GT3B Hack Question and Answer Thread

[heyok]

If you have a 220 ohm resistor handy, put that in series with the flashing LED. I think that will still be bright enough to see and it should isolate things enough to stop the screen from dimming.

[foratm]

Originally Posted by losikid

So...follow the red, green is other important stuff

Global setup menu:
==================
- enter it by ENTER-long
- now menu items MODEL and NAME will start blinking
- select requested item by ROTATE and press ENTER
- use ROTATE to change value and press ENTER to end value changing
- press BACK-long or ENTER-long to end global setup menu,
    values will be saved to EEPROM
- selected menu items are indicated by following symbols:
    F        firmware version (this of course cannot be changed :-)
    L        backlight time            5s,10s...10m...MAX
    A        inactivity alarm        OFF,1m...10m
    LOW POWER!    battery low voltage        7.5...10.5V
   E.POINT    maximum allowed endpoint value    100...150%
        DANGER - values greater than 120% can damage
                your servo or will not be possible
                to transmit to receiver because of
                2.4GHz HF module limitation
        This danger zone will be indicated with a flashing "d" symbol
          for values greater than 120%
    1        dead zone for steering        0...50
    2        dead zone for throttle        0...50
    b        key beep            OFF/ON
    d        long press key delay        100...1000 miliseconds
    r + ALL    global reset - change to YES to set global configuration
                   and all models to default values
    r + MOD    all models reset - change to YES to set all models
                   to default values

Does this help, seems fairly straight forward to me but i can do a step by step if needed tomorrow evening

Ok so i have maxed out the servo end point and still have been having some problems. the one problem is that i got a used hitech 7950 and i can get it to full lock left but not right almost to lock position but not all the way.
Any ideas.

[foratm]

Ah ha i have figured it all out. I had to reset the radio models to stock then reprogram everything and it works a lot better... actually perfect.

[getbent]

Ok, I need some help. I took out the puk dig and installed dual esc's, I am using (2) axial ae-2 esc's, a castle bec, and a 3 ch reciever. I set up my radio according to these instructions http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/elect...ml#post3168067 . Problem is that when I try to dig, instead of locking the selected motor, it is actually sending a small amount of voltage to that motor causing it to spin. It also does this with the proportional control, I have them set up on my d/r switch and set to 20% incriments, when i adjust one motor to 100% it should stop spinning, but it doesnt , it still spins. I can hold the crawler in the air with no throttle applied and selsect rear dig, and it will cause that motor to start spinning slowly. Any ideas??

[Charlie-III]

Originally Posted by getbent

Ok, I need some help. I took out the punk dig and installed dual esc's, I am using (2) axial ae-2 esc's, a castle bec, and a 3 ch receiver.

Did you calibrate both ESC's to the RX?
Does one ESC have a little throttle trim in it?
Are both ESC's running the same firmware and throttle curve mapping?

[getbent]

(1) Did you calibrate both ESC's to the RX?

Yes, I calibrated both esc's to the RX.

(2) Does one ESC have a little throttle trim in it?

Both throttle trims are set the same

(3) Are both ESC's running the same firmware and throttle curve mapping?

I do not have a castle link, so I cannot check the throttle curve, however both escs respond the exact same to throtlle input, and it happens when I dig either front or rear, which makes me think its not in the esc's since both do the exact same thing. Thanks for theQuestions, maybe that will help narrow it down some.


yr

[Charlie-III]

Thanks for the replies.
Hopefully you've supplied enough info for Losikid to give advice, I do not know that radio or it's programming so I can't help much beyond the questions I asked.

[losikid]

Try a new model

[getbent]

Originally Posted by losikid

Try a new model

Ok, tried programming it to a new model memory (I think thats what you wanted me to do) Programmed it exactly like you laid out in the link I posted earlier, the only thing I had to do was go into the REV menu and rev ch2 and ch3 because the motors would spin backwards when throttling fwd and vice versa. Still does the same thing; when trying to you use the dig feature on the ch3 trim button, the motor that is supposed to be providing the drag brake actually starts spinning, also when using proportional, as soon as I hit 80% drag, it starts to spin. Hope that helps some.

[losikid]

Originally Posted by getbent

Ok, tried programming it to a new model memory (I think thats what you wanted me to do) Programmed it exactly like you laid out in the link I posted earlier, the only thing I had to do was go into the REV menu and rev ch2 and ch3 because the motors would spin backwards when throttling fwd and vice versa. Still does the same thing; when trying to you use the dig feature on the ch3 trim button, the motor that is supposed to be providing the drag brake actually starts spinning, also when using proportional, as soon as I hit 80% drag, it starts to spin. Hope that helps some.

Hmm, well. I'd say try and turn your dead band up on the esc's...or reflash the radio, flash it with 0.2.0 then 0.4.1

Sometimes it flashes funny, and causes funny stuff to happen

[getbent]

Got it, thanks for you support losikid. I turned up the dead band on my throttle channel and adjusted the trim towrad reverse some, then made sure the drag was maxxed out in both esc's. Working great now, just need to get it on the rocks and try out this whole dual esc fad! Thanks again!

[eric113]

Originally Posted by getbent

Got it, thanks for you support losikid. I turned up the dead band on my throttle channel and adjusted the trim towrad reverse some, then made sure the drag was maxxed out in both esc's. Working great now, just need to get it on the rocks and try out this whole dual esc fad! Thanks again!

It best to pick up castle link so you can tune/program esc's.

[squatch71]

Losi..when will you have more hack kits??

and where is the program you download..I know I have seen it, now I can't find it...


thanks

[losikid]

Originally Posted by squatch71

Losi..when will you have more hack kits??

and where is the program you download..I know I have seen it, now I can't find it...


thanks

Right now, didn't even see it went out of stock

Program is in the install instructions

[squatch71]

Originally Posted by losikid

Right now, didn't even see it went out of stock

Program is in the install instructions

seen it, was hoping to get back here and delete...seen both of them.

thanks, one on order.


*edit*

d/l'd the program and during, I got this message

[losikid]

Originally Posted by squatch71

seen it, was hoping to get back here and delete...seen both of them.

thanks, one on order.


*edit*

d/l'd the program and during, I got this message

You don't need parallel port drivers

[squatch71]

didn't think so...but wasn't sure how you were programming the thing


cheers

[RickM]

Well I am still wondering about this slower reverse thing. I am using this on a mini with the traxxis overdrive front axle mod, so I am getting more pull in forward when driving forward. Anyway in reverse I just don't appear to have the same wheelspeed. I checked the esc, checked my epa's, and also did a calibration. I did not think this was was such an issue with the spektrum setup I switched back to but it has been a bit since I did that. I am wondering if what I am seeing is subtle but still noticable, and maybe related to the overdrive front mod. Then again is this sounding like a setup issue?

[Charlie-III]

Originally Posted by RickM

Well I am still wondering about this slower reverse thing. I am using this on a mini with the traxxis overdrive front axle mod, so I am getting more pull in forward when driving forward. Anyway in reverse I just don't appear to have the same wheelspeed. I checked the esc, checked my epa's, and also did a calibration. I did not think this was was such an issue with the spektrum setup I switched back to but it has been a bit since I did that. I am wondering if what I am seeing is subtle but still noticable, and maybe related to the overdrive front mod. Then again is this sounding like a setup issue?

What kind of motor? You may have some advance timing in it for forward which would explain it.
How to resolve timing depends on motor type.

[RickM]

I am running a Rockhard motor that I actually switched at one point to see if that was causing my issue and it was not. I switched everything but the esc and it all came back to the GT3b in the end. I wrote up about this about two weeks ago in detail. In digging a bit into it today it brought my to something worth looking at. The trigger has a good bit of throw in forward but not in reverse. It would appear that it is more like a 70/30 throw (70%) in forward. that being said it would make the power band in reverse pretty sharp and possibly impact reverse negatively, and make reverse twitchy. That being said I took a very small grinding bit on a dremel and bored out some more room for the trigger to go in reverse and I think I fixed my wheelspeed issue as well as the reverse throw seams to be bigger.

Any chance this can be addressed with a mod losikid (that is if I am seeing this right)?