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Thread: Joywrex's Creeper Build (First RC ever)

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Old 07-30-2011, 02:12 PM   #121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluenosegoat View Post
I actually twisted the plastic part of a Traxxas shaft so as a temp I put back on one of the "new" factory shafts- the ones with the bigger yoke and pin keepers and so far it has held up well. ( I bought another kit just for parts about a month ago) Maybe venom might send you the pin keepers for free? They come in the newer kits as an upgrade. Worth an email to them?
I emailed them and they are sending me new shafts no questions asked. Thanks Venom!
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Old 07-30-2011, 04:09 PM   #122
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I bent the front upper links and added these little pieces that I printed. I would have rather used one screw but I don't have one that long or a little rod that is tapped on both ends that would go in the middle... I wonder if these parts are actually making the axle mounts MORE likely to break...


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Old 07-30-2011, 04:53 PM   #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joywrex View Post
I bent the front upper links and added these little pieces that I printed. I would have rather used one screw but I don't have one that long or a little rod that is tapped on both ends that would go in the middle... I wonder if these parts are actually making the axle mounts MORE likely to break...


nice sublinks but the front upper tabs on the axle have to support each other...the way you have them will break...only question is when.
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Old 07-30-2011, 05:21 PM   #124
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YES YOU DEFINATLEY NEED A 15mm SPACER BETWEEN THE UPPER LINK TABS. IF ITS THREADED ALL THE WAY THROUGH YOU CAN USE A BOLT ON EACH SIDE
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Old 07-30-2011, 07:27 PM   #125
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Is this:

http://www.rcplanet.com/Associated_F..._p/asc1105.htm

The same as this:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...u=07124228000P

Just wondering...

My shocks leak a lot and supposedly this help.
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Old 07-30-2011, 07:31 PM   #126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joywrex View Post
Is this:

http://www.rcplanet.com/Associated_F..._p/asc1105.htm

The same as this:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...u=07124228000P

Just wondering...

My shocks leak a lot and supposedly this help.
YOU PUT THAT TIRE SLIME IN YOUR SHOCKS AND THEY WILL BE DONE.


NO THEY ARE NOT THE SAME.
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Old 07-30-2011, 07:56 PM   #127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joywrex View Post
Is this:

http://www.rcplanet.com/Associated_F..._p/asc1105.htm

The same as this:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...u=07124228000P

Just wondering...

My shocks leak a lot and supposedly this help.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CREEPERBOB View Post
YOU PUT THAT TIRE SLIME IN YOUR SHOCKS AND THEY WILL BE DONE.


NO THEY ARE NOT THE SAME.
as those may not be the same item. team associated green slime does help when it is put on the o-rings when assembled. i would recomend getting some of the green slime and some new o-rings and rebuilding your shocks.
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Old 07-30-2011, 08:00 PM   #128
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I used Axial 7x15mm spacers, they're threaded on both ends so you can use a shorter bolt. The part no. is AXIAXA grey (2) pieces for $4.19 + shipping, bought them off of ebay.

Ed
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Old 07-31-2011, 02:22 PM   #129
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I went to a crawling event this last week and got to see how the big kids do it. The place was set up for much more intense rigs. There was a competition which I entered and lost instantly but it was fun to get some tips.

I was the only one with a shafty. The only one without dig. The only 'sportsman.' So I guess I both lost and won...Everyone else had berg's.

Anyways, I traded my big hardcase batt for the two smaller packs here:


I want to mount the battery here in the front but I'm still not sure. I want to do the bta steering mod soon which would get in the way. Maybe I should just do that now then mount the batt on the axle next to the servo.


I successfully tapped both sides of some aluminum rod so the front links wont break their mounts. The 3d printed parts are going to have to be made from a stronger material asap. I hope to machine some parts soon (once I learn how to CNC) so these abs parts are basically working protos.


I finally sanded down the skid plate mounting bosses:


The lower links were grabbing onto rocks like velcro so I bent the lower links like you guys were suggesting:


The pinion angle on the front axle is different from the back. I am going to add 6mm spacers on the front lower links so that they are as long as they need to be to get the pinion a little more horizontal. Or I could get more durable shafts...
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Old 07-31-2011, 04:18 PM   #130
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I put new 30 wt shock oil in all of the shocks.

Did some electronics rearranging.



Where do people route the antenna wire? I just wrapped it up and taped it onto the receiver...

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Old 07-31-2011, 04:27 PM   #131
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You can do just about anything ya want to with the 2.4 antenna, as long as ya don't cut it.
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Old 07-31-2011, 05:33 PM   #132
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I've been doing lots of tweaks this weekend. Ill clean the house in a minute...

I cut the body a little more and lowered it overall. I don't like the more aggressive stance's looks but it helps me flip myself over a lot so whatever.
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Old 07-31-2011, 06:52 PM   #133
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How do people power their led lights?

I took this laser out of an old contour camera and want to put it in the car (i dont really know why)


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Old 07-31-2011, 07:41 PM   #134
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how many vdc did the lazer have powering it originally?
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Old 08-01-2011, 12:33 PM   #135
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I can hook it to a power supply and run it off 3v. It works on 6v too but I don't know if it would survive on 6v very long. I'm not sure.
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Old 08-01-2011, 05:45 PM   #136
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what kind and how many batteries did the original lazer take?
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Old 08-01-2011, 07:36 PM   #137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chappy4o View Post
what kind and how many batteries did the original lazer take?
I was probably a pen lazer that took a couple AAA's or button cells..typically 3vdc...a CC BEC can be a regulated power source for lights and lazer stuff and can provide more than enough on the amps straight form the main rc car battery with minimal drain. The are other lower cost BEC's that would work too...
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Old 08-01-2011, 11:01 PM   #138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chappy4o View Post
what kind and how many batteries did the original lazer take?
It took a 3.7v li-ion battery.
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Old 08-01-2011, 11:03 PM   #139
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Originally Posted by rmdesignworks View Post
I was probably a pen lazer that took a couple AAA's or button cells..typically 3vdc...a CC BEC can be a regulated power source for lights and lazer stuff and can provide more than enough on the amps straight form the main rc car battery with minimal drain. The are other lower cost BEC's that would work too...
I have a bec at 6v for the servo. I guess I could just connect it to that.
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Old 08-02-2011, 04:54 AM   #140
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i think I would solder in like a 2.2k resistor inline to the lazer
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