Losi Baja Rey 1/10th 4WD RTR desert truck

[84yoda]

Originally Posted by RenoC6z

15min of run time on 3s 10t pinion = melted center section LOL. I hate the shocks they have no bladder whats up with that? I really think the helical cut gears are killing these lame bearings. I did the math last night before I even ran my truck and if I ran the RR ring and pinion with the 13t motor pinion the truck would have a theoretical top speed of 47mph vs stocks 45 on 3s +10t.

I just happen to have some traxxas big bores apart and I have LOS233004 here as well and it looks like the bladders from the big bores will work. But until I have the losi shocks apart, I can't say for sure.

[RenoC6z]

I ordered xxl gtr shocks for the front but the cap hits the shock tower........I could make it work but I might try proline powerstrokes all the way around.

[RenoC6z]

I want a variable valve shock but nobody makes kits anymore except traxxas.

[greengoblin]

[TheLetterJ]

I don't need new lower arms yet (but if I keep hitting those little subterrainian/iceberg rocks in our riverbed sand, iit may not be too long) those sure are purdy though! Any change in ride height, or are the outer shock mounting holes in about the same position as stock? I ditched my front swaybar last time I had the front end apart, so that wouldn't be missed.

I stripped out another wheel hex Sunday night so I went ahead and ordered up the $20 ebay KMC/General tire combo. Right rear corner again. I'm plugging the vent holes on the next set, my current wheels must have 4oz of sand in them which probably contributed to stripping the wheels, although the wheel nut was 1/2 turn loose this time. I just superglued the hex on to hopefully hold me over until the new wheels arrive next week. Hopefully I can keep my precious little brake calipers!

[greengoblin]

Originally Posted by TheLetterJ

I don't need new lower arms yet (but if I keep hitting those little subterrainian/iceberg rocks in our riverbed sand, iit may not be too long) those sure are purdy though! Any change in ride height, or are the outer shock mounting holes in about the same position as stock? I ditched my front swaybar last time I had the front end apart, so that wouldn't be missed.

I stripped out another wheel hex Sunday night so I went ahead and ordered up the $20 ebay KMC/General tire combo. Right rear corner again. I'm plugging the vent holes on the next set, my current wheels must have 4oz of sand in them which probably contributed to stripping the wheels, although the wheel nut was 1/2 turn loose this time. I just superglued the hex on to hopefully hold me over until the new wheels arrive next week. Hopefully I can keep my precious little brake calipers!

No ride height change and yes the last hole is the same as stock

[84yoda]

YAY!

https://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/ssd00177.htm

[CoolRunning]

So are guys having bearing issues in the front as well as the back? SSD 3rd member seems like the ticket for the rear.

[CoolRunning]

They look great though how well do you think they will hold up?

My plastic ones and chassis plate are getting pretty chewed up with the bashing over rocks and stuff. I worry espec after watching a vid from Bulletproof RC (where his new aluminium rear lower links looked like total crap) that the metal stuff will be eaten away much more quickly than the cheap (and surprisingly rather tough) plastic stuff.

Originally Posted by greengoblin

[greengoblin]

Originally Posted by CoolRunning

They look great though how well do you think they will hold up?

My plastic ones and chassis plate are getting pretty chewed up with the bashing over rocks and stuff. I worry espec after watching a vid from Bulletproof RC (where his new aluminium rear lower links looked like total crap) that the metal stuff will be eaten away much more quickly than the cheap (and surprisingly rather tough) plastic stuff.

I race mine in a local tropy truck class. I think they will do fine. I also clean my truck after ever race and lube needed items

[84yoda]

Originally Posted by CoolRunning

So are guys having bearing issues in the front as well as the back? SSD 3rd member seems like the ticket for the rear.

Front yes but rear is worse. They both use 5x10 bearings, which is tiny. So glad SSD is using 5x13.

Im waiting on rear trailing arms till another company comes out with some. I would go with SS or 7075, both strong and slide good on rocks and depending if you want more weight or not, you can pick. Plus they wont get chewed up like the aluminum ones. A lot of companies are getting on board with the RR out now, we need to be patient a little longer and will see more options available soon.

[TheLetterJ]

Only $28 for the SSD 3rd member too. I won't be replacing my MC 3rd anytime soon, but if they were both available when I was in the market, I'd likely go SSD + Drvnpro truss Losi Baja Rey R/C Axle Housing 6061 Aluminum brace | DRVNPRO

Hopefully they keep adding more parts.

[CoolRunning]

I'll be getting that SSD 3rd member for sure. Hopefully there is a big bearing front option as well from SSD. Without the bearing issues, these trucks seem pretty impressive. Yeah the wheels can crack and the rear axle can flex but a few hop ups here and there likely will make for a very robust machine.

I'm not sure about the truss as it looks to be cable tied to the housing; am I correct in what I'm seeing?

Originally Posted by TheLetterJ

Only $28 for the SSD 3rd member too. I won't be replacing my MC 3rd anytime soon, but if they were both available when I was in the market, I'd likely go SSD + Drvnpro truss Losi Baja Rey R/C Axle Housing 6061 Aluminum brace | DRVNPRO

Hopefully they keep adding more parts.

[CM9000]

Originally Posted by CoolRunning

I'll be getting that SSD 3rd member for sure. Hopefully there is a big bearing front option as well from SSD. Without the bearing issues, these trucks seem pretty impressive. Yeah the wheels can crack and the rear axle can flex but a few hop ups here and there likely will make for a very robust machine.

I'm not sure about the truss as it looks to be cable tied to the housing; am I correct in what I'm seeing?

you have to glue it to the housing.

greengoblin doesn't race, video or it didn't happen.

don't know how many times I have to say this... MAITENANCE IS KEY TO KEEPING THIS TRUCK RUNNING. KEEP IT CLEAN AND IT WONT BREAK! IF YOU SHIM YOUR PINION GEARS IN THE FRONT AND REAR YOU WONT HAVE BEARING ISSUES! KEEP YOUR FRONT AND REAR GEARS LUBED! CHECK YOUR CENTER DIFF ONCE AND A WHILE.

[RenoC6z]

Originally Posted by 84yoda

YAY!

https://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/ssd00177.htm

What grade aluminum I wonder?

[greengoblin]

The local trophy trucks representing at #chehawRacewayrc

[greengoblin]

[fyrstormer]

Originally Posted by 84yoda

YAY!

https://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/ssd00177.htm

You have my attention.

Now we need a big-bearing front diff case to go with it.

Originally Posted by RenoC6z

What grade aluminum I wonder?

SSD uses very good aluminum. I have their aluminum diff covers for my SCX10 II and my Ascender, and I can smack them into rocks all day long without problems.

[fyrstormer]

Originally Posted by RenoC6z

I want a variable valve shock but nobody makes kits anymore except traxxas.

Are you looking for shocks that have firmer damping in one direction? You can get that by cutting a tiny piece of an aluminum can, fitting it onto the shock shaft above or below the piston (below the piston if you want firmer rebound damping, or above if you want firmer compression damping) so it covers one of the piston holes, and then reassemble the shock. The tiny strip of aluminum will act as a one-way valve to let fluid pass through the covered hole in one direction only, giving you different damping rates for compression vs. rebound.

[greengoblin]

From yesterdays race