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Old 12-12-2009, 09:48 PM   #21
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That black 'strap' looking thing in the pictures looks out of place, but is actually a section of Velcro that I use to keep the LiPo battery in place.
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Old 12-13-2009, 09:32 AM   #22
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I put 1 oz of BB's in each of my front tires. I can now climb up a "test" pile of stuff straight on. Previously I had to go at it at an angle.

I left the rear wheels unweighted. Is this advised? I thought putting weight back there would be counter productive to the weight in the front?

Thanks!
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Old 12-13-2009, 01:04 PM   #23
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Where are you guys finding the m2 rod? And I think Dog posted the link but here's a great place for small hardware. http://www.smallparts.com/index/?utm...e_Index_Header
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Old 12-14-2009, 04:50 AM   #24
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Rather than using solder wire to weight my front wheels, I actually used copper wire. It is heavier than solder, and still pretty easy to bend. I looped enough around the wheel to fill the gap that is in the wheel. I then ran a couple loops of electrical tape around it so it would not come unwrapped and puncture the tire (I cut the electrical tape into strips about the width of the gap in the wheel before wrapping it, so it wouldn't hang over the edge of the wheel). They seem a good bit heavier now. Seems to work really well, and doesn't seem to cause any problems with the tranny or axle.

That is all I've done so far.

Clark (SupermanWV)

Last edited by SupermanWV; 12-14-2009 at 04:52 AM.
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Old 12-14-2009, 10:32 AM   #25
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So i went springless. seems to work better.

then the motor wires popped off, so i took the oppertunity to rebuild my tranny.

i put in the largest pinion gear, removed the gear cover on the spur/pinion side.

The spur gear is a lil warped, and the mesh wash retarded. By adding the new pinion and re-doin the mesh, the truck doesnt make as much noise, and my run times are about 25% better.


I also have doen away with all the plasic mounting plates, and the spur cover because i deemed thm as worthless weight.

i then Braced the 2 sides w/ toothpicks until i can get my hands on some CF rod.

Last edited by BEELZEBOB; 12-14-2009 at 12:49 PM.
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Old 12-14-2009, 10:57 AM   #26
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WrenchHead's functional beadlock mod deserves to be in here I think.
Micro PVC Beadlock Mod
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Old 12-14-2009, 12:42 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BEELZEBOB View Post
So i went springless. seems to work better.

then the motor wires popped off, so i took the oppertunity to rebuild my tranny.

i put in the largest pinion gear, removed the gear cover on the spur/pinion side.

The spur gear is a lil warped, and the mesh wash retarded. By adding the new spur and re-doin the mesh, the truck doesnt make as much noise, and my run times are about 25% better.


I also have doen away with all the plasic mounting plates, and the spur cover because i deemed thm as worthless weight.

i then Braced the 2 sides w/ toothpicks until i can get my hands on some CF rod.
Alright man, you confused me there a little bid. Did you change to one of the pinions that came with it or did you put a different spur on it? More run time would be great but I was thinking that putting one of the bigger pinions on it would give it less torque.
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Old 12-14-2009, 12:48 PM   #28
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i put the bigger pinion on only. i confused you with a typo i just corrected.

Just like everyone elses, my spur is a lil warped.

but it sounds like youre a one of a lucky few if your spur gear isnt warped LOL

the tourque is in yor axels, so 2 more teeth on the pinion is a negligible loss. (you ever watch how fast your shafts are spinning compared to your wheels?)

I attribute the longer run times to a proper gear mesh.

out of the box mine was slow and noisey. My girlfriends was much more quite and faster.

after I took my tran apart, added the new spur and got the pinion and the spur to mesh properly, everything seems much smoother.

I left the cover off the spur and pinion because its worthless weight

Last edited by BEELZEBOB; 12-14-2009 at 12:50 PM.
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Old 12-14-2009, 02:14 PM   #29
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OK, cool. That makes much more sense now. Mine is a little noisy but I haven't torn it apart yet. This is my first worm gear set up so I wasn't real sure how all that worked. Did you notice much of an increase in wheels speed?

Its another rainy day here in T'town so I may have to tear mine down and tinker with it this afternoon.
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Old 12-14-2009, 02:26 PM   #30
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On my fly the spur 98% true. Wish I could say the same for the internal gear that meeses up the whole truck and it's getting worse.

BTW I tried a Kyosho xspeed motor from a miniz and it rocks far faster while still maintaining decent torque. Maybe because of the bbs.
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Old 12-14-2009, 03:00 PM   #31
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After moving the shocks down to the other hole, I got a little more travel. Great. However, with the axles dropped all the way down I was getting a nasty clicking, grinding noise comming from around the driveshafts. After further inspection I thought it was my driveshaft length. So I streched my shafts by 3 mm. BTW, if you guys are interested in an awesome looking streched driveshaft you can use the carbon fiber boom off an Axe CP heli. Looks so cool and was a prefect fit. No glue required. Anyways after that I was still getting the noise. Turns out it was the yoke (on the shaft) connected to the tranny side. A little dremel action took care of that. It now runs very smooth with the axles all the way down.
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Old 12-14-2009, 05:13 PM   #32
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ok this is what I did mine
shock on front and rear from micro T rear shocks make lower the body
shock mount top hole cut off and mounted inside hole
Link made by mini-t ball cups cut 2mm load cover with 3mm alumium tube. lower link banted, all link made longer then stock
so now weelbase is 113mm.
removed plactic cover for reciver taped and replaced all the hard wire to soft one and cut off If too long
lipo from my little heliy 4#3 400mah make two of them togather mounted at rear (too big looking but run about 30 min)
My video here http://s708.photobucket.com/albums/w...t=MVI_0968.flv
add wight all 4 tire rim winding 200 trun front 150 trun rear thin copper wire, this make more wight then lead wire + change all steel ling
star cut inside form. Extend driveshaft front and rear with cabon tubeing.




Last edited by ke6geu; 01-22-2010 at 02:14 AM.
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Old 12-14-2009, 05:18 PM   #33
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Spank You vey much

Last edited by BEELZEBOB; 12-15-2009 at 09:22 AM.
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Old 12-17-2009, 01:21 PM   #34
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I've done a lot of the above mentioned mods but no point posting them again, just the ones I've done that haven't been posted.....


I didn't like the stock tires, they looked like the lugs were too close together to get any bite. I opted to cut out every other lug from the tires, I think they look like mini rock grabbers like this. They stockers might work on 1/24th scale rocks but I use it on our 2.2 course (adding some smaller rocks of course) and they grip a lot better now.




I also switched the shocks out for MicroT shocks, they are shorter and limit the articulation just right. I had to switch the rods ends but it was quite easy, no modding required. The front MicroT shock is a little shorter so I used them in the back, just mounted the shock a little more horizontal to get the same travel as the front. I had to cut (break) the chassis so the body would fit anyway, it all worked out good.




I found a sweet H1 pickup body from a "Rip Cord Racer" plastic toy.




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Old 12-17-2009, 05:54 PM   #35
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Ive been trying to fit 4 cells from my 18R battery. I think it runs fine on 4.8 volts and with 1200mah I can run the thing for an hour. Plan is to have 2 cells on the rear axle and two on the front.

Anyone else try this or have any thoughts?
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Old 12-17-2009, 07:00 PM   #36
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it would work with 2/3A cells, but why? i guess if you already have them and are bored. but i have so many stock microt batteries i never use anyway. i would rather have weight lower in the wheels than on top of the axle. takes maybe 10 seconds to swap batteries. until i can get a mod motor or add more turns to the stock one, i cant play for an hour by myself. perhaps if i were crawling with other people but none of my buddies have the micros yet.
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Old 12-18-2009, 08:59 AM   #37
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Did a few mods:

Replaced the servo saver with a JR PROPO horn that slid right on.

Took a Zip-Tie that was the same width as the steering link and swapped it out. Now it has a smooth lip that won't snag as much as the stock link.

Same shock mod with Micro-t shocks

Lowered upper front link on the axle. Also bent it to clear the tires from scrubbing against them.

Added .030" spacer to the lower link on the axle.
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Old 12-18-2009, 03:08 PM   #38
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Quote:
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it would work with 2/3A cells, but why? i guess if you already have them and are bored. but i have so many stock microt batteries i never use anyway. i would rather have weight lower in the wheels than on top of the axle. takes maybe 10 seconds to swap batteries. until i can get a mod motor or add more turns to the stock one, i cant play for an hour by myself. perhaps if i were crawling with other people but none of my buddies have the micros yet.
I do have them laying around and I was bored when I thought of it I think the hour long run time would be pretty cool and the extra weight on top of the axles wouldn't be that bad compared to it being in the wheels. I don't have extra packs and I haven't tried a 2s lipo yet, not crazy about how people's motors and speedos are getting way to hot.

Thanks for the pics Rubbaneck, I'm doing that mod today.
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Old 12-18-2009, 04:15 PM   #39
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I do have them laying around and I was bored when I thought of it I think the hour long run time would be pretty cool and the extra weight on top of the axles wouldn't be that bad compared to it being in the wheels. I don't have extra packs and I haven't tried a 2s lipo yet, not crazy about how people's motors and speedos are getting way to hot.

Thanks for the pics Rubbaneck, I'm doing that mod today.
people's speedos and motors really have not been getting too hot at all.

I wouldnt be the sole member of team pro that has no lipo, if that were the case.

i wouldnt destroy a good pack of batteries that are in all honesty way too big and heavy for these lil guys.

you want to add weight to gain a good weight bias in the vehicle and its COG.

not to just make it heavy ya know?

lighter is better in all aspect fo crawling. but additional weight is usually needed to compensate fo electronics and motors and such.

COG baby
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Old 12-18-2009, 06:11 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BEELZEBOB View Post
people's speedos and motors really have not been getting too hot at all.

I wouldnt be the sole member of team pro that has no lipo, if that were the case.

i wouldnt destroy a good pack of batteries that are in all honesty way too big and heavy for these lil guys.

you want to add weight to gain a good weight bias in the vehicle and its COG.

not to just make it heavy ya know?

lighter is better in all aspect fo crawling. but additional weight is usually needed to compensate fo electronics and motors and such.

COG baby
I still use the OG Nimh packs. No fancy pants lipos for me yet.

You guys are right but dammit I'm gonna do it anyway. The only reason is the ridiculous run time would be sweeeeeeeeeeeeet.
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