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Thread: My AR60 Axled Super Class Shafty. Ready To Run!

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Old 02-08-2012, 01:33 AM   #1
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Default My AR60 Axled Super Class Shafty. Ready To Run!

So, I've been accumulating some parts, and thought this would be a fun Way to introduce my nephews into the crawling scene. It's both a simple formula, with some good technical bits to be a crash course in crawlers. Plus, the rocks in their back yard is a bit tough for a 2.2. Above all, uncle can still play with it

Here's some of the parts.



Here is the short list of what's the plan of attack.

- Wraith axles set up for 4ws
- AX trans with HR gears, CDW 6mm long output up front, Eritex dig, Maxx shafts
- SuperShafty.com BombProof top shaft w/ RRP Gen3 slipper
- HH 10t
- East Coast RC cut n shuts (Super Sedonas up front, Super Rovers back side
- 1" wide Blast wheels from Carter Fab
- CDW 1.0 old school chassis for that low slung stance
- XR shocks with a cap mod
- Hitec 7954 getting 7,4v from a CC BEC up front
- Hitec 5955 running 6v off the esc out back
- BRXL & RX bypass adapters sourced through CREATIONFAB
- MT4

Links will most likely be delrin or aluminum solid rod.

More to come once the rest of the goods show up.

Last edited by TSK; 03-23-2012 at 01:39 PM.
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Old 02-08-2012, 07:11 AM   #2
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Looking forward to seeing this come together
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Old 02-08-2012, 12:16 PM   #3
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Looking forward to seeing this come together
Thanks buddy. The tires look hella sweet btw. I'm stoked thati picked them up.

This thing should be fun when it's done. Surely not as capable as an MOA Super, but i'm confident it'll exceed my expectations and put some smiles on the kids faces
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Old 02-08-2012, 12:44 PM   #4
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Very cool! I would keep the tires and wheelbase a little smaller to keep the axles and shafts happy. Like 16" Wb, 12.5" TW, and 6.5" od tires.
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Old 02-08-2012, 12:49 PM   #5
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Very cool! I would keep the tires and wheelbase a little smaller to keep the axles and shafts happy. Like 16" Wb, 12.5" TW, and 6.5" od tires.
Thanks for the insight. It should be fun to run in the end. No expereience with things this sixe, so the learning curve is steep, but I think she should hold up.

I was thining of keepin the WB on the shorter side of 17" and I'm pplanning on using Maxx shafts. Not sure wha the track width will be, but I'm gonna use the Pro-line 17mm adapters for the 4x4 Slash to widen it up a little. The tires are at home, but I imagine they are at least 7.5" tall

edit: Found a pic on my phone.


Last edited by TSK; 02-08-2012 at 12:53 PM.
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Old 02-08-2012, 01:01 PM   #6
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Those are every bit of 8" tall I imagine. I think that size tire is going to give you hell with those axles. I've seen quite a few broken universal stubs on 2.2 cars.

I hope I'm wrong. But I would really consider smaller tires on 3.2" plastic wheels.

Here is my 16er I built for an example of the proportions I am talking about.

16er Super
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Old 02-08-2012, 01:56 PM   #7
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Those are every bit of 8" tall I imagine. I think that size tire is going to give you hell with those axles. I've seen quite a few broken universal stubs on 2.2 cars.

I hope I'm wrong. But I would really consider smaller tires on 3.2" plastic wheels.

Here is my 16er I built for an example of the proportions I am talking about.

16er Super
That's a pretty dope lookig build there. Since i already have the tires and the wheels are en route, I may just try them out. I'm only running a 10t on a slippered trans so that should save me from some grief. Perhaps i should mod the dogbones for more angle as opposed to throwing in the uni's i have... eh i'll figure it out all in due time.

On the 16er, are those TLT type shock mounts on the lowers? Did you machine a flat into the link first or just bolt them on? Since i'm gonna be running a 2.2 chassis, I've been pondering how i want to mount my shocks on the bottom end.

So far, I have those old style clamp on's that I can put on some 1/4"(?) aluminum rod I have, or I was thinking of making some delrin lowers out of a stock pile of 5/16" rode i've accumulated and maybe try some of those TLT looking mounts. Unfortunately i don't have a "precise" way to grind a flat on them for TLT's.
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Old 02-08-2012, 06:51 PM   #8
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I don't know if the dog bones are any stronger or not. The ones that I have seen break broke at the stub and lost a wheel.

They are tlt brackets. I "machined" the flats with my dremel.... Those links are 3/8" delrin rod. The fronts were straight and held up well, but the rear lowers broke a few times near the bend at the rear most bolt on the tlt bracket. I ended up switching to 3/8" sheet links in the rear.

So definitely don't use 5/16 delrin. I would say best bet would be making them out of delrin sheet, or aluminum, steel, or ti rod.
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Old 02-08-2012, 10:30 PM   #9
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Those tires are 7.7" at most on a NARROW wheel. If you mounted them on anything wider than 1" like a 1.5" you'd be sitting at around 7.5" or just under that.
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Old 02-09-2012, 01:17 AM   #10
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I don't know if the dog bones are any stronger or not. The ones that I have seen break broke at the stub and lost a wheel.

They are tlt brackets. I "machined" the flats with my dremel.... Those links are 3/8" delrin rod. The fronts were straight and held up well, but the rear lowers broke a few times near the bend at the rear most bolt on the tlt bracket. I ended up switching to 3/8" sheet links in the rear.

So definitely don't use 5/16 delrin. I would say best bet would be making them out of delrin sheet, or aluminum, steel, or ti rod.
Thanks for the input. I think I'll just try some straight aluminum lowers with the clamp on mounts early on. Once I determine the WB and shock positioning I like, I'll ask Crawling Calvin to machine me some delrin links with integrated shock mounts

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Those tires are 7.7" at most on a NARROW wheel. If you mounted them on anything wider than 1" like a 1.5" you'd be sitting at around 7.5" or just under that.
Carter Fab is hooking me up with some 1" wide Blasts. The method he uses to narrow them is absolutely ingenious.

Since this is a shafty, I don't think I'll be able to run the kind of high clearance links as I'd typically want, so I want as much GC I can get from the tire/wheel setup. 7.7" tall sounds like my kind of tire
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Old 02-09-2012, 10:52 AM   #11
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Nice start to a "Super Shafty"

Subscribed !!

Regards V8
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Old 02-09-2012, 04:59 PM   #12
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Nice start to a "Super Shafty"

Subscribed !!

Regards V8
Thanks man. I'm crossing my fingers and hoping this turns out well.

Small package came in the mail today. OG CDW 1.0



I had gifted this to Gunnar quite a long time ago, and when this project came to mind I thought I'd ask him if he still had it. Well, he did, and he was kind enough to send it back to Hawaii. Thanks Scott

Main concern is that I'll be running some long ass shocks on this thing, and the 1.0 was designed around some much shorter shocks. Because the WB is so long, I think I'll be able to keep the overall height pretty low by laying down the shocks. I'll probably have to externally limit them to keep things in check though.
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Old 02-09-2012, 06:30 PM   #13
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3.5" shocks would probably be best, but you could cut down the bodies of the XR shocks because they are threaded right? Do you have any shorter shock shafts laying around? Keep in mind the shock mounts on the links add more height as well.

I do like using the longer skid 2.2 chassis though. Thats similar to the Chaotic chassis I used in that 16er thread.
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Old 02-09-2012, 10:16 PM   #14
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I do have some 3.5" big bores... But I don't think I'll need them, or the link mounts.





WB is at 16-3/8" right now. I think I want to stretch it to 17" to get the height a little flatter but I'll wait till the wheels come in. As it is, I could externally limit the XR's by a 1/3rd of their travel. Overall, I'm pretty happy how this little mock up turned out. I do think I am gonna try the 5/16" delving lowers though, mainly because the links on here are some funky thread size that is too big for 3mm rod ends and too small for Revo ends. But since they won't have mount drilled into them, or any crazy bends, it "should" be ok. I plan to go with 4mm studs and revo ends.
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Old 02-10-2012, 02:16 PM   #15
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Cut the 5/16" delrin rod to length. I think the slightly longer WB will bringthe ride height down a little, But i may still internally limit the shocks a tad.

Link lengths (minus rod ends) aare:

Uppers - 5.5"
Lowers - 5.25"
Front tierod - 6.75"
Rear tierod - 6.5"

Uppers will have a single bend for chassis and driveshaft clearance. Lowers are straight. Front tie rod will have a double bend for clearance of the long Robi style servo horn. rear tie rod will have a single bend.

Just waiting on a fresh 4mm tap so that I can finish them up.

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Old 02-10-2012, 05:03 PM   #16
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This looks interesting, looking forward to more updates

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Old 02-12-2012, 03:23 AM   #17
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Interesting is right. Everything seems so familiar, but so foreign at the same time.

I had some time do quite a bit of mock up today. I snapped one of the uppers trying to bend it. Guess it wasn't hot enough. Surprisingly, the 1/4" aluminum rods I "had" originally used as lowers we're near perfect at getting the pinion angles correct. I did have to cheat and use a Jato rod end on one end of each of the lowers though. Squash down, the WB is 17.25"



The 10t Holmes puller is a beast, and couldn't fit between the rails of the CDW chassis. I couldn't see myself relying on anything else to get those big wheels turning, so I had to make a big sacrifice. I had to make a spacer to raise the motor/trans assembly up about a 1/4".



Sadly this does raise my COG significantly, but then again, the puller clears just fine now.



When I mock up the Maxx shafts, I will see if the uppers need a bend to clear them on the axle end. If they need a bend, I'll probably swap out the Jatos on the lowers for Revo's which will maintain my pinion angles as well as shorten up the WB a tad.

Front servo is off, as I will be fabricating a axle mounted lipo tray that will allows to secure a 2s or 3s 850mah lipo on each side of the servo. Running them in series will get me that 4s-6s power I desire. Plus it'll keep on that weight on the axle and far forward. I put the VP XR knuckles on to allow me to "hopefully" fit the DLux knuckle weights up front.

Last edited by TSK; 02-12-2012 at 03:31 AM.
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Old 02-12-2012, 05:34 AM   #18
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4-6s power on that 10t is gona be hard on parts lol

I like the idea though, has me thinking about a fun rig from all my extra parts....
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Old 02-12-2012, 12:40 PM   #19
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4-6s power on that 10t is gona be hard on parts lol

I like the idea though, has me thinking about a fun rig from all my extra parts....
Well, there IS a slipper clutch on it but I'll probably toast that and need the SuperShafty upgrade it definitely should be fun though.

My reasoning is I'll need some juice since I'll have to power the motor, two 300+ oz servos, and the 225 on the dig. To be safe may e I'll try 3s first. Lol
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Old 02-13-2012, 10:36 PM   #20
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Well. She's pretty much a roller. I thought I'd share just a couple pics of the big gains I made in getting this thing running.

Kydex front lipo mount. Please note the bend I added to the uppers.



As mentioned, I did have to add a bend to all the uppers for driveshaft clearance. At full flex, there is just enough room for free movement. WB has been shrank back down to 16-3/8".



My second set of universals arrived, so that went in. Also, some OD/UD gears showed face, but I'm too lazy to install them.

Things to do:
- steering linkage (really considering just going VP on that)
- rx & esc install (unsure where I want to place them all)
- wheels!
- body of some sort.
- run it!

Last edited by TSK; 02-14-2012 at 12:32 AM.
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