JC Auto Design - SCX10 Rear Upper Link Risers - Improved geometry

[monkeyracer]

Originally Posted by JeepinDoug

Got my version 2s in the mail today.
I'm sorry to say this but it broke in my hands.
No need to send more or refund, just chalk it up to prototyping experience.

I just grabbed a set from the same batch as the ones those came from and really tried to get them to break like that. Didn't happen. Not sure how they broke in your hands, but I couldn't get them to do that. I even grabbed a couple hex drivers to get better leverage and still couldn't get them to break.

Since this is the first of the V2's to show breakage, is there anyone else having any issues with them?

I'll post a video soon to show just how much these can take before they have any issues.


Also, to follow up with aluminum or delrin versions, I'd be looking at a price somewhere closer to $40 per pair if I had 50 pairs made. Still looking into other machine shops though...

[6sharky9]

[QUOTE=monkeyracer
These do make a good difference in the performance, but I'd love to see some real-world testing done to show the capabilities. Anyone have video of before and after to show this off? I was working on a video myself, but the camera I am using was starting to throw a tantrum, and didn't record the video. If no one else does, I will probably have something by the end of the week to show the difference these make.[/QUOTE]

A simple board placed up against a wall with an incline enough to get the front to lift under power vs with the brackets installed..It should show how it keeps the front planted more firmly as you get less rear squat and keep more weight/ traction to the front tires

I know the ones I made for my honcho awhile back (from carbon fiber) has definitely helped with climbing steeper inclines and not flipping over near as much..Im sure yours do the exact same thing.

Its going to be a great product when you get it settled in...will be worth every penny for the performance gains one will get.
Ive seen people spend a lot more for a lot less in a product.

[JeepinDoug]

The side that broke for me was simply by hand, no steroids.
The other side I can not break. I didn't try to lever a break on it.
The honeycomb looks very close to the edge on the one that broke, about .5mm of perimeter.
Really shop around some machine prices. There are several guys here who can do it for a good price. Ask around in the Vendor's Hideout.

[monkeyracer]

Originally Posted by JeepinDoug

The side that broke for me was simply by hand, no steroids.
The other side I can not break. I didn't try to lever a break on it.
The honeycomb looks very close to the edge on the one that broke, about .5mm of perimeter.
Really shop around some machine prices. There are several guys here who can do it for a good price. Ask around in the Vendor's Hideout.

Interesting... i have no problem sending another set if you are willing to give it one more shot.

The shell on these should only be about .4mm thick, and I can go in increments of .2mm, but I haven't noticed a significant difference past two shells.

I'll post something in the VH soon about it to see who would be willing to quote that out.

[muddywaters]

Jens got my replacement V2s and these look solid, much appreciated. I'll be going to a gtg this weekend to try them out. I hope it will hold up to some Pro4HD 3500kv power. Not that I'm going to be gunning it but give it a punch of power or 2 to crawl over some rocks when the power is needed. Also if you decide to go aluminum put me on waiting list for set. Thanks muddy


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[JeepinDoug]

Originally Posted by monkeyracer

Interesting... i have no problem sending another set if you are willing to give it one more shot.

The shell on these should only be about .4mm thick, and I can go in increments of .2mm, but I haven't noticed a significant difference past two shells.

I'll post something in the VH soon about it to see who would be willing to quote that out.

I'm good thanks, but I will be watching this for aluminum revisions.

[Szczerba]

Ordered up a full kit for everything you offer for the SCX. Going to try and paint them as well.

[666]

More testing please. R&D goes a long way.....

[badhoopty]

Originally Posted by 666

More testing please. R&D goes a long way.....

i just dont see how making something with a fancy hi-tech cnc glue gun is at all dependable for suspension components.

but, as ive said before my ignorance to 3d printing is pretty deep...

[monkeyracer]

The company that makes the printer and the software for the printer have released version notes for their newest software version, and one note that pertains to what has happened with a lot of the failures here is:

5. Bug fix for some non-manifold objects slicing with missing layers or with filled in handles or holes

What this means is that the printer was deleting parts of the object when it printed. Imagine if you printed something in 2D on an inkjet printer, and it just decided to skip a couple lines, that is basically what the printer software did.

Originally Posted by 666

More testing please. R&D goes a long way.....

There has been quite a bit of R&D in the process, but with software issues like I posted above, there can still be problems I wasn't aware of.
That post would have been better in the thread about the trusses, but it helps to highlight the software issue and what can possibly result.

Originally Posted by badhoopty

i just dont see how making something with a fancy hi-tech cnc glue gun is at all dependable for suspension components.

but, as ive said before my ignorance to 3d printing is pretty deep...

There's no glue involved. It's basically a thermo-injection machine that injects the molten plastic layer by layer to build up the shape. Each layer melts into the previous one, making a bond with that layer.

I am looking into other materials that can be printed, but so far, ABS is the most reliable to print and reliable once printed. (Looking into Nylon and Polycarbonate, but I'm seeing mixed results from other people that have used it.)

[Draggermirage]

Originally Posted by monkeyracer

The company that makes the printer and the software for the printer have released version notes for their newest software version, and one note that pertains to what has happened with a lot of the failures here is:



What this means is that the printer was deleting parts of the object when it printed. Imagine if you printed something in 2D on an inkjet printer, and it just decided to skip a couple lines, that is basically what the printer software did.



There has been quite a bit of R&D in the process, but with software issues like I posted above, there can still be problems I wasn't aware of.
That post would have been better in the thread about the trusses, but it helps to highlight the software issue and what can possibly result.



There's no glue involved. It's basically a thermo-injection machine that injects the molten plastic layer by layer to build up the shape. Each layer melts into the previous one, making a bond with that layer.

I am looking into other materials that can be printed, but so far, ABS is the most reliable to print and reliable once printed. (Looking into Nylon and Polycarbonate, but I'm seeing mixed results from other people that have used it.)

I'm the guy who took that picture of the new, destroyed truss. Patrick was kind enough to post it for me.

*Disclaimer*
I haven't followed the different threads for your different products. This is the first I've poked my nose into any of these threads, but the general "feel" of your products isn't good with my and other locals' experience with them.

Originally I bought the v1 link risers. Those failed on me in under a foot of my chassis rolling. I have since gotten the v2 risers and haven't been able to test them yet. I will be making a brace to give them a better chance of surviving with my driving style as I simply don't trust the ABS to last long.

This 4-link truss didn't even survive install. The lower ear that backs the long, through casing screw cracked on me with minimal torque on it. Installed longer screws and a backing washer/nut. Fixed. Went to tighten the upper link screws and, with minimal torque again, completely split the mounts off of the truss.

Is it true that you omitted the internal honeycomb structure on the v2 risers? If so, you need to do the same to all the trusses unless you decide to ditch the printing for suspension applications (which I would) and machine some aluminum pieces (preferred).

I really like the general idea you have with these pieces and the design of them. It's just the material and manufacturing methods that aren't cutting it.

Marcus

[monkeyracer]

Originally Posted by Draggermirage

I'm the guy who took that picture of the new, destroyed truss. Patrick was kind enough to post it for me.

*Disclaimer*
I haven't followed the different threads for your different products. This is the first I've poked my nose into any of these threads, but the general "feel" of your products isn't good with my and other locals' experience with them.

Originally I bought the v1 link risers. Those failed on me in under a foot of my chassis rolling. I have since gotten the v2 risers and haven't been able to test them yet. I will be making a brace to give them a better chance of surviving with my driving style as I simply don't trust the ABS to last long.

This 4-link truss didn't even survive install. The lower ear that backs the long, through casing screw cracked on me with minimal torque on it. Installed longer screws and a backing washer/nut. Fixed. Went to tighten the upper link screws and, with minimal torque again, completely split the mounts off of the truss.

Is it true that you omitted the internal honeycomb structure on the v2 risers? If so, you need to do the same to all the trusses unless you decide to ditch the printing for suspension applications (which I would) and machine some aluminum pieces (preferred).

I really like the general idea you have with these pieces and the design of them. It's just the material and manufacturing methods that aren't cutting it.

Marcus

Thank you for the info on the breakage. I have had many successful installs with my parts, but only those with problems seem to be the ones posting. I've been hearing good results, but I'd love for those people to chime in and let everyone know they are not having any issues. These can only get better if I know what is AND isn't working.

As stated before, the software issue was the cause of pretty much any breakage. Yes, some suspension components would not be suited for 3D Printing, but the pieces I made available have gone through a lot of effort on design and there haven been many more revisions than what is shown here.

I hope that everyone sees that I am going to great lengths to resolve these issues to make sure your money is well spent. 3D printing is still a new technology to the RC world, so there are bound to be some hurdles, but I think the parts that I have available now, and those that are in testing to be released soon are also good to go. I've updated my printer software to prevent the missed layer/infill problem, and so far the things I have been printing are not having any troubles.

[mikro383]

First test run, carpet wheelie busted both sides version 2's




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[Duuuuuuuude]

Carpet wheelies are really, really hard on things. I've blown transmissions doing that...

[mikro383]

From a dead stop too no reversing

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[monkeyracer]

Originally Posted by mikro383

First test run, carpet wheelie busted both sides version 2's
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Looks like you have tapped threads, so you have an early V2. Send me a PM with your shipping info and I will send you out a current replacement...

Originally Posted by mikro383

From a dead stop too no reversing

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How often are you going to smash the gas from a dead stop on carpet?

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

Carpet wheelies are really, really hard on things. I've blown transmissions doing that...

Yes, agree, that's not the way to test things, and really you should never be going from dead stop to 100% throttle. It's all about finesse. The replacements should hold up to even that abuse though...

[mikro383]

Here's another pic if it helps PM sent


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[mammoth]

I received mine last week and 3 out if the 4 sets I got have broken so far. I will post a couple pics up shortly. 2 I broke in my hand and the other lasted 5 mins in the rig. great design just think they need to be done in aluminum.

[Postclanker]

I would be happy to buy the aluminum....
I think with all the replacement sets you've had to mail out, at some point you're going to have to see a loss here and no longer offer these...

Great idea, just make them in aluminum. I bet you'll be surprised at how many you sell.

[monkeyracer]

Originally Posted by mammoth

I received mine last week and 3 out if the 4 sets I got have broken so far. I will post a couple pics up shortly. 2 I broke in my hand and the other lasted 5 mins in the rig. great design just think they need to be done in aluminum.

Originally Posted by Postclanker

I would be happy to buy the aluminum....
I think with all the replacement sets you've had to mail out, at some point you're going to have to see a loss here and no longer offer these...

Great idea, just make them in aluminum. I bet you'll be surprised at how many you sell.

Just coming down to price. Lowest quotes I am getting back are about $45/pair, and that's just cost, I'd have to price them higher than that to make anything out of them. I'm still looking at refining the design and getting some more reasonable machining quotes.