RCCrawler Forums

Originally Posted by Duxx

Much appreciated. I guess mine is correct then. Just seems like the rear axle would benefit from being turned forward more. Similar to the angle of the front axle.

Originally Posted by nissan_driver24

hopefully this could help...
Front Axle
[/URL]
Rear Axle


just gotta remember that the front end on my setup is not how VP has it setup.

Originally Posted by Maddog Madigan

Say I think I have my front upper links on wrong, could you post a side shot on yours? Or am I just seeing things.

Originally Posted by Maddog Madigan

Say I think I have my front upper links on wrong, could you post a side shot on yours? Or am I just seeing things.

Originally Posted by DRTMI

The front uppers are the bent links with the short end towards the center of the truck.

Originally Posted by Maddog Madigan

Say I think I have my front upper links on wrong, could you post a side shot on yours? Or am I just seeing things.

Originally Posted by Vp Monkey

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bN6YRv8arKc

I think they explain it around 3:05 into the video.

Jim

Originally Posted by DRTMI

The front uppers are the bent links with the short end towards the center of the truck.

Originally Posted by uclabruins89

Hmm mine are backwards from this and have clearance all around. Anything wrong with running it with the short end of the bent links towards the front?

Originally Posted by rc crawler boy

"Since I used a Tekin B1R speed controller as my light controller I was able to turn off and on certain lights at certain points."

HOW????

Originally Posted by nissan_driver24

Soon, very soon



Thank You



Please do use this as a reference, Thank You



Great I'm glad I could help Thank You



Thank You, I'm glad I was able go show some peeps like yourself the finished rig at RCX!.



I have yet to have a problem with the telemetry being wet (my Honcho is setup exactly the same and it has been in several bath dumps and it's still ticking like the day it is new) plus they are just sensors that aren't required to keep the vehicle running which is the main concern when water proofing this rig. As for the boxes for the traxxas you are correct that they are designed for rx wires which are around 22 guage or 24 guage but remember the boxes includes grease which is used to fill in the gaps where the foams fail to seal. Also with all of the heavy guage wires of the battery and motor, there's barely if not any room for liquid to pass through because they are all squished into there. Hopefully this makes sense.

Originally Posted by Trump1

Hi Michael,

In regards to waterproofing, what are you doing to protect that Redline ROC 412 from the water?

Originally Posted by 65BAJA

What about the hole where the 3 tabs come out for the motor wires?

Originally Posted by Ty@Tekin

If the sensor PCB is coated with something like CorrosionX or that new Krylon stuff then you don't have to really worry about it. I still am not big on getting my stuff wet.

Originally Posted by 65BAJA

What about the hole where the 3 tabs come out for the motor wires?

Originally Posted by nissan_driver24

The only thing I have done was seal up all of the extra motor screw with grub screws with Loctite there were 4 total. I did that to my honcho and ran all of Axialfest with not one hiccup.

Originally Posted by 65BAJA

What about the hole where the 3 tabs come out for the motor wires?

Originally Posted by Ty@Tekin

If the sensor PCB is coated with something like CorrosionX or that new Krylon stuff then you don't have to really worry about it. I still am not big on getting my stuff wet.

Originally Posted by Trump1

I don't own an ROC 412 so I can't really say. However, I wonder if some silicone would work. I'm a believer in silicone and use it on my stock Axial ESC and BEC. I have taken my SCX10 Toyota in water deeper than anything I encountered at Axialfest.

---

Thank you for taking the time to reply. The water crossings at Axialfest weren't too deep at least for the 1.9 Adventurists. I can't say for the Ultra Class.

As I stated to you at Axialfest, I was really impressed to see you Honcho climb past us as we winched our way up. An unforgettable memory that made quite an impression on me that I started to research the brushless ROC 412.

How would you compare the performance of the ROC 412 vs. the Tekin 35T motor?

Thank you

Originally Posted by nissan_driver24

From my experience I would much rather keep that pointing up and not sealed up because if any moisture got into the motor it can still breathe through that area. The one person I trust the most on electronics said below \/ (Ty) the most important thing on the motor to keep from any kind of H2O is the sensor PCB.



Thank You for chiming in Ty, I am also glad the Jeep didn't disappear over the weekend lol Momma would not be happy at all lol.



Axialfest water lines were fairly shallow except for some who took the rigs in for a good dip. lol Silicone could help seal stuff up but like I said from my experiences of fully dipping a sensored brushless motor once the moisture goes in and touches the sensor board the esc would just go sensorless until it is dry so leaving some place for moisture to escape would help (even fully sealed I have found water will always find a way in. Worst case scenario you may just have to replace the Sensor PCB which is better than replacing the motor, the price we pay to play in the water.

I know exactly how you feel about the Honcho on the climb lol. I too was super impressed with the rig because it could never do that before with the old tires and motor.

In my honest opinion the Tekin 35t should never be compared to the ROC 412. The ROC 412 once dialed in correctly is such an amazing motor, the wheel speed is exceptional without having to gear up a ton. I get 13mph out of both my Honcho & Jeep JK on 20/87 gear setup. The torque on the other is awesome just like the speed, if you get this motor please be prepared to use HD everything, steel everything, and ready to find weak links. I'm still finding weak links on my honcho even though it work great with every other system I have had on it.

It was good seeing you and your son at Axialfest I hope to see you guys again soon.

Originally Posted by Trump1

Thank you for replying and your input. The only thing I had to go by is what's posted on Tekin's web site which reads "the 412 gives 3S LiPo / 35T brushed crawler speeds with 2S LiPo / 55T brushed precision and feel" so I assumed the 35T was equivalent in speed to the ROC 412.

For now, I'll stick with my 35T/FX-R combo in my Jeep build and see how that performs. Thanks again for your insight and my apologies for digressing from your build thread and it was good to see you at Axialfest. I'm glad we were able to make it.

Originally Posted by Ty@Tekin

On 2S the 3100 is about the same as 35T/3S speeds and 2S/55T precision crawling. Both being on 2S, the 3100 ROC is a lot faster than the 35T.

Originally Posted by Trump1

Ty, thank you for the clarification. Now I have a better understanding for comparison purposes. I'll be running 3s. Thanks again.