RC4WDs New Micro Crawler

[Fungi]

What group?

[jenijohnk]

Rc4wd gelande II

[DonsATV]

Originally Posted by Fungi

What group?

There's 3 groups that show up for RC4WD Gelande II.
RC4WD 1/18 Gelande II is the one that works with his links.

[jenijohnk]

Sorry guys...try this..

.servo motor
https://youtu.be/HvlknCV2kms

Magnet mounts
https://youtu.be/L8DWXI9zvr4

[Aeronuclear]

Originally Posted by jenijohnk

Sorry guys...try this..

.servo motor
https://youtu.be/HvlknCV2kms

Magnet mounts
https://youtu.be/L8DWXI9zvr4

Brilliant! Like the magnet mount idea.

How is the low speed control like? Good for crawling?

[jenijohnk]

i think its perfect, fast enough to get you out of a bad spot and slow enough to put you in one!

[jenijohnk]

Anyone break the front axle yet? Heard the pivot screw fir the knuckle ripping out.. mine has been fine and i have put it through the paces..

[Intashu]

I tried the Servo motor mod, and it worked, but I must have not drilled the hole's quite right because it had minor binding that would heat up the motor excessively. if done right it works great however!
So I've made my own dual motor mount instead, which works great with the stock electronics and allows it to easily run the larger 1" tire options. (plus they have naturally solid engine breaking so it won't roll anymore!)

but what mods have people done to fix up the suspension because I've only seen one option so far, and what have people done to fix the HUGE rotational slop in the drive train? Stock it can roll nearly a quarter inch back and forth stock!

[SurfinStud]

I am actually working on the suspension(still) currently. So, I have followed TownsendTdi on this path. Its pretty simple with a 2-56 threaded rod, 1/8x.014 round or square(in my case) aluminum tubing and redcat/sumo rod ends/Ball studs. TownsendTdi has a thread you should check out for that, it has part numbers and more.
I am in the process right now, and have done the steering links. The stock rod from the servo is a big bind for flex especially. From here the four link should be pretty simple. The only issue I am having is the Tie Rod and the Steering Rod connecting on the same control arm.. Ill research this farther, but so far its been fairly inexpensive and the results appear awesome.

The frankensteined shocks I've made, based on TownsendTdi, do add height, so I am making new shock mounts that will lift the shock's upper mounting location by 8mm. Should help make it look closer to stock, and will allow much more travel. These will be made of 3/4x1/8 aluminum.

Here's a couple pics for ideas.


Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

[stopmojim]

Originally Posted by jenijohnk

To continue the updates. The tower Pro servo was awesome! Thanks Tgreer.. perfect torque, 80percent of my brushless speed...pinion seems to mess well-no niose. Some points I like to throw out there for anyone who wants to try this.
#1- you do have to open up the hole to make it fit in the trans, just a little bit. In doing this you'll notice that the bearing for one of the gears is exposed in in the hole. All I did was grind the lip of the motor just a hair so I didn't push on the bearing up cocking it inside the trans. Just the case alittle,doesnt even reach the motor bushing.
#2- the 2 bolts that hold the motor in. The smaller one is too long and will hit the motor stator when fully torqued down. I just added a little washer.
#3- I had to smooth out a piece of the outside of the transfer case. It's the part near the drive shaft that looks like a scale output shaft housing. Just a couple millimeters, no big deal.
#4- lastly, when you go to mount up the transfer case again the motor did hit the bolt for the one control arm. I just grounded down the head just before flush to make sure it clears...

Its sounds like alot,but really about 45mins from start to fininsh.. Hardest part was making the motor sit flush and clearing that bearing so it sits flat. For me-worth ever once of time and the 16.00 for the servo! Made this rig a keeper.

Yep, this is exactly right. I did this mod and it worked perfectly...almost.

Swapping out the motor works well. Lots more torque and speed. Climbs like crazy. The problem is the crappy electronics. No low end at all. The Tx even has a small dead spot right at the beginning of the trigger pull. Nothing for a bit, then zoooom you're off. Can't slow crawl at all.

I swapped out the garbage electronics for Trekker Rx/ESC and Tx, and this thing works like a dream now. Crawls super slow, but still has good wheel speed if you want it.

To me, this is the perfect combo. The servo motor and Trekker electronics makes this thing actually work like it should.

[SurfinStud]

Originally Posted by stopmojim

To me, this is the perfect combo. The servo motor and Trekker electronics makes this thing actually work like it should.

I agree, that the servo motor is an inexpensive way to go with GOOD results; more torque, more speed, same setup.

I actually got a stock motor replacement afew months back, put it back in(have the servo motor as a backup) and it has been holding up well too. A little more torque than the original, I BELIEVE, that they(rc4wd)got a better quality motor built, or something, because it is definitely more capable than the original motor.

No comment about the teekker electronics, but I do run a cheap aftermarket esc and it is worth the upgrade.

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

[stopmojim]

Originally Posted by SurfinStud

No comment about the teekker electronics,

Lol, I had it laying around and it's a cheap way to get results. Though, I do like the Trekker electronics a lot. They work very well at this micro scale and are small enough to move around the frame depending on your needs. I just wish they were still available. It's getting very hard to find them anymore.

I suppose one could go with an expensive micro ESC. I think Castle has a micro ESC/motor combo, and a Rec for a good Tx ( I prefer Futaba) and I have considered doing that. This micro is well built, all metal, and has plenty of room to work with. So, it would be worth the cash for that sort of upgrade. I'm not convinced it really needs it though.

There is still the problem of mating the Castle motor to the tranny. It's not a drop in upgrade no matter what you do.

Maybe later as this present setup is pretty satisfying at this scale.

The real fun for me is the potential for scale modeling this little truck offers. I'm scrounging up parts now to add detail as that's what I enjoy about this hobby.

I'm thinking a pale green with a white top and tan interior. Maybe a few of the really outrageously priced exterior upgrades RC4WD offers for it.

[Adakar]

Originally Posted by Natedog

Or just buy pinion press/puller so that you can always get the proper mesh.
Slot.it SISP21 Brand "Professional" Pinion Gear Puller / Press
Slot.it SISP21 Brand "Professional" Pinion Gear Puller / Press

Cheaper option

https://es.aliexpress.com/store/prod...a-bb125a22008e

[jenijohnk]

Sorry.. i forgot to tell u guys i was running a tekin b1r..on my motor

[stopmojim]

I ordered a new body for my D90 and just for fun ordered the front light protectors/guards.

DO NOT BUY THESE PARTS!

They are way over priced, incredibly thin foil that crumbles at the slightest touch. I expected them to made of better stuff. Mine even came with one bent out of shape in the package.

Honestly, one bump on anything, and the things are crushed. I think the side window protectors are the same stuff, so I'm not buying them.

The rest of the stuff looks like actual metal rod, but after getting this flimsy joke of a product, I don't know if I want any of the exterior upgrades.

I'm not sure what happened with RC4WD and this product, but there is a lot of questionable stuff surrounding this micro.

Bad motor, bad electronics, very little flex, and some of the exterior accessories are a total rip off.

I still plan to finish this thing as it has a lot of modelling potential, but it is a very disappointing product out of the box and the after market upgrades make me distrust these folks now.

[stopmojim]

The odyssey begins!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Uponone19]

Hey bud what did you use for the donor car? I love the interior detail. The modeling aspect was initially what attracted me to this truck as well. That being said with the right upgrades I find it to be extremely capable.

If your able to get the weight upfront it helps tremendously with inclines. Consider moving the ESC-Receiver to the rear "still as far forward as possible", and mounting the battery with velcro perpendicularly behind the front shock mounts. Relocating the 4 links inboard helps as does reducing preload by cutting the shocks internal springs by half or whatever your preference for stance.

Another thing not to shy away from "except for price" are the RC4WD CChand accessories. I can vouch for the ones you haven't used. IE the roof rack, roll bar, and rear ladder. These are sturdily built and provide great protection in the event of rollovers. Mine has survived enormous tumbles that would have otherwise ruined my careful paint job.

In case your interested I'm running a tekin B1R mounted to the rear of the servo, with the battery a "turnigy bolt 500mah 65C" behind that. Reciever is a standalone futaba 3 channel mounted just behind the motor, and a RC4WD light control unit behind that "fixed to the undertray of the body's interior made from a sheet of styrene. Oh and the servo motor.

[Intashu]

Yes please share your donor car secrets, been trying to find an interior for mine for ages!

[Natedog]

Originally Posted by Adakar

Cheaper option

https://es.aliexpress.com/store/prod...a-bb125a22008e

Good price, but only pulls pinion won't press it back on and looks kinda flimsy made.

Originally Posted by Intashu

Yes please share your donor car secrets, been trying to find an interior for mine for ages!

Yes, please share.

[stopmojim]

Originally Posted by Uponone19

Hey bud what did you use for the donor car? I love the interior detail. The modeling aspect was initially what attracted me to this truck as well. That being said with the right upgrades I find it to be extremely capable.

If your able to get the weight upfront it helps tremendously with inclines. Consider moving the ESC-Receiver to the rear "still as far forward as possible", and mounting the battery with velcro perpendicularly behind the front shock mounts. Relocating the 4 links inboard helps as does reducing preload by cutting the shocks internal springs by half or whatever your preference for stance.

Another thing not to shy away from "except for price" are the RC4WD CChand accessories. I can vouch for the ones you haven't used. IE the roof rack, roll bar, and rear ladder. These are sturdily built and provide great protection in the event of rollovers. Mine has survived enormous tumbles that would have otherwise ruined my careful paint job.

In case your interested I'm running a tekin B1R mounted to the rear of the servo, with the battery a "turnigy bolt 500mah 65C" behind that. Reciever is a standalone futaba 3 channel mounted just behind the motor, and a RC4WD light control unit behind that "fixed to the undertray of the body's interior made from a sheet of styrene. Oh and the servo motor.

I bought one of those 70 dollar die cast models from EBay. A bit pricey, but the fit is exactly the same.

Do you have the Tekin esc hooked to the stock motor or have you changed it to the servo upgrade?