Whittling on a SCX24

[Natedog]

Originally Posted by CaliCrawler

They’re completely sealed and are exactly like the 10th scale old man emu internally. To be safe though, if I were to completely fill them I would run them upside down. Like how they measure travel distance without the internal spring. Sometimes their descriptions aren’t thought out very well. Now I can’t remember whether the internal washer has holes or not… ? i’ll have to look later.

I'd run them right side up and see, easy to change later. Thicker oil and diff fluid (I'm using 3000wt in my TF2) does not leak as easily and some shocks are so under damped that they neeed the thicker viscosity. Tinier shocks are much more sensitive to proper oil fill, couple drops of diff fluid, 3k or 5k weight might work very well and never leak.

Casey, what's this sweet little rig doing back several pages? I know you're busy designing and printing all kinda cool 3d parts on several other trucks, but what's new here???

[HumboldtEF]

Originally Posted by Natedog

Casey, what's this sweet little rig doing back several pages? I know you're busy designing and printing all kinda cool 3d parts on several other trucks, but what's new here???

Indeed I've buried myself under a few recent projects lol



But I'm mostly just scratching it up and having fun with them. My nephew's absolutely love these things so I usually bring it out for them when I get the chance.
I've resisted the urge to add all of the brass but a tiny bit more weight might be helpful so I may add the diff cover.

[bluemeane]

So I am slow to the SCX24 party, but waited for a body I wanted and got the C10 Chevy because DAMN! (Wish it was an F250 though lol)


Anywaaaaays,


What options do I have now for wheels and tires? I just want something softer and more grippy. And everything people have posted seems to be all out of stock until the end of time lol.



Also what about shocks? I see some people use Old Man Emu, are the decent for this> Can they use stock hardware, or the hardware that comes with them?


I also have seen that the HR racing blue 43mm shocks should fit, do these get good results?

[axben]

That's a pretty sweet build, keep up the good work!

[HumboldtEF]

Originally Posted by bluemeane

So I am slow to the SCX24 party, but waited for a body I wanted and got the C10 Chevy because DAMN! (Wish it was an F250 though lol)
Anywaaaaays,

What options do I have now for wheels and tires? I just want something softer and more grippy. And everything people have posted seems to be all out of stock until the end of time lol.

Also what about shocks? I see some people use Old Man Emu, are the decent for this> Can they use stock hardware, or the hardware that comes with them?

I also have seen that the HR racing blue 43mm shocks should fit, do these get good results?

I dont have the answer to any of those questions, you might try posting in current threads on those subjects

Check the shock thread here SCX24 Shock upgrade ???

and the tire thread Best tire forSCX24

Originally Posted by axben

That's a pretty sweet build, keep up the good work!

Thanks


I just picked up a HR front axle and their weighted knuckles. I didn't trust the heavy brass knuckles with the plastic housing and the tiny screws holding all that weight. Although I did get a 2nd set for the Red rig and its going to gamble with the plastic housings, though I did just acquire a spare after I..uh thew it away.








I'm still not a Hot racing fan so i sanded off the HR logo on the diff cover






Its very planted when climbing now but when dropping down a step you need to gun it because its so front heavy. I could see a lighter knuckle doing just as good uphill and better downhill.


The parts went together good, decent fit and finish and before I slapped it all together I looked into 3D printing a spacer to tighten up the worn gear pinion that has the tiny rubber O-rings stock. It turned out to be a bit on the thin side but it also happened to be the same size as a common metal washer. The extra play (slop) seems to be about .7mm and most common washers in this size are .5-.6mm thick which is just about right.

[AK KRAWLER]

Looks pretty sweet man!!! I’m trying real hard to not buy one of these little rigs

Is the SCX24 the best of the little rigs, or is there a better one for the price point.

[HumboldtEF]

Originally Posted by AK KRAWLER

Looks pretty sweet man!!! I’m trying real hard to not buy one of these little rigs

Is the SCX24 the best of the little rigs, or is there a better one for the price point.

Thanks!

As this is my first mini I dont feel like I'm totally qualified to answer but I feel like its probably one of the better options, RC4WD is super heavy and I cant see it performing as good. Parts are readily available which isn't the case for all mini's.

[AK KRAWLER]

Either way, I respect your opinion. It’ll be my first as well. I’m a Ford guy, so I’d rather get a Ford truck body, but there’s always actual model bodies that could be used. I’ve seen lots of parts available for the SCX24.

[lkvisser]

Originally Posted by AK KRAWLER

Looks pretty sweet man!!! I’m trying real hard to not buy one of these little rigs

Is the SCX24 the best of the little rigs, or is there a better one for the price point.

I’m not that knowledgeable on all the minis but between my 1/18 gelande and scx24; I’d pick gelande. It is quality, heavy and mainly metal. The rc4wd is something you could display., it’s beautiful!


The gelande has a lot more torque but less wheels speed. I love the the torque! My scx24 always stalls out., rc4wd is more smooth. I’m looking for a motor replacement for the scx24 and all the popular replacements are sold out.
The gelande also has a wider stance., less likely to tip imo.

But neither of mine are too stock.., bigger change to scx24.

Here’s the gelande vid (will have the scx24 out today).


https://youtu.be/JAt6kvRw_DU


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[lkvisser]

https://youtu.be/jPBAi26g0ag


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[JSterrett]

Originally Posted by HumboldtEF

Thanks!

As this is my first mini I dont feel like I'm totally qualified to answer but I feel like its probably one of the better options, RC4WD is super heavy and I cant see it performing as good. Parts are readily available which isn't the case for all mini's.

I own 4 different minis (SCX24, RC4WD D90, Ambush, ECX) and you're right, the D90 is WAY heavier. With some mods it can still be a pretty good crawler. Personally I like the weight, drives a bit more realistically IMO.



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[AK KRAWLER]

Not wanting to clutter Humboldt's thread, so I will start a fresh one with some questions.

Thanks for all the info and keep up the great work guys!!!

[HumboldtEF]

Somebody else just did a remix of my front battery tray design so it works with the Jeep as well. Thanks Nick3509!

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4295544

[HumboldtEF]

So I got a little present last weekend, the Furitek Lizard (ESC/motor combo) https://www.amainhobbies.com/furitek...qcq2wqbbzcqctz

I recall seeing how this setup would mean ditching everything I had done to move the electronics and battery and I wasnt interested at the time. Anyway a month back my Brother asked "If I would want one" without spelling out he would buy it.

Well now that I had it I had to try it out which mean designing a few 3D prints to make it all work.

My front battery mount will no longer work due to the motor placement, its moved to the front of the tranny and sits a lot higher. Event the stock part (front shock mount/electronics tray) would need to be modified.

I used my front battery mount design as a base and just removed the tray portion in the middle so the motor clears. Its just a shock tower and crossmember now.


I used a Spektrum receiver, pulled it out of the case and put some heatshrink on it. I found a spot to the left of the tranny where I could tuck it in. I made a little mount that hangs off the side of the chassis. Its a bit hard to see the orientation but its ion its side with the plug end towards the rear.



Then the battery simply needed to go in the back. I made up a slim battery mount. I had intended to glue a thin .5mm sheet of styrene sheet to it for the battery tray bottom but the slim frame works too. I wrap a velcro strap around the battery and chassis rails to hold it in place (not in the pic)



The wiring was just mocked up with a twist tie in this picture, I went back and zip tied it after refining a few of the prints further.



I'm impressed with the setup, the added control and torque is really great. Now this thing can do some very technical slow crawling, where it used to be a very jumpy mostly full throttle affair before. I did expect a little more wheelspeed though, but seeing how these are driven extensively but my nephews I think its probably for the best.
Oh and the pinion size is odd, its a 3mm shaft instead of the more common 1/8" shaft, they're very close and a 1/8" pinion will fit but you will have concentricity issues (wobbly pinion)

I cant see this working too well unless you have some brass knuckles or some extra weight on the axles as this motor adds a lot of weight fairly high up.
I had the HR aluminum axle up front and brass knuckles which kept the truck fairly planted except on some extreme downhill lines.

I'd still need to weigh this thing after all these changes. I put his setup on my hardbody Toyota, I'd still like to keep my deadbolt as a lightweight setup.

I'll be uploading these designs tonight.

[HumboldtEF]

Okay all the new STL's for the Furitek conversion are up on Thingiverse if anyone wants to print them.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4929016