JC Auto Design - SCX10 Rear Upper Link Risers - Improved geometry

[dittohead]

I just recieved my truss and link risers and got them installed tonite. The truck i put this stuff on has MIPs and a custom tube chassis based off a scx chassis turned around backwards. I found the clearance issue others had so i mounted the upper links to the outside of the risers. I got lucky because i run bent upper links so they clear. I also had to clearance one of the risers to clear the motor, but my truck isnt stock so i doubt others will have that issue. All was well until i clearanced the riser and its partially hollow! When i installed the other riser it cracked. They are WAY flexy also. Ive come up with a solution involving an alu plate on the outside of the frame that should stiffen up everything. Overall i thought the fitment to the skid/chassis was good and the improved geometry is totally worth any install issues and its awesome that Jens is standing by his products and making the nessesary adjustments.

[monkeyracer]

Sounds like you got some of the above mentioned defective pieces. The correct pieces should not have any noticeable flex, and although they are supposed to be partially hollow (see below), the defective pieces (as shown above) have some infill completely missing.

So, I just want to make sure everyone knows how the 3D printer makes these parts:

The printer software takes the shape of the part, and creates a shell, and then fills that shell with a honeycomb pattern. The software allows me to change how thick the shell is (how many layers), and how full the honeycomb is (by percentage). I can print anywhere from 0% - 100% fill. The higher percentage infill means more plastic used per print, and longer print times, but theoretically stronger. In my testing though, once the settings get above about 75% infill, it usually is such a tight honeycomb that it's not much different than 100%. This is basically the percentage of plastic-to-air inside the part.
For the defective prints, the software decided to just ignore part of the inside, and didn't print ANY infill in that portion of the part.

For any new parts, I am printing with the following settings:
0.15mm Layer Height
50% Infill
2 Shells

With these settings the part has enough support material inside to still be strong, yet save plastic and print time (reducing cost) and be functional.
These won't be as strong as aluminum, that's for sure, but they are strong enough (except for those with defective infill) and should hold up to some pretty good abuse.

Also, as mentioned before, the current production run of V2 RULRs do not have tapped holes, instead, you will need to use locknuts to secure the bolts. For those of you getting replacements, you will see the difference from the old ones to the new ones.

[dittohead]

The risers I received had tapped holes so I assume they were the earlier version? Im hoping the aluminum plate on the outside of the chassis picking up 3 holes will add a lot of stiffness to the risers. Im not gonna lie, I beat the shit out of my trucks. I take risks running them where/how I do and therefore the trucks take a lot of big tumbles/crashes. Couple pics of my non standard install

[JeepinDoug]

Originally Posted by 6sharky9

Try grinding a little on both sides of the eyelet..That should get you off the driveshaft.

They look like version 2s as the link mount is off set,,but don't know if they are the Hollow versions or not...youll find out I guess..lol

They were definitely hollow and lasted less than 1 minute.
Oh well.

[monkeyracer]

Keep in mind these are supposed to be partially hollow, but from that pic, I'd say you got one of the bad batch. You'll be getting a set of replacements very soon.
Also, didn't get a chance to get to the Post office before work today, so any replacements are going to be sent out on Thursday. You guys should get a shipping notice from Paypal with the new tracking info very soon.

These are supposed to be strong enough for most set-ups, but I am thinking High-Horsepower, rough and tumble rigs are going to need something stronger. I am considering pricing out aluminum, but I fear it may be cost-prohibitive. Just waiting on the quote reply.

[muddywaters]

I'll be on a look out for these if you come out with aluminum risers Jens.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[hatefulboy]

Ok I've looked over the whole thread, seen some clearing the MIP shafts, and VP links with revo ends. Which version do I order if I have MIP shafts?

[monkeyracer]

Originally Posted by hatefulboy

Ok I've looked over the whole thread, seen some clearing the MIP shafts, and VP links with revo ends. Which version do I order if I have MIP shafts?

There is currently only the V2 available, and as posted above, it is a tight fit, but should work with MIPs.

[hatefulboy]

Order placed.

[monkeyracer]

Originally Posted by hatefulboy

Order placed.

Thanks!
I will get it out tomorrow.

[muddywaters]

Thanks Jens got my confirmation for the V2s...

[badhoopty]

great idea, fwiw id be all over these if they were alloy.

[monkeyracer]

Originally Posted by badhoopty

great idea, fwiw id be all over these if they were alloy.

First quote back had these at *cost* of $30/pr for aluminum... so retail price would have to be a little higher than that. That's higher than I think most people would pay for something like this.
I'm looking into design revisions and other options in the meantime. The plastic version (when not plagued by a software glitch) should be strong enough for most set-ups, and really the aluminum version would be the more hardcore version.

[Johnnysplits]

Order placed. How thick are these pieces? Could you have them made in the same thickness out of quasifiber?

[stevem50]

noticed my link johnny? these make a world of difference

[monkeyracer]

Originally Posted by Johnnysplits

Order placed. How thick are these pieces? Could you have them made in the same thickness out of quasifiber?

I've never heard of quasifiber before, and a quick search shows that it is pretty much just Carbon Fiber?
Some of the geometries in these are much easier to make with 3D printing, and from the quotes I am getting back from machine shops I would have to re-think the whole design to suit that manufacturing capability.

Originally Posted by stevem50

noticed my link johnny? these make a world of difference

These do make a good difference in the performance, but I'd love to see some real-world testing done to show the capabilities. Anyone have video of before and after to show this off? I was working on a video myself, but the camera I am using was starting to throw a tantrum, and didn't record the video. If no one else does, I will probably have something by the end of the week to show the difference these make.

[Johnnysplits]

Originally Posted by monkeyracer

I've never heard of quasifiber before, and a quick search shows that it is pretty much just Carbon Fiber?

Not sure where you looked, but quasifiber is double the strength of standard CF. Check it out...Carbon Fiber Sheets

[monkeyracer]

Originally Posted by Johnnysplits

Not sure where you looked, but quasifiber is double the strength of standard CF. Check it out...Carbon Fiber Sheets

I just googled quasifiber, but I've seen dragonplate carbon fiber before, just never heard it called quasifiber. It makes sense this alternating orientation of the fibers would strengthen the piece.
This design doesn't play well with 2D shapes, since the link needs to be brought up above and outward to clear driveshafts, but that's not to say it isn't a possibility I would consider.

So far, I have not had any reports of breakage from the revised parts, and I think they are likely to hold up to some good abuse.

[CBR74]

The carbon fiber is no different, quasi-isotropic refers to the method it is layed out. (45 and 90 degrees versus just 90 degrees)

[JeepinDoug]

Got my version 2s in the mail today.
I'm sorry to say this but it broke in my hands.
No need to send more or refund, just chalk it up to prototyping experience.