Team Brood Motor Tech Thread

[EddieO]

Tons of new motors going out. Lots of cool stuff....

Chaos pair going to Utah...

Chaos Can
C6 Dual Magnets
729 Standup Brushes
Purple Springs
35t HHK-ST Armature 7.5mm Comm Epoxy Balanced






Stubby pair going to Australia

Stubby .020 Can Coated Motor Armor
FB9 Quad Magnets Shaved Tips
729 Standup Brushes
Team Extra Firm Springs with Spring Insulation
Lightweight Spring posts, Elimination Screws, Endbell Screws, and Timing Ring
Ceramic Bearings
30t HHK-T Armature 7.5mm Comm Epoxy Balanced





Vapor Pair going up north to canada

Vapor Can with Motor Armor
FB9 Quad Magnets
Team Laydown Brushes
Team 150 Firm
Lightweight Spring posts, Heatsinks, Endbell Screws, and Timing Ring
ABEC 7 Bearings
35t HHK-T Armature 7.5mm Comm Ground Polished Dyed Epoxy Balanced






Apocalypse up to canada too for the shafty.

Apocalypse Can
FB9 Dual Magnets
Team Laydown Brushes
Team 150 Firm
Lightweight Spring posts, Heatsinks, Endbell Screws, and Timing Ring
ABEC 7 Bearings
35t HHK-T Armature 7.5mm Comm Ground Polished Dyed Epoxy Balanced





Stubby pair going to Harvo

Stubby .020 Can Coated Motor Armor
FB9 Quad Magnets Shaved Tips
Team Brushes
175 Extra Firm Springs with insulation
Lightweight Team Spring posts, Elimination Screws, Magnesium Timing Ring, Cut Brushhood Heatsinks, SS Cap Endbell Screws
Reverse Spring mod
Ceramic Bearings
35t HHK-T Armature 7.5mm Comm Epoxy Balanced








Stubby pair going to Europe

Stubby .020 Can Coated Motor Armor
FB9 Quad Magnets Shaved Tips
Soaked and Baked 767 Brushes
Team Extra Firm Springs with insulation
Lightweight Team Spring posts, Elimination Screws, Aluminum Timing Ring, Cut Brushhood Heatsinks
Ceramic Bearings
30t HHK-T Armature 7.5mm Comm Epoxy Balanced









Diamond D's new stubbies....

Stubby .020 Can Coated Motor Armor
FB9 Quad Magnets Shaved Tips
Soaked and Baked 767 Brushes
175 Extra Firm Springs with insulation
Lightweight Team Spring posts, Elimination Screws, Aluminum Timing Ring, Cut Brushhood Heatsinks, SS Cap Endbell Screws
Reverse Spring mod
Ceramic Bearings
35t HHK-T Armature 7.5mm Comm Epoxy Balanced








ClassiCutCustoms new shafty motor

Vapor Can
FB9 Dual Magnets
729 Standup Brushes
XHeavy Springs Firm
Lightweight Spring posts, Elimnation Screws, Endbell Screws, and Timing Ring
Ceramic Bearings
30t HHK-T Armature 7.5mm Comm Ground Polished Dyed Epoxy Balanced

[Hulksta]

That's a lot of power for one post!

It almost screamed right off the page!

[ROWDY RACING]

Originally Posted by Hulksta

That's a lot of power for one post!

It almost screamed right off the page!

Sure is, he even left one off, my Maelstrom.

Good work EddieO

[EddieO]

There was actually a whole batch I spaced on pics for, including the first production maelstrom....along with some axle busters, sisu, etc. I suck....just been a really strange 45 days at this point....

Later EddieO

[ROWDY RACING]

Originally Posted by EddieO

There was actually a whole batch I spaced on pics for, including the first production maelstrom....along with some axle busters, sisu, etc. I suck....just been a really strange 45 days at this point....

Later EddieO

It happens, don't beat yourself up.

[redsawacs]

Mr Eddie,

For the knowledge impaired (me) regarding GOOD QUALITY motors, can you talk the difference between a stock axial stamped closed bell motor and a precision crafted motor relative to performance characteristics?

Basically, I want to replace 2 of my RC motors and I am COMPLETELY lost. I have a stock 27T axial motor in my 2s AE-2 wraith (18/87 gears) and I love its performance...speed, torque, overall power (its worked for 6 months now). I want a quality motor that I can trail run for 3-4 hours at a time, once or twice a week and still play on the rocks at the local park. The 27t does what I want but at some point, its going to poop the bed and I want something of equal performance characteristics that I can install and not have to think, "Is it going to die on this trail run".

My other motor is in my AR60 based shafty crawler. I currently have a 2s 55T Novak crap can with a 12/96 gear on a micro sidewinder. I know, way too much torque and no wheel speed. I want more wheel speed on 2s and same torque. any more torque and I'll rip apart my rig. I will be changing the gears depending on the motor. Again, budget build, NON COMP rig - crawler for the rocks at the local park only - no comps.

Not sure if your motors are where I should be looking since you typically build high end crawler motors. Any information would be helpful.

Hey, Look here....Happy Thanksgiving, Jack

[ik632]

Originally Posted by EddieO

The 4383 was pretty much the ultimate HP brush back in the racing days but they were rougher on the comm. the 729 was very popular in the racing days too, gentler on the comm and still good power.

The 729 is the most common standup in crawler motors. It's what I use for stock standups.

Your chaos is a standup...729 would be my suggestion.

Later Eddieo

Perfect, thanks Eddie. I'll have to order some. The motor was losing power the last run (about 6 runs on it with doing nothing more than spraying the motor out with motor cleaner and oiling the bearings). I'm going to pull the endbell and see what the com looks like. Is it still ok to clean it with very fine emery cloth to take off any charring without having it turned?

[Hulksta]

Originally Posted by ik632

Perfect, thanks Eddie. I'll have to order some. The motor was losing power the last run (about 6 runs on it with doing nothing more than spraying the motor out with motor cleaner and oiling the bearings). I'm going to pull the endbell and see what the com looks like. Is it still ok to clean it with very fine emery cloth to take off any charring without having it turned?

Your better to leave it than sand it, if the emery cloth has carbon in it then kiss you comm good by...

[ik632]

It still seems strange that it's losing power already. I certainly don't baby it, but I don't abuse it either. The com does have a black spot on it though. Maybe it's time to buy a com lathe and learn how to turn it

[EddieO]

Originally Posted by ik632

Perfect, thanks Eddie. I'll have to order some. The motor was losing power the last run (about 6 runs on it with doing nothing more than spraying the motor out with motor cleaner and oiling the bearings). I'm going to pull the endbell and see what the com looks like. Is it still ok to clean it with very fine emery cloth to take off any charring without having it turned?

I rate using emery cloth right up with water break in! BAD! You typically end up doing more damage than good.

Time to buy a comm lathe. You can typically find them for under $50, even brand new. They are easy to use, I showed my wife how to cut a comm in about 5 minutes......

Originally Posted by redsawacs

Mr Eddie,

For the knowledge impaired (me) regarding GOOD QUALITY motors, can you talk the difference between a stock axial stamped closed bell motor and a precision crafted motor relative to performance characteristics?

Basically, I want to replace 2 of my RC motors and I am COMPLETELY lost. I have a stock 27T axial motor in my 2s AE-2 wraith (18/87 gears) and I love its performance...speed, torque, overall power (its worked for 6 months now). I want a quality motor that I can trail run for 3-4 hours at a time, once or twice a week and still play on the rocks at the local park. The 27t does what I want but at some point, its going to poop the bed and I want something of equal performance characteristics that I can install and not have to think, "Is it going to die on this trail run".

My other motor is in my AR60 based shafty crawler. I currently have a 2s 55T Novak crap can with a 12/96 gear on a micro sidewinder. I know, way too much torque and no wheel speed. I want more wheel speed on 2s and same torque. any more torque and I'll rip apart my rig. I will be changing the gears depending on the motor. Again, budget build, NON COMP rig - crawler for the rocks at the local park only - no comps.

Not sure if your motors are where I should be looking since you typically build high end crawler motors. Any information would be helpful.

Hey, Look here....Happy Thanksgiving, Jack

I build motors for anything really. I sell plenty of scaler and basher motors.

A good quality handwound or machine wound is a big difference from the sealed can stuff. One biggie is that you can rebuild them and/or change up the configuration if you want. The sealed can stuff is typically made as cheap as possible. Crappy armature balancing, comm termination, epoxy, etc. All these shortcuts lead to a motor that simply does not perform as well a handwound or a rebuildable machine wound.

For the wraith, any brushed motor is gonna need to be taken care. Don't take care of them and they will fail....some guys go years with no problems. Luck more than anything, not the quality of the motor. Simply cleaning it out with motor spray and compressed air goes along way in keeping them running good. While some wraith guys go with handwounds, the Specter 30t Type HHK-T is a popular choice. Many just go with machine wounds, the Intensity 30t is super popular with the Wraith crowd. Gearing is CRITICAL in a wraith. You must adjust it so you don't overheat the motor. A bad misconception in crawlers is that all motors use the same gearing. (15/87 is a good place to start on the 30t).


The AR60 shafty I would grab a 35t motor. Intensity Machine wound is a good choice if you don't wanna spend a ton. You can always upgrade to handwound later. You are not comping with it and being on a budget, a handwound is not overly necessary.


Later EddieO

[redsawacs]

I can't put a price tag on that reply....Worth millions if I had to try! Thank you so much. I'll surf the web and check to see if the Air Force gave me enough money to get things moving. If not, it will be a few weeks!

Again, thanks so much, that's Exactly what I was looking for!

[redsawacs]

How would I know if I got a reverse rotation motor?

I bought an "Intensity 35t" and when I installed it, I had to reverse the throttle/reverse operation on my controller. I had a Novak 55T before. Are either one of those motors reverse?

[Charlie-III]

Originally Posted by redsawacs

How would I know if I got a reverse rotation motor?

I bought an "Intensity 35t" and when I installed it, I had to reverse the throttle/reverse operation on my controller. I had a Novak 55T before. Are either one of those motors reverse?

If it was ordered for a specific application, it may have come "reverse", basically the endbell was rotated 180* so the colors match up.
Matched MOA sets (ordered as sets) will have a marking on which is which. Could be a label, marked on can or marked on motor shaft.

Options to reverse a brushed motor:
Rotate endbell 180*
Swap motor wires (black wire on red motor post, red wire on black motor post)
Reverse ESC & TX

I usually just swap wires.

[ik632]

Originally Posted by EddieO

Time to buy a comm lathe. You can typically find them for under $50, even brand new. They are easy to use, I showed my wife how to cut a comm in about 5 minutes......

Yeah, I'm going to start searching for one.

[Curcal]

Originally Posted by EddieO

And a set of bad boy Conflux. Weight was not a huge issue here, so the customer went with the new CB20 Cobalt magnets for ultimate torque. Only a pic of one, as I can't put them close enough together without the magnets wanting to dry hump each other instantly.

CB20 Dual Magnets w/ Flattened Tips
Conflux .020 Can Coated
Team Laydown Brushes, with lightened brush hood heatsinks
Team Springs with Insulation
Lightweight Spring posts, Elimination Screws, Endbell Screws, and Timing Ring
ABEC7 Bearings
30t HHK-ST Armature Ground Polished Dyed Epoxy Balanced



Hope you all like!

Later EddieO

Finally got a a chance to drive some courses on these motors and they definitely have some serious giddyup. Id really like to smooth out the start up a bit more. I'm thinking if I up 1 or 2 teeth (from 13) on the pinion I can get a smoother low end. What would you suggest?

[ROWDY RACING]

Originally Posted by Curcal

Finally got a a chance to drive some courses on these motors and they definitely have some serious giddyup. Id really like to smooth out the start up a bit more. I'm thinking if I up 1 or 2 teeth (from 13) on the pinion I can get a smoother low end. What would you suggest?

Have you tried adjusting the throttle expo on your radio?

[Curcal]

Good I idea! I'll give that a shot for sure. The motors drive the car really well, but when I stop and start up again they have a build up and slight jerk before they smooth out again. I'm in about 20% throttle when it kicks off. Thanks for the suggestion Rowdy!

[ROWDY RACING]

Originally Posted by Curcal

Good I idea! I'll give that a shot for sure. The motors drive the car really well, but when I stop and start up again they have a build up and slight jerk before they smooth out again. I'm in about 20% throttle when it kicks off. Thanks for the suggestion Rowdy!

No prob, should smooth things right out.

[EddieO]

Adjusting the radio and esc can often help with start up...many people typically have the settings fairly harsh.

Messing with the gearing can also help slow down the startup, which is sort of the nature of the beast with the cobalts. Once I had my stuff set correct the start up on mine was pretty smooth.

Later EddieO

[EddieO]

First a big order going out to Japan, seems some other motors were not pulling their weight. A combo of conflux and stubby motors, along with a special pair for the big kahuna.




Stubby .030 Can Coated
FB9 Dual Magnets
Standup 729 Brushes
XX Heavy Springs
Lightweight Spring posts, Elimination Screws, Aluminum Timing Ring, 12.9 Cap Endbell Screws
Ceramic Bearings
16t CVR Armature 7.5mm Comm Drill Balanced












Conflux .020 Can Coated
FB9 Quad Magnets
Standup 729 Brushes
XX Heavy Springs
Lightweight Spring posts, Elimination Screws, Aluminum Timing Ring, 12.9 Cap Endbell Screws
Ceramic Bearings
16t CVR Armature 7.5mm Comm Drill Balanced












The big guys Stubbies….full team treatment.

Stubby .020 Can Coated Motor Armor
FB12 Dual Magnets Shaved Tips
Laydown Putnam Brushes
175 Extra Firm Springs with insulation
Lightweight Spring posts, Elimination Screws, Magnesium Timing Ring, Cut Brushhood Heatsinks, Armor Plated Cap Endbell Screws
Reverse Spring mod
Ceramic Bearings
15t CVR Armature 7.5mm Comm Drill Balanced













Lastly a pair of Conflux that went off to Europe

Conflux .030 Can Coated Motor Armor
FB12 Quad Magnets
P-94 1201 Brushes with P-94 Brush hoods
Team 175 Springs with Insulation
Lightweight Spring posts, Lightweight Heatsinks, Aluminum Timing Ring, Cut Brush Hood Heatsinks, SSCap Endbell Screws
Ceramic Bearings
35t HHK-ST Armature 7.5mm Comm Ground Polished Dyed Epoxy Balanced