MaX-D's Wroncho Build

[MaX-D]

Does it matter what side the tie rod goes to. I had it in the stock position connected to the right wheel, but the chassis hits the tie rod not allowing full Flex on the right side. The chassis hits the truss right above the pumpkin on the left side which would be about the same spot that it would hit the steering tie rod. I had to flip the servo around, and I will have to put a Jato rod end on as the tie rod is a little short.
Is this a bad thing to run your steering on the left side instead of the right? Does it matter?

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[B-MOW71]

I don’t think it matters as long as you get full lock to lock and the linkage clears.

I swapped the servo location on my GCM J2 Skeleton and I didn’t have any problems.


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[MaX-D]

Originally Posted by B-MOW71

I don’t think it matters as long as you get full lock to lock and the linkage clears.



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Thanks. Good to know. The one thing I didn't check was to see if the tie rod would clear the pumpkin at full lock to the left. I'll check that tonight before I put everything back together. Thanks for the idea.
The chassis, the bumper, and the steering are the few hiccups that I've had with this project. Other than that it's been smooth.
I'm also learning how to properly solder. I truly suck at it, so I bought 20 pairs of 4mm bullet connectors both male and female (Amass brand) to practice with as I need to solder on female connectors to my WP 1080 ESC. I figure if I screw up half of them, I still have 10 left. I tried 3 last night. The first one was horrible. I used way too much solder, but the second and third one got better. I'll do 4 or 5 tonight. Practice makes better.


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[smog]

Soldering is definitely a developed skill. One I have not fully realized. Having a crappy iron can definitely impede the process. It’s so important to get the tinned connector or wire properly heated before hitting it with the solder. With a crappy iron(I have had too many) getting the heat can be challenging

[MaX-D]

Originally Posted by smog

Soldering is definitely a developed skill. One I have not fully realized. Having a crappy iron can definitely impede the process. It’s so important to get the tinned connector or wire properly heated before hitting it with the solder. With a crappy iron(I have had too many) getting the heat can be challenging

I've had a brand new soldering iron for well over a year sitting in a drawer. I found it on Amazon for $25. The iron itself is digital and you can set the temperature that you want. It only reads in Celsius oh, so I set it for 395 degrees Celsius which is 743 degrees Fahrenheit. I watched a video on YouTube about it. Heating up the connector is easy. Heating The Wire, waiting for it to heat up and then put soldering to it is where I struggle. I have a boat load of 12 gauge wire left over from jobs at work.
So far the soldering iron seems to work pretty well. Time will tell. If not, I'll upgrade to a better one, probably in the $80 range

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[smog]

Originally Posted by MaX-D

I've had a brand new soldering iron for well over a year sitting in a drawer. I found it on Amazon for $25. The iron itself is digital and you can set the temperature that you want. It only reads in Celsius oh, so I set it for 395 degrees Celsius which is 743 degrees Fahrenheit. I watched a video on YouTube about it. Heating up the connector is easy. Heating The Wire, waiting for it to heat up and then put soldering to it is where I struggle. I have a boat load of 12 gauge wire left over from jobs at work.
So far the soldering iron seems to work pretty well. Time will tell. If not, I'll upgrade to a better one, probably in the $80 range

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If the iron is maintaining its temperature you should be good. I just find crappy irons often stop maintaining their temperature before too long. I find using a broader tip helpful for heavier gauges as well.

[MaX-D]

Originally Posted by smog

If the iron is maintaining its temperature you should be good. I just find crappy irons often stop maintaining their temperature before too long. I find using a broader tip helpful for heavier gauges as well.

When I upgrade, what is a good soldering iron to get? Any ideas?

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[B-MOW71]

I’m fairly good at soldering, but I struggled with cheap irons until I bought this one. It heats up in seconds and hold temp. Super easy to use.




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[ScaleLifeNewbie]

I struggle with soldering too, maybe my iron is the problem. It’s a non adjustable stick iron Weller. I’ll definitely need to upgrade soon as well.


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[MaX-D]

Originally Posted by B-MOW71

I’m fairly good at soldering, but I struggled with cheap irons until I bought this one. It heats up in seconds and hold temp. Super easy to use.




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Thank you sir.

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[B-MOW71]

Originally Posted by MaX-D

Thank you sir.

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[smog]

Originally Posted by MaX-D

When I upgrade, what is a good soldering iron to get? Any ideas?

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I am not a good person to ask about soldering irons, bought too much crap My current iron is working well, and so my soldering of late has been good. Time will tell if I got it right this time. It is branded ToAuto FT-80W. It has a sea of positive user ratings so I picked it up. I would go with Brian’s suggestion above.

Originally Posted by ScaleLifeNewbie

I struggle with soldering too, maybe my iron is the problem. It’s a non adjustable stick iron Weller. I’ll definitely need to upgrade soon as well.


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Weller would typically be considered a good quality, but yeah could be it’s spent or just doesnt produce the required heat for heavier gauge wire

[xtreme4x2]

I use this propane iron off Amazon. I also use a 2 clip stand to hold wires or whatever else.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DIE9BO...p_mob_ap_share

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[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Originally Posted by smog

I am not a good person to ask about soldering irons, bought too much crap My current iron is working well, and so my soldering of late has been good. Time will tell if I got it right this time. It is branded ToAuto FT-80W. It has a sea of positive user ratings so I picked it up. I would go with Brian’s suggestion above.


Weller would typically be considered a good quality, but yeah could be it’s spent or just doesnt produce the required heat for heavier gauge wire

I got it new about 2 months ago and only used it about 3-4 times. Maybe it’s me? Who knows lol.


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[MaX-D]

Getting closer. Just have to paint the hood Satin black, and tint the windows. The Axial emblem will be gloss black. I trimmed around it with an Exacto knife to leave the overspray film on it.
Don't know if I'm going to tint the windshield to hide the wires. I'm probably not going to put an interior in it. Any thoughts?

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[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Looking good! I like the Axial emblem!

As for windows, I would tint them since you’re not doing an interior. I personally hate seeing wires and I’m going to do an interior on my clear window body.


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[MaX-D]

Originally Posted by ScaleLifeNewbie

Looking good! I like the Axial emblem!

As for windows, I would tint them since you’re not doing an interior. I personally hate seeing wires and I’m going to do an interior on my clear window body.


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Thanks. I'll tint the windshield.

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[MaX-D]

I needed more steering while the suspension was under compression, so I took out the silver shock standoff. I've got about 2-3mm of clearance. It gave, but it gave me 5-6mm of more steering.

Before

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[MaX-D]

After.

I also changed the steering tie rod to the drivers side

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[MaX-D]

At post #128 I talked about droop and how I'm losing about half of my shock from the weight. Is this normal? Finally, here's some pics.

First pic is full extension. Second pic is the truck sitting normally with a 3s 2200mah battery.

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