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Old 02-11-2010, 04:30 PM   #821
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ok i have a goat 3s with 18.5 motor. some times when i power it on it well run fine for a min. or two then well start to glitch out? what shoould i do to fix this?
We need a lot more details to help..

Harry
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Old 02-12-2010, 10:53 AM   #822
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If you're using NiMH, it might be in Lipo Mode.
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Old 02-12-2010, 08:28 PM   #823
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I have the same problem as Tomer. I have the stock controller and rx that comes with the lnc. I suspect that they are the culprits to my problem. If they are what controller would you recomend to over come this.

21t goat/ballistic w/fan and bec istalled
hyperion 3s/11.1v 25c 1100mah


I am a tig welder by trade and mechanically inclined, I'm very confident that everything is correct and soldered well.

bec is at the top of pics next to the motor rx is out of pic mounted to the under side of the roof. Also out of the picture is the esc mounted over the rear axle.
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Old 02-14-2010, 11:12 AM   #824
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Originally Posted by Old Sloppy View Post
We need a lot more details to help..

Harry

well i have a dx3r, maxamps 1100 batteries. if it gliches i trun the swicth off and trun it back on and it is all good. it happenes almost everytime i use my lcc.

what else do you need to know?
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Old 02-14-2010, 11:41 AM   #825
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Describe the glitch. Does it just shut off? Take off at full throttle? Jump back and forth? Creep foward with no throttle?
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Old 02-14-2010, 01:51 PM   #826
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I tried to take a video of it today and it wouldn't do it. 3 batteries and no glitch. I guess I am happy it didn't glitch but I wanted to show it here and the tech at novak. The temp today is 72* the warmest its been this year. Knowing that batteries are effected by temp more than any other part on the car I wonder if i don't have enough battery for the motor.

The glitch is just like a bad tuned carberator, as soon as you need to bump an obstical or nice steady throttle it cuts out. It usually glitches 2-5 times really fast then runs fine. I doesn't seem to have anything to do with any noise from the steering servo.

Maxing out the deadband on the goat deffianatly helped, but I don't want it to happen at a comp. I still want to improve its performance.
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Old 02-14-2010, 04:01 PM   #827
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It could be a battery issue. I run the 2s goat 18.5, started having an issue with the truck shutting off as the temps dropped with a 1900 20C (whether that was peak or con. I don't know) 2s pack, the colder it got the worse it got. I have a 3300 20/35C 2s pack that would never have the issue but was to thick for what i wanted. I now run a 1650 30/50C 2s pack without the issue. I have had a similar deal happed with a bad sensor harness also.
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Old 02-14-2010, 05:15 PM   #828
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thanks mudcat

I'm gonna order a Hyperion G3 VX - 3S 1800mah 35C Lipo. The more and more I think about it its the battery. I do think that I wanna upgrade my radio as well.
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Old 02-14-2010, 06:01 PM   #829
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I did have a ton of glitching issue's with my Goat on AM that went away with 2.4, so I wouldn't rule the radio out. Since you both have 2.4 and Tomer's is the 3r I think battery, Novak does reccomend a high C pack and high end radio though. Also another thing it could be is the BEC, the one Novak includes with the 3s Goats is 3amp, if your powering your rx and servo with it it could be dropping voltage to the rx.
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Old 02-14-2010, 06:03 PM   #830
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the glitch is like a brushless motor that is senserless trying to creep along. and the motor and esc is nice and cool. i am on throttle light or on it hard.
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Old 02-14-2010, 07:09 PM   #831
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Interesting about the bec, I am powering both rx and steering. Is there anything to watch for if I go with a 5 amp (over loading something). My concern is why do they give you 3 amp and show you how to wire it to power both steering and rx.

I thank you very much for your lesson here
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Old 02-14-2010, 08:05 PM   #832
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cro-magnum View Post
Interesting about the bec, I am powering both rx and steering. Is there anything to watch for if I go with a 5 amp (over loading something). My concern is why do they give you 3 amp and show you how to wire it to power both steering and rx.

I thank you very much for your lesson here
Not sure what they were thinking, a strong servo can pull over 7 amps. Not much concern about a BEC being to strong, it only puts out what your equipment pulls, I think some old rx's can have issue with heat from to many amps ran threw them. I run the CC BEC threw my rx and power a 8711 and 9650 threw it without issue.

Tomer yours sounds like either a sensor harness issue or just the effects of the 14mm rotor.
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Old 02-15-2010, 09:15 PM   #833
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but it is not a problem everytime i trun it on . it is just sometimes.
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Old 02-15-2010, 09:30 PM   #834
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Stock AM radios are fairly well known to not work awesome when you use upgraded Servos and ESC/Motor setups. Sometimes you get a good one and it works okay, other times, you get periodical goofyness.

The big thing I have found with any AM, be it an RTR or even a fancy pants aftermarket one, is the wire routing is everything.

Bundles of wires together usually wreak havoc on them, so keep all the wires in separate bundles.

Also, the antenna is crucial, It sorta "needs" to go up and out of the truck as soon as possible. Having it coiled up or wrapped around usually won't work that well.


Cold Lipos are a common problem too. When the pack is cold, it's like it's dying, the voltage actually goes down slightly, and the resistance goes up, this makes it hard for it to do it's job. At comps I try to keep them in my Pocket to warm them up, or run my heater in my car for a few minutes and put the pack under the vent, then put it in my pocket and "keep it warm". Little lunch boxes and those "warmer pouche" things could be very useful for this....

If it's just a startup glitch, it could be a lot of things, starting with wiring issues at the plugs, the battery being a bit on the weak side, or even the gear mesh being bad.

I work in a hobby shop, and it seems that a lot of guys don't really understand or appreciate how important gear mesh really is.
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Old 02-15-2010, 10:42 PM   #835
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my radio is a dx3r. looked at wiring and gear mesh. they are all good. running 35c 3 cell lipos. its not cold in san diego so could it be the on off switch that is going out?
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Old 02-16-2010, 05:02 PM   #836
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I am glad to say my glitch is fixed, but ashamed of what was wrong. I still had my red wire from rx to esc hooked up. I read it the first time i read the directions but when it came time to install i forgot.

I thank John at novak for his help. The solution to my problem was in the first sentence of his e-mail which leads me to believe i'm not the first special one to pull this off.

For anyone that managed to do what I have done remember the red wire will be hot, it must be insulated!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Travis
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Old 02-20-2010, 03:03 AM   #837
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So i just installed a used goat 2s 18.5 and it doesnt want to turn, and the motor gets hot real quick. using a 6 cell 7.2v battery, and who ever owned it first extended the sensor wires. Any help would be appreciated thanks
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Old 02-20-2010, 03:16 AM   #838
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AkFordfan View Post
So i just installed a used goat 2s 18.5 and it doesnt want to turn, and the motor gets hot real quick. using a 6 cell 7.2v battery, and who ever owned it first extended the sensor wires. Any help would be appreciated thanks

Sounds like you have some binding somewhere or your pinion mesh is to tight. What truck is it in?
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Old 02-20-2010, 03:22 AM   #839
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im just about to buy a rooster crawler and all this crazy jittery talk has got me worried i use a hpi tf-1 radio will i have to get a new one or will it be ok
thanks novak
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Old 02-20-2010, 03:31 AM   #840
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Its in a night crawler, i can turn it with my fingers when its off. i even pulled it out and tried to get it to turn but it just bounces back and forth
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