Got my Yeti today, not impressed at all so far...

[Johnnysplits]

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

Rtr means ready to run out of the box

a.k.a. Ready to replace, Ready to rebuild lol

[Duuuuuuuude]

Originally Posted by Johnnysplits

a.k.a. Ready to replace, Ready to rebuild lol

Ready to repine seems more appropriate in this instance. Look it up if you have to.

[micro racer]

Originally Posted by Johnnysplits

a.k.a. Ready to replace, Ready to rebuild lol

Ready to Read... the manual before anything else.

I agree; it does say RTR. However, it doesn't say Maintenance Free.

[Meatwad]

Its always a balance of price vs. performance. The cost of better wheels and possibly better qc for loctited all factory screws would've made people cry, now to meet the price point things had to be compromised and made people cry. At least you won't possibly die from a faulty ignition switch..

Everybody needs to keep the lights on, coke and hookers are expensive.. add your own tight ass or rich ceo cliche you want. It's about doing business and we are getting innovative toy trucks here.

[if0rg0t2remember]

I'm going to weigh in since I've had mine since Thursday mid day and I have 3 packs through it.

First thing I did when I got it was resolder the connector to TRX style to fit my stock of 3S batteries and then check the set screws. Let me preface this by saying that the set screw on the front output shaft from the transmission is a bitch to actually get out without removing the motor, so I pulled the ESC and got in there enough to be confident it was tight but couldn't get it all the way out to put some loctite on (my fault).

First and second pack had no no issues other than vague steering. Today on the third pack I finally lost the pin to the front driveshaft. (It was some hard bashing, launching off stumps and flinging it up hillsides) I'm sure my initiial check got me that far, but I really should have loctited it. I guess I was too excited to pull the entire motor out. Unfortunately it uses a bigger pin than the SCX10 because I have spares of those. Yes, pins backing out of drive shafts is a common issue for Axial vehicles.

I stopped running when I lost my front end, but I can already see the hubs starting to strip out. I knew that was a replacement part, I already have SLW hubs on order and already have spare hexes. I'm not upset and I'm sure once its running the factory hubs will last at least one or two more packs.

About the actual performance, it is just what I expected. Do I think it can handle everything you see in those promo videos out of the box... YES. Notice they are always going down big smooth hills then hitting well groomed jumps. The stock suspension is great for that, heck it won't even bottom out the chassis. Its throttling up and over rocks that will ruin the hubs (something we will all do but it isn't in the promos). The only real disappointment is the steering, held back mostly by the plastic rods and lack of bearings. The net effect is it is so vague and soft. They definitely improved the rack itself from the EXO, but made it worse by not even including the metal rods and oilite bearings the EXO RTR had. 1 step forward 2 steps back. Tires are given as bad on any RTR except the Summit if you ask me...

TL;DR I see about the same number of issues of any RTR so far and 3 packs before they showed themselves isn't horrible. The only thing actually bothersome is the steering.

[pook]

I got mine Yesterday, on a whim when passing threw the hobby shop, put a 6 cell 5000ma batter in it and played down my gravel rd, guess 3s is preferred haha but after reading this trend I went check the loose parts and yea drive shafts and hub were backing out no biggie just some lock tight and should be good, but just like any thing that is built it needs to be checked, you buy new wheels or a lift kit your suppose to recheck after install, hell some 3rd world kid is probably putting these together and I don't think the price is bad for what you get, you got to factor those little kids about 50$ a day right


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[k9popo]

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

Professional drivers on closed courses always make things look good.

after a 4 page read I can tell your an asshole...*

Hell I remember piecing together a TLT, Pede, random shocks no beadlocks, trying out random links, no spectrum and being $1000 into it...

Axial has answered all our answers with their products... Sure there can always be improvement but that's where our creativity and ingenuity come in to make them our own... My Yeti is on it's way while I sit on parts waiting for it based on the opinions (like this one) that needed attention and how I want it built... I'm a average everyday Joe that will upgrade things as needed so it handles and competes the way I want it to...

I appreciate your views and concerns as everyone else who received a pre release cause without them we'd have to find out things for ourselves then we'd be really pissed lol...

Just my .02

[Duuuuuuuude]

Originally Posted by k9popo

after a 4 page read I can tell your an asshole...*

Indeed, sir.

[Steelfish]

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

Professional drivers on closed courses always make things look good.

thats my point..



I really interested on see some big jumps, the many bad landings and some rock bouncing/racing and see the breakable parts specially from a non pro driver and not biased review/experiences.


having few years here so far, I know that many of the hardcore RCC guys here can also made any axial rig look good too, even if they are not 100% biased or axial tester guys.

[elbo]

Originally Posted by k9popo

Just my .02

TLT kits, Pede transmissions, Narrowed Pede wheels, MFM swiss cheese chassis, Boyer chassis, the x-trail chassis, the compensator builds, JasonInAugusta, Full droop, semi droop, Nat's F-toy, Hulkwerks, etc.

This was the stuff that made RCCrawler. This place feels like Pirate4x4 does now.


OP, use this as a lesson and use your resources. If this is your first kit, I can somewhat understand your frustration. If not, delete thread.

[rm25x]

Nope I am glad I started this thread. I have been into the hobby since 1987 and have worked at or helped several hobby shops over the years. Not everyone is a seasoned r/c "pro". That's why I post things from a new to the hobby customer's standpoint.

Am I keeping this truck? Hell yeah.

Am I going to upgrade the shit out of it? Yup. Just like I have done with every other Axial product I have owned over the years.

Would I recommend it to others? Sure, but I am going to point out what to look out for, and what they should replace or buy for spares.

Originally Posted by fyrstormer

I revised your first post to improve clarity.

You mean my $299 Traxxas Stampede 4x4 that is two months old and has been beat on my countless kids and friends, that runs the same top speed as the Yeti?


I love how most people are smart enough to understand the whole point of my post. Now they know what to expect with this truck and what to look out for. Great, thanks for having enough intelligence to understand that I was merely pointing out my first run impressions with this new $430 RTR toy that hopefully helps to bring even more new people into our hobby.

To the other guys with their head's up Axial's ass who thinks that every person new to the hobby is going to rebuild the entire truck (Which remember was released as a RTR (Ready to RUN for those of you who are confused by the acronym), although not sure how they would since Axial didn't include a full instruction manual...) before they ever put a battery into it...

[C-MuRdaA]

I lost my front wheel drive by throwing my center shaft pin, read this thread too late.
Will the Traxxas 5189 pins I have laying around be a proper replacement? The Axial part is 4mmx2.5x12. Does the 2.5 number refer to the shaft size? The Traxxas pins are 4mm threads 2.5mm shaft and 13mm long.
I won't be home to see if the Traxxas parts physically fit until Tuesday but I'd like to order the right parts if I need to.

[rm25x]

It's not a pin, it's a set screw. 4x4 mm is the size I used. There's not a hole for a pin to go through that I could see using a flashlight to line the flat spot back up. I popped the esc out of the holder to give myself a little more room. Make sure to put threadlock on it.

[C-MuRdaA]

Ok cool thanks. I guess I need to order a few.

[rm25x]

Any hardware store / Home Depot / Lowes ect should have them too.

[Johnnysplits]

I don't care what you buy RTR, be it a car, truck, boat, plane, or heli, you can't just take it out of the box, throw a battery in it and give it hell. You really have to go over every nut and screw to be sure they're secure...even more so with aircraft. The other thing is that you can't really expect plastic parts to last long...especially considering how a lot of people drive these things. Most RTR electronics are shit too. So the moral of this story is, always wait for the kit!!

[Duuuuuuuude]

Originally Posted by rm25x

I love how most people are smart enough to understand the whole point of my post. Now they know what to expect with this truck and what to look out for. Great, thanks for having enough intelligence to understand that I was merely pointing out my first run impressions with this new $430 RTR toy that hopefully helps to bring even more new people into our hobby.

A person would think that someone with your experience would know better than to bash a rig right out of the box.

Your attempt at being helpful came off as you looking like a noob with a pouty lip. if0rg0t2remember essentially said the same thing you did but did so in a much more adult-like manner.

Originally Posted by rm25x

To the other guys with their head's up Axial's ass who thinks that every person new to the hobby is going to rebuild the entire truck (Which remember was released as a RTR (Ready to RUN for those of you who are confused by the acronym), although not sure how they would since Axial didn't include a full instruction manual...) before they ever put a battery into it...

All of the manuals I have on hand tell you to check fasteners before operation. Of those, the two Axial manuals I have say that on page 2. Taking 5 minutes out of your life to ensure everything is as it should be before plugging a battery into it is not that big of a deal, and a really good idea if you don't want some kind of premature failure.

[grimacium]

Thanks for the real world review. Plenty of people like to sugar coat their shiny new purchase in any hobby and it's rarely helpful other than to sooth their own ego or justify the cash they laid out. Hopefully you get it fixed and in a state you're happy with.

[fyrstormer]

Originally Posted by rm25x

You mean my $299 Traxxas Stampede 4x4 that is two months old and has been beat on my countless kids and friends, that runs the same top speed as the Yeti?

Two years, two months, whatever. The Yeti is a brand-new vehicle, whereas the Stampede has been around for years and the first-run problems have all been fixed at the factory. And you've had yours long enough to tune it the way you like.

You expected perfection straight out of the box and you were disappointed. This just in from the Huge Surprise To Nobody newsdesk...

Originally Posted by rm25x

To the other guys with their head's up Axial's ass who thinks that every person new to the hobby is going to rebuild the entire truck (Which remember was released as a RTR (Ready to RUN for those of you who are confused by the acronym), although not sure how they would since Axial didn't include a full instruction manual...) before they ever put a battery into it...

RTR has always come with the caveat that you have to double-check the vehicle to make sure the underpaid drone at the factory actually assembled it correctly. There is no cost-effective way to have expert builders build these vehicles, and then have other expert builders double-check everything. In fact, for a few decades the only way to get a hobby-grade RC was to buy it unassembled and put it together yourself. The fact that RTR exists at all is a pleasant convenience, but the onus always falls on the buyer to make sure the product is correctly assembled. You can bash straight out of the box, but you should expect something to come loose if you do.

[rm25x]

I have Vanquish hex's coming, going to try them on the stock wheels with the Axial hex's. Also have a rc4wd warn winch and controller for it to mount up while I wait for parts. We have a comp coming up next Sunday, going to see if I can have it running by then to give it another shake down.