rob_b hits the trails

[rob_b]

I'll get up on my soap box for a minute here concerning part strength.

First I used to think just that, stronger is always better. But through the years of designing stuff for work I know that the whole system must be designed to work together in order to maximize performance (strength). It makes little sense to build the strongest bracket ever only to bolt it to something weak and flimsy. The weaker part will fail. Even doing FEA on simple parts you will quickly realize that some areas of your part are too strong and cause undue stress on weaker area of the same part. In that case you can start taking meat out of the strong area and end up with a stronger part overall. You don't necessarily have to add strength to the weak area. You could also design one part to be an easily replaceable fuse so to speak. Obviously I'm no engineer but feel I have a pretty solid grasp on decent design.

Steps down...

That being said. The tower is far stronger than the diff housing so I must be on something Delrin

[Pockets70]

Delrin or Kydex would work! Except for the camber links...definitely stick with your AL ones.

[kookie31]

^Agreed!

[killswitch]

I don't know how I didn't see this thread before... Looks good. I knew you couldn't stay away from RCing for forever.

[photon_trap]

Personally, I would for sure - even a small brace would make it much stronger, and the way I drive I need all the strength I can get... but that's just me.
Having to change out a Diff carrier housing is a PITA

Originally Posted by LS1Armyboy

any way to add some supporting structure to some of the extra unused holes on the diff case?

[rob_b]

Originally Posted by punkfan

rob is like your 8th grade girl friend, you get a glimpse of the goods but you never get to touch them.

Sounds like a personal problem

Originally Posted by SkaldidDog

heavenly seventy-five.

Nice! I love it.

Originally Posted by killswitch

I knew you couldn't stay away from RCing for forever.

I've had RC in my blood for far to long to hang up my hat forever. Just needed a little break to tool up!

Originally Posted by photon_trap

even a small brace would make it much stronger

I'll see what I can come up with.

[rob_b]

I feel like making some wheels. Damn project ADHD. Nothing new and not very exciting... Beam locks; Delrin hoop, .125 7075 rings and slw hubs. Got a tip from the great Travis C. for G6 wheel and tire setup a few years back. No vents and put a little bulge in the tire when locking down the last ring. Tire and foam still act correctly but water can not be added to the equation.

[photon_trap]

why did you choose 7075?
nice looking design

[rob_b]

Thanks. Because I have a lot of it laying around. My last comp truck had .062" 7075 wheel faces similar to these and they held up ok. These will have .080" spokes when they are done.

[rob_b]

v1.1

All 2mm hardware
Modified SLW hubs
Pain in the ass mounting method

[rob_b]

Some days are rough when you fly by the seat of your pants. Tried some new stuff and learned a few things to not do. Left a drill and a tap in my fixture because of it. Lol

Something like this though...

[grunt95]

WOW the wheels looks great! well wheel looks great! Are the wheels sealed or are they open in the center cant really tell.

[rob_b]

Thanks. It's just the ring sitting on the wheel. Haven't worked on the hoop programming yet but they will be sealed.

[Pockets70]

Dig it as just a ring. Make the center a circular opening instead of a SLW mount and sell them as just rings. If it's for a complete wheel, you'd need to have the hex surface at least 1/2" deep. Mounting a SLW directly to the face will make for too much negative offset (unless those hubs are 475's). If that ring is 7075, do a thru-hole cut on the recessed portions of each spoke. Lightens up the ring and would make a killer look IMO.

[rob_b]

Or delete the wheel nut... lol

[Pockets70]

Grub screw through the pin slot?

[rob_b]

Kind of. It's a Traxxas driveshaft pin.

[Pockets70]

Could you do Delrin rims with that beadlock? I'd still suggest using SLW hubs. How about something like a Cragar Soft-8 or M/T Classic III.

[SkaldidDog]

Pain in the ass mounting method no doubt.



J

[rob_b]

As much as I hate to do it I'm going to just do the wheel all 4-40 and make it 100% slw hub compatible. Going to finalize the design and program it tomorrow. Really want to run this truck at the AZ Shootout in Prescott in two months. Got to keep building and keep telling myself that I can always revisit an area later. Four link will be next...