1/6 Wraith/Nylint TJ Jeep + scale quad

[cmbscx10]

Those are flipping awesome. I couldn't find 1/6 scale MFC. 1/6 scale MFC Fuel Can or 1/6 scale MFC Kraftstoff on fleabay so i'll keep diggin.

[TacoCrawler]

Originally Posted by cmbscx10

Looking really good. Are the back and front risers for the shocks or are you making hoops?

Details on the Fuel Cans please.

* My second build bodies look so lonely in the background and waiting to be packaged.

yep... still gotta make upper shock hoops...
probably will have to punch thru the bed for the rear shocks.
Mostly because I wish to mount them as vertical as possible.

And while I'm punching thru...
I'm going to tub the rear underside wheel wells
a little bit more... so the tires will stuff upwards farther.
Not sure how I'm going to do this... but I will

Originally Posted by cmbscx10

Those are flipping awesome. I couldn't find 1/6 scale MFC. 1/6 scale MFC Fuel Can or 1/6 scale MFC Kraftstoff on fleabay so i'll keep diggin.

They are very nice... the detail is awesome.
thought the price was fair too.

fleebay at yer service:

Dragon WWII Jerry Can German Jerry Can | eBay

^ note there is a combined shipping discount for purchasing more then one.
I paid $ 18.95 for the pair shipped to my door.

----------------

seems the ebay proprietor that I purchased the Everest16 from
has realized their mistake and responded.
Claims they are shipping another... and will include the tracking #
But I'm waiting to see if they follow thru.
Or if I need make refund request thru ebay.

[TacoCrawler]

few more pics... mocking up the shock positions
in attempt to determine the upper shock mount/riser height.
And whether I should punch thru the bed surface...
or just raise the body off the chassis enough to clear !?

Probably scratch build my own towers and weld them on...
But was also thinking about a bolt-on shock tower design...
such as the level3 3d type towers sold.
Tho' the cost of those... kinda' blows that idea.







Didn't take a picture of them yet...
But the lower shock end(s) mount to the outside of each plastic mount...
with no need to position/space them out wider.
They share the lower position along with the link ends...
using a longer bolt/nut.

Tho' the upper shock position is not being utilized...
the plastic mount on the axle sports a spacer/bolt/nut between the upper ears/ID as well.
I feel this will offer more strength to the plastic mount.

The upper mounts will need be spaced off the frame... about 6mm.

I'll take a picture of that later.

[cmbscx10]

Try these for the Shock Hoops

Scx10 upper link relocation tabs

Webstore - Bp Custom Chassis

Webstore - Bp Custom Chassis

These are where my shocks had to land. I used 8mm spacers for the Plastic Link up front and 7mm for the Alum rears.

[TacoCrawler]

Originally Posted by cmbscx10

Try these for the Shock Hoops

Scx10 upper link relocation tabs

Webstore - Bp Custom Chassis

Webstore - Bp Custom Chassis

Are the BP towers steel or aluminum ?
specifications ? couldn't find that info. hmmm

Thanks for sharing your pictures and the links

tho' the 1st link pnf

I like that the holes are already drilled
and likely better then I could do.

...give those a thought.
but for near the same money...
maybe... ?



odd that the lower shock end is positioned in the hoop... hmmm
maybe these are too small for my stock wraith shock bodies !?

[cmbscx10]

Originally Posted by TacoCrawler

Are the BP towers steel or aluminum ?
specifications ? couldn't find that info. hmmm

Thanks for sharing your pictures and the links

tho' the 1st link pnf

I like that the holes are already drilled
and likely better then I could do.

...give those a thought.
but for near the same money...
maybe... ?


odd that the lower shock end is positioned in the hoop... hmmm
maybe these are too small for my stock wraith shock bodies !?

The BPC items are all steel.

Try this one Webstore - Bp Custom Chassis

I do wish my front towers were farther back so i can lay the shocks tops farther back. I may get an extension and weld it on before i paint it.

Personally i don't like the L3 ones. You are correct in that they look very limiting.

[TacoCrawler]

Originally Posted by cmbscx10

The BPC items are all steel.

Try this one Webstore - Bp Custom Chassis

I do wish my front towers were farther back so i can lay the shocks tops farther back. I may get an extension and weld it on before i paint it.

Personally i don't like the L3 ones. You are correct in that they look very limiting.

^ Easy to cut off and re-weld to the position you want.

Knowing they're made from steel... is a big plus for me.
tho' the cost is a little high for my wanting.
But I just might go for those $ 8. tabs ($ 16. for 4) tho'
but I wouldn't need drill the holes. ! yay !

Yeah I don't really like the level3 squared edges either,
nor the aluminum construction anyways...
would have to alter that to look more rounded.
Likely not worth the effort.

So may just make my own for a just few pennies.
or spend $ 16. and have it easy :but dunno: hmm

Realized after fitting the body...
that I only need a short hoop or tab above the frame.
Purdy much like what is seen in my original drawing.
And lowering the bottom mount of the shock(s)...
allows me to fit with no need to punch thru the bed.
Well, at least for now.
Shock tuning will come later on.

My lower mounts are similar to yours
only I didn't have the proper length screw at the time
so I had to space it out even farther.
But I may alter that down the road
if I pick up the screws of the appropriate length.

pics of the shock(s) and lower mounting method...











my camera doesn't focus for poo anymore

[TacoCrawler]

Redcat Everest 16

welp... I finally got it.
long story... lousy ebay seller...
But ignoring that... It's time to move forward.

Looking at the chassis in detail makes me think...
it's not going to be just a simple body swap
as I once first thought.

Besides being slower then slow... (need go brushless me thinks)
the upper shock mount positions rather blow.
And the suspension's articulation is ridiculously unreal.

So I will need reposition the shock(s) upper mounts..
as the shocks need to be positioned more vertical
and forward from center, at the top(s).

a bigger project then I first thought.
so I may delay this build until I get the TJ rolling.

But here it is... before I start tinkering with it...

[cmbscx10]

Originally Posted by TacoCrawler

Redcat Everest 16

welp... I finally got it.
long story... lousy ebay seller...
But ignoring that... It's time to move forward.

Looking at the chassis in detail makes me think...
it's not going to be just a simple body swap
as I once first thought.

Besides being slower then slow... (need go brushless me thinks)
the upper shock mount positions rather blow.
And the suspension's articulation is ridiculously unreal.

So I will need reposition the shock(s) upper mounts..
as the shocks need to be positioned more vertical
and forward from center, at the top(s).

a bigger project then I first thought.
so I may delay this build until I get the TJ rolling.

But here it is... before I start tinkering with it...

Good to see it finally arrived. Definately delay it and finsh the TJ.

When you get back to the Quad from what i can see if you mount the ESC under the top plate basically invert it you look like you may have enough room to lower the body another 2".

[TacoCrawler]

yeah... the quad body was just placed atop the chassis for that visual.

The body will be dropped an inch at least...
tho' not likely two.
Can't go too low...
or Joe will not fit proportionately when seated on it.

The esc will be mounted in between the front fenders...
and replicate a radiator of some sorts.

The 1100mah nimh battery will get replaced with a 1300 mah 2s LiPo
There may be little need for the chassis top plate...
and that may get omitted.
The LiPo battery will fit into the recess(space) under the seat.
Tho' I will need to do a little body modification to make that work.
If it works out as I intend...
all of the e components, including the LiPo
will be attached to/up under the body's shell

The shock(s) mounting position(s) will be changed
Well... the upper mounts anyways.
I will likely bend some rod and fabricate extensions
both front and rear and the upper shock eye's will secure to those.

Currently the chassis is unstable and flops to either left or right.
I don't like that... and so requires change.
Will likely do a 4 link and lower the suspension a little as well.

of course I have a bunch of ideas...
tho' I'm not real sure if all of it will work out.
but I do aim to give it a shot.

My goal here is leaning more towards scale appearance...
then outright performance.
But... a little of both would be swell.

meh... couldn't help myself...
had to strip it down a little...
just to see if it will work out they way I intend.

Plus a visual of approximately
how low the quad body will sit.

[kgb424]

Taco

That's why I changed out the shocks to MRC aluminum bodied shocks, cause the stock shocks suck, and I also changed the shock location a little

to make it stable four linking, it helped out a lot, cause the 3 link kept popping out of the axles, and four linking fixed that problem

I also thought it was super slow at first until I found out, I could turn up the speed and make it crawl faster or slow it way down

Cause on the Exceed radio there is dial that you can turn and it speed up and crawl faster or you turn it down and it will crawl super slow its above the steering trim in the radio picture

I tried a Novak Brushless 380 18.5 Turn motor in it, and it was stupid fast turned up and the motor is a tight fit and you got widen the motor mounting holes

Its just easier to put a 370 brushed motor in it with out having to modify the motor mount

I know what I'm talking about my Exceed has been modified a few times

I even had it setup with a second servo and rear steering for a little while

but works better with one steering servo

[kgb424]

Taco

Here are some pictures of the shocks and how I mounted the top of the shocks

and upper deck I had to remake but wider cause I widen the chassis to get the 380 motor in there

a 370 drops right in, I put the 380 in the other Exceed cause its like a SCX10 frame, plenty of room, no shoe horning needed to fit the motor

and I put the widening bar close to the shocks mounts to eliminate a lot of flex out of the shocks and the chassis

[kgb424]

See I gave you input with out giving you a hard time

and no I'm not sick or off my game

just trying to be nice

don't think I like the feeling of being nice or playing nice with others

when I'm an XXXXXXX by nature and are dam good at

and have been for years and will until I die

[TacoCrawler]

Thanks Dennis...
I'll likely be asking you more
as I get this build going.

Oh and my instructions mention nothing about
the radio or the e components !?
In fact... they are useless.
Maybe I have to go online to find better instructions ?

In the mean time...

battery placement... (fits fairly snug in this slot under the seat)

(the RX/ESC will fit forward of the battery, and the esc will mount in front like a radiator)















tons more to do... but it's a start

[kgb424]

The speed adjustment is right above the steering servo trim

It took me a little while when I first got the radio I put batteries in it and seemed dead

until I opened the cover

and found the on/off switch for the radio

and the throttle speed adjustment

and steering adjustment

and steering reverse and throttle reverse switches

and the radio worked fine no problems with it at all

I just looked online and can't find a picture of the Redcat 2.4ghz 2 channel radio

too see if it has a on/off switch and throttle adjustment

cause the rims, tires, axles, tranny, shocks, the 3 link setup is identical to the Exceed

so I just assumed the radio had the throttle speed adjustment

and the on/off switch for the radio under a cover

like the Exceed radio

[TacoCrawler]

^ well my radio is somewhat different then yours.

Mine is basically a FlySky GT2...
which is cool...
because I have two FS GT3-C radios already...
and so this RedCat TX/RX is compatible.

And I may end up using one of those
for this quad... rather then the GT2 that it came with.
'least then I would have a throttle D/R

The RedCat FSGT2 TX system has:

steering trim
throttle trim
steering D/R

steering reverse
throttle reverse

but has no throttle D/R that I see.

[kgb424]

Hey yes you do the dial in middle cause off to the left it says throttle trim

on mine when you turn the throttle d/r it speeds up and the braking is less the faster you go

and if I turn it the other way it applies more brake and slows it down and drag brake locks at off throttle

there is a sweet spot where there is it the right amount of throttle and braking

so it craws good and brakes and the drag brake holds it in place

have tried you turning the dial with the radio on and the r/c on to see what it does

its got a zero and a 1,2,3 on both side of the zero, so it got to speed up and down and adjust the brake

turn it down around should apply more braking and drag

turn it up around and it should get faster

and probably has a sweet spot also

try it and see

you might like being able to turn it a little

cause I would crawl it slow on a rock pile

but the travel to the next rock pile I crank it up

It might do the same thing

try it that's how I found it, I turned the dial just to see what it did and it got faster one way, and slow the other way

and found it by accident

try it

it would been one of the first things

I would done after the mix up I would of checked that everything worked or it was going back

[TacoCrawler]

I don't have the same radio as you numbskull

I only have throttle trim on 'dis pos gt2 radio
that's only good for finding the throttle's neutral.
It doesn't alter speed.

The steering dual rate is nice tho'...
not sure how long the drive axle cups will last
but it steers better at max

Maybe I'll try to bind the included RX
with my FS GT3-C TX then I'd have dual rate throttle
and some other fine tuning adjustments.

I can normally do 10 models on it
and I do have a spare rx for it.
if for some reason the one I got in the kit doesn't bind.

[kgb424]

so did you turn the throttle trim dial

I just thought cause it had a 0 1, 2, 3 on both sides of zero that it would get faster one way and slow down the other way

but I guess not

I got a DX3C radio and don't like it much

the ****ing menu dial sucks

its a pain in the ASS to move around and get thru all the menus

I like the simple Traxxas 2.5 radio that you can run a shitload of models of

with out the display screen and ****ing menus

I had a Flysky 3 channel radio that was unlocked and had a 2s lipo for a battery

and ****ing hated the radio, there was so many ****ing options and adjustments

it never ****ing worked, I sold it before I took a ****ing hammer to it

I like a simple 2 channel radio no extra bullshit no multi models

simple ****ing radio

the Traxxas stores up to 20 receivers for one radio

and the Traxxas receivers are 5 channel

so I can run my lights off receiver

so much ****ing easier then the DX3C

[TacoCrawler]

^ not one word of yer gibberish helps me :der:

I won't buy spectrum
and I won't be purchasing a traxxas tx neither.

My FS GT3-C's are both stock...
it's not too difficult that way, IMO.
and they're good enough for me.

I like that they are dirt cheap to buy
and that they work just fine considering.
More then enough adjustments for my needs.

I purchased two extra GR3-F rx's
^ (supposed to handle 8v run thru (replaces original GR3-E)
for less then $ 20. to my door.
and I'm not paying more..
just 'cuz.

I don't need a 6 ch rx.

In other words...

Your personal experience in TX/RX's
does not garner my interests...
as I'm good with what I have.

Was just trying to figure out
why this Everest was so slow.
Not a bad thing... 'cuz it's supposed to be a crawler,
and it has lots of torque... so I guess that's good.
Just wanted a little more wheel speed is all.

Think I need more voltage/gear down...
but not sure this ESC will handle that.

So post discussion about what I do have...
and stop trying to sell me on things I don't have Lol

or use PM's rather then cluttering this thread.

Tho' the Maxstone is basically the same chassis as my Everest...
the included e components are obviously not shared.