bilinvic's SCX10 II

[bilinvic]

Originally Posted by rngrchad

Would you say this rig you've built out of the scx2 Is as fun or more fun to drive than your bombers?

Good question....I would have to say this SCX10 II is very close to the Bombers in regards to "fun to drive". I like the Bombers because they have much more wheelspinnin' speed, but the SCX10 II wasn't built for speed, it was built for pure crawling performance and because it crawls so incredibly well, it is a ton of fun to drive.

Originally Posted by Say what?

Hey bill, what size shim did you use on the pinion output shaft?
I like your new wheels
Are you still using the same Voodoo foams with the new wheels? If you are how is sidehilling with the 1.4" wide wheels?

Thank You,
~D

IIRC, I used Traxxas TRA 1985 shims (5x8x0.5mm). Yes, VooDoo foams (under 10lbs). I haven't run the SCX10 II with the new wheels yet, but I anticipate side-hilling will be just as good as the 1.9 SSD wheels, maybe even slightly better?

[Tossedman]

Originally Posted by bilinvic

Yeti front bumper with EXO bumper mounts doesn't work on an SCX10 with the axle mounted servo. Might work if you have a CMS. Don't ask me how I know.

Just another reason for me to get an SCX10 II I guess.

[ossipeecrawler]

How do you like the new servo so far?

[bilinvic]

I haven't had a chance to test out the Promodeler servo yet...hopefully soon.

[greengoblin]

Originally Posted by bilinvic

One important note...make sure you shim the pinion output shafts between the exterior diff housing bearing and the driveshaft...the mesh can really get rough if the pinion is allowed to slide in a bit.

I just did this on mine today as im still in the build process of a kit that I've had sitting around for months

[Say what?]

Hi Bill, What size SLW wheel hubs did you use with the new 1.4 wide wheels?
Have you had a chance to run that "SWEET" truck of yours?
If so would you tell us about it?

Thank you Sir.

~D

[bilinvic]

As it sits now, I'm using .600 SLW hubs but I will probably go down to .475 hubs to narrow the track width just a bit.

No, I haven't ran it lately....it's killing me!

[Honcho907]

Originally Posted by bilinvic

Good question....I would have to say this SCX10 II is very close to the Bombers in regards to "fun to drive". I like the Bombers because they have much more wheelspinnin' speed, but the SCX10 II wasn't built for speed, it was built for pure crawling performance and because it crawls so incredibly well, it is a ton of fun to drive.



IIRC, I used Traxxas TRA 1985 shims (5x8x0.5mm). Yes, VooDoo foams (under 10lbs). I haven't run the SCX10 II with the new wheels yet, but I anticipate side-hilling will be just as good as the 1.9 SSD wheels, maybe even slightly better?

Where exactly do you shim these axles? I just got my Scx10ii still learning about it

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[IVIaarten]

Originally Posted by Honcho907

Where exactly do you shim these axles? I just got my Scx10ii still learning about it

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see post #107

[Honcho907]

Originally Posted by IVIaarten

see post #107

Thanks

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[blumaro]

Nice build!

[Motorider]

Originally Posted by bilinvic

I have been fine tuning the suspension and running lots of back-to-back crawls to optimize the performance.

I flipped the rear shocks mounts from side to side and moved them up a notch on the frame. I wanted the rear shocks to be angled forward to provide more leverage and to lower the rear ride height. Moving the shock mount towers and frame brace also provided more clearance for the differential link mounts. For the shock mounts, I used the metal shock mounts from the Blue Monkey Wraith Trailing Arm conversion kit that was sitting in my spares box. The rear shocks were drained of the 30wt shock oil and were filled up with 60wt....feels much better now.

I replaced the rear bumper and bumper frame mount with brand new Axial parts because I initially stole it from my Wroncho Bug!

As much as I absolutely love the KLR's performance, I wanted a scale tire to suit the theme, so I threw on the R35 Falken Wildpeaks with the new denser SCX10 II foams. So far I can still make the same lines as the KLR tires, but it takes more effort and time. I may end up going with the 1.9 R35 BFG Krawlers in due time.

I also filled the backside of the body's grill section with black glue gun glue (if that makes sense!). Small cracks were starting on both sides where the grill goes down past the front fender flares. I applied a layer of Gorilla Duct tape and then filled this whole area with the molten black glue. Once cured, this provides a ton of support to the lexan body to prevent deformation on impacts. A secondary bonus is the extra weight all the way forward.

I'm still amazed at it's performance and I can't wait to get out on the mountains...hopefully this weekend.

Alright bill...so I flipped my rear shock mounts as you did. I did not have the piece you did from the yeti, so I just mounted the shock to the original mount for now. What I found; though, was that if I tightened the shock down tight it would bind. It's like it would not rotate on the ball and socket as designed, but instead wanted to rotate on the mounting bolt.

Anyhow I also discovered my problem with limited suspension travel with both wheels in the rear. Don't laugh, but I had the upper 2 rear links reversed from side to side, causing it to bind on the transmission mounts. It looks as though it would be easy for anyone to do.







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[rngrchad]

Hey Bill, I just built a Kit Wraith, and it uses the same Axial style ends on the links. I'm finding them to be a pita as they always seem to pop off the pivot balls causing limited travel or slightly binding the travel. Not sure whats up with them, but I'm currently looking for a proper replacement end. Wasn't sure if you noticed yours doing the same or not, but maybe keep an eye for it, as I constantly have to "re-pop" mine back onto the pivot balls while I'm out on a hike.

[bilinvic]

Originally Posted by Motorider

Alright bill...so I flipped my rear shock mounts as you did. I did not have the piece you did from the yeti, so I just mounted the shock to the original mount for now. What I found; though, was that if I tightened the shock down tight it would bind. It's like it would not rotate on the ball and socket as designed, but instead wanted to rotate on the mounting bolt.

Anyhow I also discovered my problem with limited suspension travel with both wheels in the rear. Don't laugh, but I had the upper 2 rear links reversed from side to side, causing it to bind on the transmission mounts. It looks as though it would be easy for anyone to do.

You have to ensure the shock bolt is not over-tightened, you want the shock to rotate freely on the ball mount. I can see how easy it would be to have the links wrong, glad to hear you figured it out.

Originally Posted by rngrchad

Hey Bill, I just built a Kit Wraith, and it uses the same Axial style ends on the links. I'm finding them to be a pita as they always seem to pop off the pivot balls causing limited travel or slightly binding the travel. Not sure whats up with them, but I'm currently looking for a proper replacement end. Wasn't sure if you noticed yours doing the same or not, but maybe keep an eye for it, as I constantly have to "re-pop" mine back onto the pivot balls while I'm out on a hike.

The Axial link ends and plastic balls aren't very good except for the first couple times out...then they get sloppy and loose and you end up having to pop them back on like you are doing. By far, Traxxas Revo (short) and Jato (long) link ends are the best to use. In time they will loosen too, but you'll have quite a few miles on your rig by the time that happens and they are relatively inexpensive to replace. These Traxxas link ends come with metal balls.

[Motorider]

Originally Posted by bilinvic

You have to ensure the shock bolt is not over-tightened, you want the shock to rotate freely on the ball mount. I can see how easy it would be to have the links wrong, glad to hear you figured it out.




The Axial link ends and plastic balls aren't very good except for the first couple times out...then they get sloppy and loose and you end up having to pop them back on like you are doing. By far, Traxxas Revo (short) and Jato (long) link ends are the best to use. In time they will loosen too, but you'll have quite a few miles on your rig by the time that happens and they are relatively inexpensive to replace. These Traxxas link ends come with metal balls.

Are the traxxas rod ends part number 5347?

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[bilinvic]

Revo link ends TRA5347
Jato link ends TRA5525

You can also go with RPM link ends which also come in Revo and Jato lengths....they are even better, but slightly larger diameter.

[Motorider]

Thanks Bill for the quick responses

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[twisted concept]

Originally Posted by bilinvic

Mods to note:

Shock tower bracing was added;
The side plates were narrowed significantly;
The structural ribs on the underside of the side plates were cut down (angular);
Yeti front bumper with EXO bumper mounts;
Poison Spyder rear bumper (which is actually a front bumper).

I thoroughly enjoyed building the SCX10 II, kudos to Axial for another great product.

When you braced the shock towers did you have to get a smaller battery pack? I was thinking of doing the same but unfortunately all my packs are too wide

[bilinvic]

I use 2200 mAh 3S batteries which fit under the front shock hoop crossbar. I can easily get 2.5 hours of run time per battery.

[ossipeecrawler]

Bill are you running the stock kit springs?