RCCrawler Forums

neiloid1 · 10-19-2010, 07:23 AM

Hi Mark, where did you get the smaller packs from? Do you have a link?

Cheers, Neil

cbr6fs · 10-19-2010, 07:31 AM

They're all from hobbyking mate.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...8&LiPoConfig=2

Placed the order on 07/10/10 and received it today, so 12 days, not bad at all

neiloid1 · 10-19-2010, 08:37 AM

Cheers chap. All the small packs are on back order so I've saved the link.

cbr6fs · 10-19-2010, 09:02 AM

There's also a few Ebay shops selling the packs.
Found some in Germany here.

370mah
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Turnigy-Nano-3...item3a5d1dd900

460mah
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Turnigy-Nano-4...item3a5d1dd5fb

850mah
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Turnigy-Nano-8...item3a5d1dd2a5

1000mah
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Turnigy-Nano-1...item3a5cdef935

1300mah
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Turnigy-Nano-1...item3a5cdef6b8

cbr6fs · 10-19-2010, 03:50 PM

Spoke with Losi tech support a few days ago about the diff locker screw shearing.
Didn't really hold out much hope to be honest as usually as soon as RC companies tech support find out your from Europe they say they can't help you and you have to speak with the Euro distributor (who are absolutely useless).

Just received a reply today though, they're send out a LOSB0941 set free of charge.
I even offered to pay postage as i'm in Europe, but nope they wouldn't hear of it.

Fanfoooooooookintastic customer support Losi

I kinda feel a bit guilty about my previous bitching and moaning now

neiloid1 · 10-19-2010, 04:55 PM

Good result. Thanks for the other battery links.

cbr6fs · 10-20-2010, 01:44 AM

Probably bordering on OCD here, but hey i'm curious.

Thought i'd see what sort of weight i'm adding with batteries and elecs.

370mAh, not really sure if i'll get enough run time out of this one for it to be useful.

460mAh, same width and length as the 370mAh but slightly thicker

850mAh, really hope i get decent run out of this one, as size and shape wise it's the best out the lot.

1000mAh, Still not exactly big, it's fairly long and wide though.

As reference here's the stock 110mAh NiMh pack.

While i had the scales out i checked the Rx.

Shouldn't be a problem finding anywhere for that as it's hardly likely to upset the cars balance

As for the rest of the electronic.
CC give 28.35g as the weight for the Mamba Micro Pro.

The servo (Align DS610)

cbr6fs · 10-20-2010, 01:51 AM

Also did some corner weighting.

This is with the battery (stock NiMh) on top of the servo.

cbr6fs · 10-20-2010, 06:10 AM

Wheels and tyres came in today.

Bit disappointed to be honest, dunno if it was something i read, or old age starting to kick in, but i honestly thought the wheels would be alloy.
Turns out the centres are plastic though.

Apart from that, they seem to be decent quality, they fit together well and apart from loadssssssssssss of screws they went together easily.

Wheel weight with weights.

Wheel weight without the weights and missing all but 2 of the screws.

Just the weights.

Tyres.

Wheel and tyre fully assembled with weights

Stock wheel and tyre

Have only fitted the fronts for now, but wow what a difference, car drives up angles with both front wheels keeping contact on sections where the car flipped previously.

What would you guys do with regards to the rears?

I have the tuner weights on order and they should be here next week.
Should i wait for those to arrive and fit the lightest weights in the rear, or just bang in the weights that came with the wheels?

Cheers
Mark

cbr6fs · 10-27-2010, 11:14 AM

What a weird day.

Started out great when this little lot arrived.

Had these few bits arrive yesterday so they were all ready.

So after a cuppa i started unwrapping the stuff and laying everything out.

Motor mount is an absolute work of art.

As is the skid plate/tranny mount

Upper and lower links assembled

Fitter centre diff gears and motor mount, went together like butter, great bit of engineering

Chassis starting to come together.

So far so good.

cbr6fs · 10-27-2010, 11:34 AM

Problems started with the chassis.

I read through the BWD instructions many times while waiting for the kit to arrive, most is pretty self explanatory, but some better pics with close ups to the shock and link mounting would have helped.

So with the kit assembled and on me desk something just didn't look right.
The whole right (when viewed from the rear) side plate comes in at a steeper angle than the left side plate.

I've tried swapping links around, i've loosens the chassis screws and tried adjusting and re tightening but nothing.

Removed the side plates and swapped them round, still the same.

You can see it better from the top view.

Viewed from underneath the chassis doesn't seem twisted so it's really weird.
Normally i wouldn't worry, but the rear right shock binds at the very slightest articulation.

As you can see from the pics i've added a few small spacers, but instead of pushing out the right, the spacers only succeed in widening both sides.

Also getting binding pretty much everywhere.
The worst on the skin/tranny mount.

The bottom link (as seen in the pic) is fine, but the top link binds through the entire suspension travel.

Then there's the upper links.
I can't really see the point on all the holes on the side plates, as the upper links only work in the holes closest to the edge.
Likewise on the rear mount the outer holes are useless as you get spring bind even sat at rest.

Lastly there is no provision for mounting the stock servo, this coupled with the fact that there are no 1/10th servo mount arms included in the kit means i'll ether have to revert back to the stock chassis or wait a week while some ordered ones arrive.

Even then i'm not certain the stock steering arms will fit.

So all in a good start with a disappointing end to the day.

This is my first crawler so i'm not sure if this is the norm for aftermarket bits.

So a few questions please.

Anyone else had this lopsided sideplate problem?
How did you solve it?

Everyone else getting this binding problem on links, shocks etc?
Again any cure or is this just how it is with crawlers?

If i buy 1/10th servo mounts will the BWD servo mount work with the stock steering linkage?

Cheers
Mark

Carolina Crawler · 10-27-2010, 12:06 PM

Can't wait to see the final product with all this.

neiloid1 · 10-27-2010, 12:18 PM

Hi. You must be gutted! Mine went together with none of your problems I'm glad to say. Just a thought on your chassis twist, are you sure you have the same length upper links front and rear. I would just check as this would give you the twist your chassis is exhibiting and is easy done ....

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d4...s/IMG_6771.jpg

As for the second set of holes for the upper links, some people are running the upper links inboard. If you look at the pictures of the prototype and the production version you will see Don is doing just that on the front.

http://billet-works.com/yahoo_site_a...204937_std.jpg

I'm running a full size servo up front and got a pair of aluminium Hot Racing servo mounts for the Traxxas Slash. These push the servo further forward than the RPM mounts I had planned to use but I still needed spacers to get it in the right place. The BWD servo plate was designed for both full and micro servo so would assume that the stock servo should fit. Soon enough though you'll be upgrading your servo to something better once it gives up the ghost.

Hope this helps. It's a great chassis.

cbr6fs · 10-27-2010, 01:19 PM

Thanks guys

Well sat down had me tea and chilled out for a while, then decided to strip it down entirely and start again.

Measured the upper links and found that they're 2 different lengths and yep you've guessed it i'd got the different lengths on the same side

Put both the longer ones on the rear and jobs and good un.

The top section is still around 3mm to the left, but it's no where near as bad.

Still messing around trying to get a servo to work.
I'm gonna borrow the full sized servo mounts from one of my touring cars.

Only thing left then is to try some different upper link and shock positions to try and get this binding during articulation a bit better.

Neil,
Dunno if your servo plate is different to mine, or i'm making another mistake, but the only servo holes that line up with the stock servo are at the left or the right.
Both these positions mean that the stock linkage is either to long or too short.

None of the middle holes line up with the stock servo.

I'll snap some pics as it's easier to show than explain

cbr6fs · 10-27-2010, 04:38 PM

Here's what i mean about the stock servo.

The right side mount is in and ok, but if the servo's mounted in the middle there's a cut out where the left servo mount should be.

You could mount it left or right, but then you'd need a different steering linkage.

Carolina Crawler · 10-27-2010, 04:42 PM

I'm going to try to make me a servo mount like that, to where I can mount the servo to the right or left, so I can mount my battery next to it.

cbr6fs · 10-27-2010, 04:44 PM

Well what a fooooooooked up day.

Got it all together and working, as it's pissing it down outside i just tried it on the living room sofa course.

Just started climbing the first cushion and the car stopped.

Saw a cable hanging, thought it was just the motor connector loose.
Nope.

The connector on the motor snapped.

So it looks like i'm back to the stock motor for the foreseeable future.
Anyone know if that's repairable?

cbr6fs · 10-27-2010, 04:55 PM

So all in a day of up's and down's and down's.

Still it's all together and is pretty close to sorted.

Still not sitting straight as you can see from the pics.

This is on a flt table after i'd compressed and extended the shocks.
It just rests at this angle, something very very wrong.

Swapped both sides of the chassis, so that's not it.
Upper links are now the same length.
Chassis sits exactly the same even if the lower links are removed, so it can's be that.
It's the same with both the Alum and stock shocks, so can't be that.

That's pretty much me out of ideas.

It's also binding badly on the shocks

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6wYLTdhRB8

If i move the upper links to the inner most mount then the links bind on the chassis.
If i add a small spacer then that moves the shocks out more and cancels out the gain from moving the shocks in.

Is this usual on MRC's?

I had more articulation on the stock chassis before binding, so is this just something we have to put up with when we go 4 link?

Cheers
Mark

El Matador · 10-27-2010, 05:34 PM

Scatterbrained stupid little truck build hopefully this helps. this is one of the best kit for the MRC on the market adn seen it perform. You have something wrong. check this out and see what gives. Good luck

neiloid1 · 10-27-2010, 05:35 PM

Bad luck on the motor tab!

Something is definately not right. Did you assemble the main chassis upside down as per the BWD build thread and keep it true as you tightened the bolts up?

I see you got your full size servo on there but you are still using the stock servo arm instead of the one you bought?

Also, what wideners are you running up front?

10-20-2010, 01:44 AM	#47
cbr6fs Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Athens Posts: 474	Probably bordering on OCD here, but hey i'm curious. Thought i'd see what sort of weight i'm adding with batteries and elecs. 370mAh, not really sure if i'll get enough run time out of this one for it to be useful. 460mAh, same width and length as the 370mAh but slightly thicker 850mAh, really hope i get decent run out of this one, as size and shape wise it's the best out the lot. 1000mAh, Still not exactly big, it's fairly long and wide though. As reference here's the stock 110mAh NiMh pack. While i had the scales out i checked the Rx. Shouldn't be a problem finding anywhere for that as it's hardly likely to upset the cars balance As for the rest of the electronic. CC give 28.35g as the weight for the Mamba Micro Pro. The servo (Align DS610) Last edited by cbr6fs; 02-19-2013 at 08:18 AM.

10-20-2010, 01:51 AM	#48
cbr6fs Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Athens Posts: 474	Also did some corner weighting. This is with the battery (stock NiMh) on top of the servo. Last edited by cbr6fs; 02-19-2013 at 08:19 AM.

10-20-2010, 06:10 AM	#49
cbr6fs Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Athens Posts: 474	Wheels and tyres came in today. Bit disappointed to be honest, dunno if it was something i read, or old age starting to kick in, but i honestly thought the wheels would be alloy. Turns out the centres are plastic though. Apart from that, they seem to be decent quality, they fit together well and apart from loadssssssssssss of screws they went together easily. Wheel weight with weights. Wheel weight without the weights and missing all but 2 of the screws. Just the weights. Tyres. Wheel and tyre fully assembled with weights Stock wheel and tyre Have only fitted the fronts for now, but wow what a difference, car drives up angles with both front wheels keeping contact on sections where the car flipped previously. What would you guys do with regards to the rears? I have the tuner weights on order and they should be here next week. Should i wait for those to arrive and fit the lightest weights in the rear, or just bang in the weights that came with the wheels? Cheers Mark Last edited by cbr6fs; 02-19-2013 at 08:19 AM.

10-27-2010, 11:14 AM	#50
cbr6fs Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Athens Posts: 474	What a weird day. Started out great when this little lot arrived. Had these few bits arrive yesterday so they were all ready. So after a cuppa i started unwrapping the stuff and laying everything out. Motor mount is an absolute work of art. As is the skid plate/tranny mount Upper and lower links assembled Fitter centre diff gears and motor mount, went together like butter, great bit of engineering Chassis starting to come together. So far so good. Last edited by cbr6fs; 02-19-2013 at 08:21 AM.

10-27-2010, 11:34 AM	#51
cbr6fs Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Athens Posts: 474	Problems started with the chassis. I read through the BWD instructions many times while waiting for the kit to arrive, most is pretty self explanatory, but some better pics with close ups to the shock and link mounting would have helped. So with the kit assembled and on me desk something just didn't look right. The whole right (when viewed from the rear) side plate comes in at a steeper angle than the left side plate. I've tried swapping links around, i've loosens the chassis screws and tried adjusting and re tightening but nothing. Removed the side plates and swapped them round, still the same. You can see it better from the top view. Viewed from underneath the chassis doesn't seem twisted so it's really weird. Normally i wouldn't worry, but the rear right shock binds at the very slightest articulation. As you can see from the pics i've added a few small spacers, but instead of pushing out the right, the spacers only succeed in widening both sides. Also getting binding pretty much everywhere. The worst on the skin/tranny mount. The bottom link (as seen in the pic) is fine, but the top link binds through the entire suspension travel. Then there's the upper links. I can't really see the point on all the holes on the side plates, as the upper links only work in the holes closest to the edge. Likewise on the rear mount the outer holes are useless as you get spring bind even sat at rest. Lastly there is no provision for mounting the stock servo, this coupled with the fact that there are no 1/10th servo mount arms included in the kit means i'll ether have to revert back to the stock chassis or wait a week while some ordered ones arrive. Even then i'm not certain the stock steering arms will fit. So all in a good start with a disappointing end to the day. This is my first crawler so i'm not sure if this is the norm for aftermarket bits. So a few questions please. Anyone else had this lopsided sideplate problem? How did you solve it? Everyone else getting this binding problem on links, shocks etc? Again any cure or is this just how it is with crawlers? If i buy 1/10th servo mounts will the BWD servo mount work with the stock steering linkage? Cheers Mark Last edited by cbr6fs; 02-19-2013 at 08:21 AM.

10-19-2010, 07:23 AM	#41
neiloid1 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Hampshire, UK Posts: 396	Hi Mark, where did you get the smaller packs from? Do you have a link? Cheers, Neil

10-19-2010, 07:31 AM	#42
cbr6fs Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Athens Posts: 474	They're all from hobbyking mate. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...8&LiPoConfig=2 Placed the order on 07/10/10 and received it today, so 12 days, not bad at all

10-19-2010, 08:37 AM	#43
neiloid1 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Hampshire, UK Posts: 396	Cheers chap. All the small packs are on back order so I've saved the link.

10-19-2010, 09:02 AM	#44
cbr6fs Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Athens Posts: 474	There's also a few Ebay shops selling the packs. Found some in Germany here. 370mah http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Turnigy-Nano-3...item3a5d1dd900 460mah http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Turnigy-Nano-4...item3a5d1dd5fb 850mah http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Turnigy-Nano-8...item3a5d1dd2a5 1000mah http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Turnigy-Nano-1...item3a5cdef935 1300mah http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Turnigy-Nano-1...item3a5cdef6b8

10-19-2010, 03:50 PM	#45
cbr6fs Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Athens Posts: 474	Spoke with Losi tech support a few days ago about the diff locker screw shearing. Didn't really hold out much hope to be honest as usually as soon as RC companies tech support find out your from Europe they say they can't help you and you have to speak with the Euro distributor (who are absolutely useless). Just received a reply today though, they're send out a LOSB0941 set free of charge. I even offered to pay postage as i'm in Europe, but nope they wouldn't hear of it. Fanfoooooooookintastic customer support Losi I kinda feel a bit guilty about my previous bitching and moaning now

10-19-2010, 04:55 PM	#46
neiloid1 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Hampshire, UK Posts: 396	Good result. Thanks for the other battery links.

10-27-2010, 12:06 PM	#52
Carolina Crawler Newbie Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Boondocks Posts: 39	Can't wait to see the final product with all this.

10-27-2010, 12:18 PM	#53
neiloid1 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Hampshire, UK Posts: 396	Hi. You must be gutted! Mine went together with none of your problems I'm glad to say. Just a thought on your chassis twist, are you sure you have the same length upper links front and rear. I would just check as this would give you the twist your chassis is exhibiting and is easy done .... http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d4...s/IMG_6771.jpg As for the second set of holes for the upper links, some people are running the upper links inboard. If you look at the pictures of the prototype and the production version you will see Don is doing just that on the front. http://billet-works.com/yahoo_site_a...204937_std.jpg I'm running a full size servo up front and got a pair of aluminium Hot Racing servo mounts for the Traxxas Slash. These push the servo further forward than the RPM mounts I had planned to use but I still needed spacers to get it in the right place. The BWD servo plate was designed for both full and micro servo so would assume that the stock servo should fit. Soon enough though you'll be upgrading your servo to something better once it gives up the ghost. Hope this helps. It's a great chassis. Last edited by neiloid1; 10-27-2010 at 12:54 PM.

10-27-2010, 01:19 PM	#54
cbr6fs Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Athens Posts: 474	Thanks guys Well sat down had me tea and chilled out for a while, then decided to strip it down entirely and start again. Measured the upper links and found that they're 2 different lengths and yep you've guessed it i'd got the different lengths on the same side Put both the longer ones on the rear and jobs and good un. The top section is still around 3mm to the left, but it's no where near as bad. Still messing around trying to get a servo to work. I'm gonna borrow the full sized servo mounts from one of my touring cars. Only thing left then is to try some different upper link and shock positions to try and get this binding during articulation a bit better. Neil, Dunno if your servo plate is different to mine, or i'm making another mistake, but the only servo holes that line up with the stock servo are at the left or the right. Both these positions mean that the stock linkage is either to long or too short. None of the middle holes line up with the stock servo. I'll snap some pics as it's easier to show than explain

10-27-2010, 04:38 PM	#55
cbr6fs Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Athens Posts: 474	Here's what i mean about the stock servo. The right side mount is in and ok, but if the servo's mounted in the middle there's a cut out where the left servo mount should be. You could mount it left or right, but then you'd need a different steering linkage. Last edited by cbr6fs; 02-19-2013 at 08:22 AM.

Sponsored Links

10-27-2010, 04:42 PM	#56
Carolina Crawler Newbie Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Boondocks Posts: 39	I'm going to try to make me a servo mount like that, to where I can mount the servo to the right or left, so I can mount my battery next to it.

10-27-2010, 04:44 PM	#57
cbr6fs Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Athens Posts: 474	Well what a fooooooooked up day. Got it all together and working, as it's pissing it down outside i just tried it on the living room sofa course. Just started climbing the first cushion and the car stopped. Saw a cable hanging, thought it was just the motor connector loose. Nope. The connector on the motor snapped. So it looks like i'm back to the stock motor for the foreseeable future. Anyone know if that's repairable? Last edited by cbr6fs; 02-19-2013 at 08:22 AM.

10-27-2010, 04:55 PM	#58
cbr6fs Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Athens Posts: 474	So all in a day of up's and down's and down's. Still it's all together and is pretty close to sorted. Still not sitting straight as you can see from the pics. This is on a flt table after i'd compressed and extended the shocks. It just rests at this angle, something very very wrong. Swapped both sides of the chassis, so that's not it. Upper links are now the same length. Chassis sits exactly the same even if the lower links are removed, so it can's be that. It's the same with both the Alum and stock shocks, so can't be that. That's pretty much me out of ideas. It's also binding badly on the shocks http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6wYLTdhRB8 If i move the upper links to the inner most mount then the links bind on the chassis. If i add a small spacer then that moves the shocks out more and cancels out the gain from moving the shocks in. Is this usual on MRC's? I had more articulation on the stock chassis before binding, so is this just something we have to put up with when we go 4 link? Cheers Mark Last edited by cbr6fs; 02-19-2013 at 08:22 AM.

10-27-2010, 05:34 PM	#59
El Matador Pebble Pounder Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: West Orange Posts: 128	Scatterbrained stupid little truck build hopefully this helps. this is one of the best kit for the MRC on the market adn seen it perform. You have something wrong. check this out and see what gives. Good luck

10-27-2010, 05:35 PM	#60
neiloid1 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Hampshire, UK Posts: 396	Bad luck on the motor tab! Something is definately not right. Did you assemble the main chassis upside down as per the BWD build thread and keep it true as you tightened the bolts up? I see you got your full size servo on there but you are still using the stock servo arm instead of the one you bought? Also, what wideners are you running up front?

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