04-03-2020, 10:35 AM | #101 |
SORRCA Committee Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Parkston, SD
Posts: 4,523
| Re: SCX10-III: Things to know before you build yours (Tips)
Here are some pictures....... |
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04-03-2020, 11:46 AM | #102 | |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Espoo, Finland
Posts: 150
| Re: SCX10-III: Things to know before you build yours (Tips) Quote:
I tore everything apart starting from the spur inwards, but not the dig-side. Everything looked A-OK. There is no ticking sound when there is no load on the system. Even when all the axels are connected. Only when I touch one tire (doesn't matter which) on the table, running them slowly (=system gets some load), then the ticking sound starts. I'm beginning to think it's just some backlash from all the 2-speed engagement things etc. I could find nothing wrong with anything in the trans. Maybe I should just slab that trans completey full of grease, to dampen the sound if nothing else | |
04-03-2020, 01:06 PM | #103 |
Newbie Join Date: Apr 2020 Location: Brenham
Posts: 22
| Re: SCX10-III: Things to know before you build yours (Tips)
I’ll try to get into it tonight, I don’t really like how sloppy the top shaft is so I’ll prob make one from 4140 like I did for my Capra. there’s got to be something it’s so constant and steady while under load , maybe the engines got a bad rod bearing |
04-03-2020, 01:17 PM | #104 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Princeton, North Carolina, USA
Posts: 1,499
| Re: SCX10-III: Things to know before you build yours (Tips) |
04-03-2020, 10:06 PM | #105 |
Newbie Join Date: Apr 2020 Location: Brenham
Posts: 22
| Re: SCX10-III: Things to know before you build yours (Tips)
I know this is long but I’m not a great teacher and am trying to explain so you can make sense of my ramblings. I disassembled the whole trans , looking at the top (spur gear) shaft, there is a funny wear pattern in the shafts black coating from the gear being loose on the shaft and also wear from spinning inside the bearings. I say wear, it’s only the coating not into the steel, but enough to let me know that things are too loose seeing as this thing has less than 10 minutes on it. No time to make a shaft so I did some improvised knurling with my automatic center punch, drove a old bearing on over the punch marks and drove it back off. Near zero slop in the shaft and gear now but admittedly the gear/shaft prob aren’t running perfectly true. The other issue I found is all the bearing pockets are loose. I wasn’t sure how loctite gel would do in this case so I used a thin plastic bag cut into 3/4” squares. Put a square on top of the pocket and shoved the bearings in, nice and tight! Trim the excess with the hobby knife and the center where necessary. I reassembled per the instructions with grease same as before. When I installed the motor and ran it the gear mesh was noisy, better with the clamping screws loose. So I set the mesh on 15 for 14t gear and it was better with the screws tight. Next, we all know there are good/better pinions, I swapped to a diff brand 13t pinion gear set to 14 and it’s a lot better. Will run it tomorrow and see how she sounds but on the bench it’s a huge improvement so far. Any suggestions, comments, ridicule are all welcome !!!!
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04-04-2020, 12:24 AM | #106 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: North to Alaska - go north, the rush is on....
Posts: 999
| Re: SCX10-III: Things to know before you build yours (Tips)
Nothing wrong with this improvising, seems to be the nature of the beast... I’m sure there will be revisions and aftermarket cases available at some point.
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04-04-2020, 10:17 AM | #107 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Deep in the Everglades
Posts: 5,818
| Re: SCX10-III: Things to know before you build yours (Tips)
Well I did figure out what was causing the awful noises...... was not anything in the transmission, acmes , or powertrain. It was the stupid hard front body clip pulls, rubbing on the tires when turning!! I adjusted the position, and will replace with some soft pulls from proline that I have. I adjusted the dig servo... zeros at 1:00 for disengaged rear, perfect 70/30 EP for 3 positions of dig. Hang up and Drive |
04-04-2020, 05:35 PM | #108 |
Newbie Join Date: Apr 2020 Location: Brenham
Posts: 22
| Re: SCX10-III: Things to know before you build yours (Tips)
I got mine reassembled but haven’t driven it yet, will see as soon as possible
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04-05-2020, 12:25 AM | #109 | |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Derbyshire UK
Posts: 623
| Re: SCX10-III: Things to know before you build yours (Tips) Quote:
My lever seems a little bit too tight even with the pivot screw backed out a bit | |
04-05-2020, 12:48 AM | #110 |
Newbie Join Date: Apr 2020 Location: Brenham
Posts: 22
| Re: SCX10-III: Things to know before you build yours (Tips)
Well the clicking was still there after installing it and putting tires on the ground. I’ve been thinking about it, it’s approx 3 clicks per rev of the driveshaft. There is clicking with dig/rear output removed (fwd only) There is clicking with transfer case gears removed (rwd only) There is clicking in both high and low There is clicking with motor/pinion removed and a load on trans What does that leave? Only the 2 27t gears up front The bore of the gear (both) is not parallel to the OD of the gears, as they rotate the pressure being at a angle now is making the gears slide on their shafts clicking as they hit the bearings. I added a .2mm shim to each shaft, and on the bench installed, under enough load to wrinkle the sidewalls and overload the HW1080 there is no more clicking. If it’s not raining here tomorrow I’ll get out and run it a couple packs, if raining I’ll beat on the drivetrain indoors on the carpet and see how it does!!! |
04-05-2020, 01:00 AM | #111 | |
Moderator Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: PA
Posts: 13,935
| Re: SCX10-III: Things to know before you build yours (Tips) Quote:
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04-05-2020, 06:31 AM | #112 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Deep in the Everglades
Posts: 5,818
| Re: SCX10-III: Things to know before you build yours (Tips) Quote:
Chamfering is a simple process of tapering the end of the hole. As the part isn’t threaded, starting without tapping can be a pain. A simple spin of your #11 blade in the hole make it easier Hang up and Drive | |
04-05-2020, 05:32 PM | #113 | |
Newbie Join Date: Apr 2019 Location: puerto real
Posts: 3
| Re: SCX10-III: Things to know before you build yours (Tips) Quote:
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04-05-2020, 06:17 PM | #114 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Jun 2018 Location: Florida
Posts: 71
| Re: SCX10-III: Things to know before you build yours (Tips)
I hope you will be able to buy a gear for single speed conversion and help take the slack out of the trans.
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04-05-2020, 07:33 PM | #115 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Frog Lake AB, Canada
Posts: 696
| Re: SCX10-III: Things to know before you build yours (Tips)
Um, are any of the chassis parts compatible with the SCX10.II? It would be nice to have that trans+skid plate, servo bracket for my Jeep, as well as my 6x6.
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04-06-2020, 01:58 AM | #116 |
Newbie Join Date: Apr 2020 Location: Brenham
Posts: 22
| Re: SCX10-III: Things to know before you build yours (Tips) |
04-06-2020, 03:45 AM | #117 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Derbyshire UK
Posts: 623
| Re: SCX10-III: Things to know before you build yours (Tips) |
04-06-2020, 07:34 AM | #118 |
Newbie Join Date: Apr 2020 Location: Brenham
Posts: 22
| Re: SCX10-III: Things to know before you build yours (Tips)
I’m not allowed to post attachments. I added them on the two shafts with the identical 27tooth gears, between the gear and bearing on the side opposite the drive pins to be sure there wouldn’t be any interference. I tried .3mm shims to start with but it was too much and put the trans in a bind. I switched to .2mm shims and it added a very slight amount of drag but nothing to worry about. I use tamiya shims from kit number OP-587. |
04-06-2020, 09:54 AM | #119 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 3,643
| Re: SCX10-III: Things to know before you build yours (Tips)
Got up to finishing Step F yesterday. I did not have a m3 tap to use for the shock towers to mount the shocks, so I did something different. I took the supplied black grease and squirted a little bit into the hole. After that the screws seemed to go in just fine without fear of breaking them while still being very snug and tight. I did thread the hole with just the black grease and screw first before mounting the shocks though. Last edited by soze; 04-06-2020 at 09:56 AM. |
04-06-2020, 10:01 AM | #120 | |
Newbie Join Date: May 2015 Location: Germany
Posts: 22
| Re: SCX10-III: Things to know before you build yours (Tips) Quote:
The M3 tap will produce overlarged holes, so the screws will wobble. | |
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