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I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Detroit
Posts: 2,075
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Lets start this off with the reason behind this build... I wanted to build a rig that was capable in 3 classes with just a simple tire change. But i didnt stop there, i wanted to be able to put any scale axle under it without taking any gearing out or putting any in. I found an issue with this as its not as easy to narrow other scale axles on the market with the same pumkin size. though.. maybe in a future rebuild a ssd-lux might happen. but I don't forsee that happening in the near future. Not sure how many cases i will run, but i should be able to switch between losi night crawler axles and ascender axles in less than 10 minutes. So here is the short start to the build. Ill let the pictures talk. The first picture is it complete a year ago with losi axles. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() at this moment im deciding on what stock plastic panhard mount to chose from. trx4 is a more viable option, but I might design one myself and have it printed. Last edited by CM9000; 05-15-2018 at 01:21 PM. |
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I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Detroit
Posts: 2,075
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Cut the trx4 panhard mount to get a better idea where it sits in correlation with axle side mount at ride height.. Looks like i need to 3d print one. Or suck it up an use this one. ![]() Sent from my LGMP260 using Tapatalk |
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![]() | #3 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Detroit
Posts: 2,075
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I have decided to go ahead and use the trx4 mount. putting the mounting location out more away from the chassis would not keep the steering link parallel with the panhard bar. a little update on the electronics I will be using to get this thing to move... motor: trinity 1/8 2000kv 4 pole sensored with adjustable timing. esc: im going to locate a gen 1 or gen 2 rx8 tekin and decase it. servo: probably going to use a high voltage savox monster. I will be using my 1.55 rockbeasts for class 1 and class 0. class 2 tires will be determined at location of my local comps. for its class 2 trim.. I think I will end up running a set of losi lnc axles but narrowed a few mm on each side. more on that maybe in another thread for some axle mod tech. I might even consider using a different bed for class 2.. if I can locate a lc70 bed to modify that is. once I complete it as a roller with all the gearing in place every moving part will be removed. all non moving parts will get painted black with some flat brown dusting. the body will be painted a root beer metallic color with a white strip of some form. a little trick added to the name of the rig. |
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![]() | #4 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Detroit
Posts: 2,075
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Got my work table back in the basement. So now its time to get this truck back on the table. Changed the skid out for a stock og scx10 skid. Recycled a part of a tlt chassis for the rear upper link mount at the chassis. Bad thing about the skid swap.. Gotta make new links for the front and back. Same with the rear upper link as im switching to a 3 link with panhard setup. So trx4 panhard front. Ascender panhard mount rear. Tlt lower link/ chassis spacer for a front upper link and panhard bar! Lucked out on that one. Now on to making my lower links again for the 3rd time. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Last edited by CM9000; 05-07-2018 at 01:54 PM. |
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![]() | #5 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Detroit
Posts: 2,075
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Front and rear complete axle weight with twin hammers rtr tires. Shaped an axle panhard mount out of a tmaxx rear knuckle. And progress weight so far. I think it will weigh in around 6 lbs when complete. I will edit this post on the computer when i reach one. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Last edited by CM9000; 05-15-2018 at 01:22 PM. |
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![]() | #6 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Detroit
Posts: 2,075
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Front and rear links are all just to get the math right. Front upper link is a hair to long. Rear panhard mount axle side needs some shaping. I will drill the holes in the axle when i finalize the link. Funny how spare parts can come together from different brands and years. The motor is where it will sit. The gru connected to it is there for space evaluation and output shaft placement. Im currently working on my gearboxes.. Or tcases rather. Im just waiting on a decent size shipment from boca. Those 2 3s 1050 lipos used to fit in the battery spot friction fit. Now its a little tight. I think the 2 nuts i have behind the front right shock mount are putting a bit much pressure on the outside of the battery case even though i shaved them down plenty. I have also decided to just stick with these ascender axles. So i will probably have this thread moved to vatera ascender section. Untill then, enjoy. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Last edited by CM9000; 05-15-2018 at 01:23 PM. |
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![]() | #7 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Detroit
Posts: 2,075
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I picked up some stuff today to kick this build a bit farther along. ive decided to scrap the rear axle panhard mount and go with a RPM rear bearing carrier for the 4x4 slash and nitro rustler. it has enough meat on it to drill out of the bearing cups to 1/2 inch. I might only have to shave off a couple mm so it can fit in between the rear link mount and the lockout.. also it will bring the mounting point in a little bit more to the chassis so I can have the right length panhard. right now as it sits im waiting on bearings from boca (don't know why this is taking so long) so I can start designing my transfer case and gearboxes for their placement under the bed. im going to start back on bodywork and paint here soon. probably this week to hold me over for awhile. I will also be doing a writeup on what can be done with these axles with ease. including pan hard mount and narrowing more than 12mm. I will also talk a little bit about how my front axle was accomplished. |
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![]() | #8 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: san diego
Posts: 2,723
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The versatility of this rig is super appealing... i dig the shock setup. Its all really nice and the axle narrowing sounds interesting!
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![]() | #9 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Detroit
Posts: 2,075
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Its my first in depth scale build. And the bed work was my first time messing with mek and styrene. Also this was my 3rd attempt at the front axle. Big shoutout to codyboy for the turned down housings. Had to use a rear housing for the front. Sent from my LGMP260 using Tapatalk | |
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![]() | #10 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Detroit
Posts: 2,075
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Some gears, bearings, shafts. Started on the t cases today. Got 3 made up on tinker cad. I will pluck away at the one on the skid tomorrow. ![]() Sent from my LGMP260 using Tapatalk |
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![]() | #11 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Detroit
Posts: 2,075
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My gearboxes are under reconstruction after a few measurements once again. Always double check your maths. Especially if printing through shapeways or if you only have enough materials for a one time go around. Im using 48p 5mm bore pinion gears. ![]() Sent from my LGMP260 using Tapatalk |
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![]() | #12 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Detroit
Posts: 2,075
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Few sneaky peaky. Now i sit and wait for stuff to show up at my doorstep. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Last edited by CM9000; 05-19-2018 at 08:01 PM. |
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![]() | #13 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Corruptifornia
Posts: 12,105
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Sounds interesting but a picture or two would help, I"m not sure how this is going to fit in. Home made transfer case and tranny, nice! Nice bed bob, body mounts with holes through top of body or? I see the SCX10 chassis works good with the trimmed side trays. Nice to have shock adjustment up and down in small increements to get it properly tuned, wish more crawlers had this from the factory. Lots of fairly easy stuff to do with these axles, move the mounts, narrow, leaf springs, etc.! Looking forward to updates and more details about how you did it. ![]() | |
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![]() | #14 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Detroit
Posts: 2,075
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the front of the body has a piece of c channel aluminum that the rails slide into. the rear I chopped off what was left of some rpm offset scx10 body mounts I think. a nut on the inside of the bed and a bolt throught the bottom side. then using revo long rod ends off the 2 aluminum plates on the back of the chassis, I just drilled 2 holes accordingly to center the chassis. im not very good at explaining what I do. so if any questions are asked, im sorry for the not so straight forward answers. at first I just bobbed the bed. I didn't like the way it looked. so I took the same amount out of the front of the bed. right now I have it just finished with some 220 grit sandpaper. probably gonna scuff with a red pad, then re adhere some spots where the body work cracked from a previous hard tumble. cant wait to lay some paint on the body. then my TAZ emblems can be installed. on the other hand, while waiting for my t cases and what not... im still waiting on my final links to be made. just waiting on DLinks to get back from Scale nats in TN. maybe im just blabbling at this point. but for now, just body work/ paint will be getting done. | |
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![]() | #15 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Corruptifornia
Posts: 12,105
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Thanks, was asking about the body mounts, saw your thread about how to narrow axles the way you did it. What did you use for the link mounts on axles after narrowing? They look 3d printed. ![]() |
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![]() | #16 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Detroit
Posts: 2,075
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4th post, 4th picture. body slides onto the frame in the front, then 2 body clips go in the rear. where you see the rod ends sticking out of each side on the chassis under the bed. small little body post there on both sides. ill take a better picture after the bed is painted. and yes, those mounts are 3d printed. everything 3d printed I go through shapeways. the white wheels in the first picture first post, I designed and had 3d printed. I like shapeways lol. |
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![]() | #17 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Detroit
Posts: 2,075
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Just some sanding. On picture of a crack in the tailgate end wont show up. You can see how much styrene i used to fill.. The bed got flat sanded pretty easily before the gluing process. The ends not so much. But.. It cracked where less styrene was used. So that tells me a small story. Scuffing the rest later and might prime tomorrow. Gotta find a metallic brown for a root beer color. Find some clear that will be happy with the basecoat. And find an off white for the stripe of the Tasmanian devil. ![]() ![]() ![]() Last edited by CM9000; 05-26-2018 at 08:43 PM. |
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![]() | #18 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Detroit
Posts: 2,075
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I forgot to fab a rear bumper.. no paint till I do a bumper. gotta figure out design. then maybe try my hand at brazing.
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![]() | #19 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Detroit
Posts: 2,075
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T case, emblems, scale monster cans. ![]() Sent from my LGMP260 using Tapatalk |
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![]() | #20 |
I wanna be Dave ![]() Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Oakridge
Posts: 3,305
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Tags |
1.55, 1.9, axle, narrowed, yota |
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