RCCrawler Forums

Mike Poulson · 02-17-2008, 03:37 PM

Time to shave the diff housings, I knock off everything but the 4 post to mount the diff to the struts. 3/16 burr works good here too, then a half round jewlers file to blend in all the curves. After the file I Scotch-Brite them and call it good. These should be properly textured with rock rash later on.

Mike Poulson · 02-17-2008, 03:41 PM

You can gain another 1/8" if you sand down the 4 mounting post flush with the diff housing. Make sure to get them even.

Mike Poulson · 02-17-2008, 03:45 PM

I take them apart and clean out the plastic and CA the 2 holes in the bottom half.

While the pinions are out you should file a flat spot on the shaft, only go 1/2 the thickness of the input shaft wall.

Mike Poulson · 02-17-2008, 03:49 PM

The Traxxas metal joints work great. It's better if you knock half the lip on the end off. Use 2 set screws and you will have no problems.

Mike Poulson · 02-17-2008, 03:59 PM

Here is how I do a battery tray.
I use the small piece of Aluminum as a template and make a longer one, then bend it so it lowers the battery just a bit more.
I get this Aluminum from Lowes.

run2jeepn · 02-17-2008, 04:21 PM

I used 90mm and got the Perfect 12.5in Wheelbase. Thanks for all this Tech... Upper links aren't mounted so ignore the pinion angles. Also these are not the Wheels and Tires I'll be running.

dieselfuel · 02-17-2008, 05:13 PM

now thats professional. i've always liked these things i'm just afraid my heavy trigger finder wouldn't work well with them.

Unimoger · 02-17-2008, 05:17 PM

This is a great tech thread for these axles Mike, just need to get my tuber done and I can run them. Great work as always.

666 · 02-17-2008, 08:55 PM

NIce job on this Mike, I have pretty much done all this from looking at your pics on 801rcc. Not as pretty though!

I need to get some updated pics of my setup for all to see and then need to start driving it regularly to wup the competition!!

Racer4Life · 02-17-2008, 09:03 PM

Nice write-up.

I so need to try a set of these. Off to raid the piggy bank.

666 · 02-17-2008, 09:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Poulson

I reinvested on some upgrades to the CVD bones on the next run, and will be testing this week.

Interested!!

Rckcrwlr · 02-18-2008, 05:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Racer4Life

Nice write-up.

I so need to try a set of these. Off to raid the piggy bank.

I second that one Tom...I got to your Piggyback before you...

LIKES2CRAWL · 02-18-2008, 09:53 AM

Looks good.....subscribe!

balang_479 · 02-18-2008, 11:25 AM

Nice clear work there, ive learnt some from this thread.. love the Poulsons.

Stormin2u · 02-18-2008, 11:59 AM

Mike, I love your axles you do such a wonderful job fabricating them. My question is the ring and pinion look to be nylon do you ever have to replace them? Thanks for the thread the GC 1 looks awesome with your axles.

Mike Poulson · 02-18-2008, 02:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stormin2u

Mike, I love your axles you do such a wonderful job fabricating them. My question is the ring and pinion look to be nylon do you ever have to replace them? Thanks for the thread the GC 1 looks awesome with your axles.

The plastic gears have held up good, good enough to break CVD bones.
Now with the new 5mm axle that may change but we all feel that this will be a great improvement over an already pretty good setup.

Thanks for all the nice comments, I really enjoy this stuff

Mike

mrpink · 02-18-2008, 04:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Poulson

Thanks for all the nice comments, I really enjoy this stuff

honestly it shows in your workmanship.

p!nK

FrankyRizzo · 02-18-2008, 05:32 PM

If you ever want to do one on a BlackJack let me know.

Great stuff!

mrpink · 02-18-2008, 06:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FrankyRizzo

If you ever want to do one on a BlackJack let me know.

Great stuff!

I have been kicking around that idea for a while now....

p!nK

Racer4Life · 02-18-2008, 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rckcrwlr

I second that one Tom...I got to your Piggyback before you...

Damn...I was wondering who snuck in the house last night.

Just stay out of my room.

02-17-2008, 03:37 PM	#21
Mike Poulson Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: SLC Posts: 382	Time to shave the diff housings, I knock off everything but the 4 post to mount the diff to the struts. 3/16 burr works good here too, then a half round jewlers file to blend in all the curves. After the file I Scotch-Brite them and call it good. These should be properly textured with rock rash later on. Attached Images

02-17-2008, 03:41 PM	#22
Mike Poulson Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: SLC Posts: 382	You can gain another 1/8" if you sand down the 4 mounting post flush with the diff housing. Make sure to get them even. Attached Images

02-17-2008, 03:45 PM	#23
Mike Poulson Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: SLC Posts: 382	I take them apart and clean out the plastic and CA the 2 holes in the bottom half. While the pinions are out you should file a flat spot on the shaft, only go 1/2 the thickness of the input shaft wall. Attached Images

02-17-2008, 03:49 PM	#24
Mike Poulson Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: SLC Posts: 382	The Traxxas metal joints work great. It's better if you knock half the lip on the end off. Use 2 set screws and you will have no problems. Attached Images

02-17-2008, 03:59 PM	#25
Mike Poulson Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: SLC Posts: 382	Here is how I do a battery tray. I use the small piece of Aluminum as a template and make a longer one, then bend it so it lowers the battery just a bit more. I get this Aluminum from Lowes. Attached Images

02-17-2008, 04:21 PM	#26
run2jeepn I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: USA Posts: 11,196	I used 90mm and got the Perfect 12.5in Wheelbase. Thanks for all this Tech... Upper links aren't mounted so ignore the pinion angles. Also these are not the Wheels and Tires I'll be running.

02-17-2008, 05:13 PM	#27
dieselfuel I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Henderson/Las Vegas, NV Posts: 5,032	now thats professional. i've always liked these things i'm just afraid my heavy trigger finder wouldn't work well with them.

02-17-2008, 05:17 PM	#28
Unimoger I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: G6'N Posts: 7,391	This is a great tech thread for these axles Mike, just need to get my tuber done and I can run them. Great work as always.

02-17-2008, 08:55 PM	#29
666 MODERHATER™ Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Colorado Posts: 10,939	NIce job on this Mike, I have pretty much done all this from looking at your pics on 801rcc. Not as pretty though! I need to get some updated pics of my setup for all to see and then need to start driving it regularly to wup the competition!!

02-17-2008, 09:03 PM	#30
Racer4Life I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: In Cali. Posts: 4,109	Nice write-up. I so need to try a set of these. Off to raid the piggy bank.

02-18-2008, 09:53 AM	#33
LIKES2CRAWL I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: KENNEWICK, WA Posts: 2,513	Looks good.....subscribe!

02-18-2008, 11:25 AM	#34
balang_479 Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Colorado Posts: 635	Nice clear work there, ive learnt some from this thread.. love the Poulsons.

02-18-2008, 11:59 AM	#35
Stormin2u I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2007 Location: Taylors Falls just hanging with the MNRCRC crew. Posts: 7,843	Mike, I love your axles you do such a wonderful job fabricating them. My question is the ring and pinion look to be nylon do you ever have to replace them? Thanks for the thread the GC 1 looks awesome with your axles.

02-18-2008, 05:32 PM	#38
FrankyRizzo I wanna be Dave Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Vegas Posts: 7,172	If you ever want to do one on a BlackJack let me know. Great stuff!

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