11-23-2007, 08:05 AM | #61 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: trying to find out what a TVuPer is.....
Posts: 1,851
| I dont see how you guys use these torches. Go to Lowes, get a self igniting head... you will be 100X's happier. My tip is not adjustable, but it is very high flow.
|
Sponsored Links | |
11-23-2007, 11:33 AM | #62 |
I lost my vendor privileges Join Date: May 2006 Location: TOP OF THE HILL
Posts: 3,014
| |
11-24-2007, 10:04 AM | #63 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Minnesota
Posts: 1,516
|
What Harris Flux are you guys using? I'm ordering some Safety Silv 45 and am not sure what flux to get. Is the 45 alright to use? it's a little cheaper than the 56.
|
11-24-2007, 11:17 AM | #64 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: trying to find out what a TVuPer is.....
Posts: 1,851
| |
11-24-2007, 01:03 PM | #65 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Minnesota
Posts: 1,516
|
Thanks mrpink just ordered up some 45 and Flux... Now I need to get me some brake line and give it a whirl. I'll be sure to post up my first try at this.
|
11-24-2007, 06:23 PM | #66 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: USA
Posts: 11,196
|
Good reading guys. very nice tips. I guess I'll give it a try soon.
|
12-07-2007, 12:30 AM | #67 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: San Jose
Posts: 1,697
|
Thanks to everybody for all the helpful information.... Double J, nice video very helpful. One question not answered.....? >>>> What is a cheaper solder than safety silv...., just to practice with? Thanks, |
12-07-2007, 09:37 PM | #68 |
Newbie Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Denver / Northglenn
Posts: 35
|
I know from reading bicycle frame building sites that brass or bronz brazing wire is cheaper but the heat to melt it is so high that mapp wont get you there.
|
12-08-2007, 08:42 PM | #69 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: San Jose
Posts: 1,697
|
okay...thanks for the info.... I was mainly wondering what is cheap for practicing on steel brake line....no bronze or alum yet..... any suggestions? |
12-10-2007, 05:36 PM | #70 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: between heaven and hell.
Posts: 3,367
| Quote:
And the price per troy ounce is around $20-$25 each and you can easily do some practice and then a complete tuber with it and still have some left over. Let me ask you this.. Would you practice hockey to play basketball? I don't think so. You should practice with what you'd be using. | |
12-11-2007, 01:32 PM | #71 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Canada, eh.
Posts: 2,919
|
Maybe this is more building than brazing related, but when making a "loop" based frame (e.g. Super Goat), where do you make the joint on the main loop?
|
12-11-2007, 08:34 PM | #72 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Yuma
Posts: 285
|
what about brazing plates for link mounts or skid plates? any trick i have had alot of trouble with that. thanks.
|
12-11-2007, 09:20 PM | #73 | ||
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: between heaven and hell.
Posts: 3,367
| Quote:
I Personally try to meet them at the rear of the rig because I feel it gets less abuse than the front and is usually the larger area on a tuber making the meeting points easier to line up. Quote:
But once you start one end you can easily move the heat letting the silv flow along the edges. leaves a nice seam. | ||
12-11-2007, 09:54 PM | #74 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Yuma
Posts: 285
|
thanks alot ill try that
|
12-11-2007, 10:30 PM | #75 | |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: San Jose
Posts: 1,697
| Quote:
I do agree with your logic. I just wanted to see if I could not spend as much money cause silv is kinda expensive and this will be the first time building a tuber and brazing. thanks for your help, anymore suggestions please let me know. | |
12-12-2007, 09:02 AM | #76 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Canada, eh.
Posts: 2,919
| Quote:
Thanks for the reply. Makes sense to put the "weak" spot where it isn't exposed. | |
12-19-2007, 09:21 AM | #77 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Canada, eh.
Posts: 2,919
|
A few more questions, mostly safety related that I couldn't find answers to in my searches: 1. Removing the galvanized coating. I know you can use sandpaper or muriatic acid (or just don't breathe when brazing!). I hit the brakeline with a sander. Yeah, looks shiny, but I don't know if it's taken the galvanized coating off. Is it enough to just sand it to a shine, or is the coating thicker than that? 2. Is it safe to/do people braze indoors? I'm talking inside my house in the basement over the concrete foundation (using a raised metal slab, not brazing directly on the concrete). I don't have a garage or workshop, and it's too dang cold outside. 3. Storing MAPP gas. I plan on getting the self-igniting head. I also have a four year old in the house who, while we store everything well out of reach, is very capable of getting into almost all cupboards, etc. I might just lock it away, but I'm curious as to how easily the MAPP gas is ignited with the self-igniting head (i.e., does it have some built in safety features to prevent curious fingers from accidentally igniting it)? Is it better to store partially used gas without the head on it? 4. Anything special in the way of clothing used while brazing? Obviously no loose shirts, etc., but it doesn't look like you have to go to the extent that you do with welding. Thanks again. I'm not paranoid, just trying to be as safe as possible. |
12-20-2007, 01:54 PM | #78 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: between heaven and hell.
Posts: 3,367
| Quote:
I'd also suggest using safety glasses, I've on more than one occasion have had a piece of metal or metal dust get into my eyes and it's not fun. Although I don't always put them on I defenatly should do so. I'm generally in such a hurry I simply forget to put em on untill I get something in my eyes, then it's flush and put em on. So lets do a little recap on safety: 1. wear safety goggles 2. wear dust mask 3. gloves to protect your hand so you don't get burned (thick leather gloves are fine) 4. Keep away from children. 5. Always use your best jugement, if you think it's not safe it probably isn't. | |
12-21-2007, 08:17 AM | #79 |
Colt Python/SR9c Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: out in the shop, reloading ammo!
Posts: 8,626
|
1. No matter what, you should ALWAYS grind/sand down to bare metal on your joints before you braze. 2. I have brazed in an 8' x 10' enclosed shed before. You will be fine in the basement. As long as you don't mind the wife griping about the smell though 3. There is no child lock on them.. turn on gas and pop, its on... I use the old fashion basic head anyway. That way you need an igniter to fire it up. As for storing it without the head on, that really depends. I have smelled/heard some bottles leaking once you take the heads off. As long as you do not smell it coming out, it will be fine to store though. 4. Nope, no need to worry about clothing. As you said, it is nothing like welding. Although, keep some leather gloves near by if you plan to grab the piece afterwards. also water works to cool things down quicker |
12-22-2007, 09:32 PM | #80 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: In Cali.
Posts: 4,109
|
I did it. Worked out okay. Thanks a bunch for all the help with this thread. Started with this. Did a little grinding and what not...then took the torch to it! Painted it too. Here is what it looks like under the truck. |
| |