"Southern Comfort" by CFM

[rockjeep44]

Phenomenal work! I just bought a Wraith from a member on this board so I was browsing the forum. It just turns out I also am an owner of a WOD Revolution chassis but mine is a 2 seater. I love your build, the attention to detail would make Adam proud I'm sure. At some point I would love to get a scale 2 seat version of the Revolution Chassis and put all my Wraith parts into it.

My 1:1

[CarterFab]

Very cool man. I posted a link up on their FB page an he commented on it over there. Yours would be super easy to clone. They are even making that wheel now in a 2.2.


Clear Eyes, Full Hearts, Can't Lose

[CarterFab]

I made VP rotors work on TSS wheels without drilling the wheels. No I will not tell you how. It's my secret until someone else figures it out for them self. Hahahahaha(evil laugh)
Really wasn't that hard and only took a little over a minute a piece to do.


Clear Eyes, Full Hearts, Can't Lose

[zidaro]

amazing rig!!

[CarterFab]

Alright you suspension gurus, I've got a dilemma and need some help.
I don't have much experience with 3 link setups 1:1 or scale, and I'm getting a lot of axle movement side to side during cycle. From what I understand, the upper axle link needs to be more parallel with the lowers so as not to fight the pan hard. Right now the upper link is angled towards the center of the axle. The suspension is setup nearly identical to when it was on the Wraith chassis so that's why I'm a little lost here. I don't remember if I have front end pics posted, but I can get the rig put back together and get a pic if need be.
The pan hard is pretty close to same angle as the drag link.


Carter Fab & Machine: Hand Made Customs

[K.Hess]

with a panhard set up you will have some lateral movement (in a arc from). and with my limited experience with 3 link, it the geometry doesnt always work when taking a triangulated 4 link and removing a link. with a triangulated 4 link it uses all of the links agents each other to keep the axle square and centered under you rig. with you seeing your rig I would try and run you uper link closer to parallel to you "frame rails"

hope that makes sense and was helpful

[CarterFab]

Thinking something simple and mild like this. Be cool if I could have the brand name decals die cut out of the same stuff. Like the Interco bird, W.O.D. logo, Griffin, PSC, and the Carter Fab & Machine script logo and CFM logo. Any suggestions?



And the rear axle where it belongs



Carter Fab & Machine: Hand Made Customs

[84socal]

i say keep it simple and classy thing looks great amd u picked a great rig to copy Woodlee make art pieces as do u as far as the 3 link goes might have to move bot upper and lowers to get it to move like u want or switch back to a 4 link
we have been running a 3 link on the front of my bosses rig for quite some time
ill se if i can get a pic of it for u but heres a link of roughly what we were running

bout 4th page on instructions has the front axle link bracket locations
and the lowers go straight back
http://www.trail-gear.com/pdf/110149-1-k.pdf
hope it helps

[Soulo747]

The hydro ram looks sexy.

Between this build and norms liberty I'm in awe.

[CarterFab]

Originally Posted by Soulo747

The hydro ram looks sexy.

Between this build and norms liberty I'm in awe.

Thanks, that says a lot cuz I don't consider my stuff on par with his


Carter Fab & Machine: Hand Made Customs

[Dtempleton]

Absolutely incredible work & attention to detail!! What exactly do you use to make chassis & roll cages like at the beginning of this thread? is it just aluminum rod? if so what size & also what do u use to weld & bend it? not trying to steal any trade secrets, Im just new to this & trying to learn a little more about the process & what it takes to build something this bada$$

[Dtempleton]

Originally Posted by CarterFab

Alright you suspension gurus, I've got a dilemma and need some help.
I don't have much experience with 3 link setups 1:1 or scale, and I'm getting a lot of axle movement side to side during cycle. From what I understand, the upper axle link needs to be more parallel with the lowers so as not to fight the pan hard. Right now the upper link is angled towards the center of the axle. The suspension is setup nearly identical to when it was on the Wraith chassis so that's why I'm a little lost here. I don't remember if I have front end pics posted, but I can get the rig put back together and get a pic if need be.
The pan hard is pretty close to same angle as the drag link.


Carter Fab & Machine: Hand Made Customs

Have you tried using the 3 link calculator off pirate4x4.com it works great when designing a 1:1, & i realize it is for 1:1 but if you did the math right you could use it for scale & get everything where it needs to be with some playing around

[CarterFab]

Got my new battery in, got the panhard axle bracket and frame brackets made, and got VP lockers on the way.




Clear Eyes, Full Hearts, Can't Lose

[CarterFab]

Update time!!
Finally had an extra hour today to run out to my shop and do some much needed welding.

Added the last bar to the engine cage.


Got the pan hard axle and frame mounts on.



Bout where ride height will be


Full bump, clears everywhere and during suspension cycle, and no more side to side swing.



Servo arm came in, so now to get that back readjusted when the lockers show up, then I think I'm ready to tear down and start paint and final detail/assembly.



Clear Eyes, Full Hearts, Can't Lose

[doublej]

Looking good mate!

[jpomenich]

thats amazing.i like the toyota body looks good

[CarterFab]

Originally Posted by Dtempleton

Absolutely incredible work & attention to detail!! What exactly do you use to make chassis & roll cages like at the beginning of this thread? is it just aluminum rod? if so what size & also what do u use to weld & bend it? not trying to steal any trade secrets, Im just new to this & trying to learn a little more about the process & what it takes to build something this bada$$

I use solid steel rod on the chassis cages like pictured in the beginning of this thread when I was modifying the original chassis. For these, the size is 7mm.
This new chassis was built out of the Dinky RC garage and uses a mixture of 3/16 and 1/8 solid rod. I MIG weld all my stuff, and it's all bent by hand. The only bender I use is a cheap one for brake line you buy from the auto parts stores. Just for the 90* bends for halos and such.
Sorry I didn't catch this question earlier.


Clear Eyes, Full Hearts, Can't Lose

[Bulldog]

The suspension setup looks a lot better. Mount your servo and see how it all works!

[CarterFab]

Yeah!!

[chicklet]

drool^^^^