Team Brood Motor Tech Thread

[Curcal]

Originally Posted by EddieO

Adjusting the radio and esc can often help with start up...many people typically have the settings fairly harsh.

Messing with the gearing can also help slow down the startup, which is sort of the nature of the beast with the cobalts. Once I had my stuff set correct the start up on mine was pretty smooth.

Later EddieO

Thanks for the advise and encouragement.
So which way to you think I should try first up teeth or down?

[EddieO]

Bigger pinion usually is the way I try first.

Later EddieO

[Erik D_lux]

Curt,

IMO, the biggest downfall of the 6ex is the lack of EXPO adjustment. I dont even think there is one? If there is, its hard to understand when using the radio and the feeling it gives. When I need to adjust my EXPO, I dont mess with the radio but rather just go straight into the ESC and adjust it there. It makes things much easier to deal with.

Having said that, I think I would leave the radio unless you have something funky in there already, then return it to zero and I would play with the pinion like EddieO says.

On my sporty, I could feel what I think your describing. The magnets are so freaking strong in those motors that the arm jumps from one magnet to the next and sits there for a second feeling kinda choppy. On my sporty, I went down 2 tooth sizes and it completely disappeared.

[redsawacs]

Ordered a specter 30t HHK-T, TONS of torque but I'm looking for a bit more wheel speed. Motor temps were in the 70-80s range, so the gearing was fine. Lost my rig to some poor schmuck who has a hard time keeping their hands off things that belong to others (thief), so I need a new motor.

I see the 30t is the lowest turn in the HHK-T armature. If I wanted a 25 or 27t, what's the next logical choice if mounted in a Wraith?

[EddieO]

Not every arm is available in an HHK, sometimes the next wire size up doesn't fit....our 27t and 25t stuff is the big wire already.

I would say try a 27t for more wheelspeed.....pretty low temps though so probably can gear up a tooth.

Later EddieO

[redsawacs]

Can KV ratings be used in Brushed motors the same way as brushless?

How is Brushed motor torque measured and how can I use that rating when choosing a motor based on rig weight?

[EddieO]

KV is KV....you can use it the same. KV is a fairly new rating to RC cars that did not really show up until Brushless started showing up in cars. Plane guys have always used it though.

Torque can be measured a few ways, fancy formulas can be used to calculate it if other numbers are known, or a load sensor can be used..... You can even do it by rigging up a rod that presses on a scale as the motor spins (basically a crude load sensor).

Typically we use Dynos to measure torque, but the crawler motors often can trip the torque sensor while making max power.

Personally, not a big fan of KV as a way to rate a motor. It can be used for stuff, but it really only tells part of the motor performance... Horsepower is (Torque X Rpm)/5252...but KV only tells us RPM at voltage. We see this in brushless racing motors alot. Motor A is 5000 KV, Motor B is 4500 KV......Motor A outsells B cause 5000 is bigger than 4500....but on the track, B kills A all day long. Why, because the unknown torque number is clearly higher. (these are random numbers btw).

Say the torque on the 4500 is 5 oz, 4 oz on the 5000

4.284 HP for the 4500
3.808 HP for the 5000

Deceptive at the least.....gets worse how some measure KV which makes it higher than it really is.

Later EddieO

[timtogap]

Eddie,

I am interested in your motors. I run an scx10 and it weights a good 5 lbs to 6 lbs. I am torn between the selection of motors you offer. But I narrowed it down the Maelstorm and the Axle Buster.

Or do you have any other suggestions? I run my truck hard.

I look forward to your reply. Thanks.

[DaveQ]

I have a 30t axle buster and its awesome!

Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

[step child]

Eddie, I have one of your Stump Humper 550. Having a little issue with it, I think the brushes got stuck. Hopping it can be saved. Hears a couple pictures.





I now know I'm over geared, was running stock 20/87 on 2s. Will be dropping the pinion to 16 for start keeping the 87 spur and going to 3s. How does that sound?

Thanks John

[EddieO]

I can't tell if thats brush dust on the windings or they are burnt. Definitely overgeared, you may of toasted the armature. It may just need a comm cut and new brushes, but it looks pretty bad.

most gear them at a 14/87 or so om 3s...16/87 on 2s.

Later EddieO

[step child]

Thanks Eddie, I'll change to 16pinion and try out a 3s battery and go from there. Do you think I should stick with the 550 or try out a 35t motor? The motor goes in a Honcho with 1.9 tires weighted down I do scale and trail runs.
Thanks John

[EddieO]

Assuming the arm is ok, and geared right....you should be fine to stay with the 550...........

Later EddieO

[redsawacs]

I think I am looking for a 27t motor for my G6 build. For sure I will run 2s but in the future I am considering 3s for the majority of my rigs. For now, I have too many 2s batteries to jump ship.

The Specter is Amazing in my Wraith but since the SCX isnt as heavy, I figure there would be other options. I was looking at the Intensity but I can only get that in a 25 or 30t.

What is your recommendation for the SCX10 crowd??

This will be my 5th motor from you.....I'm hooked!

This is what I have in my cart....am I close?

Chaos

Selected options:
Wind and Armature: 27 Turn Type T
Armature Upgrades: Stock
Balance: Drill (Standard)
Comm Size: 7.5mm (Small)
Brush: High RPM
Springs: Purple 9oz Heavy (Standard)
Lightweight: Stock
Bearings: Steel ABEC 7 Bearings
Matched: No
Timing:
Rotation: Normal

[EddieO]

I'd still nab a specter with that setup. If you drive your truck through any of the stuff the other g6 guys do, the ABEC 7 Bearings are a waste, as they just get hammered by all the mud...heavier springs as well...

Later EddieO

[redsawacs]

I don't see much mud out here in CO...dust but rarely any mud.

Specter with a "Type T" armature?

[rbx]

Hey Eddie

Does the cornflux come with thick or thin type cobalt magnets?

Would it perform well with 7cells nicd?(i would used it for 1/10 4wd buggy)

I like the mechanical side of brushed motors(thats why im not using a brushless)

Thanks!

[EddieO]

The conflux cobalts are the same size as the regular ceramic magnets.....the thin cobalts are currently only use in the Axle Buster and Sisu because they use a 28mm armature.

Probably email me for a motor, as you really just need a race motor not a crawler motor.

Later EddieO

[svt923]

Eddie,

Is brush hood alignment and armature shimming something that has to be redone periodically on your motors? I know you take care of all the tweaking before it leaves your shop but do these things change enough to be redone as the motor wears?

[EddieO]

Well, hood alignment and armature spacing are much less critical in crawling motors as they were in the racing days....

Bad hood alignment will lead to premature wear on the comm and brushes. While in most trucks, it should not change during use, the MOA trucks it can be an issue because of them hitting the rocks constantly. It's a good idea to check them every so often, along with your endbell screws...

As for the armature spacing, again can lead to premature wear on the comm and brushes, along with the bearings. The plastic spacer at the bottom of the armature compresses over time...bearings gain slop, comm can slide down a tad...so you will gain slop, especially in trucks that go fwd/reverse alot to get flipped back over.

Both are easy to check and take care of, might as well rebuild the motor at the same time.

Later EddieO