New Project (for me)

[Mike Flea]

Ok, here's the latest. Finished the rear bumper, brazed and painted, and mounted both the front and rear.

What a difference in steering with the new 444oz servo! The rebuilt shocks help too, and no noticeable difference in crawling ability using 40wt oil. The only problem with the shocks I did have, was the Jeep was still leaning to the right, so I preloaded the right rear, and it solved the problem, no more lean, and still handles decent.

Definitely need to do something else with the trailer though. When hooked to the Jeep, it sits lower, and with the smaller tires, it drags and hooks on every rock. I'm going to make a real suspension for it, as the stock, unsuspended axle just isn't going to get it.

Found a couple more accessories from Michael's: lanterns, another fishing pole, a better shovel.

On to the pics:

[TacoCrawler]

looks cool

I was contemplating your front bumper design...
well not not really the design...
but the omission of a winch platform up front.

I think I should include that on mine...
even if it does fubar the approach angle a little.

do you have any intention of utilizing a winch up front ?
if so... how would you mount that ?

maybe a remote winch with a feed tube to a hawse-fairlead up front ?

or are you just ignoring the need for a winch altogether ?

---------------

I have similar issue pulling my 1/10 scale trailer behind my honcho...
it's usually the front tub corners that get hung up.

And tho' some skids could be placed at the front corners of the tub...
it wouldn't look to scale.

So... if I'm pulling the trailer thru...
I have to be more selective of my line choices.

Reality is...

Have to use the same principal/approach
when dragging my 1:1 thru a trail as well.

Definitely ups the challenge a little more.

[Mike Flea]

Originally Posted by TacoCrawler

looks cool

I was contemplating your front bumper design...
well not not really the design...
but the omission of a winch platform up front.

I think I should include that on mine...
even if it does fubar the approach angle a little.

do you have any intention of utilizing a winch up front ?
if so... how would you mount that ?

maybe a remote winch with a feed tube to a hawse-fairlead up front ?

or are you just ignoring the need for a winch altogether ?

---------------

I have similar issue pulling my 1/10 scale trailer behind my honcho...
it's usually the front tub corners that get hung up.

And tho' some skids could be placed at the front corners of the tub...
it wouldn't look to scale.

So... if I'm pulling the trailer thru...
I have to be more selective of my line choices.

Reality is...

Have to use the same principal/approach
when dragging my 1:1 thru a trail as well.

Definitely ups the challenge a little more.

I really wasn't planning on doing a winch, but if I did, the remote winch idea is plausible. Maybe mount it in the bed, or underneath there are huge openings where the seats are, that a servo winch could be mounted, and then run the cable through a piece of brakeline that comes out the middle of the front bumper. I don't know yet.

I've been researching some trailer builds, and found BitterEnd's 1/6 trailer build. Also going to look into a leaf sprung axle, but I wonder if that will be bouncier than a spring/shock axle.

I think for the most part, other than a winch, the Jeep is basically done, although we say no project is ever complete

oh yea, I'm also still waiting on a friend to finish making my jerry can mount.

[cmbscx10]

Mike,
The acc additions are cool as heck. I like the dog and barbie's F-Up perm /cut form the burn you did. Q? What is the measurement of the shovel.

I really like the trailer behind your Jeep. To me trailers are a must for scale looks. My scale trailer is sprung but if i had to do it from scratch i would do a Trailing Arm Air Suspension. I have seen scale builds using front arms and springs to mimic 1:1.

I wish i had video's of my trailer behind my SCX. Like Taco said it makes you totally rethink your lines. I bought my trailer because of the one Taco bought to match my 1:1 Heep. I made a scale replica of my AT Max Coupler and it was near 100% the way my real trailer tracked and moved. The guy who bought my SCX noticed the coupler and paid extra for it. Shouldn't have done it but it was somewhat easy to make. When i finalize my trailer i will make another one.

[TacoCrawler]

Originally Posted by cmbscx10

I made a scale replica of my AT Max Coupler and it was near 100% the way my real trailer tracked and moved. The guy who bought my SCX noticed the coupler and paid extra for it. Shouldn't have done it but it was somewhat easy to make. When i finalize my trailer i will make another one.

Where's this picture of your replicated max coupler ?

Is it better then mine ?
I mean mine works purdy well mechanically... looks ok
But I'm always looking for something better

[cmbscx10]

Originally Posted by TacoCrawler

Where's this picture of your replicated max coupler ?

Is it better then mine ?
I mean mine works purdy well mechanically... looks ok
But I'm always looking for something better

I don't want to hijack Mikes thread but i never took finished pictures. I remember yours as being able to move back on itself it worked so well.

The hardest part was replicating this part.



All i have is from the 1st part of the build. The blue end link rotates on a bushing inside the square block.




When i finish my trailer and do another i will definitely post the pics and pics of it in action.

[BigSki]

Just my opinion, I say go for the leaf sprung trailer suspension! I had built one a few years ago, it's buried somewhere in the build thread for my orange Jerp.

Leafy springs have a nice bounce to them, just like the real thing!

[Mike Flea]

Originally Posted by cmbscx10

I don't want to hijack Mikes thread but i never took finished pictures. I remember yours as being able to move back on itself it worked so well.

The hardest part was replicating this part.



All i have is from the 1st part of the build. The blue end link rotates on a bushing inside the square block.




When i finish my trailer and do another i will definitely post the pics and pics of it in action.

Mike, couldn't you use the RCP Crawlers lower link/shock mount for that piece? also, on mine the clasp I'm using for the pintle rotates in the bumper, it's not a rigid ball & hitch set-up. The shovel is 4.5" long and the blade is 3/4" wide.

Originally Posted by BigSki

Just my opinion, I say go for the leaf sprung trailer suspension! I had built one a few years ago, it's buried somewhere in the build thread for my orange Jerp.

Leafy springs have a nice bounce to them, just like the real thing!

Ya, BigSki, I have that build in my favorites, and was just looking over it. Seems fairly simple to build. What did you use for leafs? RC4WD, Tamiya, or make them from spring steel like from a leaf rake?

[TacoCrawler]

^ yeah... I need to make another one for muh 1/6.
'course I'll have to build a trailer first

Hope to see yours looking/working better then mine.
Lemme know when you make another...
as I'd like to see your outcome of that replication.

Like that ammo box... where'd ya get it ?

---------------------

sorry for the clutter Mike...
but pictures might be helpful to others
wishing to make their own.

You said your build was purdy much done anyways...
So I'm just dumping on the end of your build thread, I think !?

----------------------

the paint arrows detail my lunette/coupler's rotation/articulation.

Ignore the hitch... as it was just zip tied on
and was unused plastics from the kit. (spelled... free)



How the lunette is mounted on my trailer's receptacle...

The spring function serves the same purpose as does
the lunette spring on my 1:1 M100. (shock load)

[cmbscx10]

Originally Posted by TacoCrawler

^ yeah... I need to make another one for muh 1/6.
'course I'll have to build a trailer first

Hope to see yours looking/working better then mine.
Lemme know when you make another...
as I'd like to see your outcome of that replication.

Like that ammo box... where'd ya get it ?

Will do. Once i get my trans worked out and a few other bugs i am going to move onto the trailer. I may have to actually learn how to use my Sherline 5400 i got for XMas.

Top Shelf Hobby 1 10 Small Ammo Box Army Green SCX10 Trail Finder 2 TSH AB01 | eBay

I have 4 that i bought for my SCX and Trailer but never used them. I was going to put 2 on the trailer and 2 in the JK. You were nice enough to make me stickers so I'll throw one at you when we meet up to crawl.

[BigSki]

Originally Posted by Mike Flea

Ya, BigSki, I have that build in my favorites, and was just looking over it. Seems fairly simple to build. What did you use for leafs? RC4WD, Tamiya, or make them from spring steel like from a leaf rake?

I think they were Tamiya leafs, I couldn't bring myself to use a set of Chino military wraps for the project. The axle took the most head scratching, and in the end after 2 failed attempts at completely machining the whole thing, I counter bored the axle shaft, cut off some dog bone axle stubs and pressed/brazed them into the axle tube. If you do it that way, you'll need to come up with a way of making wheels or hub adapters that will take 2 wheel bearings.

[Mike Flea]

That's what I'm trying to figure out now. I was looking at an scx10 axle, and trying to figure out how I can get the bearings and shafts into a small diameter pipe to create an axle, without having to put a drive axle under the trailer, which I don't want to do.

[Mike Flea]

I shaved the stock plastic suspension off today, and have started reinforcing the stock plastic framework on the bottom of the trailer, so I have somewhere to mount the new suspension to. I'm still unsure of which suspension I'm going to use, but I think the leaf set up would be more realistic, buuuuut, I have lots of extra links and shocks to make a shock/link arrangement.

[BigSki]

Traxxas Rustler front wheels use inner/outer bearing setups. I almost went this route, but decided to make it harder on myself than what was necessary...

[skerb]

Originally Posted by TacoCrawler

^ yeah... I need to make another one for muh 1/6.
'course I'll have to build a trailer first

Hope to see yours looking/working better then mine.
Lemme know when you make another...
as I'd like to see your outcome of that replication.

Like that ammo box... where'd ya get it ?

---------------------

sorry for the clutter Mike...
but pictures might be helpful to others
wishing to make their own.

You said your build was purdy much done anyways...
So I'm just dumping on the end of your build thread, I think !?

----------------------

the paint arrows detail my lunette/coupler's rotation/articulation.

Ignore the hitch... as it was just zip tied on
and was unused plastics from the kit. (spelled... free)



How the lunette is mounted on my trailer's receptacle...

The spring function serves the same purpose as does
the lunette spring on my 1:1 M100. (shock load)

The spring on the m100 and m416 style trailers is not to alleviate shock load, it is to give the lunette resistance to turning so that it stays level unless you put it in a hard bind. Your scale model works he same way.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Mike Flea]

Originally Posted by BigSki

Traxxas Rustler front wheels use inner/outer bearing setups. I almost went this route, but decided to make it harder on myself than what was necessary...

I like the way yours looks, and it doesn't appear to be that difficult to build. I called the lhs to day to see if they had a bearing 3/16 inside x 1/2 outside, to fit between the 3/16 allthread and fit snugly inside a 12mm hex, just to see if that would be stable enough to support the wheel.

I also looked at some 1/14 Tamiya semi trailer axles on e-bay, most are 120mm, but found a few at 140mm (5.5 inches), but even with Junfac's 19mm wideners, it's still only going to come out to 178mm (7 inches), I'm still 2 inches short.

[TacoCrawler]

Originally Posted by skerb

The spring on the m100 and m416 style trailers is not to alleviate shock load, it is to give the lunette resistance to turning so that it stays level unless you put it in a hard bind. Your scale model works he same way.

...you're at least half right.

But look at the 2nd picture...
and honestly tell me that the spring would not
absorb some shock load during hard accel./hang up ?

Did you engineer this piece ?
you must be older then dirt !?
no wait... a ghost from the past ? Lol

I don't even use my lunette.
it's just there as back up.

But I used it prior to my MC swap.
And the trailer always accels/brakes smoothly
doesn't jar muh bones when the trailer gets hung up momentarily.
Delay is hardly noticed... But I swear I could feel the spring soften the load.






my experience with an M100 1/4 T

[skerb]

Originally Posted by TacoCrawler

...you're at least half right.

But look at the 2nd picture...
and honestly tell me that the spring would not
absorb some shock load during hard accel./hang up ?

Did you engineer this piece ?
you must be older then dirt !?
no wait... a ghost from the past ? Lol

I don't even use my lunette.
it's just there as back up.

But I used it prior to my MC swap.
And the trailer always accels/brakes smoothly
doesn't jar muh bones when the trailer gets hung up momentarily.
Delay is hardly noticed... But I swear I could feel the spring soften the load.






my experience with an M100 1/4 T

I'm not her to argue about it, I'm just informing you what it is for. The lunette is tapered, it does not move in and out freely. The spring provides enough pressure to allow the lunette to rotate. I did not engineer this part but I do understand how it works.

And I have followed your build on expo. Nice m100.

Here are my m416s

[stevem50]

im digging watching these builds, there seems to be a few different types of these jeeps that all look pretty similar and a lot of ways to put them together. i realize thats the way with most rc stuff, but when theres no instruction manual, you find some real innovations out of the materials available...

[Mike Flea]

You use what you can to get the job done, and in our scale, most of the accessories have to be made.