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Old 12-05-2010, 12:18 PM   #101
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looking good. these should b valuable to the guys running stock rims or small hub sizes that dont have the room for rings. any way u can get the weight out of the rim is a plus!! ill stick to the rings for now. Any updates on the bigger width rings? .200,.300?? running 725 hubs w/ slw v1s i can fit a total of 6 rings er side. ive got 3 now and wanting more!!!
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Old 12-05-2010, 06:41 PM   #102
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looking good. these should b valuable to the guys running stock rims or small hub sizes that dont have the room for rings. any way u can get the weight out of the rim is a plus!! ill stick to the rings for now. Any updates on the bigger width rings? .200,.300?? running 725 hubs w/ slw v1s i can fit a total of 6 rings er side. ive got 3 now and wanting more!!!
They barely clear my .7's. They will not clear stock wheels. They would be great if I were to keep these wheels now. Running the SLW's I should be able to throw more weight on the knuckles though.

I am having some .300's made. I should have a better idea when they will be done the first half of this week.
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Old 12-06-2010, 09:51 PM   #103
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I got my new SLW V4's today. I will let the pictures do the talking....

I want as much weight out of my front wheels and onto the knuckles as possible. I want a total front weight to be the same as my Sedonas and a fully loaded DH wheel
15.5 oz



Well, great news today! Figured out that 8 rings will fit on an SLW with a 725 hub ! Between the knuckle weight and the rings that comes in at 5.9oz per side



Add in the steel ring that I made the other day... And you get 9.5oz per side



So, add in SLW, foam and tire and that came out to 1lb .5oz.




I want to see if I can get away with a 600 hub so I took a ring off per side. Came out to 16oz total. Perfect! If I want to go down in weight I am going to cut some rings and take that .5 oz (or maybe even a whole oz per side) off the top end and leave it all below the axle center line.



Went from 15.5 rolling weight down to 7oz total.






Lots more room for the steel weight on a SLW .7 than my custom .7 DH's



Other pictures I thought might be of interest.









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Old 12-07-2010, 09:51 AM   #104
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Hey eric, I see your running 2lb's in the front. How much weight are you running in the rear wheels. I put 2 knuckle weights, 2 rings, and my pendulum weights in both front wheels, so I was pretty heavy in the front. I had my plastic stock rims on the rear. Being really heavy in the front and really light in the rear, the crawler didn't perform very well, it did really bad on declines. Could you give use some insight on your set up. Mine fully loaded, body, battery, and everthing I'm sitting at 6lbs. That seems heavy to me? I love the weights though, just got to tweek my setup.
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Old 12-07-2010, 01:09 PM   #105
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I wish I were placing better at comps so I could feel better about giving advice....

I run as little weight as possible in the rear. All I have back there is my battery and I am desperately trying to fit that on the front axle also. I have tried many times to run some weight in the rear to try and get it to be stable on downhills. I just cant stand it and always end up light in the rear again. I "FEEL" that mine does not do that well on downhills but I watch at a lot of comps and I am able to go down things a bit better than average IMO. It could be better but I think its a trade off.

I know droop suspension is not popular but its another reason I like it. I have my springs pretty stiff in the rear. This makes it so when I go downhill it keeps my chassis tight and down low. On sprung suspensions its always trying to push your chassis and make you roll.

I think its all give and take. Make it a better climber and it will probably suffer on the down hill. Make it better on the downhill and it will suffer on the climbing. Right now my theory is making my rig work better than most on climbing and side hills. I am willing to suffer on downhills.
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Old 12-07-2010, 02:34 PM   #106
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Update:

Should have more weights no later than mid next week, possibly by this Friday.

The larger rings I have can be made for $20 per set of two

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Old 12-07-2010, 03:10 PM   #107
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now you're starting to get enough weight on there to make a difference. Good work
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Old 12-08-2010, 05:54 PM   #108
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now you're starting to get enough weight on there to make a difference. Good work
Thanks!

Its pretty amazing being able to run such little weight in the wheels.

Running this much weight I have found that it causes the set screw in the knuckle weight and the ring that goes around the weight to loosen up. I didnt want to loc tite the screw and I cannot get much torque on it since the screw and allen wrench is so small. You will find yourself in a world of hurt if you strip that screw or cannot get it out. I am going to be putting in 6-32 set screws in from now on for these reasons. I have been able to get a lot more torque on the screw and would even trust some blue loc tite if I had to.
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Old 12-08-2010, 10:20 PM   #109
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I noticed that lock-tite is not needed on the screws that hold the plates to the hub portion. The lock-tite seemed to be over kill and I started bending allen keys trying to loosen the four screws on each side. I used a small lighter and put a little bit of heat on each screw head and the allen screws backed right out. I think from now on I won't use any lock-tite on the four screws that hold the plates on. I can see how stepping up to a 6-32 screw may be advantagous if you have 6+ weight plates stacked on each side.
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Old 12-09-2010, 12:49 AM   #110
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I noticed that lock-tite is not needed on the screws that hold the plates to the hub portion. The lock-tite seemed to be over kill and I started bending allen keys trying to loosen the four screws on each side. I used a small lighter and put a little bit of heat on each screw head and the allen screws backed right out. I think from now on I won't use any lock-tite on the four screws that hold the plates on. I can see how stepping up to a 6-32 screw may be advantagous if you have 6+ weight plates stacked on each side.
The 4 screws on the face of the weight have not budged on me, just the single one that holds it to the knuckle and the ring that goes on top.
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Old 12-09-2010, 08:09 AM   #111
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one of the things I was wondering is if you could drill two holes and use longer screws to hold the weight on at the same time as holding it the knuckle king pins??
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Old 12-09-2010, 11:32 AM   #112
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I thought about that too but then the screw need to be the EXACT length to hold the weight and contain the kingpins. Its also harder to remove because you would have to remove all your rings off the face first.

This method is solid if a bigger set screw is used.
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Old 12-10-2010, 10:32 AM   #113
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do you think you might ever sell a narrow wheel/weight combo set up package?
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Old 12-10-2010, 10:42 AM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik D_lux View Post
Running this much weight I have found that it causes the set screw in the knuckle weight and the ring that goes around the weight to loosen up. I didnt want to loc tite the screw and I cannot get much torque on it since the screw and allen wrench is so small. You will find yourself in a world of hurt if you strip that screw or cannot get it out. I am going to be putting in 6-32 set screws in from now on for these reasons. I have been able to get a lot more torque on the screw and would even trust some blue loc tite if I had to.
I noticed this problem too. I drilled and tapped my knuckles for a 2nd set screw on the opposite side of the kingpin. I have a zero problems since then and its easier then going to a really big set screw.
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Old 12-10-2010, 02:55 PM   #115
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do you think you might ever sell a narrow wheel/weight combo set up package?
Proably not. Infact, I think I am going to have to remove the package with the two rings. Profit is pretty small on these and VERY expensive to make/stock. Its very possible I could take a loss for making these. I suppose I could go over seas to make them but I am just not willing to do that right now.
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Old 12-10-2010, 02:56 PM   #116
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Originally Posted by Del Monte View Post
I noticed this problem too. I drilled and tapped my knuckles for a 2nd set screw on the opposite side of the kingpin. I have a zero problems since then and its easier then going to a really big set screw.
I will keep that in mind.

After 2+ hrs yesterday nothing came loose with just the 6-32 set screws
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Old 12-13-2010, 07:03 PM   #117
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Good news....

I got some more knuckle weights and I also have a small supply of the .300 wide rings. They turned out pretty sweet!

To reiterate,...

If youre running a wheel that can take a lot of weight the best combo would be 2 .100 wide rings and 1 or 2 .300 wide rings depending on how much you can squeeze on. If you do it this way it will save you quite a bit of money and you will have every combo available from .000 to .800 (with 2 .300 rings).

.300 rings can be found here:

http://www.dluxfab.com/products

I have a VERY limited supply of .300 rings and a small supply of knuckle weights. I have more of everything drizzling in but I need patience until demand slows. These are hard to get a initial stock since there is so much time wrapped into them. I just dont want anybody to miss out on this batch like the last one. First come first serve.

Last edited by Erik D_lux; 08-27-2011 at 10:45 PM.
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Old 12-13-2010, 07:07 PM   #118
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Everybody likes pictures...

.300 wide rings on one side, stack of .100 wide rings on the other.



.700 worth of rings (2-.300 1-.100) that will work with a SLW V1, V4 and a .600 hub



.300 wide rings

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Old 12-13-2010, 08:07 PM   #119
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mine r on the way!! more weight out of the rim. mint
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Old 12-18-2010, 05:48 PM   #120
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Ran the first time today with the knuckle weights and all I have to say is wow !
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