Another one joins the MRC fray

[cbr6fs]

Also fitted the foams Neil kindly sent.

Compared to the standard Rover foams.




Compared to the tyres.




I fitted one at a time to try and see if i could tell any difference.

This is the upgraded foam fitted to the left.




Standard Rover foam on the right




Did a bit of tame driving around the house, then outside but to be honest i couldn't tell any difference.
I fitted both the upgrade foams in both the front wheels and i'll the usual spot again this week to try em out in action rather than faffing about outside.



Cheers
Mark

[billet works]

I'm glad to see the steering kit worked out for ya!

[neiloid1]

Only thing restricting my lock now are the CVD's.
Do the Losi or MIP CVD kits give anymore steering lock?

MIP don't make a steering CVD for the MRC but the Losi ones should although some feel the quality is suspect. Just waiting for mine to turn up, so I hope not.

The foams dont look that different in size to the stock Rover foam - I hope they work out for you.

The ZA steering kit looks great - much beefier than than Losi Pro job. Did you drill the ZA knockles to 3mm yet or are you still using the Pro's stock "shouldered" 2mm bolts to attach the BWD steerer?

Looking good

[cbr6fs]

Originally Posted by billet works

I'm glad to see the steering kit worked out for ya!

Massive massive thanks Don for you help and support

Originally Posted by neiloid1

MIP don't make a steering CVD for the MRC but the Losi ones should although some feel the quality is suspect. Just waiting for mine to turn up, so I hope not.

The foams dont look that different in size to the stock Rover foam - I hope they work out for you.

The ZA steering kit looks great - much beefier than than Losi Pro job. Did you drill the ZA knockles to 3mm yet or are you still using the Pro's stock "shouldered" 2mm bolts to attach the BWD steerer?

Looking good

I'll hold off ordering some till i see what you recon then mate.

Not much difference at all in the foams, yours were slightly bigger and slightly softer, if i squeeze the tyre you can feel yours are a little softer and seem to hold the shape fractionally longer.

To be honest i've only faffed around since fitting em, the real test will be to see how they compare on the usual crawling spot.

Even if they're slightly better i'm still grateful though Neil as no doubt i'd have bought some to try anyways.
So any which way you've saved me a few quid


I'm kicking meself for buying them Titus wheels

Because the weigh system is inside the wheel.
1/ It's a nightmare to get to if you want to try different settings
2/ With the larger weights (as used in the front) it doesn't leave much room for the tyre to compress
3/ The inners are cheap crap plastic



With the price i paid for em together with the tuner weights i could have nearly bought some VP LH ProComp's.

To make matters worse i tried ordering some VP's and they're now out of stock on the ProComps.


You mean the thread that the steering linkage bolts into?
I think that's 3mm already.



Cheers
Mark

[neiloid1]

I nearly went with the Prolines, but I'm tight so I bought Axials and weighted them myself, as you know. Glad I didn't get the Prolines from what you've said. The Losi weight inside, which is neat and you can tune them with heavier weights (I just discovered) but the other good things are 12 bolts a wheel and the weights bolt into a central groove.

I'd love to try the Vanquish and the BWD aluminium Vertex.

Really confused on the Losi ZA knuckles, are they 3mm on the steering arm where the BWD steerer bolts onto them. If so I'll get them and run longer bolts on my BWD OTA with spacers.

Be interested in your findings on the foams, whatever, its always good to have spares so that you can experiment with shaping and reducing them.

Cheers, Neil

[cbr6fs]

Originally Posted by neiloid1

I nearly went with the Prolines, but I'm tight so I bought Axials and weighted them myself, as you know. Glad I didn't get the Prolines from what you've said. The Losi weight inside, which is neat and you can tune them with heavier weights (I just discovered) but the other good things are 12 bolts a wheel and the weights bolt into a central groove.

Aye 12 screws on the Titus wheels as well every time you want to adjust the weight
It's hardly like 6 screws won't be enough on a decent design.

I've had the beadlocks off 3 times now and already the plastic inner wheel (the chrome bit) has lost it's threads.

Originally Posted by neiloid1

I'd love to try the Vanquish and the BWD aluminium Vertex.

The BWD wheels look nice and to be honest after the service and help Don has given me i'd really prefer to put my business his way, but i couldn't see how the weights are added to his wheels

Originally Posted by neiloid1

Really confused on the Losi ZA knuckles, are they 3mm on the steering arm where the BWD steerer bolts onto them. If so I'll get them and run longer bolts on my BWD OTA with spacers.

Sorry mate i'm shite at explaining stuff, that's why i put so many pics up, i'm not a ASW i'm just crap at explaining stuff

In that context here's what the Losi ZA links are threaded at from the factory.
Not really sure which ones you mean as some are 2mm t'other are 3mm.

Originally Posted by neiloid1

Be interested in your findings on the foams, whatever, its always good to have spares so that you can experiment with shaping and reducing them.

Yep 110% agree.
Part of the problem is my lack of crawling experience, i've not really had enough crawling time to have the experience and knowledge to pick up on subtle changes.
YET



Cheers
Mark

[Gfresh]

First thing i noticed when driving was with the longer servo arm i had to turn down my EPA to 40%
Full lock to lock is around 1cm of servo arm movement.

Only thing restricting my lock now are the CVD's.
Do the Losi or MIP CVD kits give anymore steering lock?


-
Hi,
I have the same Ansmann servo horn/arm. I cut it right down, drilled a 2.5mm hole and tapped it to 3mm, The shorter throw, means I hit full lock (with Losi CVDs) at about 95% of my servo/TX movement (i.e. EPA only slightly). The short throw gives and increase in torque over the longer arm (I worked out approx 60% increase I think) which is quite a bit for free. Like buying a much stronger servo. [But would effectivly slow down the steering movement - not a problem on the Savox 1251, its super fast)
Not sure if this would work for you? Mine just clears the horn/arm-rod end from binding at full lock.
The Losi CVDs give a bit more steering over the stock cups/dog bones which is always a welcome! (although some report they can break more easily than the stock stuff?).

Hope this helps someone.



Sorry for poor picture quality, thats my few year old Sony Ericsson W810i in action (the best mobile/cell phone IMO. None of this stupid touch screen stuff. how do you phone 911/999 if you fall and crack the screen??? I worked in forensics examining phones for the past few years. touch screens are the biggest pain once they get old and damaged. . . Wait, this is about crawlers not phones,,,,,, sorry . .)

[cbr6fs]

Originally Posted by Gfresh

Hi,
I have the same Ansmann servo horn/arm. I cut it right down, drilled a 2.5mm hole and tapped it to 3mm, The shorter throw, means I hit full lock (with Losi CVDs) at about 95% of my servo/TX movement (i.e. EPA only slightly). The short throw gives and increase in torque over the longer arm (I worked out approx 60% increase I think) which is quite a bit for free. Like buying a much stronger servo. [But would effectivly slow down the steering movement - not a problem on the Savox 1251, its super fast)
Not sure if this would work for you? Mine just clears the horn/arm-rod end from binding at full lock.
The Losi CVDs give a bit more steering over the stock cups/dog bones which is always a welcome! (although some report they can break more easily than the stock stuff?).

Hope this helps someone.

Nice setup you've got there

I did try using a shorter servo arm.
Unfortunately the servo to knuckle linkage hits the linkage going from the left to right knuckles if i go any shorter.

Ideas and support much welcome though

[cbr6fs]

Few updates.

First off the axle covers came in this week, but the temp bodge i carried out on the old axle is still holding together so i'll not replace it yet.

Thought i'd take a bit of a gamble a few weeks ago and try the smaller Hobbywing motors, pretty sure they'd cog a bit more than the brushed motors i'm using, but my logic was i can use the brushless motors for just faffing about then use the brushed when i'm out on the rocks proper.

So these 2 puppies arrived in the week.



All looked good so far, after unboxing something looked a bit odd though.



Took out the stock motor to compare and yep they're a fair it smaller





Mounting holes still look like they'll fit so while i have em i may as well give em a try.
I'll update when i test em but expect cog city and lack of torque.



Finally decided to do something about the body mounts in preparation for the Baja shell.
Had a bit of a play about and tried using the stick battery mount posts, with only 2 posts though i wasn't happy as there was not enough side to side strength holding the shell on, to plan B.

After a rummage through me spares box i found some Tamiya M04M body posts that were offset, i liked the idea of this as using straight body posts would mean they came out the roof.

Not one for aesthetics it worried me more that.
1/ Posts sticking out the top would catch causing damage
2/ They'd interfere with the self correcting once it's on it's back (the main reason for going for the Baja).

Still some tidying up to do, but here's my first attempt at body mounting.



Seems to work pretty well, the shell is rock solid stable and both body posts are tucked out the way so are not likely to snag when the cars righting itself.

Lastly for now i painted up the shell, came out ok for a quick and dirty paint job, still needs stickers and i will have to cut off the motor at the back as the battery packs hit it
Colours are fantastic but as per usual the flash doesn't bring em out so i'll snap some outdoor shots in the morrow.




Cheers
Mark

[cbr6fs]

Neil thought it'd be a good idea to share what settings we're running on the Mamba Micro, i agree so took a screen shot while it was hooked up.

[cbr6fs]

[biggusditchus]

Shell looks great, cant help thinking it could do with being lower but guess it wouldnt look the same .

[neiloid1]

Good work Mark, can't believe it was your kids that painted the shell - looks great and you managed to keep the engine

I'd drop the Proline roof stickers in preparation for your new wheels !

[cbr6fs]

Originally Posted by biggusditchus

Shell looks great, cant help thinking it could do with being lower but guess it wouldnt look the same .

Thanks mate.

Absolutely agree 100%, unfortunately if i go any lower the bonnet catches on the servo

Still faffing about with mounting so i'll so what i can to get it as low as i can.

You should have seen my first mock up, i was determined to keep the front wings on as such it was about 6" over the car

Originally Posted by neiloid1

Good work Mark, can't believe it was your kids that painted the shell - looks great and you managed to keep the engine

I'd drop the Proline roof stickers in preparation for your new wheels !

I bribed the kids off so i got to paint it instead

Was looking through and i guess it's a sign of the times, but out of all the stuff i've fitted there was hardly any of it that came with stickers.
Don you need to include stickers in with your kits mate, i'd love to show off with a few BWD stickers.

I do have a Dark Soul sticker which looks kick ass, but as i've got no Dark Soul stuff on me MRC i thought it a bit crap putting it on.



Cheers
Mark

[biggusditchus]

Originally Posted by cbr6fs

Thanks mate.

Absolutely agree 100%, unfortunately if i go any lower the bonnet catches on the servo

Still faffing about with mounting so i'll so what i can to get it as low as i can.

Cheers
Mark

I had the same problem till I realised I had to drop the rear down (losing the engine, which i wanted to keep too).



You could lower yours a fair bit further, remember that both front shocks wont compress together so just look at what servo does when axle articulates.

[cbr6fs]

Any rear shots?
(didn't think i'd be asking a grown ass bloke that when i woke up this morning )

Are you also using the rear servo mount for your batteries?

[biggusditchus]

I used to, now mount it on side of chassis.



Best shots I got chap, this is link to my build thread... Bigg1 build thread

[cbr6fs]

Great build

I think next time out i'll try the pack on the side of the chassis as it's a bit exposed hanging out the arse end.

[cbr6fs]

Been a while since i last had a good bash with the MRC, so a few phone calls and a mate and i met up with Spiros (MadForce) again today.

As i knew it'd get "christened" i thought i'd take a few unscratched pics before i went out.



As you can see i ended up having to chop the motor off the shell



Bit shite that Pro-Line advertise this as a MRC shell yet it doesn't actually fit on a MRC without a fair bit of chopping and butchering

So to the bashing pics.





As i was driving i remembered that Neil wanted a pic of the roof of the shell, so to try and be helpful i thought i'd roll the car over for a pic
Of course it wasn't mistake on my part that just happened to get snapped at the right moment





Spiros's XR10 was OOA so he bought his SCX-10 along, itcame in useful







Couple of vids here.
Snapped some vids of all 3 of us driving, i'm pretty sure these 2 are when Spiros was driving though.
You can tell it's Spiros driving as the car is on it's wheels most the time as opposed to it's roof when i'm driving

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aMoQaKD6A20

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fZxlxa1_qgw


Neil,
I was able to notice a bit more grip on the front.
As everything else on the car is pretty much the same the only conclusion i can come to is, it's the foams


Paul,
The 16T motor is fanfoooooooooookintastic.
The HR 62T spur arrived today so i can fit the 11T pinion at last (12T is the limit the BWD adjusts to, and before you say it there is absolutely no way shape or form i'm taking me dremel to that beauty )
I also kinda like the speed the car has now, roughly how much longer would the motor last on 11T/62T as opposed to 12T/stock spur?

That's all the good stuff.

Unfortunately the fooooooookin shock rods popped out the lower mounts again TWICE
Honestly thought that by fitting some Nitro tubing it'd sove this problem, obviously not though.

Any ideas?
Is this just a Losi shock problem?


Cheers
Mark

[SMR 510RR]

Originally Posted by cbr6fs

Unfortunately the fooooooookin shock rods popped out the lower mounts again TWICE
Honestly thought that by fitting some Nitro tubing it'd sove this problem, obviously not though.

Any ideas?
Is this just a Losi shock problem?


Cheers
Mark

Glue...That is the best way.