How to do the narrow XR10 mod to Axial axles

[Shinjari]

Originally Posted by Hardline

Equal length is correct. AX30563. This is a really nice write up on the narrow install, but I'm trying to relate it to the full-axle install. It seems both techniques widen the front track about 1/2" so I have to conclude that they use different wheel offsets to come out about the same. The narrow install must use AX10 offset wheels and the wide install must use XR10 offset wheels. Or am I missing something? Anyone have a link to a similarly well-written full-axle XR10 steering conversion?

I inquired some of the masterminds behind this mod while trying to determine whether to do the wider or narrow version of the mod and here is what I've learned.

If you get the long beef tubes so you can use the xr-10 axles without cutting them it will widen the track roughly 1.25".

If you use the short beef tubes or the stock ax10 housing it only widens it roughly 1/2".

Also on here they show the mod with the longer tubes http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axles...e-back-15.html

This build did the longer beef tubes and didnt cut the xr-10 axles
TTC Build

[Hardline]

Originally Posted by Shinjari

I inquired some of the masterminds behind this mod while trying to determine whether to do the wider or narrow version of the mod and here is what I've learned.

If you get the long beef tubes so you can use the xr-10 axles without cutting them it will widen the track roughly 1.25".

If you use the short beef tubes or the stock ax10 housing it only widens it roughly 1/2".

Also on here they show the mod with the longer tubes http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axles...e-back-15.html

This build did the longer beef tubes and didnt cut the xr-10 axles
TTC Build

Yeah, I knew of the first link. I'll look thru the other, thanks.

As far as track width, that's where the wheels come in. My stock XR10 is about the same width as my AX10. When you do the XR10 steering mod to an AX10 axle, the shafts touch in the middle. So obviously it can be the same track width as a stock XR10 if you use XR10 offset wheels. So I think you only get the 1.25" increase if you don't change wheel offsets.

[4ONDFLR]

Will this mod work with Wraith knuckles and C's with the XR universals? Instead of getting XR knuckles and C's

[Erin]

Originally Posted by 4ONDFLR

Will this mod work with Wraith knuckles and C's with the XR universals? Instead of getting XR knuckles and C's

Yes, but I would suggest Chris the battery mans splined tubes

[Tommy R]

Hey Tim,

I suppose it doesn't matter what knuckles/c's are used? In other words XR10, SCX/AX10, or other 8 degree style components from other manufacturers should all interchange with this setup?

Thanks!
Tommy

[Shinjari]

Originally Posted by Tommy R

Hey Tim,

I suppose it doesn't matter what knuckles/c's are used? In other words XR10, SCX/AX10, or other 8 degree style components from other manufacturers should all interchange with this setup?

Thanks!
Tommy

Not sure if the AX10/scx10 8* chubs will work with the xr10/wraith knuckles.

[Tommy R]

Originally Posted by Shinjari

Not sure if the AX10/scx10 8* chubs will work with the xr10/wraith knuckles.

Maybe I wasn't clear. I'm not looking to mix/match knuckles/c's intended for different models. I know many won't. What I'm interested in is if a knuckle/c combo from an SCX10 would work for this mod? Likewise for an XR10, etc.

[eric113]

Originally Posted by Tommy R

Maybe I wasn't clear. I'm not looking to mix/match knuckles/c's intended for different models. I know many won't. What I'm interested in is if a knuckle/c combo from an SCX10 would work for this mod? Likewise for an XR10, etc.

Are you asking if ax/scx chubs and knuckles will work with xr universals ? If so, Ax/scx chubs & knuckles will not work with xr universals. Due the joint being longer than cvd bell if that makes sense ?

[Tommy R]

Originally Posted by eric113

Are you asking if ax/scx chubs and knuckles will work with xr universals ? If so, Ax/scx chubs & knuckles will not work with xr universals. Due the joint being longer than cvd bell if that makes sense ?

That makes perfect sense and is exactly why I was asking. Thanks, Eric! So XR10 knuckles/c's are needed. I assume Wraith stuff would also work? I think they're effectively the same, right?

[4xFord]

Originally Posted by Tommy R

That makes perfect sense and is exactly why I was asking. Thanks, Eric! So XR10 knuckles/c's are needed. I assume Wraith stuff would also work? I think they're effectively the same, right?

Exactly

[eric113]

Originally Posted by Tommy R

That makes perfect sense and is exactly why I was asking. Thanks, Eric! So XR10 knuckles/c's are needed. I assume Wraith stuff would also work? I think they're effectively the same, right?

Correct you can use xr or wraith knuckles. Most people use wraith knuckles. Another option is if you want do it on cheap use stock xr chubs and knuckles. You can flip the knuckles around and make you own arms.

[Shinjari]

Originally Posted by eric113

Correct you can use xr or wraith knuckles. Most people use wraith knuckles. Another option is if you want do it on cheap use stock xr chubs and knuckles. You can flip the knuckles around and make you own arms.

When you say make your own arms you mean the plates that you bolt on the knuckle like these?



Also Unless I intend to do BTA steering, I can eliminate the arms on the 'back' of the xr-10 knuckle since the steering on my scx10 is on the front and would use the plates/arms up front right?

[eric113]

Originally Posted by Shinjari

When you say make your own arms you mean the plates that you bolt on the knuckle like these? Also Unless I intend to do BTA steering, I can eliminate the arms on the 'back' of the xr-10 knuckle since the steering on my scx10 is on the front and would use the plates/arms up front right?

Yes to both.

[WAM]

Originally Posted by eric113

Correct you can use xr or wraith knuckles. Most people use wraith knuckles. Another option is if you want do it on cheap use stock xr chubs and knuckles. You can flip the knuckles around and make you own arms.

AFAIK, the XR10 and Wraith have identical C hubs and knuckles. But if you get the VP knuckles, the Wraith piece is substantially changed from the stock design and has a single shear arm vs the double-shear, allowing more steering angle. Someone correct me if I have it wrong. (Cause I have those parts on order)

[eric113]

Originally Posted by WAM

AFAIK, the XR10 and Wraith have identical C hubs and knuckles. But if you get the VP knuckles, the Wraith piece is substantially changed from the stock design and has a single shear arm vs the double-shear, allowing more steering angle. Someone correct me if I have it wrong. (Cause I have those parts on order)

The chubs are the same between the two. VP wraith knuckles would be the ones to get.

[Shinjari]

Did this over the weekend and its great. My JK has a 13" wheel base and had a huge diameter turning circle aat Max turning/lock was something like 8-9 ft.

After installing the xr10/wraith steering mod it nearly cut that in half! My turning circle is now just under 5ft! Could be tighter if my tires didn't hit the shocks. Lol

[Mr.Joshua]

Hey Shinjari-what did you end up using for tubes? Did you use the AX-10 housing? Just curious about the track width (since your are rubbing).
Thanks

[Shinjari]

Well I run stock ax10/scx10 axle housing, stock aka plastic xr10 chubs, knuckles and universals. Standard beef tubes and felsenfest no slop locker.

The track width is a hair wider wider and the reasonmy wheels rub rub is that my new bright JK has a custom chassis is wider than a scx10 chassis and thus has the shocks mounted on the outside of the lower mount (closer to the end of the axle/wheels etc) on the axle so that's what's causing the rubbing despite my CAC offset wheels. If the shocks were mounted inside of the lower mount like on a normal scx10 chassis then I'd get that much more turning out of it and most likely not have the rubbing issue.

Ill measure and take pics later. But if I recall, no remember I have offset wheels. Front was 10" 1/8" in front and 9"3/4" in the rear. Thought about narrowing the front....but that would just increase the rubbing resulting in me having to limit my EPA's and thus limiting the steering even more than I already have to.

Some.pics to help with visuals. The dirty axle is a standard axle.

Sorry no steering pic with links lol. Just the pee-pee dance stance.

Also I cut the extra tabs off the back of the knuckles since I'm not doing BTA steering.

Also to avoid needing to bend my steerig link I used a 6mm spare to clear the pumpkin.

More pics soon.

[Mr.Joshua]

^^ nice pics Shinjari...helps alot
I was curious about how much of a spacer would be needed or if you had to bend the steering linkage around the housing.
Good call on cutting off the tabs on the back of the knuckles...any worries about running plastic hardware for steering?

That's insane how much the turning radius improved!

[Shinjari]

Originally Posted by Mr.Joshua

^^ nice pics Shinjari...helps alot
I was curious about how much of a spacer would be needed or if you had to bend the steering linkage around the housing.
Good call on cutting off the tabs on the back of the knuckles...any worries about running plastic hardware for steering?

That's insane how much the turning radius improved!

I'd say a 8-10mm spacer if you use stock axial xr-10 knuckles and want to clear the pumpkin without bending.

If you use VP knuckles then I believe you won't need the spacers or a very small one since they put the plate higher on the knuckle than stock I think. I did not bend the steering link, doesn't look scale hehe.

I wanted to run plastic to test it, plus $15 is much better than investing $90 for VP parts right off the bat.