Official VF/DNA/BWD Customer Service/Feedback Thread

[Metalboots]

I recently purchased the new dna dig with the hitec 225 servo. from Rpp
and would like to say im very impressed I took my time and it works great.
But theres is a small amount of resistance it seems. it seems to be harder for the motor to turn in about half of a full turn of the transmission. its not real bad but its definitly more resistance than I had with no dig.

I was just wondering if i need to break it in some more or if there was a simple explantion or if mb i did something wrong during assemby. or thats just how its supposed to be. any thoughts on this would be greaty appriciated. thanks again DNA You guys Rock.

[WarTrader]

Solomon, I bought a DNA mini slingshot. I've been thrilled with the performance of the chassis. This morning I hit the local rockgarden and my skidplate snapped at the lowerlink/chassis hole on the left front. when looking at it I noticed that the same is starting to occur on the rear left. I'm using 14mm bolts for this wich is giving me 8mm of bolt into the kid plate it leaves me roughly 1mm between it and the chassis bolt. Both are comming apart at the link side. I've CA'd it but I'm not sure how long that will hold.. Can you please PM or Email me and let me know how much another skidplate will cost me? Can I get that part from you??

[TSK]

Soloman, Please check your PM. My rer outdrive has failed and I need a replacement ASAP.

Thanks, Travis

[210solomon007]

Originally Posted by TheSCorpionKing

Soloman, Please check your PM. My rer outdrive has failed and I need a replacement ASAP.

Thanks, Travis

Got it. And replied.

[210solomon007]

Originally Posted by WarTrader

Solomon, I bought a DNA mini slingshot. I've been thrilled with the performance of the chassis. This morning I hit the local rockgarden and my skidplate snapped at the lowerlink/chassis hole on the left front. when looking at it I noticed that the same is starting to occur on the rear left. I'm using 14mm bolts for this wich is giving me 8mm of bolt into the kid plate it leaves me roughly 1mm between it and the chassis bolt. Both are comming apart at the link side. I've CA'd it but I'm not sure how long that will hold.. Can you please PM or Email me and let me know how much another skidplate will cost me? Can I get that part from you??

Sure.. can you e-mail customerservice@dna-rc.com and we will get you fixed up and crawling hardcore ASAP!

[WarTrader]

Email Sent. Solomon I'm going to use some rod to run through the hole and a peice of tubing to support and seperate the lower links, and capture the rod with some 2mm hardware that holds the chassis to the skidplate?

Do you guys have any other Ideas?

[BigSki]

I have a few questions about the DNA dig. I've already sent the requested info to your customner service hyper link, so I know that replacement parts are on the way. I decided to take a really close look at the finished parts. The brass guide pins are all .125" diameter, and the silver out drive has the counter bore for the pin at the same diameter, but the black sliding outdrive ( the one that moves with the shift fork) has a bore of .141" ( #28 hole size). The shift fork has a rod that moves the fork in and out, and it uses a .125" diameter, and the guide rod is also .125" but the hole in the shift fork for the guide rod was also .141"

It seems like a lot of tolerance to me, so I chucked up the silver outdrive in the lathe and opened the bore up to .140" and made some new guide pins from drill rod material. I also made a new guide pin for the shift fork out of the same drill rod, with a reduced step of .126" to press into the housing. These steps really seemed to make the dig unit function a lot better.

My question ( finally) is- are those tolerances the correct ones?

[Hotrodblder]

Don or Solomon,

How would I go about buying direct? I have searched the sites of the vendors who are suposed to be selling your products and to no avail all i see is that they are sold out. I'm not sure if they're not updating their web sites or if they are actually sold out.

PLEASE help me out with some info on being able to buy direct from you guys. What does a person have to do to get the best in aftermarket crawler parts? It would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for your time guys. Keep up the good work, and Don, I hope y're feeling better by now.

Shawn

[210solomon007]

Originally Posted by Hotrodblder

Don or Solomon,

How would I go about buying direct? I have searched the sites of the vendors who are suposed to be selling your products and to no avail all i see is that they are sold out. I'm not sure if they're not updating their web sites or if they are actually sold out.

PLEASE help me out with some info on being able to buy direct from you guys. What does a person have to do to get the best in aftermarket crawler parts? It would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for your time guys. Keep up the good work, and Don, I hope y're feeling better by now.

Shawn

just e-mail customerservice@dna-rc.com and we will get something worked out for you.

[billet works]

Originally Posted by BigSki

I have a few questions about the DNA dig. I've already sent the requested info to your customner service hyper link, so I know that replacement parts are on the way. I decided to take a really close look at the finished parts. The brass guide pins are all .125" diameter, and the silver out drive has the counter bore for the pin at the same diameter, but the black sliding outdrive ( the one that moves with the shift fork) has a bore of .141" ( #28 hole size). The shift fork has a rod that moves the fork in and out, and it uses a .125" diameter, and the guide rod is also .125" but the hole in the shift fork for the guide rod was also .141"

It seems like a lot of tolerance to me, so I chucked up the silver outdrive in the lathe and opened the bore up to .140" and made some new guide pins from drill rod material. I also made a new guide pin for the shift fork out of the same drill rod, with a reduced step of .126" to press into the housing. These steps really seemed to make the dig unit function a lot better.

My question ( finally) is- are those tolerances the correct ones?

This was actually done this way on purpose. Initially, in my prototype units, I had the tolerance much tighter and found that the variance in assembly, plus the injection molded parts in the Axial kit made it so some times it would be smooth as glass and others it would bind up hard core. The purpose of the guide shaft is merely to keep the shift fork from rotating around with the outdrive. Keep in mind when you have multiple moving parts attached to an existing trans case of unknown condition, too tight of tolerances can be a bad mix. We had to design it to work best across the board. I hope this answers yoru question.

Don
DNA R/C

[BigSki]

Originally Posted by billet works

This was actually done this way on purpose. Initially, in my prototype units, I had the tolerance much tighter and found that the variance in assembly, plus the injection molded parts in the Axial kit made it so some times it would be smooth as glass and others it would bind up hard core. The purpose of the guide shaft is merely to keep the shift fork from rotating around with the outdrive. Keep in mind when you have multiple moving parts attached to an existing trans case of unknown condition, too tight of tolerances can be a bad mix. We had to design it to work best across the board. I hope this answers yoru question.

Don
DNA R/C

Thanks for taking the time to answer. Hopefully when the replacement outdrives arrive, this dig unit will stop binding and start working properly. The tranny is a new, from the package unit. My old tranny got the snot beat out of it last year, so I didn't want to take any chances.

[Metalboots]

Originally Posted by Metalboots

I recently purchased the new dna dig with the hitec 225 servo. from Rpp
and would like to say im very impressed I took my time and it works great.
But theres is a small amount of resistance it seems. it seems to be harder for the motor to turn in about half of a full turn of the transmission. its not real bad but its definitly more resistance than I had with no dig.

I was just wondering if i need to break it in some more or if there was a simple explantion or if mb i did something wrong during assemby. or thats just how its supposed to be. any thoughts on this would be greaty appriciated. thanks again DNA You guys Rock.

no one wants to reply to this?

[210solomon007]

Originally Posted by Metalboots

no one wants to reply to this?

Sorry for the delay. Do you have the spool with the brass pin ? either way please e-mail customerservice@dna-rc.com and we will work with you on getting it smooth.

[helhedded]

Hey Solomon, I sent that email over with the pic of my spool and the cog gear that wouldn't fit. I was just curious about how long it would be before I got the replacement parts in because I will be moving away from that address in a few weeks.

thanks,
Ashton

[210solomon007]

Originally Posted by helhedded

Hey Solomon, I sent that email over with the pic of my spool and the cog gear that wouldn't fit. I was just curious about how long it would be before I got the replacement parts in because I will be moving away from that address in a few weeks.

thanks,
Ashton

E-mail the name and address and I will track it.

[BigSki]

Hi Solomon,

I got my replacement rear outdrive today, but it's worse than the bad one I got with the dig unit. I just sent you a lengthy e-mail via the customer service hyper link.

[MDcrawler72]

Cost for a Dig rebuild kit? Also what parts are included?

Thanks

[WarTrader]

Originally Posted by WarTrader

Solomon, I bought a DNA mini slingshot. I've been thrilled with the performance of the chassis. This morning I hit the local rockgarden and my skidplate snapped at the lowerlink/chassis hole on the left front. when looking at it I noticed that the same is starting to occur on the rear left. I'm using 14mm bolts for this wich is giving me 8mm of bolt into the kid plate it leaves me roughly 1mm between it and the chassis bolt. Both are comming apart at the link side. I've CA'd it but I'm not sure how long that will hold.. Can you please PM or Email me and let me know how much another skidplate will cost me? Can I get that part from you??

You told me to email as I have done but haven't heard anything I was just wondering if this has gone out?? please let me know.

[210solomon007]

Originally Posted by BigSki

Hi Solomon,

I got my replacement rear outdrive today, but it's worse than the bad one I got with the dig unit. I just sent you a lengthy e-mail via the customer service hyper link.

Got the e-mail.. Was it bent in shipping? As the new ones are all billet and done on a lathe so being out of round or varied thickness is very un-likley. At any rate can you send me a picture and I will get you another on the way. Also repleid to the e-mail.

[210solomon007]

Originally Posted by MDcrawler72

Cost for a Dig rebuild kit? Also what parts are included?

Thanks

They are 29.95 with ALL the internal parts.