4PK Setups, Tips, Tricks and Help

[Harley]

Originally Posted by tcabner

Huge thanks to Harley for posting up the guides for programming the 4PK.

The 4PK is an amazing radio that is definitely worth the price difference between it and something like a DX3R. As far as overall features, they're not even close, the 4PK is so much more capable and built MUCH better, not to mention more reliable.

No problem and glad you like it!

[dboy1k]

sorry to bug u on this but is there anyway that i can start over from square 1 my car is doing some crazy stuff right now

[Harley]

Originally Posted by dboy1k

sorry to bug u on this but is there anyway that i can start over from square 1 my car is doing some crazy stuff right now

Just go to the model reset (M-RES) option.

[dboy1k]

got it working but now when i push the ps1 it goes in to a crab walk.
is there any way to reverse the rear servo so when i push the ps1 it turns correctly

[dboy1k]

i think i got it
insted of having it on th i have it on steering
YOU ARE THE MAN

[Harley]

Originally Posted by dboy1k

i think i got it
insted of having it on th i have it on steering
YOU ARE THE MAN

Glad it worked out, hope the instructions were clear enough.

Let me know if you ever need anything else on the radio

[792.5cj5]

I just got the 4pk and wow. I'm coming from a modded tq3 and this thing is crazy. I hope I can figure it all out. I can see that just 1 battery is not going to do it, so what is the best and longest lasting battery to go with--link please. And is it ok to work it with the charger plugged up to it? Anymore word on the skins for it and how has them?

Thanks

[CRSMacgyver]

Originally Posted by 792.5cj5

I just got the 4pk and wow. I'm coming from a modded tq3 and this thing is crazy. I hope I can figure it all out. I can see that just 1 battery is not going to do it, so what is the best and longest lasting battery to go with--link please. And is it ok to work it with the charger plugged up to it? Anymore word on the skins for it and how has them?

Thanks

Chris, if you have to charge it through the radio I think you need to stick with the stock one....it takes forever to charge that way.

I use the Trinity 2100mah LiFe pack (TRI20231) and charge it with my 0606i charger. That is the pack I would recommend. They do not make the old 2100mah LiPo pack anymore.......

Matt at Anderson can get the pack for you at a good price if you want to get it local. That is where I got mine from.

[Boogie]

I heard you can cycle the stock battery a few times and it'll help a little. For those that have, what discharge and charge rate are you guys cycling yours?

[792.5cj5]

Originally Posted by CRSMacgyver

Chris, if you have to charge it through the radio I think you need to stick with the stock one....it takes forever to charge that way.

I use the Trinity 2100mah LiFe pack (TRI20231) and charge it with my 0606i charger. That is the pack I would recommend. They do not make the old 2100mah LiPo pack anymore.......

Matt at Anderson can get the pack for you at a good price if you want to get it local. That is where I got mine from.

The trinity life pack--does it have a balance port and what type? Does it last longer? I don't have a quality charger yet-just a 12v e-sky blance charger. I really just want a back-up pack. It is possible to get a regular battery box for it to take like AA's right. Has anyone used this? How fast does it go through them?

Thanks

[CRSMacgyver]

Originally Posted by 792.5cj5

The trinity life pack--does it have a balance port and what type? Does it last longer? I don't have a quality charger yet-just a 12v e-sky blance charger. I really just want a back-up pack. It is possible to get a regular battery box for it to take like AA's right. Has anyone used this? How fast does it go through them?

Thanks

It is an Align style balance plug. Mine lasts a lot longer.

Give me a shout. I will work you a deal on the stock pack I have so i can get another 2100 if you want......

[jason]

For anyone that is on the fence with this radio, let me tell you this thing is the real deal.

I have it setup on my berg 2.2 rig and the control that it allows me to have is just awesome, I love being able to just dial the motors exactly where I want them.

I've also set this radio up with my Shortcourse HPI Blitz, and have been playing with the ABS setup. At last nights race with the ABS setup dialed in I was able to pick up 2 more full laps per heat over my old setup.

I also got an email this morning from Corey at RPP Hobby letting me know they have the 4pk's in stock and ready to ship for a crazy low price! I think with his low price we're going to see a lot more of these radios showing up at comps.

http://www.rpphobby.com/ProductDetai...tCode=FUTK4900
You have to add it to your cart to see the price.

[Harley]

Originally Posted by jason

I also got an email this morning from Corey at RPP Hobby letting me know they have the 4pk's in stock and ready to ship for a crazy low price! I think with his low price we're going to see a lot more of these radios showing up at comps.

http://www.rpphobby.com/ProductDetai...tCode=FUTK4900
You have to add it to your cart to see the price.

Thanks for posting the link Jason, I would much rather refer someone to a vendor that supports us

[engineerjoe]

Originally Posted by jason

For anyone that is on the fence with this radio, let me tell you this thing is the real deal.

I have it setup on my berg 2.2 rig and the control that it allows me to have is just awesome, I love being able to just dial the motors exactly where I want them.

I've also set this radio up with my Shortcourse HPI Blitz, and have been playing with the ABS setup. At last nights race with the ABS setup dialed in I was able to pick up 2 more full laps per heat over my old setup.

The racing functions are amazing on this radio.

I use the brake travel adjustment on the course with my slash to make adjustments for changing track conditions. The throttle accel function is great for blasting out of corners too.

I adjust the amount of mixing on the fly for my 51" gas powered boat to counteract propwalk. It keeps it going straight at idle or at 47mph.

This radio really does make me look like a better driver than I am.

[John Galbreath Jr.]

Okay, getting close on mine. Here are the specs and issues:

4PK set up to Harleys Ultimate MOA settings
dual FX-R
CC-BEC
HS-7950TH

About every third time I pull the throttle in forward, it does nothing, I pull it again, works perfect.

When I roll the dial for more front wheel speed, I get more rear wheel speed. On this same wheel, I would like it to stop at 0 rather than go into negative numbers, when it goes negative very strange things happen!

Do the wheels have to be locked in dig, or is there a freewheel I have not figured out yet.

I am reading the forum and the books looking for my answers, but I figured someone online may can point me in the right direction.

[wrightcs77]

Originally Posted by John Galbreath Jr.

Okay, getting close on mine. Here are the specs and issues:

4PK set up to Harleys Ultimate MOA settings
dual FX-R
CC-BEC
HS-7950TH

About every third time I pull the throttle in forward, it does nothing, I pull it again, works perfect.

When I roll the dial for more front wheel speed, I get more rear wheel speed. On this same wheel, I would like it to stop at 0 rather than go into negative numbers, when it goes negative very strange things happen!
The dial adjusts the rear wheel speed, not the fronts.
There is no way I know of to stop the dial at 0, you should never really need to go below 50, probably even 70

Do the wheels have to be locked in dig, or is there a freewheel I have not figured out yet.
My wheels are always locked in dig. But, if you want freewheel with front dig, you can use the dial to get rid of most of the rear drive, similar to a freewheel, though not exactly a freewheel.

I am reading the forum and the books looking for my answers, but I figured someone online may can point me in the right direction.

Hope that helps some.

[Harley]

Originally Posted by John Galbreath Jr.

About every third time I pull the throttle in forward, it does nothing, I pull it again, works perfect.

When I roll the dial for more front wheel speed, I get more rear wheel speed. On this same wheel, I would like it to stop at 0 rather than go into negative numbers, when it goes negative very strange things happen!

Do the wheels have to be locked in dig, or is there a freewheel I have not figured out yet.

I am reading the forum and the books looking for my answers, but I figured someone online may can point me in the right direction.

Is your display showing the bar graphs moving when you pull the trigger but nothing happens? Battery voltage in the car is good?

The setup is done to adjust rear motor speed not front motor. Like wrights said, there is really never any benefit to go below 50 or 60 percent.

Varing the amount of rear wheel power is what you do to simulate a freewheel. Reduce the power so that it isn't overpowering and trying to turn you over. The slight power is even better than shafty freewheel

[John Galbreath Jr.]

Originally Posted by Harley0706

Is your display showing the bar graphs moving when you pull the trigger but nothing happens? Battery voltage in the car is good?

The setup is done to adjust rear motor speed not front motor. Like wrights said, there is really never any benefit to go below 50 or 60 percent.

Varing the amount of rear wheel power is what you do to simulate a freewheel. Reduce the power so that it isn't overpowering and trying to turn you over. The slight power is even better than shafty freewheel

Yes, the bar graphs move when it does not, all three lines show.

My dial is adjusting the FRONT wheel speed, not the rear. But, my buttons are controlling the correct axles.

FYI and maybe it will help. When I first hooked everything up the front axle turned backwards and the rear turned forward. So, I reversed the front motor leads by re-sordering them.

I read on the FX-R, that there is a set up:

LED:5 Brake/reverse type, where is talks about locking out reverse for one second. Is it possible I have something wrong whre my forward is reverse, even though my trigger is operating properly.

Edit: I have verified it is running in reverse. I cured my stall in forward by removing the one second delay for reverse. Now, I jsut have tofigure out how to fix it.

This thing is a blast, just finished running a battery pack threw it. Charging and reading now.

[Harley]

So you have the dials doing the front and the DT button doing the rear? Although you can do this I don't suggest it. It just makes getting the front and rear axles to an even point twice the work. Not quite sure what advantage you are trying to achieve unless it is to get more overdrive out of the rear motors.

[John Galbreath Jr.]

Originally Posted by Harley0706

So you have the dials doing the front and the DT button doing the rear? Although you can do this I don't suggest it. It just makes getting the front and rear axles to an even point twice the work. Not quite sure what advantage you are trying to achieve unless it is to get more overdrive out of the rear motors.

I have the Push switch 1 (PS1) turning on/off the rear. The Push switch 2 (PS2) in the handle turning on/off the front. Just like in your instructions.

I am not trying to do anything different than your instructions. I have the dials DL1 and DL2 and the DT3 (You did DT1, but I left that one for steering trim) all doing the same thing.

These are the settings:

DL1: PM2-B: 10 / NOR
DL2: PM2-B: 10 / NOR
DT3: PM2-B: 10 / NOR

However. My settings are controlling the wrong axle. I think I have the motors running on the reverse side as changing the reverse delay in the FX-R fixed my front stalling problem.

Is there a way to change is so reverse is forward, and forward is reverse? Then I can re-sorder both motors and see where I am then.

I am new at this, so sorry if I am not making sense, I got the 1:1 stuff down!!

Also, just lost a small part off the Newage axle. It is the brass bushing out of the knuckle, guess I'll head to the hobby shop. Hopefully that is a common part. Otherwise, guess I am down. No, I did not have it lock-tighted. Guess I need to go back and do that to all the bolts!!!!!!

Thanks again for your assistance.