Team [HOONIGAN]'s DRX(s)

[TURTLE]

I first ran 7-10-10, and 10 in the center is too much. I just tried 7-7-10 and the center is still too much. I am going to jump down to 3 in the center and see how it does. Another thing though is I am running foams in my tires that I think are much too soft, so that is another thing I am currently playing with.

It does very on the terrain you are driving on, but on my tarmac test today the center needs to be looser.

Juan- I would run 4 cell, but you have seen it! Plus I don't have any right now that can handle this car.

[BasicMods]

So the money I set a side for the WR8 just burned a hole in my pocket for the DRX



I have already shredded off some of the Scorpion Pirelli tire stickers and had the plastic headlight buckets fall out. and that was just on a 2 cell!

The handeling of this car is just awesome. loving the realism of the driving characteristics of this car. it ran great on my loose silt dirt track. it slides very nicely around the corners in the soft silt. it handles better that expected over the jumps with all that suspension travel. great cornering on the pavement. i got a big smile drifting around the manhole covers with just the stock set up. I can totally understand what Turtle is talking about, so much more fun that the 1/10 scale cars.

Time to start tuning. First thing is to replace the crappy radio. I can get about 1/2 a block (175 ft) before is looses signal. I noticed that on the way back from the edge of signal the throttle hesitated and studdered a few times, not very good. Side guards and dust cover after that. Then replace the slow stock servo. I will have to get to the ESC & motor later. going to have to get some diff oils, thanks to you guys for suggestions!!!

So glad I got this thing!!!! can't wait to race it!!!

[thx138]

So just an FYI to anyone with a VE, the Route 246 steering rack is not a direct drop in. I think it will work with a little servo relocation.

[cbp27]

Originally Posted by BasicMods

So the money I set a side for the WR8 just burned a hole in my pocket for the DRX.

Side guards and dust cover after that.

Same here.

I guess the stock dust cover doesn't help that much? How is the Orion stuff?

[TURTLE]

Originally Posted by cbp27

Same here.

I guess the stock dust cover doesn't help that much?

Mine works great!

[TURTLE]

Now running 7-3-10 and it is working much better. Im going to try 7k front-3center -5k rear next and see how that works. I need the rear end to break loose a little less on these open road conditions.

I also put some new tires and wheels on, I smoked the other set on tarmac the other day. The Kyosho "soft" foams were also too soft. So I cut some HB rover foams in half and shoved them inside. Much firmer and seems to help through the corners.

Got some photos from yesterday and the new spot that is perfect for these cars.

The mark of the DRX.

[cbp27]

Originally Posted by TURTLE

Mine works great!


The mark of the DRX.

Aweseom shots again Ty! That's the Pro-Line Shift MP9 body? Does it hold in heat?

[TURTLE]

Originally Posted by cbp27

Aweseom shots again Ty! That's the Pro-Line Shift MP9 body? Does it hold in heat?

Thanks!

I think thats what the body is... I posted it somewhere in this thread.

A little bit, but the advantages far outway the disadvantages. I still get 20-30 minutes of drive time before it gets real hot. And it stays really clean inside the car, a little dust, but thats it. I run full under bodies in my 10th scale cars too.

[BasicMods]

Originally Posted by cbp27

Same here.

I guess the stock dust cover doesn't help that much? How is the Orion stuff?

Not the greatest. it would deflect the bigger rocks out but its just thin plastic held down by 3 top screws. the edges of the cover barely touch the chassis. i would suggest doing what Ty has done, that's the next step for me. especially if you're gong to run in mud season

Ty thanks for the body find. what are the part numbers for the side chassis guards?

So far the Motor & ESC haven't given me any problems, the radio on the other hand ... i will be upgrading before any racing starts. i don't know if it could hold a signal from one side of Hoon470 to the other. it also acts twitchy after regaining signal for a couple of seconds.

The stock steering servo isn't to bad. just a little slow for my taste.

[TURTLE]

Originally Posted by TURTLE

Thanks!

The side guards are IF449 For the MP9.

[cbp27]

This was just delivered today!



The body is really nice, especially the 3D light buckets. My Spektrum rx is in and ready to go. I just need to raise the battery holder posts for my 3S hard case and maybe toss in my Hitec servo.

After driving it a little I'll start doing Ty's upgrades.

[TURTLE]

Awesome! It's great seeing so many of these cars popping up.

[viking252200]

Hello guys,

I have been eying the drx for some time now and reading this thread, finally convinced me to get one...

It just so happened that my LHS had a Mitsubishi lancer drx and since I spend quite a lot there, I got it for the equivalent of 200 us$

While I quite like nitro, living as I do in Japan, there aren't many places I can run a nitro without annoying the neighbors, so I ordered parts to convert it into an electric

Upon opening the box, I was surprised how big the body was...it's bloody massive!!

I have a few questions for you guys...

I'm building the diffs right now and I noticed that they only have two spider gears in them, should I upgrade to 4 immediately or do they hold up ok?

The instructions call for 5000w all around, is this fine or should I use different weights? If so what do you recommend?

Since the tires don't come with inserts, should I pick some up?

Thanks!

[TURTLE]

Originally Posted by viking252200

Hello guys,

I have been eying the drx for some time now and reading this thread, finally convinced me to get one...

It just so happened that my LHS had a Mitsubishi lancer drx and since I spend quite a lot there, I got it for the equivalent of 200 us$

While I quite like nitro, living as I do in Japan, there aren't many places I can run a nitro without annoying the neighbors, so I ordered parts to convert it into an electric

Upon opening the box, I was surprised how big the body was...it's bloody massive!!

I have a few questions for you guys...

I'm building the diffs right now and I noticed that they only have two spider gears in them, should I upgrade to 4 immediately or do they hold up ok?

The instructions call for 5000w all around, is this fine or should I use different weights? If so what do you recommend?

Since the tires don't come with inserts, should I pick some up?

Thanks!

That was the first thing I did to the diffs was add the gears. I read around quite a bit and everyone said to do it to help with strength. I have never run the diffs with less then 4 gears.

I am currently running 7k in the front, 3K in the center and 10 k in the rear. Depending on your terrain you may want to change this around a little, but the 3k in the center allows the front end to pull harder. If your running on a very tight track were you want the car to break free a lot you will want to keep something like 10k in the rear, but if you want a little more traction with the rear end you may be happier with 5k.

My nitro DRX came with glued tires with inserts in them. Did you get a kit version? Regardless I highly recommend inserts in the tires without them the tires will roll too much on themselves and wear very quickly.

[gdb85]

I took mine out offroading finally and man what a blast! I am into this hook, line and sinker. I almost regret ordering a new XV 01, not sure a 1/10 scale will be as much fun.

Stock power plant seems fine to me. I'm running 2s for now until I beef up the diffs. Which brings me to my question....Ty or anybody, where are you getting the gears and shafts from to add to the diffs? I have the part #'s just can't locate any.

I found and bought some from some Encindido Power hobby or something like that. After 10 days didn't receive any shipping info so I e-mail to find out what's up and 3 hrs later they gave me a full refund. WTF I guess I upset someone lol.

I need to know where you guys get your stuff, please.

[TURTLE]

Kyosho America generally has them in stock, especially since they are used in other vehicles.

AmainHobbies.com has them most of the time too and they are the ones I order 90% of my Kyosho parts from. If they don't have it I go to Kyosho America and then ebay.

So far between the 3 sources I have found everything I have needed/wanted in stock.

[cbp27]

Would 5k oil in all three diffs be bad, or a good starting point for testing? Is one 40cc bottle enough for all three diffs or will I need more? Thanks for the help.

[TURTLE]

Originally Posted by cbp27

Would 5k oil in all three diffs be bad, or a good starting point for testing? Is one 40cc bottle enough for all three diffs or will I need more? Thanks for the help.

Thats not a bad starting point at all. Especially if your on a budget of some type it won't hurt. From there you should be able to tell if you want the diffs looser or tighter. One bottle will be plenty to do many, many differentials.

[viking252200]

What kind of motor do you guys suggest for the DRX?

I'm looking at the Tenshock 401 3500 or 4000kv motor...any good?

I know that CC is an known option, but here in Japan, they tend to be rather expensive

I have finished building my diffs and went with a 7000w-3000w-5000w combination.
I just have a wee problem with the center diff leaking...any suggestions?

[TURTLE]

Originally Posted by viking252200

What kind of motor do you guys suggest for the DRX?

I'm looking at the Tenshock 401 3500 or 4000kv motor...any good?

I know that CC is an known option, but here in Japan, they tend to be rather expensive

I have finished building my diffs and went with a 7000w-3000w-5000w combination.
I just have a wee problem with the center diff leaking...any suggestions?

For the diffs leaking there is a gasket kit that is sold through Kyosho for these cars, on other sites it was recommended to put these in right away. I got away with the stock gaskets until a few weeks ago when my center diff started leaking. After putting the new gasket in the center there hasn't been any issues.

I think these are the replacement ones.
Kyosho Differential Gasket Set (4) [KYOVS001-01] | RC Cars & Trucks - A Main Hobbies

As for the motor Im not sure, these are bigger cars so I suggest at least a 550 size can motor. I also think that a lower KV would be a good idea to help with the wheel spinning torque that makes these so fun. I know Kyosho is putting smaller motors in these from the factory, but I have had such good success with the CC motor its tough for me to recommend anything else.