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Old 07-06-2012, 01:13 PM   #41
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Default Re: losikid's anorexic 2012-2013 comp rig

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Originally Posted by Erik D_lux View Post
Bottom line, you need to move the C hub out. It has nothing to do with the axles or the knuckles.
Have to have longer inner shafts if you move the C out
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Old 07-06-2012, 01:18 PM   #42
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Default Re: losikid's anorexic 2012-2013 comp rig

the sds builder's kits really do start looking attractive for that.
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Old 07-06-2012, 05:08 PM   #43
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Default Re: losikid's anorexic 2012-2013 comp rig

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Originally Posted by Erik D_lux View Post
Bottom line, you need to move the C hub out. It has nothing to do with the axles or the knuckles.
I realize that, but don't you need to keep the pivot point right at the chub, therefor needing a longer inner shaft?
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Old 07-06-2012, 07:23 PM   #44
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Default Re: losikid's anorexic 2012-2013 comp rig

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Originally Posted by losikid View Post
Have to have longer inner shafts if you move the C out
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Originally Posted by Tgreer View Post
I realize that, but don't you need to keep the pivot point right at the chub, therefor needing a longer inner shaft?

I must have missed it. The super shafts are long enough...
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Old 07-13-2012, 03:08 PM   #45
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Default Re: losikid's anorexic 2012-2013 comp rig

I need to clean up the work area abit, but i'm aiming to get the bully conversion done this weekend (I finally got some new cutting bits and fiber wheels for the dremel), hopefully have it driving in the next week...
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Old 07-14-2012, 11:35 PM   #46
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Well with lack of a 10-32 tap that works with a damn (or i may just be a bad operator ), my front axle is put on hold till i can get a good tap. So i got my rear axle linked up and my topper mounted. I'm going to attempt getting body panels done this weekend instead of an axle.
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Old 07-15-2012, 02:37 PM   #47
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I'm considering doing clear body panels and a black delrin roof panel. Why hide the transmission
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Old 07-15-2012, 02:56 PM   #48
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show that baby off! interested in how you do your panels, i gave up after about an hour
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Old 07-15-2012, 06:04 PM   #49
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Thought I was the only one doing clear panels. Tho my chassis isnt as cool
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Old 07-23-2012, 12:12 AM   #50
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Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes View Post
50x motors are shipping my way in 7 days. Magnets finally came through!
, finally, i've been slow boating this build in hopes this motor would be able to break this rig in...3oz lighter and in theory have alot more power, it'll turn the losi into a jumper

Maybe now with a feather weight motor i don't have to worry about off camber situations when my motor is down hill
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Old 07-23-2012, 12:05 PM   #51
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Just thinking out loud. Not an attempt to derail, or thwart your thread. I am speaking as someone still learning and trying to wrap my brain around all this. Also, I have never driven a rig that was super light weight, so I am speaking purely theoretically.

What is the wide reaching allure of going with featherweight rigs? I do understand that removing weight in some places is better. Example: wheels - lower rotating mass, better run times, less stress on driveline, and on and on. Most of that can be taken care of with knuckle weights.

But there are components that HAVE to weigh a certain amount. Example; tranny (with dig servo), there is only so much that you can take out to make it lighter. It cannot be anywhere but (up high) as spring weight on the chassis (and the chassis...only so much, though your Phoenix is pretty amazingly light as it is). So the weight loss has to come from somewhere else…only place to pull from is down low. Wheels, wheel weights, knuckle weights, links. To me (note: not saying much) that would effectively raise your center of gravity. Am I looking at this wrong?

I know my beloved LCCs needs to lose some weight, but I am very impressed with how it is driving now. So it is hard for me to justify tearing into them (and the downtime).

I really appreciate the life and innovation that you and Pete continue to breathe into the LCC platform. Please keep it up. Oh and I love your OKRC avatar. Very cool!

Last edited by dentonmac; 07-23-2012 at 12:10 PM.
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Old 07-23-2012, 01:26 PM   #52
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Just thinking out loud. Not an attempt to derail, or thwart your thread. I am speaking as someone still learning and trying to wrap my brain around all this. Also, I have never driven a rig that was super light weight, so I am speaking purely theoretically.

What is the wide reaching allure of going with featherweight rigs? I do understand that removing weight in some places is better. Example: wheels - lower rotating mass, better run times, less stress on driveline, and on and on. Most of that can be taken care of with knuckle weights.

But there are components that HAVE to weigh a certain amount. Example; tranny (with dig servo), there is only so much that you can take out to make it lighter. It cannot be anywhere but (up high) as spring weight on the chassis (and the chassis...only so much, though your Phoenix is pretty amazingly light as it is). So the weight loss has to come from somewhere else…only place to pull from is down low. Wheels, wheel weights, knuckle weights, links. To me (note: not saying much) that would effectively raise your center of gravity. Am I looking at this wrong?

I know my beloved LCCs needs to lose some weight, but I am very impressed with how it is driving now. So it is hard for me to justify tearing into them (and the downtime).

I really appreciate the life and innovation that you and Pete continue to breathe into the LCC platform. Please keep it up. Oh and I love your OKRC avatar. Very cool!
Well, i'm highly focusing on weight up high. All the steel parts that comes in the tranny is now aluminum. I'm using a micro servo for dig vs a mini servo. Moving the dig servo as low as possible. Using aluminum hardware vs steel hardware. Using a dryy silicon lubricant vs alot of heavy grease. Carbon fiber chassis material vs delrin material (about the same weight, but i can cut the thickness in half and it'll be half the weight and still more rigid than delrin). I'm going to be using the new holmes hobbies sensored outrunner which is about 3oz lighter than the tekin redline and it'll have more power. Battery, servo, esc, bec will all be mounted to the front axle. Like you said, using dlux wheels to get less rotatial mass to be easier on parts, and more predictable. To compensate for the loss of lower weight i'll be using knuckle weights, but i'm only mounting most of it (like 8oz off the top of my head) below axle center line.

I'm not ultra worried about axle weights, i'm going from v3 shafts to bully shafts which probably will weight at least twice the amount of v3 shafts. Getting the chassis as light as possible will give me insane stability, and keep amazing ground clearance. All in a shafty
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Old 07-23-2012, 03:10 PM   #53
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Thank you...truly amazing. Very interested to see how it turns out. And your impressions how it compares.

Thanks again.
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Old 07-26-2012, 10:30 PM   #54
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So i got 2 C's and 1 knuckle shaved to work together...now one more knuckle and i can start cutting down bully shafts to length.

I'll post up pics of everything shaved down, and tips i figured out once i'm done....then i'll put down a coat of paint to get rid the ragged dremel marks. I'n decided if i want to make my knuckles and C's black or add some pop and make em red.
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Old 08-04-2012, 07:48 PM   #55
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Default Re: losikid's anorexic 2012-2013 comp rig

Very interested, I am going to breathe some life back into my LCC as a sportsman for next season. Keep up the great work!
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Old 08-06-2012, 07:29 PM   #56
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Hopefully artr tomorrow, probably won't be running till i get the new holmes outrunner
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Old 08-13-2012, 11:54 AM   #57
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Any updates?? switched the LCC over to a sportsman and am loving it. Still looking for a LNC tranz. I don't need the LCC tranz any more.
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Old 08-13-2012, 08:19 PM   #58
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No...got busy again.
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Old 08-14-2012, 06:25 PM   #59
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Just got done grinding everything...alot of dremel work needs to be done. I'll have pictures up here later tonight before i paint everything....

It is a turning beast though. I ground my c's and knuckles down almost as much as they can, and it still bottoms out on those before the axles. . It looks like tires will get into my links pretty bad. I may grind em down farther later down the road if i space out the tires more or think i can shove more tire into the link.

Its at 10.5" wide right now (outside of tire to outside of tire). Whats stock losi width?
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Old 08-14-2012, 08:13 PM   #60
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Default Re: losikid's anorexic 2012-2013 comp rig

on ax offset wheels, that's my current track width, so about a 1/4" less per side to stock losi wheels.
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