RC4WDs New Micro Crawler

[papabash]

Originally Posted by Aeronuclear

Emm... anyone? Bit confused now. I originally thought to widen the throw I deepen the two slots？

Sorry, guess I'm not being clear enough, I should've taken pictures before putting it back together. The idea is to grind the inside of the outer cup so that it opens up the angle a bit more than stock. Just do a little at a time though, since these things are pretty tiny and you don't want it to break while driving. I see no benefit from deepening the slots; in fact, it would only make the cup weaker. On my setup the pin that goes through the dogbone rides at the outer edge of the cup when turning.

[Sparks1337]

No leave the slots alone. Remember the whole thing is turning - when the slots are aligned horizontally they might affect the steering lock, but another 1/4 turn of the shaft and they are vertical and have no impact on the steering. The bind / lack of lock is caused by the inner profile of the drive cup.

Below is my exaggerated attempt at a cross-section of the drive cup and dogbone, with stock on left, re-profiled on right. You can see how when steering the dogbone shaft has limited angle of travel due to the inner shoulder and narrow opening of the stock cup. Pushing a cone shaped grinding bit or countersink bit into the cup removes the shoulder and thins the metal around the opening, allowing the dogbone shaft a much greater angle:



Hope that makes sense! Like the man says, just take a bit off at a time and check - going too far will weaken the cup or could cause the dogbone pin to pop out of the top of the slot.

[Aeronuclear]

Originally Posted by papabash

Sorry, guess I'm not being clear enough, I should've taken pictures before putting it back together. The idea is to grind the inside of the outer cup so that it opens up the angle a bit more than stock. Just do a little at a time though, since these things are pretty tiny and you don't want it to break while driving. I see no benefit from deepening the slots; in fact, it would only make the cup weaker. On my setup the pin that goes through the dogbone rides at the outer edge of the cup when turning.

Thank you that makes it clear...

[Aeronuclear]

Originally Posted by Sparks1337

No leave the slots alone. Remember the whole thing is turning - when the slots are aligned horizontally they might affect the steering lock, but another 1/4 turn of the shaft and they are vertical and have no impact on the steering. The bind / lack of lock is caused by the inner profile of the drive cup.

Below is my exaggerated attempt at a cross-section of the drive cup and dogbone, with stock on left, re-profiled on right. You can see how when steeringthe dogbone shaft has limited angle of travel due to the inner shoulder and narrow opening of the stock cup. Pushing a cone shaped grinding bit or countersink bit into the cup removes the shoulder and thins the metal around the opening, allowing the dogbone shaft a much greater angle:



Hope that makes sense! Just take a bit off at a time and check - going too far will weaken the cup or could cause the dogbone pin to pop out of the top of the slot.

Cheers for the sketch, great help guys...


Guys, widened the cup and shaved the knuckle, I can achieve the same angle as photo from Papabash. But that is when the cup slots are in the vertical position, which mean the dog bone is upright in the cup. In the next quarter turn, when the dog bone and cup slots are horizontal, it forces the angle of turning back to normal limit.

This is telling me that the slot depth is insufficient hence forcing the steering to turn less. Back to square one. Do you guys have this issue? I think I might have to grind the slot too.

[nate94gt]

Any of you guys replace your wheels and tires and want to sell them to me? I would line to put them on my 1/24 temper

[Aeronuclear]

[QUOTE=Aeronuclear;5658001]Cheers for the sketch, great help guys...




Guys, widened the cup and shaved the knuckle, I can achieve the same angle as photo from Papabash. But that is when the cup slots are in the vertical position, which mean the dog bone is upright in the cup. In the next quarter turn, when the dog bone and cup slots are horizontal, it forces the angle of turning back to normal limit.

This is telling me that the slot depth is insufficient hence forcing the steering to turn less. Back to square one. Do you guys have this issue? I think I might have to grind the slot too.

[Aeronuclear]

New video

https://quik.gopro.com/v/B6XiFXhmHF/

[SurfinStud]

Originally Posted by Aeronuclear

New video

https://quik.gopro.com/v/B6XiFXhmHF/

Did you make the mudflaps, or where did you source them? Id be interested to see how theyre mounted; I have an idea for material and a way to make them.

Cool video. Looks capable!
Nice control with such a wide range of RPM for such little reaction

[Sparks1337]

[QUOTE=Aeronuclear;5659762]

Originally Posted by Aeronuclear

Cheers for the sketch, great help guys...




Guys, widened the cup and shaved the knuckle, I can achieve the same angle as photo from Papabash. But that is when the cup slots are in the vertical position, which mean the dog bone is upright in the cup. In the next quarter turn, when the dog bone and cup slots are horizontal, it forces the angle of turning back to normal limit.

This is telling me that the slot depth is insufficient hence forcing the steering to turn less. Back to square one. Do you guys have this issue? I think I might have to grind the slot too.

I shaved mine a little bit less than papabash I think, but not much. I didn't get the issue you're having - I get the angle whatever position the dogbone is in. It does judder a bit at full lock when running on carpet but I've not tested it on a lower grip surface yet.

[Aeronuclear]

Originally Posted by SurfinStud

Did you make the mudflaps, or where did you source them? Id be interested to see how theyre mounted; I have an idea for material and a way to make them.

Cool video. Looks capable!
Nice control with such a wide range of RPM for such little reaction

Thanks.

For the mudflap, I simply took the stock plastic rear bumper that come with the flaps, which I think are way too short, and extended them. First cut the flaps As photos below, then simply cut a small piece of black fabric and glue it to extend the flap. Job done!

Oh, I also painted the Land Rover logo, first, thick white paint to start with to allow the paint to sink into the words, quickly wipe away the excess paint so that only the words are painted, wait for this to dry, then carefully paint the green bit.





For the motor, I file the shaft of an N20 reduction motor from 3mm to about 1.5mm to fit the stock gear on, and mount it back to the gearbox with some modifications to the holes of the minuting screws for the original motor.

[Aeronuclear]

[QUOTE=Sparks1337;5663299]

Originally Posted by Aeronuclear

I shaved mine a little bit less than papabash I think, but not much. I didn't get the issue you're having - I get the angle whatever position the dogbone is in. It does judder a bit at full lock when running on carpet but I've not tested it on a lower grip surface yet.

Thanks, is the juddder obvious if you run it up side down at full lock? I mean with the 4 wheels pointed to the sky..

[SurfinStud]

Originally Posted by Aeronuclear

Thanks.

For the mudflap, I simply took the stock plastic rear bumper that come with the flaps, which I think are way too short, and extended them. First cut the flaps As photos below, then simply cut a small piece of black fabric and glue it to extend the flap. Job done!

Oh, I also painted the Land Rover logo, first, thick white paint to start with to allow the paint to sink into the words, quick wipe away the excess paint so that only the words are painted, wait for this to dry, then carefully paint the green bit.

Yours came with mud flaps along with the plastic rear bumper?

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

[Aeronuclear]

Originally Posted by SurfinStud

Yours came with mud flaps along with the plastic rear bumper?

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Yes, there is steel rear bumper and a plastic one, with the flaps attached

See the photos in the link, one of the photos show the plastic bumper.

https://greensmodels.co.uk/products/...h-d90-body-set

[Sparks1337]

[QUOTE=Aeronuclear;5663345]

Originally Posted by Sparks1337

Thanks, is the juddder obvious if you run it up side down at full lock? I mean with the 4 wheels pointed to the sky..

Well mine isn't wired up at the moment but turning by hand with the servo disconnected and held at full lock by hand there doesn't seem to be an issue. I'll test it again under power but I think it is just the axles winding up on carpet with the sharper lock and no diffs.

Strange that you're not getting the lock before the pins hit. Did you remove material from down inside the cup as well as at the mouth?

[Aeronuclear]

[QUOTE=Sparks1337;5663421]

Originally Posted by Aeronuclear

Well mine isn't wired up at the moment but turning by hand with the servo disconnected and held at full lock by hand there doesn't seem to be an issue. I'll test it again under power but I think it is just the axles winding up on carpet with the sharper lock and no diffs.

Strange that you're not getting the lock before the pins hit. Did you remove material from down inside the cup as well as at the mouth?

To be honest, I bought mine second hand, The problem might have started before. I did deepened the slots though but didn't solve the problem.

At the end I removed the golden sleeve washer thing where the bottom knuckle screw is, this helps with reducing the judder, not completely but I can do a fairly sharp lock now. The front wheels now have camber but it's ok for my slow crawl speed.

[SurfinStud]

Originally Posted by Aeronuclear

Yes, there is steel rear bumper and a plastic one, with the flaps attached

See the photos in the link, one of the photos show the plastic bumper.

https://greensmodels.co.uk/products/...h-d90-body-set

I received all four of the other accessories but not the 5th being the plastic bumper and mud flaps...... That sucks. They are cool. Ill make mine from Flex Seal...


Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

[Aeronuclear]

Originally Posted by SurfinStud

I received all four of the other accessories but not the 5th being the plastic bumper and mud flaps...... That sucks. They are cool. Ill make mine from Flex Seal...




Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Contact the seller and request for it...

[ZippoMan]

Originally Posted by SurfinStud

I received all four of the other accessories but not the 5th being the plastic bumper and mud flaps...... That sucks. They are cool. Ill make mine from Flex Seal...


Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

I got the same as you!! RC4WD is cutting back on the stuff!! Lipos with no balance leads and now no bumpers with mud flaps!! Weird!!

Here is what they show and you get now!!!!!!!!
http://store.rc4wd.com/RC4WD-118-Gel...et_p_4914.html

[Natedog]

I really like that these are "normal" ring and pinion axles, not worm drive. More wheellspeed and durability this way, wish RC4WD or somebody would produce a stronger motor to fit this without using the tiny reduction box on the front of the motor. These axles on Ambush chassis and tranny would be hot!

[R.Billy Rob]