The new redcat everest-10 crawler?

[lobodog1]

I have been looking like crazy for more info on this crawler. Here are a few videos I found on youtube. I wish someone would do a full unboxing/review of the Everest 10. I would love for someone to test fit some Axial parts as well before I pull the trigger on one of these.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ul92T2cMDxo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KPpsysQyxas

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=laenmuTujSQ

[JCon]

only downfall I see really is the dogbones as usual

[aftershock1]

Here's my take so far but for $130 it's a great start
- steering servo has a great amount of torque and is water proof
- esc and receiver are waterproof
- the torque flex sucks but there is multiple things to do to lessen it
- the pinion gear is brass so it wears pretty easily
- the back axle link mount sucks and is very cheap so i made a delrin plate to keep it from bending
- the tires are decent and grippy
- almost everything on it looks axial capable for swapping
- the tamiya battery connectors suck
- the motor is decent little slow but it's a crawler
- all metal links is a plus
- other than that i think its a good starter plenty of mods to do i'll try to get a video later

[JCon]

pics maybe of the rear axle link mount u speak of?

and what u did.

[aftershock1]

see the white piece on the back axle? i just cut out a square from cutting board decently thick, there is three holes out back two are on the axle and one on the link mount it's so you can mount a servo plate and make it 4 wheeler steer so i just made a plate so the back link mount doesn't bend forward and cause axle roll

[Robotron]

I just finished installing Hot Racing SCX10 CVD's up front,
and HR SCX10 straight axles with rear lockouts.
with Axial Iron Crosse lockers and axial diff holders in both axles.

it was 90% direct bolt in,
I only had to file down the nubs where the lockout screws go in on the rear axle, just a little to get the lockouts to slide on.

Then I had to grind about a 1/16th of an inch off the inner side of the lockouts, to get them to slide on far enough to get the screws in,

All of the bearings from the redcat will work on the HR CVD's and axles.


Looks like Axial C-hubs and steerings knuckles are compatible,
as well as Axial ring & pinion gears.

[Robotron]

Here's a Vid from our trail run last weekend, with some footage of my Everest when it was still stock.
not much vid of my truck, because I only had one battery with me and had to bail half way through the run.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rbV1...ature=youtu.be

[lobodog1]

Originally Posted by Robotron

Here's a Vid from our trail run last weekend, with some footage of my Everest when it was still stock.
not much vid of my truck, because I only had one battery with me and had to bail half way through the run.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rbV1...ature=youtu.be

Thanks for the parts info! It looks like it did pretty well in that video for sure.

[VoodooSteve]

I first put on some siped ripsaws and weighted rims for a decent improvement, but wasn't real happy with the way they performed, then I put on some cut interco boggers with DNA assassin rims, and the difference is amazing!!

[TakeOffYouHoser]

Originally Posted by jsowens

You have me curious!

After some basement crawling last night ...

I'm not sure what I like more, when compared against the RS10, but it's a tie between the steering servo, the lack of lurchiness and it's mod/upgrade potential.

Steering servo - HexFly HX-15S. I'm told this is the same waterproof, metal gear 15kg unit used in RedCat's 1/5th scale gas RCs for the throttle/brake. It's strong, no BS unit here. FAR outweighs the units on the RS10 when it comes to performance. I guess RedCat learned their lesson with the crappy little pieces of crap they put on the RS10. Don't get me wrong, i'm not saying this is the "be all end all" servo, but you don't need to make it your first upgrade before you even hook up the battery.

Throttle control/lurchiness - I can't say none, there's a tiny bit with the Everest 10, but that's the important word - TINY. Slow speed control is easier to achieve with the E10, bar none. The E10 is certainly slower than the RS10 and this ties-in with the low speed control. The (27T?) brushed motor turns a 14t brass pinion that engages an 87t plastic spur gear. Not sure how brass is weaker than plastic, but i've seen this posted a few times already, so not sure what to expect here.

Potential - I think the RS10 is best modded to a stick or torsion chassis or something that doesn't use the stock chassis/shock configuration. It's not a horrible crawler, by any means, but let's face it, the motor placement is PERFECTLY in the worst spot possible for the stock chassis. The E10, however, is the exact opposite. In it's stock form it doesn't need the major surgery that many have afflicted on their RS10 (including stick and torsion chassis conversions, nonetheless lol). The Everest-10 hits the rocks with immediate upgrade possibilities that are well versed in the crawler world, and many that don't carry a price tag worthy of selling your first born (yeah I should write for a magazine, I know lol).

I will do my best to put up a new thread here in the RS10 section with lots of detailed pics, plenty of commentary and a few gripes (anyone looked at their motor clearance yet? lol) this weekend. Can't do much for video yet because ... well I have no experience with that ... yet.

Gawd it's killing my not to Chisel and droop this thing right off the bat.

[aftershock1]

Here's some quick pics of the mount i made nothing special just some backyard stuff

[davemud]

Aftershock, would you post some pics of your front frame extensions with the body off please?

I've been thinking about doing similar extensions on my MS10 so I can mount the shocks vertical and make some room to move the battery to a lower position in front for project Yellow Dog.

Thanks,

Dave

[aftershock1]

The extensions go from front to back ill grab some in a bit

[aftershock1]

Here's the half-a$$ frame lol




Also broke the front driveshaft, she's down till i can order some others the pin decided to twist its way out

[robn69]

My daughter has been wanting a crawler. Think i found what im getting her!

[chopfather]

Hey aftershock1 you should just go to your local hobby shop and get traxxas stock drive shafts. You can cut them to length because thy are plastic but they are tough. I use them on my trail stomper and they are much tougher than the junk stock driveshafts it came with.

[robn69]

Any one else have any feedback on this thing?

[honchojoe]

Check the other thread. Lots in there.

This one.

A deeper look within the Redcat Everest 10 crawler

[jstclair]

The Redcat E10 is similar to the HSP Pangolin.. but there are some differences..
The Pangolin comes with rear steer, and the tires seem to be a little better grip
The Pangolin frame has crossmembers at the shocks, which seem to make it a little stiffer
The battery tray is in a better spot on the Redcat, but no room to move it.. the Pangolin has enough room to tie wrap it under the front of the tray to move the weight more fwd and down
By moving the battery and outboarding the shocks, most of the torque roll is gone on the Pangolin; still a good bit on the E10
A 35T motor is an excellent upgrade.
Axial lockers fit in the diffs with minor mods on the axles.. the stock ones are plastic and strip out pretty easy
Both bodies need a good bit of trimming to keep the tires from rubbing, especially if you take the shock spacers out. Shocks are very soft.

[honchojoe]

HSP have 2 models. The Pangolin which seems to be the most common and the Right CR which is identical to the redcat except it has the HSP tyres. The Redcat tyres look better than the HSP to me.