exceed rc maxstone 16 upgrades and tuning?

[Scttduk]

Thanks for the picture. That's how I've mounted my shocks as well to the chassis.
Allthough, I did it as part of getting rid of the battery tray (knowing it would also be part of the 4-link, that's yet to come).
That's what I figured on the top links at the servo mount, and answers my question regarding the lower link locations on the chassis.
I was considering making a new motor mount plate to bring in the lower links at the chassis mount as shown in some of the earlier posts in this thread.

[Natedog]

Originally Posted by daBigO

Here is a picture of my Everest 16 that I took early today
...

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That is awesome, love it! Where did you get the body? Looks like you added led headlights too?

[daBigO]

Thanks for the compliments guys! Natedog the body is from Ridemakerz... Modified to fit...It actually came with the lights already but they are not hooked up yet as it is supposed to connect to a Ridemakerz chassis. That's a future project... There is a 12 LED light controller by Tamiya that I am eyeballing on eBay to maybe control them...

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[Scttduk]

Originally Posted by daBigO

OK so I ran mine super slow like you described and it does the same thing... I guess I never noticed before since I never run it that slow. I do think it is the ESC but I don't think it is a bad ESC just not a really good one since it is the stock ESC. Since the fireball (and my Redcat 370) are both faster motors you have to go really low on the voltage to get it to go that slow where as the stock 260 will run that slow at a higher voltage... Just a theory but at least you know it is not just yours... Mine acts the same way. I have a hobby wing brushed ESC that I can hook up and see if it acts any different...

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Did you by chance get time to hook your motor up to your other ESC, to see if it was our stock ESC's causing the stutter?
Just curious, as I put it all back together with the 260 motor to get it running again.

Thanks for your help in this matter.

[daBigO]

Hi Scttduk, I only recently had a chance to get to this. I swapped out the stock ESC for a hobbywing brushed 1060 and it was significantly smoother at very low speed. I wasn't planning on changing the stock ESC but after this I have to say that it runs much better with the hobbywing 1060 that I am going to leave it in. They are inexpensive which is cool. I am also starting a couple of other upgrades, I am upgrading to 4 wheel steering, upgrading to a full size servo in the front (will use the stock servo in the rear), updating the mount points of the upper links on the 4link, and the mount points of the shocks at the axles.

I think it will be super good once I'm done. I am hoping to have all the upgrades done sometime next week...

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[daBigO]

Got the 4 wheel steering in along with a full size servo up front. The new hobbywing ESC permanently installed...

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[durok]

^^^ my only comment in the above is to say I would highly recommend cutting off that ancient Tamiya-style battery to ESC connector and use either Deans-style or XT60 plugs. You'll be happier in the long run.

Otherwise, I like where you're headed with that rig!

I don't have any kids of my own, and my younger brother's are already in high school and college - but I want that "Tow Mater" for myself anyway.... I can't get over how great that looks.

Make a working wrecker out of it, next - and drop one of the other movie character bodies on a Tamiya Mini chassis or whatever fits underneath - tow them around.

[daBigO]

Great advice thanks! Yeah I am planning on getting rid of the Tamiya mini plugs but just haven't decided on deans or xt60's yet. Probably deans... I do have a lightning McQueen body mounted on a Redcat Volcano 18. I haven't posted pics here since this is an E16/maxstone thread. But making the tow work and towing McQueen is a great idea!

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[durok]

The "copies" of the original Deans that are available now (ProTek, for example) have slightly changed the shape and added grippers on them that make them MUCH easier to unplug than before.

They will still connect to an original Deans, if the battery comes with them as the T-configuration of the connector is identical.

But, the XT60's are great, too.

Cool - in your next post put a link to a pic of your Lightning McQueen!

Maybe here:

Miscellaneous - Non Crawler RC's at RCCrawler.com

[daBigO]

That sound good, I'll have to look into those protek or similar...
I just made a post on McQueen:
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url...0&share_type=t


Cruising Lightning McQueen - on a volcano 18 chassis

Or feel free to look me up on Instagram under @dabigo_rc

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[daBigO]

Thought I'd share...
Upgraded to 4 wheel steering with a full size 15kg Hexfly in the front and the original servo in back. The ecx servo mounts didn't support the upper links mounts for my original 4link set up so I set it back to the 3link (first pic). Then to redo the 4link i took advice from others in this thread and made a custom skidplate/transmission mount to relocate the lower link mounts improving the 4link geometry. I then moved the upper 4 link upper mounts to work with the ecx full size servo mounts. I'll eventually make custom servo mounts but for now this setup seems pretty good!


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[nedmo]

Hey all.

New here and new to crawlers. All 43 pages of this thread convinced me to buy one of these. But I went for the HSP Kulak version. Comes factory with 4ws steer and a better looking orange ano and body than the exceed/redcat/temper ecx.

Things I have noticed are different/cool on this one.

-Esc is hobbywing waterproof, takes 2s-3s lipo with a jumper to pick between NiMH and lipo.
- 2.4ghz Rx says 6 channel but tx is 3 channel. Tx has a switch for 3rd channel but unless I am mistaken, the 2nd servo takes the 3rd channel???
-Factory 4ws with 4 modes selectable on Tx. Front steer - crab walk - 4ws- rear steer.

Issue so far.
Body fouls everywhere! Have trimmed it alot but still hits tyres when crawling. I think im going to limit the shocks/articulation specially since I have a 1/15 scale new bright LR3 discovery body coming from the US.
Tried opening the trans to add some grease, but only had average quality L hex drivers so stripped the tiny set screw holding the driveshafts. Guess I will need to get some replacements and drill these ones out.
Flipped the trans to try and alleviate torque lift. I think helped a bit.

I have ordered the parts needed to 4 link and am looking for a 370 motor to go in. Lucky I didn't pull the trigger on a 2s lipo now I know it will take a 3s.


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[daBigO]

Nice! Didn't realize there was a version out there that came with 4ws...
A heavier body will definitely make the tt worse. The 4link will help greatly there. It will also help reduce the articulation a little so the tires don't dig into the body so much...

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[nedmo]

Here is the link to the HSP Kulak 4ws I bought from Aliexpress.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/HSP-...675418473.html

[daBigO]

Great price! Love the red! Don't forget to change your shock oil and pre load your springs. It will help with the torque twist. Those servo mounts will work great to modify for the 4link. And since it's already 4ws you won't have to add a rear servo mount. You will probably have to move your shock mounts a bit to fit the four link. Love to see pictures once you have the mods done with the new bright body!

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[nedmo]

I bought the body before having the truck in hand and I think the body will be too small for a true scale look. But will give it a go.

Yeah I followed the parts list on page 17 of this thread, but ordered from a site which does HSP specific parts so the servo links are matching orange!

Yeah I need to get to the LHS and stock up on shock oil and some decent tools. I will also be making some chassis exstension plates to get the shocks mount more vertical. I am going to make a dual mount system so that I can mount laid back for more serious crawling and then mount upright for scale playing.

Here is the body i bought.

[daBigO]

Definitely keep us posted if your progress. I have been looking at these shock extension kits on eBay. I know it's been used on the 10 scale version of the Redcat Everest 10 but not sure it it will work on an the E16
Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/351980714535

I picked up a hoism 1/12 scale body on Amazon for $10 for a more scale look but haven't tried it yet. But with that I will probably want to have a more vertical mount for the shocks as well


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[nedmo]

Yeah nice. I saw something similar on ebay as well. I was thinking of just making scale look frame extensions out of flat stock and having two different ball studs.

[nedmo]

Few more mods tonight.

- Flipped the trans (again?) Confused on which was was stock now. But had to be flipped again from.last nights flipped to fit the electronics upfront under the batter tray.

- Spun battery tray 180 and mounted electronics below.

- Spaced the springs with cable ties. 2x on rear right and one each on other corners. Feels more stable and torque twist is pretty much gone. Previoualy In 4ws mode inside tire would lift on lock turns, now it stays flat.
4 link should fix last handling issues.

Ordered a Turnigy nanotech 2s 1800mah lipo and a redcat racing 370 motor V2



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[nedmo]

And more free mods!

Decided I needed to soften the foams so went with a 16 point cut. I didn't go too deep as I want to be able to do some faster driving (once the rc370 motor gets in) and didn't want the tires deforming to much under acceleration.

I was very glad to find that the beadlocks are functional and they hadn't inexplicably glued the tires on!

Also, went through my random bag of screws from too many IKEA builds and had 4x perfect washers to put behind the drive pins to take the bit of slop out of the stock setup. Now the wheels are super tight!! Might need to get a couple of servo savers cause there is no give in the system anymore.

I have been looking into a fullsize servo conversion and some waterproof servos. Found some great looking thunder tigers which are metal geared and cheap!! Need to order two of the ECX servo mounts which are full size. Luckily, there's an Australia eBay hobby store with them in stock!!! Bonus!

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