Have tech questions? Will answer.

[samaruki]

Hay John I was wondering how interchangeable are servo gears from different manufacturers....i have your VH500V2 servo on my rr10 after taking 3 bad hits I finally stripped a gear...i think the one I stripped is fairly common one...i rotated it 180 for now.

Waiting for gear kit to be back in stock. Was wondering if that gear is the same in other servos.....any way i could get just that one gerr as to getting the whole set


Just wondering...anyway love your products 👍

[Voodoobrew]

They are not the same. The tooth counts differ which change the diameter. And since the shafts are fixed you can't adjust this distance.

There are however servos that are very cloche like 3brc' g13, the jk HH knockoffs or the Holmes v1 servos, but they are still too different to use. I believe all of those have a smaller centers shaft.

[samaruki]

Thanks kinda what I thought thanks

[revin9k]

Does anyone have a picture of how they wired their HH SHV500 wired in? I would like a reference pic before I start and accidentally mess it up

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[Voodoobrew]

The red and black wires go the the esc side of the main battery connection.

[BDR]

Any one know which side is positive on a puller 500?

Only has a black and silver post

[Jboucher]

Doesn't matter on brushed motors, if it doesn't spin the right way, flip the wires.

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[allanon1965]

I have a rig I have used a transfer case that is 2.25:1 driven directly off the motor shaft, I am using Yota axles that appear to also be a 2.25:1 ratio, I currently have a 27T brushed motor in it, is there a better solution for getting more torque out of it, it stalls fairly easy on small obstacles... I was thinking maybe going to a 45t HH torquemaster or a high turn crawlmaster maybe?

I might be able to slip a spur gear in the front mounted setup, but I have no experience with that so I am still looking into it

[JohnRobHolmes]

45t would be better than nothing, but more geardown would be the best solution.

[mewalsh100]

Hello John - very interested in trying out one of your Revolver series motors. I have never played with one and was hoping you could steer me in the right direction. Rig is a "Wraith". I'm running 43/13 ring and pinion in both the front and rear. 32P 56T Spur and 10T Pinion. I run the truck on 3S 35c packs. I use the rig for trailing and crawling. 1000kv, 1400kv, or 1800kv? Thanks!

[allanon1965]

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

45t would be better than nothing, but more geardown would be the best solution.

thanks John, I am trying to figure out how to do just that lol....

[fyrstormer]

Originally Posted by allanon1965

I have a rig I have used a transfer case that is 2.25:1 driven directly off the motor shaft, I am using Yota axles that appear to also be a 2.25:1 ratio, I currently have a 27T brushed motor in it, is there a better solution for getting more torque out of it, it stalls fairly easy on small obstacles... I was thinking maybe going to a 45t HH torquemaster or a high turn crawlmaster maybe?

I might be able to slip a spur gear in the front mounted setup, but I have no experience with that so I am still looking into it

Higher-turn motors don't generate more torque. They generate more torque per watt (which is to say they're more energy-efficient), but their power consumption, power output, absolute torque output are all lower. If you want more absolute torque, you either need higher voltage, a larger motor, or a low-turn motor and lots of geardown.

I dunno what vehicle you have, but if a 550 motor will fit, try the TorqueMaster 550 Pro series. I have one in my Wraith and it kicks ass. I also have two of them (with custom 11t armatures) in my short-course trucks.

[allanon1965]

Originally Posted by fyrstormer

Higher-turn motors don't generate more torque. They generate more torque per watt (which is to say they're more energy-efficient), but their power consumption, power output, absolute torque output are all lower. If you want more absolute torque, you either need higher voltage, a larger motor, or a low-turn motor and lots of geardown.

I dunno what vehicle you have, but if a 550 motor will fit, try the TorqueMaster 550 Pro series. I have one in my Wraith and it kicks ass. I also have two of them (with custom 11t armatures) in my short-course trucks.

I didnt choose this motor, it was in the rig when I bought it and it is abysmal when trying to crawl over anything decent.. I am thinking about the 550 trailmaster 45t..i think it will fit. this is a custom built rat rod on an old trail stomper chassis..with all the custom interior work, there is no room for a conventional trans setup...I wish there was, but it would mean destroying the interior which I really dont want to do..


now that being said, will the 550 45t motor have more balls than the 45t 540 motor? will the current 1060 esc on 3s handle the 550 45t?

I reckon I should ask which choice would be better, the 540 55t trail master or the 550 45t trail master?

[fyrstormer]

With a longer motor, you need fewer turns to get the same rotational speed. Measuring motor windings in "turns" is not a good way of doing it, because it's really the length of the wire that matters -- a shorter length of wire has less electrical resistance, and is also usually thicker-gauge, so more amperage can flow through and generate a stronger magnetic field. Holmes can tell you for certain what the equivalents are between their 540 and 550 size motors, but I think 21t 550 = 27t 540.

So anyway, a 45t 550 would actually be slower than a 45t 540, though the longer motor and larger magnets mean the 45t 550 might produce more absolute torque than the 45t 540, just at a lower max speed.

[allanon1965]

Originally Posted by fyrstormer

With a longer motor, you need fewer turns to get the same rotational speed. Measuring motor windings in "turns" is not a good way of doing it, because it's really the length of the wire that matters -- a shorter length of wire has less electrical resistance, and is also usually thicker-gauge, so more amperage can flow through and generate a stronger magnetic field. Holmes can tell you for certain what the equivalents are between their 540 and 550 size motors, but I think 21t 550 = 27t 540.

So anyway, a 45t 550 would actually be slower than a 45t 540, though the longer motor and larger magnets mean the 45t 550 might produce more absolute torque than the 45t 540, just at a lower max speed.

going by holmes motor chart on his website, I went with the 45t 550, we will see what happens lol

[durok]

Originally Posted by mewalsh100

Hello John - very interested in trying out one of your Revolver series motors. I have never played with one and was hoping you could steer me in the right direction. Rig is a "Wraith". I'm running 43/13 ring and pinion in both the front and rear. 32P 56T Spur and 10T Pinion. I run the truck on 3S 35c packs. I use the rig for trailing and crawling. 1000kv, 1400kv, or 1800kv? Thanks!

Just as an FYI - I run a 1800kv Revolver in my Bomber with stock 64/12t gearing, and stock diff gears- have run 4S without any issue - but on 3S it's perfectly fine as well, and have been sticking with the 3S packs lately because my current servo is a HH SHV500 powered directly from the main battery.

Climbs great, with enough torque to blip the throttle through whatever I come up against.

[Voodoobrew]

Originally Posted by allanon1965

I have a rig I have used a transfer case that is 2.25:1 driven directly off the motor shaft, I am using Yota axles that appear to also be a 2.25:1 ratio, I currently have a 27T brushed motor in it, is there a better solution for getting more torque out of it, it stalls fairly easy on small obstacles... I was thinking maybe going to a 45t HH torquemaster or a high turn crawlmaster maybe?

I might be able to slip a spur gear in the front mounted setup, but I have no experience with that so I am still looking into it

If your not running a pinion and spur no motor in the world will crawl with that 5:1 ratio you described. Personally I would scrap the transfer case and get one of the $40 wraith transmissions off ebay. There aren't that hard to mount in most rigs.

Rc4wd probably has a front motor mount kit that has a pinion and spur. Or bug the guy you bought it from, he probably has the mounts laying around some where.

[mewalsh100]

Originally Posted by durok

Just as an FYI - I run a 1800kv Revolver in my Bomber with stock 64/12t gearing, and stock diff gears- have run 4S without any issue - but on 3S it's perfectly fine as well, and have been sticking with the 3S packs lately because my current servo is a HH SHV500 powered directly from the main battery.

Climbs great, with enough torque to blip the throttle through whatever I come up against.

What’s weight on your Bomber durok?

[JohnRobHolmes]

Originally Posted by mewalsh100

Hello John - very interested in trying out one of your Revolver series motors. I have never played with one and was hoping you could steer me in the right direction. Rig is a "Wraith". I'm running 43/13 ring and pinion in both the front and rear. 32P 56T Spur and 10T Pinion. I run the truck on 3S 35c packs. I use the rig for trailing and crawling. 1000kv, 1400kv, or 1800kv? Thanks!

I would be between the 1800kv and 1400kv. If you currently run a 35t and like the speed, the 1400kv will be your equal choice.

Originally Posted by fyrstormer

Higher-turn motors don't generate more torque. They generate more torque per watt (which is to say they're more energy-efficient), but their power consumption, power output, absolute torque output are all lower. If you want more absolute torque, you either need higher voltage, a larger motor, or a low-turn motor and lots of geardown.

I dunno what vehicle you have, but if a 550 motor will fit, try the TorqueMaster 550 Pro series. I have one in my Wraith and it kicks ass. I also have two of them (with custom 11t armatures) in my short-course trucks.

larger motors can produce more torque, which is the simple way of describing why 550 motors produce more torque than 540. Your understanding seems spot on overall.

While higher motors don't technically produce more torque on specific voltages (i'm very happy to see this getting into peoples heads! ), the brush and copper losses of higher turn brushed motors are lower for equal torque output at the shaft. And since we can't easily increase the size of the brush, this does give slower motors a practical advantage when conditions are wrong. In short, if we are going to attempt to stall a motor out with improper gearing, it better be the slowest motor we can get away with.

examples:

Lets say we are running 3s on a 27t. The 27t on 3s is our sweet spot for torque in a normal rig with normal geardown, 40:1 for example. Very good selection. If we change to 20:1 geardown, we need twice the amperage for the same torque at the wheel. Heat is generated by the square of amperage, so halving the geardown creates four times the heating in the brush, motor coils, copper wiring, and phase side of the ESC. Since a 27t is already on the edge of performance, halving the gearing puts it into a situation that severely heats components and makes it feel "weaker". On the same token, twice the amp draw creates twice the voltage drop, which further weakens the 'feel" of the motor under load.


So now lets drop a 55t motor in the rig with the same 20:1 gearing. Half the motor speed, for practical arguments. Amps are cut in half to produce the same torque at the wheel. Motor heating WILL BE THE SAME because the coil wire is half the copper diameter and twice the length. 4x the coil resistance / 4x less amperage heating= unchanged result. Same load, same heat in the coils. This is why slower motors do not technically produce more torque. But, the brushes, copper wiring, and ESC see half the amps and thus four times less heat. There is also half the voltage drop. This is why slower motors "feel" like they produce more torque in a rig that doesn't have enough geardown. The brushes and other conductive components love to operate at half the amperage, and it shows up as an overall cooler running system that doesn't "fade" in torque as fast. With exception of the motor coils, all components simply run better with the slower motor because it can operate at a lower phase amp for equal torque output. For practical purposes, we can honestly say that the slower motor produces more torque in this situation. But in reality, it is the support components around the motor that allow for higher torque output, and not the active motor components.


Since there is no free lunch, we are giving up half the wheelspeed and half the power output possible as compared to the 27t system. Of course, the better solution would be to use the 27t system with the 40:1 geardown. It gives the key element of halved amp draw for equal torque at the wheel, it has the ability to produce nearly FOUR TIMES the torque at the wheel (ignoring brush saturation), and generally gives a more controlled throttle feel.

I could go on about this, but hopefully yall get the idea. Spinning a motor as fast as possible with proper geardown is always best (volt up, gear down!). But sometimes, we can mask a lack of geardown with simply using a slower and weaker motor that doesn't have the balls to overheat the system.

[MasteroFlego]

Wow, learned a lot from that, does this apply to brushless motors as well?

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