Official Novak Crawler Products Thread

[skullking]

Hey will a regular 540 pinion work with the 380 brushless mongoose motor??

[Charlie]

Indeed. It's normal 1/8 size. Just a bit short.

[hutsontr]

I have the Novak Rooster ESC and 55T Pro motor. I know you can't run more than a two cell lipo through the esc, but what mAh/C rating will give me an equal amount of run time and wheel speed?

[MR.VERTICAL]

I just like to say Thax to NOVAK for there M2 been running it now for about a year love this thing PS. Charlie you the MAN here the M2 doing work

[Charlie]

THANKS MR. V~! Good Luck This Season!

[j22]

Dose anyone know why i don't have rear drag brake. I have the goat 3s just need a little info thanks

[concretejungle]

Originally Posted by j22

Dose anyone know why i don't have rear drag brake. I have the goat 3s just need a little info thanks

do you have the link to hook it to your computer so you can set it?

[Axial95]

I have a Novak 3S ESC with the Ballistic motor, it runs for a little while and then starts blinking red and green, what is the cause of that and how can I correct it? Thanks

[Charlie]

Csuangka@teamnovak.com

Thanks!

[Charlie-III]

Originally Posted by Charlie

Csuangka@teamnovak.com

Thanks!

Does this mean it's a warranty issue, thus no need to post a reply??

[Denus]

Originally Posted by Charlie

Howdy Guys,

Thanks for all the kind comments. Much appreciated and you're all VERY welcome.

Ron- I think you emailed me and I replied today. You pointed out some items here that you didn't in the email. Be sure you do the One Touch Setup.

Email me about he Orig Super Sport Crawler Charlie@teamnovak.com I'll explain. Too much for this.

We get Gmail no problem. So if your hotmail bounce's you can whip up a gmail in a hurry.

I try to get on the forums, but it gets busy, so don't be offended if none of us answer for a few days, just email. I check emails before the forums most times.

Thanks again guys!

Charlie

Hi Charlie,

I purchased a RC4WD 3 speed, a Futuba 4PL and a Goat 3s Ballistic.
Everything is brand new, also the servos and the 2c 3400 battery.


I couldn't make the car run for more than a few meters in two days.
It's like the ESC is losing his mind every 5 minutes. (yes, the 5 steps setup has been completed several times)
Or it doesn't react at all, or it would suddenly spin up like crazy and then stop again. I'm lucky the gearbox didn't broke yet (that part cost $ 250!).

The receiver has been placed as far as possible from the ESC, but that didn't make any differences.

I even had to put the BEC in place (on a 7.6v battery!) to avoid issues with the receiver and the servos, otherwhise, it was not even capable to move. But the BEC is getting quite hot though, I could even smell it.

No use to go on like this, I'm a little disgusted right now.
So for me, it has not been much fun to have this kit...

I wrote an email for help but received this message:

SMTP error from remote mail server after RCPT TO:<Charlie@teamnovak.com>:
host teamnovak.com.s7a1.psmtp.com [64.18.6.14]:
550 No such user - psmtp

I'm really thinking about purchasing a Tekin FX-R with a brushed motor right now.

[Charlie]

charlie@teamnovak.com is a very old email from a few years back.

csuangka@teamnovak.com or tech@teamnovak.com both come directly to my phone, tablet, laptop, desktop.... I think my ears burn when I get an email.


I think you've emailed me already though, so thanks!

[BigFish]

Brand New LCC (new 6/2011)
Goat 3s and 21.5 turn Ballistic Brushless motor
15T pinion
Factory everything else
3s 35c 1300mah Holmes Hobbies lipo
CC bec at 6.0 volts from Holmes Hobbies
Spektrum Dx3c and sr300 rx
Hitec 7950 steering servo
Losi msx12 dig servo

This is an extremely common setup. I've got about 5 battery cycles through in just testing and tuning the rig. It has performed flawlessly; up until tonight. It has been sitting for about 2 months, and I finally got some rovers to try, so I got it out and decided to do some couch crawling...lol. It started glitching/cogging real bad. The red led on
the esc would blink, in both forward and reverse, and the truck would not go anywhere. I checked all connections, sensor cable and all. Everything looked good. Tried another battery (have 2 of the same hh batteries). Same issue. I then did the 1 step programming about 5-6 times. Still no luck. Now when you power up the esc, the blue and amber LEDs stay on and if you give the truck any throttle, it will make a high pitch whine. I made sure to turn the truck off immediately and unhook the battery to prevent any damage. This Goat has been good to me, but after looking on the forum, it seems there are alot of issues like this. Do you have any suggestions? or do I need to send the esc and motor in?

This being said the mongoose in my MRC is still doing great

[concretejungle]

I'm going to say bad mofset on the ESC. Send it back cause it's toast.

[BigFish]

That's what I was afraid of... Too much money for it not to work...

[Charlie]

Got your email,Thanks.

[DasFriek]

Sadly, I may have found the answer to a few of the last posts with erratic operation with odd lock-ups and esc lights going blue/white. My truck would roll fine on flat ground but once it flexed it would just "lock-up" and do nothing but still show a red light that corresponded with transmitter input. Then it started going to the blue and white lights and not even do anything.

Check your motor sensor wires at the esc plug. My Goat 3 is less than 1 month old and never even been outside of my house and i started having these issues and luckily i have a decent EE background.
Mine had two broken wires where the plugs pin is crimped on to the wire. This couldn't be seen visually as the wires insulation remained intact, The wire just snapped inside.
To test for this is when your truck acts up wiggle the motor sensor wire where it plugs into the esc and push down on it a bit also.
Next is to take a sewing needle out and individually pull each wire out of the plug and test each wire with the continuity function on a multi meter, One probe on the metal pin and the other back on the same corresponding wire as it enters the motor. Bend and wiggle the wire to make sure its fully intact.

If Novak wants to send me a new sensor wire they can, But i trust my fix better than a new wire.
Im a computer guy as a hobby also and found some old connectors and i soldered them on to some better flexible silicone multi-strand wire and then plugged that into the esc's pins and wrapped them in electrical tape so they dont short out on each other since i eliminated the plug and socket all together. I did save them both of course.

Anyhow, Novak i love the Goat 3. But the QUALITY on the motor sensor wire is bunk. Please investigate that if you can.

For the rest of you guys if this sounds like an issue your esc/motor is having definitely check out the sensor wire. If your worried about a warranty contact Novak and get a new wire, As checking it the way i described wont void anything. Me, I prefer to fix everything myself and them make it stronger in the process, Warranty be darned.

[mdchris]

Given that the discussion about the jumpyness issues with the goat esc revolve around the drag break I assume if you run it in the no-drag mode that the issue does not occur? I've been considering the goat 3s system for my losi comp crawler where no drag brake is required because of the worm drive.

Are there still issues with the spektrum receivers? I'm currently using an sr3000 with mine.

thanks,
Chris

[gerr]

Originally Posted by mdchris

Given that the discussion about the jumpyness issues with the goat esc revolve around the drag break I assume if you run it in the no-drag mode that the issue does not occur? I've been considering the goat 3s system for my losi comp crawler where no drag brake is required because of the worm drive.

Are there still issues with the spektrum receivers? I'm currently using an sr3000 with mine.

thanks,
Chris

I run a LCC and even in worm mode it gets glitch happy at times, the specky recievers I use have not been the problem. 90% of the time its perfect the rest really kills the experience.

[mdchris]

Well I ended up with a free goat3s esc from a buddy not using it any more.

Can I run this thing without the huge ass capacitor? I don't see why it should be necessary, a MMP or Tekin RS doesn't need it....

I have a cc bec so if the cap is only needed because of the goat bec I can just not use it. I'd really like to get rid of that cap.