Go fast wraith suspension - Turned build thread

[maslin]

Started this thread looking for shock advise, so why make it a build thread as well.

Bought a PS wraith. Way to high, way too ugly.


Cut the top off, flipped the rear shock mount, moved the front shocks back.


Stock motor is garbage, threw a 21t Titan 550 in, much better. Also dropped in a Savox 1230SG with a castle BEC and built some steering links out of piano wire.


Rock hard RTR tires couldn't keep up, picked up some RBIIs and Pitbull Dos Piezas foams. Made lower links from Traxxas push rods, swapped all the rod ends for steel.


Foams didn't fill the tire properly, and wheel screws were starting to strip. Time for CI DD foams and some Hitmans. Beautiful combo. Also threw on some Slash Powerstrokes and made some brackets to raise the rear upper mount a bit.



Plastic bumper was flexy, so I copied it out of steel. Takes a beating and looks even better now that the paint is scratched.


Beat on it like that for a while, interior broke apart and came out the windshield on a hard landing. Trying to track down an Appache insert, but they seem to be nonexistent. Installed some MIPs, lasted 5 minutes or so and bent the lower trans gear.

Ordered a bunch of RRP trans parts and put everything back together, all good now. Also threw in some Axial universals and Vanquish scale chubs and knuckles. Receiver died, picked up the FlySky version for $8.

Got bored of the 550 brushed motor, and picked up a brushless 4550kv system for cheap. Geared at 87/18 it was pulling wheelys and going 25mph. Dropped in some lower gears, 64/11 32p, tops out around 20mph and still pulls wheelys

Spent a lot of time crawling and a lot of time at the dirt jump park. Came down off a double hard and bent a rear axle shaft. New shafts, new bearings, good to go again. Broke the roof bars a few times, lots of super glue and electrical tape and shes holding up fine.

Then I started this thread. Dropped the rear shock oil to 20wt, blew around the back lot for 3 laps, and the front diff came apart.

So now she sits, waiting for a front spool to show up. The slop in the lockers never bothered me, and the rear still looks good. The stock locker isn't up to the task in the front, so some from lockuprc or hot racing will be out to the test.

The body is hammered. Cracked, bent, broken and broken some more. Looking for something to replace it, but not feeling inspired.

Current condition. Desperately needing a diff before this long weekend.




Looking for a little shock tuning help. Above 15mph or so, the back end gets a little light, bounces on big hits instead of taking it in. The front handles things perfectly.

Basic set up:

PS Wraith, cut to a fastback
Battery, receiver and BEC up front, ESC just behind the tranny
4550kv brushless geared 11/64 on 3200 3s hardpacks
Slash Powerstrokes F/R, 80mm front, 100mm rear.
Rear upper mounts raised 10mm, bottoms of all shocks mounted outboard of brackets
1 step softer on all 8 springs, from proline tuning kit
30wt oil all around
RRP tranny gears and MIPs
Pitbull RBIIs with CI Double Deuces Medium all around, on RC4WD hitmans, tires vented at 4 spots


The rear truss hits the floor just before full compression, but I don't think that is the problem. I can go one step softer on the secondary spring. I'm new to the go fast stuff, no previous experience in short course or anything. The rear end in significantly lighter than the front.


So what's the way to go? Softer secondary spring, lighter oil, more vents, softer foams, move some weight around? What says the power of the RCC?

Proline spring tuning chart, currently at Blue/Green front and rear.
http://prolineracing.com/images/howt...SpringRate.pdf

[tapped-out]

Try 10wt oil and softer spring somting like axial black or losi grey
I'm running axial XR10 shocks 10wt oil losi grey springs up front axial black springs in rear.
Seem to handle good.
FYI I'm also new to the U4 set ups.
Foams I'm running old school CI DD foams firm med inners otters soft front/med rear.

@ the U4 race sat I heard few guys say soft foams is the way to go, others say firm CI CC 1 stage foam is the good set up.
I'm happy with my set up.
If your foam is to soft I think you'll flip over more in corners also @ full power might ride on the rim.

[maslin]

LHS only has down to 20wt in stock

Dropped the rear to 20wt, same springs. World of difference. Lasted a whole 45 seconds or so, then the truck couldn't drive in a straight line. Front diff is roasted, time for a spool.

Handled much better over bumps though.

[maslin]

Appache interior came off backorder at RPP. Got one on the way.

[evan03]

Happy with how the new foams fill your rb2s

[maslin]

Originally Posted by evan03

Happy with how the new foams fill your rb2s

Yes, they actually fill the tire. Rounded out the tread and support the sidewall. Those pitbulls foams are... cheesy. 3 rings of soft, softer and even softer. I might go one step stiffer in the rear now, but med/med works really well.

If I were looking at some more crawler specific, I would want a little taller and narrower outer foam. As I use it thought, the shorter wider stance works.

[evan03]

Sweet.

[maslin]

Got the Appache interior, Trimmed the front to notch around the lower windshield bar and zip tied the rear.



Then I picked up one of these.



Only problem was, the body is about 3" long and a whole lot too wide. Remove stickers and start cutting



Second side is much easier.



Cut the hood down




The roof is a little short, but will do. Much better than a boring old jeep







Time to go scratch it up a bit.

[corkysk8]

I got this setup from another thread, just forgot who's. 3 hole pistons in front shocks and dual rate pistons in rear. I run 30wgt oil. Rear is set up for fast compression and slower rebound.

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2

[mccollom405]

I really like your own approach to making this rig a style of your own but still be U4 themed.

[maslin]

Originally Posted by corkysk8

I got this setup from another thread, just forgot who's. 3 hole pistons in front shocks and dual rate pistons in rear. I run 30wgt oil. Rear is set up for fast compression and slower rebound.

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2

I can't find any other pistons specifically for these shocks. If some other pistons work, I would love to know which ones.

[darkstar]

Got any tips on installing the HPi interior? I got the same one from RPP, haven't go to looking at installing it yet.

[maslin]

Originally Posted by darkstar

Got any tips on installing the HPi interior? I got the same one from RPP, haven't go to looking at installing it yet.

I just cut down the front until it was close to the right length, then cut a notch at the left and right, and one in the middle to hook onto the lower windshield bar. put two holes at the rear edge, below each driver, and a small zip tie to the rear interior bar to hold it up.

Kind of hard to explain, but it's pretty obvious once you have it in there.

[corkysk8]

Originally Posted by maslin

I can't find any other pistons specifically for these shocks. If some other pistons work, I would love to know which ones.

Sorry, I did not see the Pro-Lines. I run STRC alum caps and bodies w/ Wraith internals. The slow rebound helps keep the back from bouncing up while moving faster.

[darkstar]

Originally Posted by maslin

I just cut down the front until it was close to the right length, then cut a notch at the left and right, and one in the middle to hook onto the lower windshield bar. put two holes at the rear edge, below each driver, and a small zip tie to the rear interior bar to hold it up.



Kind of hard to explain, but it's pretty obvious once you have it in there.

Thanks for the info. I'm sure it will be pretty straight forward like you say, once I get to that point.

[maslin]

Originally Posted by darkstar

Thanks for the info. I'm sure it will be pretty straight forward like you say, once I get to that point.

The width of the interior is almost perfect, but the cage is narrower at the front and the back. You have to take the roof bars out and drop the panel in at an angle. I did all the fitting with the helmets off, then screwed them on for the final install.

[maslin]

Stripped a double clamp servo horn, blew the front ring gear and wore a hole through the front diff housing at lunch.

HD gear set ordered, servo horn picked up and not worrying about the housing for now. The servo horn was loose on the servo splines and clamped tight to the center bolt. I will drill out the center hole to not contact the bolt before the splines are clamped properly.

[the DMG]

these will fix that problem !!
Wraith/RidgeCrest Axle Skids

[Tgates]

Maybe just put some epoxy or shoe goo on the housing to keep dirt out

[maslin]

My old servo horn was a china GH double clamp copy. The metal was noticeably soft, and with the clamp bolts loose the horn would slide on and off the splines easily. The new part in the gold axial horn. With the clamp screws completely out I couldn't even press it on to the splines. Much better. I'm confident this one will last a while.