Team Brood Motor Tech Thread

[Colgout]

???

[EddieO]

Sally having fun with banners I guess.

Sorry not a lot of pics lately. I have some new stuff going up in a few days. New motors for Krawlfreaks Super......along with first pics of the Foresaken. Conflux motors are about to hit after some delays, so I will be showing the different can styles and such here shortly.

Later EddieO

[sally1800]

Originally Posted by EddieO

Sally having fun with banners I guess.


Later EddieO

Sorry

I tried to move it did know it would loose it link.

Brian

[EddieO]

Here is a few motors that went out to a customer.

First up is a pair of Stubby motors.

Conflux Stubby Cans with rust preventive coating
FB9 Quad Magnets With Shaved Tips
35t Type HHK-T Armature Epoxy balanced 7.5mm comm
Standup brushes, Team Springs w/ insulation
Ceramic Bearings
Lightened Endbell with lightweight endbell parts including 1g Alloy Timing Ring









Next up was a motor for his shafty. I changed it up some to match the needs of shafty.

Conflux Stubby Can with rust preventive coating
FB12 Dual Magnets With Shaved Tips
35t Type HHK-T Armature Epoxy balanced 7.5mm comm
Standup brushes, Team Springs w/ insulation
Ceramic Bearings
Lightened Endbell parts







Later EddieO

[ittybitty]

Nice work Eddie...always good to see a breakdown of the specs on motors

[EddieO]

First up is a pair of Conflux Stubbies...

Conflux Stubby Can with Rust Preventive Coating
Dual FB12 Magnets with ground rear tips
30t HHK-T Epoxy Balanced Armature
Lightweight Endbell Parts
Ceramic Bearings
Standup 729 Brushes
Extra Firm Team Springs with Insulation

I left the hood heatsinks whole and put full heatsinks on, as I know these motors get ran in high heat areas.





The next set of motors is a pair I have been working on for a while, nearly 2 years. I built a set of these a while back using neo magnets. Even though they were high temp, the motor performed like crap. Small thin NEOs simply can't dissipate heat properly, so regardless of how high temp they are, they end up failing. I shelved the project and went searching for better magnets.

Finally, I found a magnet company who could produce a cobalt magnet to my specs for a reasonable price.

Introducing the Sisu. Basically an Axle Buster meets stubby....

This set is going to Krawlfreak for his super, though they are gonna get tried in his 2.2p for giggles.

Specs on them

Conflux Stubby Can Rust Preventive Coating
35t 28mm Stubby arm Drill Balanced Ground, Polished, Dyed
Dual CB20 Magnets
Ceramic Bearings
Team Extra Firm Springs with Insulation
Custom Team Lightweight Spring Posts
729 Standup Brushes
Custom Team Lightweight Heatsinks

Each Motor weighs around 154 grams. Extra weight comes from the 28mm armature along with cobalt magnets being heavy.

Motors were sick on the dyno. Great RPM, Power, while the Torque is nuts with great drag brake.





















Later EddieO

[EeePee]

Almost jealous.

[TEDROCKZ]

Good looking set of motors!

[Grimreeper]

Those sounds awesome. Could we possibly see a standard size motor with the cobalt magnets? Just curious. Maybe it would bring down the cost for those of us with somewhat limited pocket books.

[EddieO]

The Axle Buster uses the same magnets. They will be available hopefully by the end of the month. I have the magnets and arms, just waiting on the cans from my machinists.

The Conflux and Foresaken both will have the option for regular size Cobalt magnets.

Here is a pic of them installed






Both motors should be released in about 10 days.

Later EddieO

[EddieO]

New goodies going out the door.


First a set of Stubbies (Conflux version) for Hulksta

FB9 Quad Magnets
Stubby .020 Can Coated
729 Standup Brushes
Team Springs with Insulation
Lightweight Spring posts, Elimination Screws, Endbell Screws, and Timing Ring
30t HHK-T Armature Epoxy Balanced







Another pair of Stubbies


FB9 Quad Magnets
Stubby Can Coated
729 Standup Brushes
Team Springs with Insulation
Lightweight Spring posts, Elimination Screws, Endbell Screws, and Timing Ring
35t HHK-T Armature Epoxy Balanced



And a set of bad boy Conflux. Weight was not a huge issue here, so the customer went with the new CB20 Cobalt magnets for ultimate torque. Only a pic of one, as I can't put them close enough together without the magnets wanting to dry hump each other instantly.

CB20 Dual Magnets w/ Flattened Tips
Conflux .020 Can Coated
Team Laydown Brushes, with lightened brush hood heatsinks
Team Springs with Insulation
Lightweight Spring posts, Elimination Screws, Endbell Screws, and Timing Ring
ABEC7 Bearings
30t HHK-ST Armature Ground Polished Dyed Epoxy Balanced





Hope you all like!

Later EddieO

[Colgout]

The last motor seems to have laydown brush instead of stand up brush as you mentioned.

Can you enlighten me on the difference between conflux, stubby and vapour can? In terms of weight, size and other benefits?

What do you use to insulate the spring? I couldn't find a tube small enough, I use a little bit of electrical tape.

[EddieO]

Typo by me on the hoods....fixed it.

Teflon tubing for the insulation.

Stubbies come in two cans, one is a cut down Vapor can I used on the early pairs. The newer pairs mostly will be the Conflux version, as I am pretty much out of the older cans to cut down that work for the stubby. Stubbies are simply cut down 5mm to save weight and gain clearance. They are little power houses though.

Vapors were simply stock japanese cans that were turned down in a lathe to save weight. Typically we would knock about 15-20g off the can weight (depending on the base can). Vapors primary goal was weight savings, but they altered the powerband as a result. More peppy motor.

Conflux is my brain child of my really shitty hand drawings and about 30 conversations with BigBlackcummings, who put the idea into CAD for me. The goal was to offer a motor that would be lightweight but not compromise any aspect of performance. The conflux is machined from solid billet, unlike a conventional can which is stamped. The conflux has near perfect tolerances compared to a stamped can. It allows precision airgap of the magnets and armature. This provides better startup, better braking, and more consistent power while providing optimal torque, RPM and efficiency. With the design, it allows me to build the motors in basically any configuration. You can pick any magnet, arm, etc to your liking. Basically the ultimate 540 motor at this point....I am hoping to have the prototype conflux endbells here shortly....

Later EddieO

[Colgout]

Cool, thanks for the clarification..

So am I right to say that conflux can can be short (like stubby) or standard length (540 size) or even long (550 size)?

I know which one to get and better start saving....

[justinart24]

Wish I had more miles on my Brood 45t Chaos motors so I could buy some Stubby's.

BTW...they look killer in person...very well made.

[EddieO]

In theory.....the stubby can is also used on the Sisu.

550 is on the way, but the can is a bit different, as it won't have the vents on the bottom for weight loss and will only come in .040 thickness. They will be called Devastator.....a 540 version of the same can is coming for the Axle Buster and the Maelstrom (scaler motor).

Later EddieO

Originally Posted by Colgout

Cool, thanks for the clarification..

So am I right to say that conflux can can be short (like stubby) or standard length (540 size) or even long (550 size)?

I know which one to get and better start saving....

[Hulksta]

Originally Posted by justinart24

Wish I had more miles on my Brood 45t Chaos motors so I could buy some Stubby's.

BTW...they look killer in person...very well made.

You can never have enough motors Im sure im not the only one with a motor fetish

Buy some stubbies... you wont regret it

[Calderwood]

I notice that you only insulate the top side of the brush spring. Is there a reason for this? Wouldn't the spring post still conduct electricity thought the spring to the brush since the end of the spring that pushes on the brush is uninsulated? I'm going to try out the insulation when I cut the comms on my motors and was wondering if there is a reason not to insulate the brush end of the spring.

Thanks in advance!

[EddieO]

I've tried it both ways. The slot car guys insulate both sides. I've done both sides, but the problem is our springs are different with the bend so finding an insulation that fits the bend on the brush isn't very easy. I've tried lots of stuff, with little luck.

After some tests, while power still can flow into it, it doesn't actually conduct anymore, so heat is less. It's even less heat if we do both, but something is better than nothing...

Later EddieO

[ik632]

You going to post pics of my motor build? Or is a 35t Chaos too boring?