BarryBelvedere's XR-10 RE-Build w/ The NEW AMX Chassis!!!

[barrybelvedere]

You got your beer ready at 8:53 am? I guess its never too early for lite beer

[Beest]

Threads up. Lol

[barrybelvedere]

thread started...more like it

[barrybelvedere]

This build thread is my first one... So here it goes! Axial ti. gear shaft and gears, VP motor plate and 4-link mount. Put em together...

[barrybelvedere]

I am using the plastic gear box housings...The VP ones are nice but not really needed and add unnecessary weight. However it needs the crappy bearings replaced with the VP bushing kit or the bearings will fail and the balls will end up in between the gears. Nobody wants their balls in between the gears! Ouch!

[barrybelvedere]

I have had the problem of the front axle housings splitting to where the spool gear was visible. So i splurged on this VP front axle top. It was well worth the money. It also adds some weight on the front where it is needed. I haven't been able to see my spool since adding this while on the rocks. Works great!

[barrybelvedere]

The front axles them selves have been clearanced for more steering. I used a few different dremel bits to get this done. Do it your self don't be scared!

[barrybelvedere]

After you have done one do the other side and assemble. I like to use a button head on the bottom not a cap style screw. But do use a cap style on the top so you can crank it down and get it tighter with a bigger tool.....Bigger tool

[barrybelvedere]

The leading edge of the chub can be ground off (Don't take off too much as to weaken the chub) so there is less chances of being hung up. I do not advise this on the plastic chubs. Also counter sink and double up on the under side chub screws. The top chub mount screw can be a button head no need to change it. I also used a sanding drum bit in the Dremel tool to smooth of the entire bottom plastic axle housing half. It is important that the steering/castor is tilted back as much as possible w/o going over board, it has many advantages when climbing, reaching ledges, using the steering to break traction to scoot over the front end to sneak past a gate w/o backing up, and being able to steer when the rig is straight up and down while descending vertical walls.

[barrybelvedere]

Better pic of the shaved bottom Also removed the extra plastic for the stock steering slot.

[barrybelvedere]

Turning attention to the rear axle...I would like to be using fancy Titanium Rear shafts but these stock ones haven't failed me yet. And I run enough weight on the front to make up for a few grams that they save in the rear. Anyways.... If you install one of the bearings taken from the gearboxes on the rear axles before you put in the pin for the hex it will eliminate all of the side to side axle slop.

You could take it one step further and cut the outer race off and use only the inner race. Or use an extra VP gear box bushing. I guess i will do it too once i get the time to do it.

[barrybelvedere]

This is what it looks like once he pin is in.

[barrybelvedere]

Before putting the axle together shave off the nub on the bottom of the rear straight out and counter sink and use a countersunk screw usually you gotta take a longer screw and cut it down so it doesn't rub on the axle shaft inside.

[barrybelvedere]

The rear axle housing bottom needs a few mods before using...Use a Dremel and sanding bit to smooth the entire bottom. Also Acquire a package of 3mm button head screws that are at least 35mm long. Put the two empty axle halves and zip tie them together. Drill out all the way thru the two holes starting from the top. With the correct drill bit. I also slotted the screw heads so i could torque em down. They need to be soo tight that you may eventually strip out the hex drive. So just slot en with a dremel and cut off wheel. It is the two with the nuts on the top. Do not get fancy and drill out any more than this. I drilled out one of the other holes by mistake the first time i thought of this in 2009 and had to buy another axle housing set. You also dont need the long ass bolt running sideways thru the housing. Just throw that over your shoulder. My rear axle has never popped since doing this.

[barrybelvedere]

The rear gearbox is the same as the front Axial hard/light gears. Axial TI. gear shaft, VP motor plate, VP bushings & VP 4-link mount but no Aluminum axle housing top. It adds too much weight to the rear axle and is not needed its overkill! Don't use it if you have it on your rig! Sell it! Switch it out back to the plastic one and use the capture bolt idea. It works awesome.

[barrybelvedere]

Now that I have lowered my knuckle weight halves there is too much stress on the single eared mounts. I have broke one on my pro rig and one on my sporty. Which means in order for this idea to be sound, which i have been running/testing since right after Battlegrounds last year. The "Hung Lo" Carbon Fiber parts need the extra mounting tabs. New double eared RCBros weight hanger showed up yesterday. The broken hangers are in the pic also.

[Beest]

Lots of good tech here.

[barrybelvedere]

Here is a better view of the Hung low weight set up. Simple, inexpensive, easy to make & reuses parts that most people already have. The wheel mod that goes along with this is ahead!

[barrybelvedere]

Two more views of the lowered weights.

[barrybelvedere]

This is the only 7980 servo mounting setup that i have come up with (nothing fancy. Just beefy!) It contains this servo from breaking str8 off the front of the truck due to sheer servo strength, smashing it on rocks and abuse. It has a bit of an angle for the servo arm clearance so the bolt can be on the back side of the servo arm.