to check how you talk to people on this forum. You have no right to speak to the other members as you do. Respect other's opinions and experiences as you'd have people respect yours.

[JgGonzo]

Originally Posted by rustneversleeps

off topic.I see you been a member for 3 years and this is your first post..Just asking..

Good catch..... Just enjoy the hobby and all it has to offer. This site has helped me make some great choices through the years. Greatly appreciated.

[Capwn]

Saying things like " Only you have this issue " when thats obviously not true , Is that respecting me? Should I show respect to those who insist on trying to shit on me and downplay a ACKNOWLEDGED issue?

Show respect to those HAVING issues, If you want those having the issues to even care about those NOT having issues.. See how one group might be a bit saltier than the other eh??

Shitting on users having issues, telling them their experience essentially does not matter.. And then you wonder why I might be a bit -_-

[BadWagon]

I never said "only you have this issue". I said the only people I've heard of with it are here. Please read more carefully.

I stated that it sucks you've had this issue, and it does. No body is down playing it.

You've jumped all over anyone who isn't flipping out and ready to start a lynch mob. It's a anti-constructive way to discuss a situation. I haven't shit on anybody, but you've done exactly that to other members and SSD in this thread.

We all get it, you're super pissed. But it's hard to empathize with someone when they are lashing out at everyone who hasn't had the same experience.

Chill. Nobody is shitting on you, only asking that you don't do it to others.

[mikemcE]

Never until I started RC have I seen and heard so many spoiled kids who don't want to work towards anything.


Hang up and Drive

[rustneversleeps]

Originally Posted by JgGonzo

Good catch..... Just enjoy the hobby and all it has to offer. This site has helped me make some great choices through the years. Greatly appreciated.

Yes i was the same way at first watch and learn now i.m committed to do build threads...great forum eh...

[tjohanne]

This thread is soon good enough to be my Saturday night's entertainment... It's really entertaining (or I just have a very pathetic life)

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[Jeepy84]

Originally Posted by tjohanne

This thread is soon good enough to be my Saturday night's entertainment... It's really entertaining (or I just have a very pathetic life)

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If you are starting at the beginning, more power to ya, lmao

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[Crawler_Wookie]

I apologize for the long post, but here is a solution to the 11mm bearing issue.

I found a way to enlarge the nylon axle housing to accommodate a 12mm bearing. By bringing the nylon axle housing to above the glass transition temperature in boiling water, one can reshape the housing for a larger bearing rather than remove material and weaken the housing. The first axle I did was a bit of trial and error. This worked better on the second axle once I figured out what needed to be done and the proper sequence.

1. Purchase 5x12x4mm bearings (2 per axle)

2. Find a 5/16” Craftsman ¼” drive deep socket (11.5mm outer diameter) and a 5/16” Craftsman nut-driver (11.8mm outer diameter). These will be used as mandrels to resize the bearing housing. The slight tapering on the outside of the socket and nut-driver will help guide these into the bearing housings.

3. Place the axle housing in a pot of water and bring it to a boil. Allow the axle to boil for 2 minutes so the axle is at 100°C. This heats the nylon to above the glass transition temperature.

4. Remove the axle from the boiling water, hold the housing with a rag, and immediately work the smaller 11.5mm mandrel into the bearing housing, both inside and outside bearing housings. Do this until the mandrel can be easily forced into the bearing housings. The 11.5mm mandrel should go into the bearing housing with just a little force.

5. With the axle still warm, force the larger mandrel into the inner bearing housing and place the axle (with large mandrel inserted) back into the water. Bring to boil and allow boiling for 2 minutes. This will heat both the axle housing and the large mandrel to 100°C.

6. Remove the axle/mandrel from the boiling water, hold with a rag, and work the large mandrel around in the inner bearing housing. Remove the large mandrel and work it into the outer bearing housing. Now the bearing housing is resized. Before inserting the 12mm bearings, check for any nylon debris in the bearing housings. The first axle I resized has a bit of debris I had to remove so the inner bearing would sit flush. The second axle I resized did not have this debris.

7. Position the 12mm bearing over the outer bearing housing and apply an even force with the large mandrel to seat the bearing into the housing. Tap with soft hammer if needed. The outer bearing should go in fairly easily. Insert the outer bearing first.

8. Insert the 5mm diff pinion shaft into the outer bearing backwards, gear side out. The shaft will act as a guide while inserting the inner bearing.

9. Position the inner bearing over the 5mm pinion shaft and use the large mandrel (nut-driver) to apply an even force to the 12mm bearing. Use a block of soft wood to push against so the pinion gear is not damaged. Use a small soft hammer to knock the bearing into place.

10. Remove the diff pinion and install it correctly. Assemble the axle components.

Now will you have 12mm bearings pressed into the pinion bearing housings. Since the axle was heated to above the glass transition temperature of nylon while the holes for the bearings were stretched, the axle will be able to accommodate the new larger bearings without splitting or cracking. After doing this, there is absolutely no pinion bearing play in the axle.

[svt923]

Originally Posted by Crawler_Wookie

I apologize for the long post, but here is a solution to the 11mm bearing issue.

I found a way to enlarge the nylon axle housing to accommodate a 12mm bearing. By bringing the nylon axle housing to above the glass transition temperature in boiling water, one can reshape the housing for a larger bearing rather than remove material and weaken the housing. The first axle I did was a bit of trial and error. This worked better on the second axle once I figured out what needed to be done and the proper sequence.

1. Purchase 5x12x4mm bearings (2 per axle)

2. Find a 5/16” Craftsman ¼” drive deep socket (11.5mm outer diameter) and a 5/16” Craftsman nut-driver (11.8mm outer diameter). These will be used as mandrels to resize the bearing housing. The slight tapering on the outside of the socket and nut-driver will help guide these into the bearing housings.

3. Place the axle housing in a pot of water and bring it to a boil. Allow the axle to boil for 2 minutes so the axle is at 100°C. This heats the nylon to above the glass transition temperature.

4. Remove the axle from the boiling water, hold the housing with a rag, and immediately work the smaller 11.5mm mandrel into the bearing housing, both inside and outside bearing housings. Do this until the mandrel can be easily forced into the bearing housings. The 11.5mm mandrel should go into the bearing housing with just a little force.

5. With the axle still warm, force the larger mandrel into the inner bearing housing and place the axle (with large mandrel inserted) back into the water. Bring to boil and allow boiling for 2 minutes. This will heat both the axle housing and the large mandrel to 100°C.

6. Remove the axle/mandrel from the boiling water, hold with a rag, and work the large mandrel around in the inner bearing housing. Remove the large mandrel and work it into the outer bearing housing. Now the bearing housing is resized. Before inserting the 12mm bearings, check for any nylon debris in the bearing housings. The first axle I resized has a bit of debris I had to remove so the inner bearing would sit flush. The second axle I resized did not have this debris.

7. Position the 12mm bearing over the outer bearing housing and apply an even force with the large mandrel to seat the bearing into the housing. Tap with soft hammer if needed. The outer bearing should go in fairly easily. Insert the outer bearing first.

8. Insert the 5mm diff pinion shaft into the outer bearing backwards, gear side out. The shaft will act as a guide while inserting the inner bearing.

9. Position the inner bearing over the 5mm pinion shaft and use the large mandrel (nut-driver) to apply an even force to the 12mm bearing. Use a block of soft wood to push against so the pinion gear is not damaged. Use a small soft hammer to knock the bearing into place.

10. Remove the diff pinion and install it correctly. Assemble the axle components.

Now will you have 12mm bearings pressed into the pinion bearing housings. Since the axle was heated to above the glass transition temperature of nylon while the holes for the bearings were stretched, the axle will be able to accommodate the new larger bearings without splitting or cracking. After doing this, there is absolutely no pinion bearing play in the axle.

I had to quote this big, long post and bring the mod back to the top because it works so damn good.

I didn't have the Craftsman sockets on hand so I went out into the garage and started putting the calipers to every socket I had that looked close. In the end, I used 3 different sockets that were 11.3 mm, 11.65 mm, and 11.9 mm in diameter to get the bearing holes to the right size. The hardest part was waiting for my 5x12 bearings to be delivered.

Everyone probably has the tools to do this mod laying around so get on it to remove ALL play in the pinion bearings.

[SSD]

The product was updated a while ago anyway.

[honchojoe]

Originally Posted by SSD

The product was updated a while ago anyway.

As in resolving the issues with the mold?

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[SSD]

Originally Posted by honchojoe

As in resolving the issues with the mold?

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Yes

[honchojoe]

So how do we know if we have a new version or an old one? I'd like to buy another set but I need to make sure it's the corrected version.

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[ljparton]

I remember reading that the VP Panhard mount will fit with some modification.

What exactly did you guys do to get it to fit?

[a69baldone]

Im with honchojoe.
Id like to get a set but wonder if rpp has the upgraded version

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[SSD]

Originally Posted by a69baldone

Im with honchojoe.
Id like to get a set but wonder if rpp has the upgraded version

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The updated housings have been shipping for months now so I very much doubt any dealer has any older ones left.

[fr8cture]

Of all places RPP would be the one to have the updated ones I would guess.

[DeviledEggs]

I know Im resurrecting a kinda old thread...

I just got a set of SSD wide splined tubes to "XR" my D60. Installed em in the housing and immediately ran into an issue. The splines are obviously way, too big for my VP wraith c-hubs. Ive never done the XR mod but I was under the assumption that these tubes would facilitate the use of Wraith/ XR chubs, knuckles and shafts. Please- What have I missed?

[altd896]

SSD use a different spline on their AR60 stuff, has half the splines of the Axial plastic, can see it in the pics of the tubes & the diamond axles.

I've got the VP scale C-hubs on a diamond AR60 & they fit just fine but in fairness to SSD, they say it'll fit Axial & their own C-hub, it doesn't say it'll fit anyone elses.

You'll have to work out which bit is too big. Does the OD of the tubes need to be turned down a little or the inside of the C-hub? or a bit of both.