Have tech questions? Will answer.

[tapped-out]

Voodoobrew I sent you a pm

Sent from my SM-J737V using Tapatalk

[tapped-out]

JRH please read post 975.

[cootertwo]

How to setup a Radiolink 6 channel transmitter and receiver to a RS10XT and still have the steering choices.

[JohnRobHolmes]

I’ll have to circle back for the revolver bearings. I don’t have one at home to measure.

Puller motors are timed at lowest amp draw and not physical timing. Part of this is because zero isn’t always zero due to variations in the armature. The other part is the magnet design. It does not allow for timing advance, motor efficiency goes down faster than power goes up. The motor is specifically designed for crawling, so the magnetic circuit trades off timing changes for much much smoother startups. Brush wear and arcing is not an issue at “zero” like normal motors, which is also due to the magnetic design.

The Puller is non standard in this regard. Everything you would normally assume about timing advance does not apply.

[JohnRobHolmes]

Originally Posted by cootertwo

How to setup a Radiolink 6 channel transmitter and receiver to a RS10XT and still have the steering choices.

Never heard of it. Can’t help, sorry.

[dr frankenstyle]

I just received my TorqueMaster Expert 550 that I ordered for my TRX-4. After watching your video on timing, I see that it's set at zero advance. Is there any need to advance the timing for the reverse rotation, or should I just install it and enjoy?
jim

I watched the video again, and I put it at about 6-deg of reverse advance, as recommended. Can't wait to try it out.

I got it in the truck today and I gotta say... it's ALL THAT and a Slice of Pie! Even with the stock esc it's SO much stronger and smoother, especially on the bottom end.
Hats Off to you, Sir. My next motor will definitely be a Holmes Hobbies!!

[tapped-out]

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

I’ll have to circle back for the revolver bearings. I don’t have one at home to measure.

Puller motors are timed at lowest amp draw and not physical timing. Part of this is because zero isn’t always zero due to variations in the armature. The other part is the magnet design. It does not allow for timing advance, motor efficiency goes down faster than power goes up. The motor is specifically designed for crawling, so the magnetic circuit trades off timing changes for much much smoother startups. Brush wear and arcing is not an issue at “zero” like normal motors, which is also due to the magnetic design.

The Puller is non standard in this regard. Everything you would normally assume about timing advance does not apply.

Thank you JRH.

If I was to time a puller to lowest amp draw how many volts would I apply to motor while connected to a meter?

I noticed a buddy of mine as his puller motors wired with esc red wire to neg side of motor and esc black wire to positive side of motor.

I would think he should flip his endbell 180* for correct polarity and correct forward rotation. Or is this not an issue with the puller? because if endbell is in stock location from HH motor is set @ 0* timing.

sorry for all the questions but better to ask then burn up a great product.

[JohnRobHolmes]

Voltage when setting amp draw isn’t important, minimum will always be the same spot. No need for your buddy to flip the endbell, once it’s zerod it’s typically fine for either direction.

[tapped-out]

Thanks JRH.

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

Do you ever perform the "motor test" in the Castle Link software and/or do you ever set Torque Limit? I can't think of why you'd want to do that.

Also, are you the Holmes bicycles guy?

I'll quote my post a couple pages back because this thread moved quite a bit since I posted it.

Also, when are you getting full-size 1800kv Revolvers back on stock?

[durok]

Jato...

I'm seeing them in stock now at the Holmes Hobbies site.

[JohnRobHolmes]

Yep, revolvers are fully stocked.

I never do the motor test function, as I don't ever need to limit torque beyond what I can do with my trigger finger.

Having said that, there may be a future update that will make the motor test function extremely useful. I'm not sure if Castle will release it or if I will have it on my controllers exclusively, but we are working on new features that will be icing on the cake.

[whitrzac]

Saw an old picture of a friends 1/8 with the motor wires braided from way back when because otherwise they would mess with AM/FM radios.


How much crosstalk/emi is there between motor poles and the wires?

Does it make any difference in performance to reduce it?




I use to have a few different setups that the wires would twitch on when under load too

[TheLetterJ]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

Also, when are you getting full-size 1800kv Revolvers back on stock?

They're back in stock at RPP now too, I just ordered one this morning.

[JohnRobHolmes]

There can be some cross talk, especially on looooooong phase wires. Braiding them helps lower the inductance of the phase wires and helps sensorless operation, it also can help reduce EMF that could interfere with radio or sensor wires.


I also have some setups where the wires will move under load. A low enough resistance motor (high kv) will even allow the wires to jump when the ESC is booting up and sending bleeps for arming. What is really fun, is to have such long wires on an ESC that it can make noise without a motor plugged in. The wires themselves can become a speaker!

[MasteroFlego]

That's super interesting, I braided the wires on one of my go fast rigs just so they wouldn't flop around. I knew braiding them would do something electrically, but I didn't know if it was good or bad.

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk

[tapped-out]

Hey JRH, berg comp rig, br-mini's, with team puller 13t xx wire 500's motors powered by a nano-tech 450mah 3s 65-130c battery.

Out of curiosity I'm sure you'd know how many amps do the puller motors draw continuously and burst/torque stall?

Br-mini specs on website are 30a continuous, 80a burst
Just wondering about the demand the puller motors want.

[Voodoobrew]

Isnt this something you can get from the data loging?
Ive not realy used data logging except once but I think it had amp draw on it.
I would never lock up the tires and hammer down to find the max amp draw though and I think that's how you do it. maybe you have to add resistors in line to stop it from cooking.

[tapped-out]

Originally Posted by Voodoobrew

Isnt this something you can get from the data loging?
Ive not realy used data logging except once but I think it had amp draw on it.
I would never lock up the tires and hammer down to find the max amp draw though and I think that's how you do it. maybe you have to add resistors in line to stop it from cooking.

No I haven't used my castle link for anything other then basic settings and updating of esc's. But I plan on buying a multimeter today.

Edit: I watched a video on castle data logging looks like I can find this information there if I enable it. And if it's an option with br-mini esc.

[mikemcE]

JRH, question ???
16t handwound crawlmaster on a 1080 vs a 1800 revolver on a SW4.
Which will have the smoothest startup on a 7# rig running 3s?


Hang up and Drive