I need help - we todd did

[kgb424]

I took 100% of the smog crap off that was non functioning and smog is not required in Nevada, so its all good, only will sell it too another person from Nevada

I took off the tubes going in the exhaust manifolds, I made plates the fits and sealed them off and also made a plate for the back of cylinder head that was part of the smog crap

and I add a vacuum line on the intake manifold that goes to the carb, and plugged up some holes here and there

the stock carb was so gummed up from motor oil, it longer functioned and the would not run , needs a complete tear down and a lot of the sensors replaced, I asked Mark once and he said he would not rebuild it cause they are a pain in the ass, and there was too much shit I need to replace to make it work right

I could not find a place in my state that would rebuild it, the three Toyota dealers with service centers, I took it too would not even touch it, same with the only 2 carb place one does not touch imports, and the other guy,

I got a weird vibe from him like he would screw me instant and had heard bad things about him but I checked out and screw that guy

so too make the truck drive able, I bought a Weber kit and removed the smog crap

Mark fine tuned the carb and got her dialed in, and double checked my install and removal of the smog crap

and the truck has ran good since I put on the weber on it for a little over 3 years

the stock carb would only work with all the smog crap working properly and it wasn't, it failed 3 or 4 times so the

and previous owner went to the Smog referee in Cali and tried to get it exempt but they screwed him cause the repair costs where more then what the truck was worth

so he sold it too me cheap, and gave me a good deal

He even gave me half the money for the weber kit cause he was going to install a Weber, if he got the exempt cause, he lives in Northern Cali

and he had priced the kits and gave a link where to find the kit at killer price

He was also good people and helped me out

I drove the shit out of it for three years with no major problems until the carb got screwed up

[rnpnick]

Originally Posted by kgb424

the stock carb was so gummed up from motor oil

Is this a 2 stroke engine?

[kgb424]

no the previous owner never did any maintenance on the truck

he had a plugged up PCV valve and the vacuum lines screwed up and for some reason pissed oil all over the stock carb

and he just kept putting oil in it and it just kept running but running like shit

I changed the plugs, wires, cap and rotor, thermostat, PCV Valve, fuel filter, did the brakes, pads and shoes and bleed them, they were bad and installed the Weber and removed the smog crap

and the truck ran a thousand % better in a few days, I took my time removing moving and installing the carb and getting it running good

The previous owner was lazy and did not take care of the truck or due any maintence at all and the screwed up carb and him letting it go until it would not pass smog and he still didn't change any parts or due any repairs between the failed smog tests

I have looked in both of these Manuals and I can't find a trouble section or how diagnose my problems with carb, the is some info and help but it doesn't apply to my carb or what problems I'm having

there basically how to repair and replace parts very little trouble shooting or symptoms and what to check, I'm looking for something that says if it does this you check this, but there is nothing even close

so I'm back to square one

[crash]

But did ya remove the catalytic converter? From the exhaust?

[kgb424]

no the catalytic converter is still there

I did not remove it

I removed the smog pump and EGR valve and the manifolds and sensors and what ever else smog related

and the truck ran good until recently

its going to cost me $80 bucks

its a $40 cab ride from Marks shop to my house

and another $40 to get from my house to Marks shop

and that's if the truck will make the 10 or 12 miles at 45 miles per hour

so I can drop the truck off

but still don't have a ride

[kgb424]

An ex renter that was here for a little, he had a 89 Toyota with the V-6 and he cut the catalytic converter off and had nothing but problems with the truck and it never ran right and got shitty mileage

I did not remove catalytic converter or the O2 sensors and related parts

he did and screwed up a nice running truck

[WHITE-TRASH]

Efi /= carburetor. Cut the cat off or at least unbolt it from the head pipe to see if the problem goes away. Crash had a very valid point about exhaust blockage.

[kgb424]

ok

White Trash got a question for you

where do you measure from to set the float level

years ago when I used to rebuild my Mikuni Flat Slide Carbs

you would lay the throttle body on its side and used a float gauge

which was shaped like a capitol L and it was in Millimeters on one side and I think centimeters on the other side

would a 6 inch metal scale that reads in millimeters

would that work or do just eye ball it from experience with float levels

cause it one of the last things I can check my self

cause I took the throttle body off a second time and sprayed out the jets and passages again

is there a web site that explain where to measure from and shows using a gauge to measure it

cause I might still have a Mikuni float gauge around somewhere

I'm going to go look and see if I can find it

[kgb424]

yeah baby

I forgot I had 2 of these float gauges

one side is MM the other is 1/32nd scale

they were shoved in the 2 jet guides I forgot I had

would these gauges work to set the float level on the Weber ??

its a good thing I keep my shit cause you never know

when you need to pull a rabbit out of your ass

and you are measuring from the top of the float correct ??

and top of the float should level not tipped down or tipped up but level Correct ??

[kgb424]

ok I took some pictures of my measurements

I don't know if I'm doing this right

in the first picture the float is barely touching the needle and looks to be about 40 mm's , I could be total wrong

and in the second picture the float is pressing on the ball on the bottom of the needle and looks to be about 35mm's

I am not tweaking of bending the float arm until I'm sure that's the problem

and 2 of you mentioned it looked 40mm's and some else said 50mm's

so where are you measuring from

[WHITE-TRASH]

Weber Redline Air Filter Assemblies

Looks a bit high but that wouldn't cause the issue.

[59sled]

X2 on the catalytic converter. Is it a bolt on or welded. A bad catalytic can kill horsepower, more at higher RPM's.

If bolted on, take it off and run it open pipe up and down the road. See if that does anything.

[kgb424]

I will check catalytic converter tomorrow

I had the muffler replaced from the converter back a section of pipe and a muffler

so I might be able to unbolt the muffler and the converter, I got to look, cause I don't remember

so are you saying I can remove the catalytic converter ?? since I removed the smog crap ??

and just leave the 02 sensor that in the exhaust manifold ??

[kgb424]

I was going to try and see if I could get lucky

and spray some carb cleaner around the base of the carb and the manifold and the adapter plate

and see if it idles up, cause I might get lucky, and its a bad intake gasket that is causing problems at high RPM's

that I fix by pulling the carb and replace the gasket

but I don't have that kind of luck

[WHITE-TRASH]

The O2 sensor was for the stock carburetor. No 22r ever came with a check engine light or port to read codes from since there is no computer to send such signals. There should be 2 bolts at the front of the converter that hold the cat to the head pipe. It takes a 12mm to remove them if memory serves.

[kgb424]

the cat is welded on the side coming from engine the other side has bolts but it may also be welded and bolts don't look like there coming out , I got a couple of air impact wrenches and Saws All, if won't unbolt I'll get a metal saws all blade and cut it out of there and have a piece weld back so I can use the muffler and tail pipe section still

[kgb424]

I think I might of found the leak

with the truck warmed up and idling at its normal 800 to 1000 rpm

I sprayed the base of the carb with the cleaner and on the back side of the carb

where the throttle valve control lever connects your throttle cable to the carb

if you spray the carb cleaner on the throttle control lever the truck drops Rpm and starts to stall out and will stop running and if stop spraying the rpm's come back and the idles back to normal

spray all around that same spot it almost stalls the engine, so I may of found my problem

it looks like there is a seal around where the assembly goes into the carb and you have take the whole carb apart to replace it

and that's some thing that Mark needs to do,cause I don't how all the levels and springs go together ,

I seen how it is now but when in pieces I won't have a clue

and I would screw it up for sure

[kgb424]

the catalytic converter is welded on both sides

I the bolts I thought were a flange to separate the tail pipe

nope there for a support bracket

so I would have to make 2 cuts with the Saw All

to take out the converter

I'm going to home depot and buy a metal cutting blade for the Saws all

I might still cut it out unless the motor needs the back pressure the converter provides

the muffler is still there so it might provide back pressure so I cut out the converter

[KJ10]

How did you find this forum? Has something happened, causing you to lose the use of Google? Find out which model Weber you have, and search for it. Add in the term 'rebuild', then hit the "videos" button. May have to watch a couple to find a good one but, I can almost guarantee there will be more than a couple.

[KJ10]

I used to hate carbs. But, after wasting a bunch of money to have someone else "rebuild" one for me, I knew, "Any job worth doing is worth doing well." and "if I wanted it done right, I had to do it, MYSELF!" Never stop learning.