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Old 01-25-2014, 01:38 PM   #1
Quarry Creeper
 
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Default 10 year Tribute Build

This build is a tribute to the Founders, True Machine Artists, and Visionaries who have inspired and amazed me for years. I've been into Rc's for years, but once the AX10 kit came out and I found this site, I was hooked on crawling. I've been a long time member of the site and have read virtually every thread, whether it was my interests or not. I've been to the bowels of the site and back. I may be a little late to the XR party, but I'm just fashionably late.
DISCLAMER,, I bought this as a roller and am going to redo it with my own twist on it.
Here's what I'm starting with;

Chaotic Crawlers CF Switch.
Modded XR10 axles.
Chaotic Ti links.
VP wheels.
Rovers.
Dual Micro Sidewinders.
Cc bec.
Thanks to ROLANDROCKSHOP for the above ^^^


I also picked up a Futaba 4pl that came with a stock rx and a de-cased rx as a nice surprise. Thanks to Joshes4x4toys for that.
More to come including some 45turns and a few odds and ends as I decide what changes I want to make.

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Old 01-26-2014, 11:06 PM   #2
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Well, I have a roller. Little disappointed because it seems there's not much to improve on. There's always something, but this thing is pretty much already done. Waiting on motors and batteries now. I've still got to mount electronics, but it's all small, so that should be fairly straight forward. I need to attach the weights yet also. One issue I did find is the Rowdy battery mount doesn't attach to the Hot Racing trans case. I'm gonna take it apart and see if I can drill and tap a hole in the case. I could use a spacer to span the tab on the RR mount and the case. If I don't have a good spot to drill/tap, I may try to tack a nut to the case. That's where this exciting build stands now. It's really not that exciting. I can buy this or that part from this or that brand, but that's about it. I know I can go lighter on some stuff, but I think it's light enough for me. My old AX was 6lbs, so half of my issue is going to be learning how to drive a moa and getting used to a 2lb lighter rig. Name:  uploadfromtaptalk1390799250071.jpg
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Sorry about the sideways pics. Stupid tablet.

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Old 01-27-2014, 05:42 AM   #3
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Default Re: 10 year Tribute Build

Hey Jolly,
never too late bro. lookin good and you can always improve and make it your own. The game always changes, new parts, mods are released all the time. Not to mention true crawling ability always out ways the mods. Im subscribed and cant wait to see where you go with this one.

ORK
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Old 01-27-2014, 06:43 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OFFROADRCKOREA View Post
Hey Jolly,
never too late bro. lookin good and you can always improve and make it your own. The game always changes, new parts, mods are released all the time. Not to mention true crawling ability always out ways the mods. Im subscribed and cant wait to see where you go with this one.

ORK
Thanks for the words of encouragement. I'll feel better about it after I spend some time behind the wheel. As it is, I feel like I'm just borrowing it. I like to tinker, so I'm sure once it's under its own power, I'll find a tweak here and there. I'm definitely gonna order some new skins. I've got a theme in mind that I've not seen before.

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Old 01-27-2014, 10:55 PM   #5
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Default Re: 10 year Tribute Build

Exited to see where this build goes got an awesome start keep up the good work
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Old 01-28-2014, 11:43 PM   #6
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Thanks cliff1119. I've been doing some studying my battery mount issue. While looking at it today, I noticed I have a front gear problem. When it rolls forward, it's smooth. When I roll it backwards it binds. This gives me an opportunity to get inside of case and see if I have room to do my Rowdy mount mod on the HR case. I have a new set of rc4wd gears that came with the rig, so I'm covered there. I may do some research and maybe track down a VP replacement for the case. My battery mount issue would be cured then. Another mount option may be available from a vendor here that has a CF version.
Still waiting on batteries and motors. Realized today that I should prolly invest in a Castle link to check sidewinder settings and servo voltage. Gotta do some more research on the link. Not sure if I need the field-card or need one for a specific esc or if the link system is universal.

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Old 01-28-2014, 11:53 PM   #7
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If you can't track down a VP tranny housing, check out Rc4wd for a "big bearing mod kit" or something like that..

Ill get you a pic of the CF battery mount we talked about.

A castle link is universal. The castle link field card is a good option. It gives you instant feed back on all settings without a computer and is a castle link when you hook it up to a computer. Just get the car one and not the plane one. (if a field card is the way you go)
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Old 01-29-2014, 12:15 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by winnerone23 View Post
If you can't track down a VP tranny housing, check out Rc4wd for a "big bearing mod kit" or something like that..

Ill get you a pic of the CF battery mount we talked about.

A castle link is universal. The castle link field card is a good option. It gives you instant feed back on all settings without a computer and is a castle link when you hook it up to a computer. Just get the car one and not the plane one. (if a field card is the way you go)
Kool. Thanks for the tips. I think I have a bushing, is the bearing kit a better alternative? Seems like I read somewhere that the bushing was a good thing.
Wonder if there's a way to use the link on my tablet. That would be slick, field card and a computer all in one.
Yeah, I'm excited to see the battery mount. Whenever you get a chance will be fine. Thanks again.

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Old 02-01-2014, 05:25 PM   #9
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Finally have all the bits and pieces I need. Time to start jamming electronics in and bolt up motors. Electronics aren't the breeze I thought they would be. They're small, but the compartment is a tick smaller. Got it all wedged in. Ugly, but it's gonna work for now. Kinda winged it on gear mesh. Tried the paper method, but everything so tight, I'm not sure. It may be a little too tight, but I'm hoping it sounds smooth when I fire it up. One end done. If anybody sees anything I'm doing wrong, please feel free to let me know.

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Old 02-01-2014, 06:09 PM   #10
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Front motor in and axle mounted up. Having trouble with my servo. It's too deep and hitting shock. Gonna use some spacers to bring it forward. (Don't laugh at my Solar servo, it's all I got). Hunt for new servo begins tonight. Spacers made from scrap. Rhymes with crap and looks like it too.

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Old 02-02-2014, 06:44 PM   #11
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New issue. Have everything hooked up and it's not working right. My esc 's are going crazy beeping and flashing different colors. I have a different radio, so my settings are all messed up. Tried to calibrate my esc's, but I don't have power switches (They cut and spliced together), so all I can do is plug battery in, which doesn't seem to go into programing mode. I have Castle Link in mail on its way here. I'm wondering if I will even be able use it, because I have my red wires cut and have bec hooked up. In the pic, the front (on right) is steady yellow and only turns real slow in reverse. The rear esc is steady green and does nothing. I've done something way wrong, because I had more than this last night and I'm dizzy from reading.

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Old 02-03-2014, 12:26 PM   #12
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Default Re: 10 year Tribute Build

Did you try calibrating them one at a time? Unplug each esc from the rx and calibrate one at a time if you haven't done so.
Set all or tx settings to 100% first.. hold trigger on tx and plug battery in. Wait for beeps and follow normal calibration.

Looks like ur electronics need a good smash job.. other then that, I don't see anything wrong with how the wiring is done/configured.

Never cut wires from rx plug! Carefully pull back the tab and slide the pin out.. (for future reference)
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Old 02-03-2014, 03:18 PM   #13
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Thanks. Just picked up mail and Castle Link is here. Took tape off red esc wires and pins are there! Wish me luck. I'm hoping I don't have any bad esc's.

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Old 02-03-2014, 10:50 PM   #14
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Ok, got it running somewhat. After talking to rolandrockshop and Castle Creations it's alive. I'm quite sure trying to talk me through the electronics of this thing is dizzying in itself. (Thanks for the help guys. Didn't expect much help from Castle since my esc's and bec are used and modified, but Dan was kool). I have some slight adjustments to make. HOLY WHEELSPIN, I think the tires were ballooning in forward! I don't even have 3s in my slashes, but may want to now. Reverse, on the other hand is barely turning. I keep going back to the 4pl settings and can't see what's out of adjustment. I can tell just in my living room (darn ice and snow), that I'm gonna have to dial out some punch. I'm used to a slow crawl and using grip to overcome obstacles. Low and slow, not blast and bounce. Back to my issue, in reverse, my front motor light doesn't glow and my esc blinks green. The rear esc/motor both glow steady green. Was told today that blinking under throttle means esc is not getting full command signal from radio. Gotta be a transmitter setting. The throttle level on screen shows full bars when I fully pull throttle and when I fully engage reverse. I gotta be close. At least I saw it move. 4pl experts out there? If so, please don't ask me to search. I have. I have searched. I even went so far, as to search some more. Lol. On a positive note, I have a Custom Fiber battery mount ordered and will probably get a set of his motor guards when back in stock. They may be too high-quality for my Entegy motors, but should keep them going for a few extra miles. No to mention carbon is my kind of bling! If I'm ever in a farming/equipment accident that mauls my junk, I'm going with white Carbon Fiber as a replacement!

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Old 02-04-2014, 01:55 PM   #15
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Still only a crawl in reverse. Everything else good. Anybody??

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Old 02-04-2014, 03:14 PM   #16
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Default Re: 10 year Tribute Build

Futaba radio needs to be set to REV on the throttle settings.
Make sure firmware on esc is not a beta.
Change the firmware regardless. If it's on the one you want, change to something else then back again.
The older firmwares seems to give people fewer problems.

Try calibrating the rear esc in ch2 then moving it to ch4.

My 4pl was nib and I had to do a factory reset on it before the dual esc would work right.

If it doesn't want to go through the calibration sequence try changing the motor direction in the castle link. Make sure your doing the sequence right.

Looking at the last pick it looks like your front lowers are upside down or something. Might be the pic and my old eyes but it looks like the front of the skid is pushed up and the links are going down at an angle.

Last edited by SINister; 02-04-2014 at 03:21 PM.
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Old 02-04-2014, 04:19 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SINister View Post
Futaba radio needs to be set to REV on the throttle settings.
Make sure firmware on esc is not a beta.
Change the firmware regardless. If it's on the one you want, change to something else then back again.
The older firmwares seems to give people fewer problems.

Try calibrating the rear esc in ch2 then moving it to ch4.

My 4pl was nib and I had to do a factory reset on it before the dual esc would work right.

If it doesn't want to go through the calibration sequence try changing the motor direction in the castle link. Make sure your doing the sequence right.

Looking at the last pick it looks like your front lowers are upside down or something. Might be the pic and my old eyes but it looks like the front of the skid is pushed up and the links are going down at an angle.
Thanks! I'd read about the firmware, but hadn't dug that deep. I hadn't thought of a reset on my radio. Will do both for sure. Not sure what firmware to use. Castle shows all as beta except for one and its back in 2008. Guess I'll just pick one and try. I forgot to mention as it is, I had to reverse front (ch2) motor wires. Hopefully, I can switch my bullets back without having to re-solder them. Here's a shot of how the front links and motor wires are now.

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Old 02-04-2014, 04:54 PM   #18
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Default Re: 10 year Tribute Build

The front lowers should flow into the skid like the rears and the skid should be angled down towards the front axle.

pics from cc website - Chaotic Switch 2.0 & Smash Links
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Old 02-04-2014, 05:12 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SINister View Post
The front lowers should flow into the skid like the rears and the skid should be angled down towards the front axle.

pics from cc website - Chaotic Switch 2.0 & Smash Links
Excellent. Thanks for letting me know. I haven't spent any time with the chassis yet. Been just trying to get it to "go" and "woah". Lol. Downloading Castle Link now. Gonna do some research on resetting my 4pl in a bit. Beautiful snowy day here.

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Old 02-04-2014, 06:27 PM   #20
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Got it! I was being lazy and using field card. Hooked up to computer and did it properly. Reverse was set to 50% . Changed my motor direction on front and put my wires back together. I'm used to nimh battery power on my old AX10. I may need to reduce power or a radio setting. It's too jumpy for what I'm used to. I got Slashes for jumping. Haha. Gonna do some studying on the radio now. Almost afraid to do a factory reset. As it is, it's working. My "new to me" motors sound like one has a bearing out. Not real thrilled with that. We're planning a trip to the mountains early summer. I'd hoped I'd spent what I needed on this project to have it ready. Wifey's not gonna like a day on our trip without a nice dinner. Bwahaha!

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