No Drift Winch Controller! (using 3 position transmitter channel)

[hph]

You've got PM for purchase og 3 pcs. We will test these in Norwegian climate!!!

[heyok]

Originally Posted by hph

You've got PM for purchase og 3 pcs. We will test these in Norwegian climate!!!

That's what I like to read! Thanks for wanting to try out my electronics!
You should have a PM waiting for you now.
Al

[hph]

Thanks for a quick response!

[Jose C]

Heyok, these work great! Thanks.

[tazman]

I just wanted to let everyone know what type of person/vendor heyok is. He took my money and delivered a great product. Without reading all the posts in this thread, I installed it in my servo and promtly burned up the winch controller he sent me. I messed up by installing it directly to the BEC. Big mistake as that is how it burned up the controller. With no questions, Al sent me a new one. This is the type of vendor/person that will always have my business and praise. Thank you for the support to the buyer, Al. It is greatly appreciated.

[heyok]

Thanks for the kind words Larry!
It's you customers that are the important ones, I don't want to screw that up.
Al

[bob1961]

so your controller takes the place of two resistors one would solder in place of the pot switch on servo board, by eliminating the servo board totally and just solder the two wires from your controler to the servo motor itself.........bob

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[bob1961]

Originally Posted by heyok

The other day someone wanted to use my controller to operate both a front and rear winch. He wanted a three position toggle switch (with center off) and JST connectors to power his 3Racing (I think) winchs.

This is what it looks like:

ok now i like this....i will have two winches on my truck by summer and have a 3 way switch from da shack to control both with one channel....plus my thought is to stop servo creap by turning power off the the servos untill i need either one....is this a controller that does what i want.........bob

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[heyok]

Originally Posted by bob1961

so your controller takes the place of two resistors one would solder in place of the pot switch on servo board, by eliminating the servo board totally and just solder the two wires from your controler to the servo motor itself.........bob

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You can actually remove the pot entirely. The voltage divider that you would make from the two resisters would not be needed either. My circuit (as described way back in the first post) replaces the original servo amplifier circuit and its output solders to the servo motor.

Originally Posted by bob1961

ok now i like this....i will have two winches on my truck by summer and have a 3 way switch from da shack to control both with one channel....plus my thought is to stop servo creap by turning power off the the servos untill i need either one....is this a controller that does what i want.........bob

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I'm not sure what you want from me in this statement. You mention providing your own parts to operate two winches and eliminate creep, then you ask if you want my product. What would you like me to comment on?

[bob1961]

what i was trying to say is i have the 3 way switch to switch between front/rear winch....when i don't need either winch power will be cut to the winches in middle off postion on switch....that is how i was gonna solve my servo drift i have now even though i glued my pot switch....the picture i used in quote of the switch will do same thing is my thought, yes/no.........bob

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[bob1961]

ok i re read what was said and he made the 3 way switch with one of your controls ....so i'll need two of your controlers to use in front and rear servo winches or make what he did with one of your controlers....i'll just have to run wires to each servo from switch and controler .......bob

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[TEDROCKZ]

Originally Posted by bob1961

the picture i used in quote of the switch will do same thing is my thought, yes/no.........bob....

Yes! This controller will let you run either front or rear winch, one at a time, with one 3 position(on-off-on) channel. Front or rear operation depends on the position of the toggle switch. All with the no-drift drift feature.

[heyok]

Originally Posted by TEDROCKZ

Yes! This controller will let you run either front or rear winch, one at a time, with one 3 position(on-off-on) channel. Front or rear operation depends on the position of the toggle switch. All with the no-drift drift feature.

You have it right.

By the way, I made what you see in the picture:


I can build you one too if you like. Just send me a PM and we can work it out.

[KBrog]

Id like to buy a winch cotroller. Here's the but. The stock 3Racing controller burt up. So I made one from a old MG995 servo. It worked for a few minutes, got hot and burt. Same thing with the 3rd attempt.

I need a controller but dont want to burn it up in less than a minute. I have checked my BEC voltage with a Fluke meter. It is 6V. I have hooked the winch directly to a battery and it works in both directions. Everything else on the rig works fine. It has me stuped.

Thought maybe you could help. Its OK if you cant. I still need a controller after I get it figured out, and this will be the one I get.

[heyok]

Hi, it sounds like you are on the right track.
If you know how, maybe you can measure the current draw of the winch when it is running and let me know. It will probably be only a couple of hundred milliamps or so when it is unloaded, but if you find it is drawing a lot (when it is unloaded) the winch motor could be faulty, so let me know what you find.

[KBrog]

I dont really know how to check that. I did hook the winch directly to a 2S lipo and checked volts DC. It was 7.54v and checked amps DC. It was 2.26 with no load and did not change even at a almost stalling load.

[heyok]

Originally Posted by KBrog

I dont really know how to check that. I did hook the winch directly to a 2S lipo and checked volts DC. It was 7.54v and checked amps DC. It was 2.26 with no load and did not change even at a almost stalling load.

If the winch draws 2.26A with no load, it is a safe bet that the winch motor is broken. It would be getting really hot.

Now, if you think that maybe you didn't measure the current properly, it could be that the 2.26 number is wrong.

You can measure current like this:
Put the meter in the 10A scale. Move the probes so they can measure current (often the red probe will plug into a different port so that it can measure current).
Connect Pos of batt to winch, other wire of winch to red meter probe. Connect black meter probe to Neg of batt.
The motor will get power through the meter and you will see the current draw on the display.

[KBrog]

Awesome! Thanks for the help. I got much better results doing the way you described. Checked it again at 7.54v with no load it was 32.7. With a load it spiked as high as 199.0 on the meter. I checked the motor running it in both directions. Sounds like the motor is OK. May just have to order a controller and try it.

Originally Posted by heyok

If the winch draws 2.26A with no load, it is a safe bet that the winch motor is broken. It would be getting really hot.

Now, if you think that maybe you didn't measure the current properly, it could be that the 2.26 number is wrong.

You can measure current like this:
Put the meter in the 10A scale. Move the probes so they can measure current (often the red probe will plug into a different port so that it can measure current).
Connect Pos of batt to winch, other wire of winch to red meter probe. Connect black meter probe to Neg of batt.
The motor will get power through the meter and you will see the current draw on the display.

[heyok]

Good that it worked out for you.
Just send me a PM with your email address when you are ready to order and I will send you a Paypal invoice.

[OGmicromonster]

I'm gonna have to get one of these soon.