Tommy R's TTC Build - "Big Oly"

[BOWTIE]

looking good tommy!!!

would like to see it on the 25th.

[Tommy R]

Thanks, Ric. I sure hope to have it done by then! Ideally, it'll be competing. If it's not done, I'll still bring it out anyway....

[BOWTIE]

Originally Posted by Tommy R

Thanks, Ric. I sure hope to have it done by then! Ideally, it'll be competing. If it's not done, I'll still bring it out anyway....

cool deal man .. i think i have the only other 2.2 to compete against.

hopefully we will get more signed up as the date gets near.

[Grizzly4x4]

Originally Posted by Tommy R

Thanks, Chris! Yeah, I think it'll be fine. I gotta tell ya, I have so much MORE respect for the likes of you and Tim and your abilities after undertaking this build. So many things to consider, so many unforeseen challenges, and so much time required. My Jeep pales in comparison to the amount of work I've put into this thing so far....and it's maybe 1/2 done??

Thanks for the good words. It is hard to understand the work involved until you try to build something completely custom. Trying to plan for just the right clearances, fit, and look.

I've spent the last 2 weeks cutting off front winch mounts/grills trying to get the look I want and have built 2 sheet metal fuel cells but still don't like the looks.

[Tommy R]

No kidding! It's like trying to solve an equation with an infinite number of variables. You just have to bite the bullet and start somewhere.

I finally decided on a paint scheme for the truck and as a result, I'm getting impatient to get this thing finished up and running. I don't want to cut any corners, but I really want this thing operational. I'm starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel now. I feel like I'm finally making decent progress again and I'm hoping to continue that momentum. Last night I tackled another obstacle that's been looming over my head......the front bumper. Been wrestling with this one for weeks.

My initial thought was to have a bolt-on front bumper with some tubework for radiator protection and no stinger. In the end, I did the opposite of all those things. I didn't want to built a radiator hoop 'cause I'm not sure the nose of the truck will remain full width. Eventually it may get doved to allow full steering at full stuff. And with the leaf spring hangers in the way it became more challenging to have the bumper be a bolt-on. I'm still not sure of the stinger, but I want something for the winch hook to attach to.

So I knocked out this simple winch mount. All I plan to add to it is some tubing to act as a winch guard, but it may end up being a small stinger. Simple? Boring? Yes, but it's functional. With the leaf springs sticking so far in front of the truck, I'm trying to keep it fairly minimal up front for a better approach angle. So I cut up some 1.5 x 0.5 rectangular tubing and ended up with this. Note I had to cut the sides and bend them up to follow the contour of the frame rails while maintaining a flat mounting surface for the winch. Note the spring hangers aren't bolted up in the pic.



Hopefully after work I'll get it finished up....

[Tommy R]

Finished the stinger/winch mount....


And added a little more triangulation in the rear.


An overall shot.


And a profile shot.

[Tommy R]

Got the steering servo mounted up using the mount that came with the RC Bros. leaf spring kit. Still have to make a drag link, but that's no biggie. I also installed some wheel wideners for another 1" of total track width.

Tonight I did a little re-assembly to see what other brazing work I want to do before moving on. Here's a progress shot showing the overall status of the truck. The rear is artificially weighted down. Eventually, it'll get softer springs. I'm thinking the rear could use another 1/4"-1/2" of stretch.


Servo and both front shocks installed.


I've got a bit of a dilemma on the front end, however. The front tires are all up into the grill. Here the truck is at ride height with NO added weight at full lock. The tire is already into the grill. At full stuff it lifts the body a good 1/2" or so. In other words, quite a bit of interference...


I think I've got three options on how to deal with this.
1. Move the headlights closer to the center and trim the lexan to allow the tire some clearance. This may look a little odd.
2. Do away with the front headlights and trim as needed. Maybe add light buckets to the front bumper or something.
3. Dovetail it. Not sure I could pull it off cleanly and without the rear being doved, it may look odd.

Thoughts?

Total flex now is approximately one tire's height, which is good considering the lack of weight. I may restrict it some. But here's some flex shots for the heck of it.

[Grizzly4x4]

Originally Posted by Tommy R

I've got a bit of a dilemma on the front end, however. The front tires are all up into the grill. Here the truck is at ride height with NO added weight at full lock. The tire is already into the grill. At full stuff it lifts the body a good 1/2" or so. In other words, quite a bit of interference...


I think I've got three options on how to deal with this.
1. Move the headlights closer to the center and trim the lexan to allow the tire some clearance. This may look a little odd.
2. Do away with the front headlights and trim as needed. Maybe add light buckets to the front bumper or something.
3. Dovetail it. Not sure I could pull it off cleanly and without the rear being doved, it may look odd.

Thoughts?

Same issue I had with Guido before and it got worse when I pushed the axle forward. I was able to trim away the outer part of the grill and put in smaller light buckets. Similar to your idea #2. I got the idea from JR's 1:1 Bronco.
The front clip of Guido is narrowed now with a full width rear end. It looks a bit odd at first but I think it looks good still. I'd say it's a good option.

The body looks pretty well balanced with the wheelbase right now but the rear looks like a little more stretch would look good. I know that pictures add a weird effect though. However much you decide to stretch the rear just try and keep it balanced with the front stretch.

Stinger and tube work are looking good.

[Tommy R]

Thanks, Chris... I didn't realize Guido was doved up front. You must've done a good job on it! I'm actually thinking of reducing the amount of flex this truck has plus it's too soft up front. The front bottoms out well before the rear and that's not what I want for this truck. So maybe with some stiffer springs (add-a-leafs?) and some bumpstops it'll be okay? Here's a "body on" shot of the interference. Not horrible, but definitely should be better.


I made a little more progress tonight. First of all I had to rebuild the high steer arm so I could get all the throw from the steering. It's much better now and it has a drag link, too! ;)




And at full bump.


The last thing I did was braze some nuts to the chassis for body mounts. Two on the side and one on the rear. They hold it so well that I'm not planning on adding any more.

[War Pig]

Looks great Tommy, nice job on the steering arm! Looks like you're getting close to paint. How about putting some internal compression springs in the shocks? That would help out with the front flexing and bottoming quite so much.

[Grizzly4x4]

Originally Posted by Tommy R

Thanks, Chris... I didn't realize Guido was doved up front. You must've done a good job on it!

It's not doved in that picture, I doved it for the rebuild I'm doing now. Just wanted to clarify.

Nice job on setting up the suspension and steering. I love the perfect fit of the drag link between the frame and the leaf spring.

[Tommy R]

Thanks, Tim. Yeah, it's getting close to paint. I may have a few more things to braze on beforehand, but I could leave it as-is and it wouldn't break my heart. Thanks for bringing up the internal spring idea! While sitting in the garage tonight starring at this thing, that thought popped into my head and just that quickly it was forgotten! I think I'm getting tired or something. I think I actually have some internal springs so I'll try that out real soon....

I also need to get on the ball making my control arms. The drag link is the only arm that is ready to go. I think all the other have yet to be made. As of now, most are mock-ups. Of course, they'll be aluminum. I'm not a fan of delrin links on scalers.

I've got a Jeep club meeting tomorrow night so not sure if I'll have any progress pics, but we'll see....

[Tommy R]

Originally Posted by Grizzly4x4

It's not doved in that picture, I doved it for the rebuild I'm doing now. Just wanted to clarify.

Nice job on setting up the suspension and steering. I love the perfect fit of the drag link between the frame and the leaf spring.

Gotcha! And thanks! I was hoping to not hack the frame where the drag link goes under it and it just barely worked out.

[recover1227]

not only is your jeep awesome but your scalers are too. im jealous

BTW its AlTheKiller from JF

[Tommy R]

Originally Posted by recover1227

not only is your jeep awesome but your scalers are too. im jealous

BTW its AlTheKiller from JF

Hey man! Nice to see another 1:1 face around here. Thanks for the compliments, but this rig still has quite a ways to go.

You should also check out TXRCRCA.com for some local events and get togethers. We've got a scale comp here in Austin in two weeks.

[recover1227]

Awesome thanks for the link!

cant say ill run my junk in it but im definitely going to check it out and probably bring my photo gear

[Tommy R]

Originally Posted by recover1227

Awesome thanks for the link!

cant say ill run my junk in it but im definitely going to check it out and probably bring my photo gear

Most of the time we just have informal get togethers where everyone just brings their scalers out. But we try to have a competition every month or so.

[Tommy R]

Ran into a big problem tonight.

First of all, I made some sliders and stretched the wheelbase ~1/2" to 13.5" total with some longer rear links. I like the wheelbase now. It's got the look I want. And the sliders came out fine, too. They were simple enough...




The problem is with the rear driveshaft. It's just a wee bit short. The front is not much better and may bind or pop loose under load.


The driveshaft is supposed to be good to 5.90". It's not long enough anymore. But when I looked at the shaft, it appears that at 5.90", there isn't exactly a lot of engagement. Feels very loose. The same holds true for the front shaft which is supposed to be good to 4.72". Sorry for the crappy pics. Had the wrong macro setting.




I could move the trans rearward, but I don't want to. It'll screw up my weight balance and make it harder to put in an interior. I'm rather disappointed to say the least. Looks like I paid $80 for these driveshafts and neither one really works for my application. Anyone interested in buying them at a discount? PM me...

Looks like I need to order up some new, longer ones tomorrow. Mo' money, mo' money, mo' money....

[team3six]

I had the same issue with my truck. RC4WD does sell longer shafts.
Dont do like I did and get the longer MIP shaft. I cut it a 1/4 inch short and realized that the splice teeth in the female part doesnt go all the way through.

thats the longest you need extended. I'll make some calls

[Tommy R]

Thanks, Norm... I actually would've gotten MIP because I like their much slimmer profile, but RC4WD are the only ones long enough....well, almost! I just checked their site and it looks like the next longer shaft goes up to 6.5" which will work for the rear.

For the front, however, the 90-120mm is on the short side. I guess I could use the rear shaft up front just cut the female end shorter to get the length I need. I hate to think that's what it'll take, but I don't see a better option.