Have tech questions? Will answer.

[mewalsh100]

I agree. Already running a PP 3500KV in my Wraith on 3S. Also running a PP 3300KV Stubby in my Truggy on 3S. Both are pretty darn sick! It's definitely the sweet spot in those two rigs. Call me crazy, but I was actually looking for even more oomph out of this build! It's the pure insanity of the power plants in the 1:1's that has me laughing maniacally. Spose I could always go 4S

So, would the PP 4500KV be complete overkill?

[durok]

EDITED: actually, some people have raced U4 with 3S on the 4500kv - it's pretty overbuilt, just watch the temps on everything...

The 4100kv Long-can "R" type is listed as taking 60,000 RPM. It will take 3S easily.

[mewalsh100]

Originally Posted by durok

EDITED: actually, some people have raced U4 with 3S on the 4500kv - it's pretty overbuilt, just watch the temps on everything...

The 4100kv Long-can "R" type is listed as taking 60,000 RPM. It will take 3S easily.

I may go the 4100kv durok. I know ordinarily, a standard Wraith won't allow it to fit, but with this tube chassis I think I have the real estate. I'm going to get some measurements and see.

EDIT: Just checked out HH website. Looks like the 4100kv LC is sold out right now. :(

[durok]

Heh-Heh.... I have one of those bad boys... Of course, I still haven't installed it in a build - not ready yet!

[mewalsh100]

@durok - can you get me the can length measurements on the 4100 when you have a chance?

[durok]

Originally Posted by mewalsh100

@durok - can you get me the can length measurements on the 4100 when you have a chance?

The aluminum housing is 60mm (matching what it says on the box... ) and the sensor wire input port stands about 1.5mm above the surface of the endcap. (Don't get confused by my sweet aluminum ruler from a German Mini-Blind mfg.):

[mewalsh100]

@durok - I don't suppose you would wanna part with that motor!????? You'd make a grown man-child very happy!

Just think of all the good karma it will bring you. That motor wants to be used. It NEEDS to be used!

[durok]

Originally Posted by mewalsh100

@durok - I don't suppose you would wanna part with that motor!????? You'd make a grown man-child very happy!

Just think of all the good karma it will bring you. That motor wants to be used. It NEEDS to be used!

How's this - in stock, ready to ship:

https://www.asiatees.com/display?Mis...d=148220&pid=1

JUMP on it! It's even less than direct from HH!

I'd send you mine if I knew beyond the shadow of a doubt that Holmes would get more in stock relatively soon - but there's no guarantees there...

And who knows when I'll get a wild hair and actually build my 2 Bomber-based rigs. Maybe this weekend?

(Hah!)

BTW - I've ordered from them before, a very reliable vendor. Free Shipping on that motor, too!

[JohnRobHolmes]

I did decide to do another run of them, but might be up to a month before the next batch arrivez

[durok]

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

I did decide to do another run of them, but might be up to a month before the next batch arrivez

That's good to hear...

Although I need to make use of my layoff-imposed free time to hurry up with my procrastinating self... and BUILD some sh*t!

Revolver going in my "Diesel" GMC Topkick Bomber, "R"-type going in my next-to-no Axial parts "Big-Block" Bomber.

[Jboucher]

Originally Posted by durok

That's good to hear...

Although I need to make use of my layoff-imposed free time to hurry up with my procrastinating self... and BUILD some sh*t!

Revolver going in my "Diesel" GMC Topkick Bomber, "R"-type going in my next-to-no Axial parts "Big-Block" Bomber.

At least you bought it!

I'm stuck at the "would it be too fast for me" step...
Without the 2-speed it can't be fun

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[durok]

Originally Posted by Jboucher

At least you bought it!

I'm stuck at the "would it be too fast for me" step...
Without the 2-speed it can't be fun

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

I'm going to use under-driven HD diff gears front AND rear to calm the 4100kv down a bit...

I'm not wanting to use a 2-speed in my brushless setups.

That's why one build gets the 1800kv Revolver - it's gonna be the crawler.

[mewalsh100]

Don’t really need 2 speed with a good brushless set up any how.

[mewalsh100]

My HH Puller Pro R 540-L is on its way! Thanks again for the link @durok!

I have a sneaking suspicion that this Rock Bouncer is going to be just bonkers with that power plant. Cue the broken parts!

[mudhog007]

ok I need help. I have a wraith running the holmes 540 stubby 3300 sensored motor off of the trailmaster ble pro, 3S lipo and I just installed the SSD high ratio trans, 32p 60t spur with a 10 tooth pinion, and underdrive gears in the axles, external BEC wired power direct to the steering servo, hitec. And now when under load or if the truck is at a stand still and I give it full throttle the motor will stutter and start and stop and the servo will wig out and will steer left and right. and now the motor will get warm with less than 30 seconds running as well as the esc and the wires going to the motor are also warm to the touch, not hot but something is not right. never before has the motor ever gotten even slightly warm. the pins on the sensor wire appear to be straight and good. any ideas on where I should start? thanks in advance. bad sensor wire? esc? motor?

[JohnRobHolmes]

Add 30% punch control. Just sounds like you are asking more from the batteries and they can’t quite deliver. The heat could be your new gearing, or just from the studdering.

[mudhog007]

Thanks for getting back to me. I had a different sensor cable in a box and just as a quick check before I left for work I threw it on and puttered in garage and it appeared the stutter went away but not the servo tweaking out. I will set the punch control tonight after work. would a bad sensor cable increase the temps on motor and esc?

[JohnRobHolmes]

It could.

[Hydrocarbon92]

If you had to remove the motor wires, make sure you didn't swap any. That will kill a sensored motor. If you remove the sensor wire and it works w/o getting hot, that might be the prob (if motor wasn't damaged). I have to ask though, why get a high-ratio gearbox with underdrive axle gears & fairly low spur/pinion?

[mudhog007]

Originally Posted by Hydrocarbon92

If you had to remove the motor wires, make sure you didn't swap any. That will kill a sensored motor. If you remove the sensor wire and it works w/o getting hot, that might be the prob (if motor wasn't damaged). I have to ask though, why get a high-ratio gearbox with underdrive axle gears & fairly low spur/pinion?

I blew up my old trans gears and the case at the same time so I needed all new stuff. the SSD was on sale and it included hardened gears and output and aluminum case so why not. I needed to replace the axle gears and bearings anyways so why not.

I did play with the punch control and no change. But I ran into multiple issues, my battery being low was one of them, DOH!!!!
I put punch control back to 0%
different sensor wire

I had my BEC for steering in the front, and wires running clear to the back, tapped into servo power and then clear back to the front. So I eliminated that, cut it back to as short as I could and tapped into servo wire right about the front of the skid plate. That was causing my servo to freak out under full throttle I think.

the other issue Im sure was the battery. its an older gens ace 3S 30C, I put a 2S 45C battery in and magically it runs great no stutter, no heat, but still a slight steering jerk a couple times.

Gonna try a different rx next.