Official VF/DNA/BWD Customer Service/Feedback Thread

[210solomon007]

Originally Posted by DiEzel

Solomon, I have some feedback/ Concern. I know ive said it before, but i im gonna say it again i suppose...



My last set of DNA Outputs were made out of soft aluminum. As are the ones in the rebuild kit i bought to get new outputs (last ones broke, 3 battery packs - Note)

Im running 8 cells on a rooster crawler with a 5t HH Puller. Yes i understand that you guys run them no problem. But im having problems, and im a paying customer.



These REALLY need to be made out of 4130... Or step up the game, Do it out of 300m. Even cold rolled steel would be better then this aluminum .

One thing i can say is ive never ever had an outdrive come off due to inproper installation. I always loctite, and everything is always tight.. This wasnt assembled by some 12 year old in his dads basement either.

As you can see the set screws spun on the front output. And you can see the rear output's mounting surfaces... Well 2 broke off and one is bent because this is so thin... WHY ? Their is plunty of room in this tranny to make them thick enough to be substancially stronger...

Here are some pictures. Sorry if i come across like a dick/pissed but if im spending money on a product that is considerd an "Upgrade" I want it to last.

Did you have a slipper on the tranny? Also the new dig spools are thicker attach points. But running 8cell puller, there is going to be a weak link, and a 3mm set screw will be it.

[DiEzel]

Nope no slipper, Nor should i have to run one. My transmission outputs should be the last thing i have to worry about. And the rebuild kit i bought is the same as last. Nothings changed.



And i never said the screws broke. The screws were fine. The output's broke. Simple as that.

[210solomon007]

Originally Posted by DiEzel

Nope no slipper, Nor should i have to run one. My transmission outputs should be the last thing i have to worry about. And the rebuild kit i bought is the same as last. Nothings changed.



And i never said the screws broke. The screws were fine. The output's broke. Simple as that.

I will send you a new thicker dig spool next week when I have them. As for the fron out drive, you are right, the screw did not break, but your are not correct as to this not happening with steel. That much power on one or two contact points, That is the weak link. Two set screws will do the same thing.

[DiEzel]

If the front spool was 4130 or 300m, with thicker mounting points (Even as thick as stock would be nice) It would hold up to the power and abuse much nicer.

I don't want you to think im coming down on your product Solomon. I Love the innovation and design you guys have. I personally believe the out drives need attention and a different material.

Feed back right ?


Heres a dumb question, and i'd love to test it if you made it....

What about utilizing ALL the holes on the "Diff" Gear.... Or Half.... 4130 outputs. Bulletproof.

[210solomon007]

Originally Posted by DiEzel

If the front spool was 4130 or 300m, with thicker mounting points (Even as thick as stock would be nice) It would hold up to the power and abuse much nicer.

I don't want you to think im coming down on your product Solomon. I Love the innovation and design you guys have. I personally believe the out drives need attention and a different material.

Feed back right ?


Heres a dumb question, and i'd love to test it if you made it....

What about utilizing ALL the holes on the "Diff" Gear.... Or Half.... 4130 outputs. Bulletproof.

The problem when you go to steel is the cost. You can use the stock front out put. No one will buy a dig for $100.00 when you can get them as cheap as $40.00. I hear what your saying, we cant build them out of steel and still compete price wise. Feed back is always good.

[DiEzel]

I would pay the extra to not have a headache. Thats my opinion. Maybe we can work something out and i can have you guys make me a "Special set"

[Shoei1]

Can someone tell me if my replacement dig shipped out yet?

[hessian18]

I have a couple concerns with a new DNA rebuild kit I just purchased...



The first thing I noticed, The new center cog is still raw aluminum ?? I thought this was going to be hard anno'd ?? Raw aluminum VS coated aluminum is only a given, the raw is going to wear out...( like my last cog) at least the tolerance is better between the two on the new one. There isn't a gap between the two pieces...leadig the corner of the cog to wear out...


The next thing I noticed was on the shifter fork, one leg is one thickness and the other is another.... Shouldn't these be the same ??


And then I noticed the Pin on shifter fork is not pressed in all the way and is sitting crooked ?? Shouldn't the fork legs be the same thickness and the pin be straight ??


I did notice they made the engagement areas deeper then before....but the slop between the fork and the rear output is allot...


Just wondering, my next step is to take some machining into my own hands


Business card and packaging is TOP notch

[bigflex]

Originally Posted by 210solomon007

The problem when you go to steel is the cost. You can use the stock front out put. No one will buy a dig for $100.00 when you can get them as cheap as $40.00. I hear what your saying, we cant build them out of steel and still compete price wise. Feed back is always good.

Hey DiEzel! As stated from Solomon you don't have to use the DNA front output. I know nobody likes the company but 3 racing makes stainless steel outdrives. Oh and theres always the "CDW" chromoli outdrives as well.
Just a thought bud.

[DiEzel]

My point is this. I understand the cost would be raised, I understand not everyone wants to pay the extra cash. But i have one simple last question.


Why in the hell should i have to go hunting for a stronger front/rear output when im PAYING for outputs already ? Because im running a bigger motor then most ? Give me break.


Also. About the cost now that I've thought about it. DNA Dig - 65 bucks. Rebuild kit 30 bucks... I'm sitting at 95 bucks after 4 battery packs... I would of GLADLY spent 5 bucks more to have 4130/ 300m Outputs.

[210solomon007]

Originally Posted by Shoei1

Can someone tell me if my replacement dig shipped out yet?

Can you e-mail customerservice@dna-rc.com with what part and address it shoukd have gone to? Thanks and we will get back to you.

[210solomon007]

Originally Posted by DiEzel

My point is this. I understand the cost would be raised, I understand not everyone wants to pay the extra cash. But i have one simple last question.


Why in the hell should i have to go hunting for a stronger front/rear output when im PAYING for outputs already ? Because im running a bigger motor then most ? Give me break.


Also. About the cost now that I've thought about it. DNA Dig - 65 bucks. Rebuild kit 30 bucks... I'm sitting at 95 bucks after 4 battery packs... I would of GLADLY spent 5 bucks more to have 4130/ 300m Outputs.

Ok guy's. Here is what Don and I have decided. We are going to look at the cost of the steel parts. What we might need to do is offer a "standard" dig and a "Heavy Duty" dig. Then we would offer a upgrade kit for those who have a dig and want the steel internals. This is ONLY going to happen if the cost is still on this planet.

Diezel, I understand your point. But even on a 1:1 crawler, when your running a 500hp big block turning 38's, when you get bound up you dont just dump the clutch and expect nothing to break.

All you gus have good valid points. Thats why we are going to look at it and see if we can do something for EVERYONE. No an easy task but we will try.

[210solomon007]

Originally Posted by hessian18

I have a couple concerns with a new DNA rebuild kit I just purchased...



The first thing I noticed, The new center cog is still raw aluminum ?? I thought this was going to be hard anno'd ?? Raw aluminum VS coated aluminum is only a given, the raw is going to wear out...( like my last cog) at least the tolerance is better between the two on the new one. There isn't a gap between the two pieces...leadig the corner of the cog to wear out...


The next thing I noticed was on the shifter fork, one leg is one thickness and the other is another.... Shouldn't these be the same ??


And then I noticed the Pin on shifter fork is not pressed in all the way and is sitting crooked ?? Shouldn't the fork legs be the same thickness and the pin be straight ??


I did notice they made the engagement areas deeper then before....but the slop between the fork and the rear output is allot...


Just wondering, my next step is to take some machining into my own hands


Business card and packaging is TOP notch

E-mail customerservice@dna-rc.com and we can get you taken care of. We have however noticed that some shift forks are getting bent in shipping. The thickness of each fork, We will look into that. Can you e-mail the difference's in thickness? Also the drive dog was not going to be coated. But this will change if we goto a steel internal setup.

[Shoei1]

Email sent. Also if it helps Don was the person helping me.

[irok]

I would have paid more for a HD dig,, up to about $100.
A $30 re.kit is nice to have available but i would rather pay $80-100 and never worry about all these issues.I bought the DNA cause i thought all the bugs had been worked out already.
Maybe offer a line of HD parts to upgrade and give a discount to those who already have the older unit's.

[DiEzel]

Originally Posted by 210solomon007

Ok guy's. Here is what Don and I have decided. We are going to look at the cost of the steel parts. What we might need to do is offer a "standard" dig and a "Heavy Duty" dig. Then we would offer a upgrade kit for those who have a dig and want the steel internals. This is ONLY going to happen if the cost is still on this planet.

Diezel, I understand your point. But even on a 1:1 crawler, when your running a 500hp big block turning 38's, when you get bound up you dont just dump the clutch and expect nothing to break.

All you gus have good valid points. Thats why we are going to look at it and see if we can do something for EVERYONE. No an easy task but we will try.

Lol. We dont want to compare apples to oranges do we ?

If i had a 1:1 rig. And i had a 500hp Big block, Th400, Atlas II, High angle driveline's, and Dana 70/80 or 2.5 Rockwells.. Then yes i would expect nothing to break. Granted over time parts fail, Agreed. But your damn straight i would beat the living snot out of it if i had those parts.

I would have paid more for a HD dig,, up to about $100.
A $30 re.kit is nice to have available but i would rather pay $80-100 and never worry about all these issues.I bought the DNA cause i thought all the bugs had been worked out already.
Maybe offer a line of HD parts to upgrade and give a discount to those who already have the older unit's.

Agreed! I bought DNA for the name and reputation, If i wanted cheap i would of made one or bought a HR dig.

[rottenbelly]

Hey now. I have a problem with my dig unit. Not only does the brass pin wobble, this whole aluminum piece in this photo does.
If you look at the gap while you spin it you can see the whole thing wobble, not just the brass. I cant even run it because It has a bad binding spot on it. it you assemble it and try to spin the drive shaft by hand you cant, its that tight. I bought it from rpp hobby and was wondering if i should deal with you or you through them.. What are my chances of getting a replacement piece? Any info will help, thanks

[CD13]

just got my chassis and wheels.Top notch product as usual with great support.Thank you guys

[BigSki]

True to Solomons pleadge to stand behind their parts, I recieved another rear outdrive to replace the last 2 defective/damaged ones.

The new one arrived in the same FLAT PARCEL shipping envelope that the last damaged part arrived in. This part had a minor ding on the side of it, but it didn't seem to effect the part. I had told DNA that both of the outdrives were bad, but I only got a rear one, so I reused the stock AX-10 part for the front drive. The outdrives spin nicely and finally don't wobble, but as soon as I install the dig cover and the rest of the parts, I have a binding issue.

I used my highly calibrated dyno-finger to spin the spur gear. When the dig is in the rear locked position, the spur gear spins freely. When I engage the 4wd position, I can feel that it takes at least 3X the effort to spin the spur gear, and I can feel the amount of resistance change every 1/2 revolution, like there is an internal bind.

Am I missing something with the set up? I'm not using any type of white grease, as I don't want any 'stick-tion' within the unit. I used a graphite spray which goes on dry and will not attract dust or moisture.

I am really at a loss, and my patience is almost gone. I didn't spend almost $100 for a dig unit and servo ( which cooked within 15 seconds because of the binding) to have to re-engineer it and tweek it to get it to work satisfactory.

I want to call RPP and arrange for a return/refund, but I feel bad about sticking Corey with a bad part that he had nothing to do with, besides being a vendor for the product.

Any ideas on what to look for that can be causing the internal binding? The tranny was a 1 season old case with brand new bearings and gears before I installed the dig unit.

[210solomon007]

Originally Posted by rottenbelly

Hey now. I have a problem with my dig unit. Not only does the brass pin wobble, this whole aluminum piece in this photo does.
If you look at the gap while you spin it you can see the whole thing wobble, not just the brass. I cant even run it because It has a bad binding spot on it. it you assemble it and try to spin the drive shaft by hand you cant, its that tight. I bought it from rpp hobby and was wondering if i should deal with you or you through them.. What are my chances of getting a replacement piece? Any info will help, thanks

Originally Posted by BigSki

True to Solomons pleadge to stand behind their parts, I recieved another rear outdrive to replace the last 2 defective/damaged ones.

The new one arrived in the same FLAT PARCEL shipping envelope that the last damaged part arrived in. This part had a minor ding on the side of it, but it didn't seem to effect the part. I had told DNA that both of the outdrives were bad, but I only got a rear one, so I reused the stock AX-10 part for the front drive. The outdrives spin nicely and finally don't wobble, but as soon as I install the dig cover and the rest of the parts, I have a binding issue.

I used my highly calibrated dyno-finger to spin the spur gear. When the dig is in the rear locked position, the spur gear spins freely. When I engage the 4wd position, I can feel that it takes at least 3X the effort to spin the spur gear, and I can feel the amount of resistance change every 1/2 revolution, like there is an internal bind.

Am I missing something with the set up? I'm not using any type of white grease, as I don't want any 'stick-tion' within the unit. I used a graphite spray which goes on dry and will not attract dust or moisture.

I am really at a loss, and my patience is almost gone. I didn't spend almost $100 for a dig unit and servo ( which cooked within 15 seconds because of the binding) to have to re-engineer it and tweek it to get it to work satisfactory.

I want to call RPP and arrange for a return/refund, but I feel bad about sticking Corey with a bad part that he had nothing to do with, besides being a vendor for the product.

Any ideas on what to look for that can be causing the internal binding? The tranny was a 1 season old case with brand new bearings and gears before I installed the dig unit.

Ok guys. Here is what we are going to do. Monday we will send you both all new internals. Or send the trans and dig in and we will build them in house and send them back. Please e-mail what you would like to do.