Alex's berg take I

[AlexG]

That's a good idea! I will try first some axial 10mm threaded spacers as I have some coming. If they fail that will be my next option.

[AlexG]

Just wanted to share some info on my TX programming.

When I bought my 4pl I set the dig and esc rate on DT1 and DT2 but I wasnt confortable with it so they both ended on DT3 and DT4. I found it much easier to use and faster for me.

Then when I switched on the berg I made a couple more changes. First I limted my ch4 epa's at 95 to keep the rear axle from pushing to much. Also I programmed a proportional mix between ch1 (master) and ch4 (slave). So my rear motor slow down (-5%) as I steer. This mix is working awesome for me. Only downside is when in reverse the rear motor spin faster when I steer and It kills my steering radius. The fix is to assign a button to turn it off when needed, in my case sw2.sld

Last problem I had with this radio is the esc rate. When I'm running and adjusting my rate I tend to keep track of where I am and to go back in neutral I need to go all the way up (120%) and 4 clic down (5% increment). Sometimes there's some noise around and I can't hear the beep and it takes too long. My fix is to assign anothers switch for the esc rate but in 100% increment. So I flick the switch two time down and up one time to get in neutral.

I'm absolutely in love with my 4pl! I like the programming possibilities, you can get your radio set to your needs and pretty easily.

[AlexG]

Since I added the two strip of polycarb on the rear of my chassis to protect the shock I wanted to give my chassis a skinny look.



I'm trying to loose a cpl gram off my chassis so I'll redo some panels, I removed the bed rollcage brace and the "skid" bearings. The chassis feels stiff enough

[Tgreer]

Alright Alex, post up a pick of your rig from the side with no wheels, so we can get a good look at your link geo!

I'm testing alot of setups, I might as well try yours

[AlexG]

Originally Posted by Tgreer

Alright Alex, post up a pick of your rig from the side with no wheels, so we can get a good look at your link geo!

I'm testing alot of setups, I might as well try yours

Here's how the truck is set right now.




I changed a couple of things, this pictures is with the V2 upper link mount on. The front upper link mount is made for the same upper lenght but with the row of holes 2.5mm lower. I changed the thickness a bit too, I was running a single 2.5mm thick mount up front. Never got any problem with it but the new one is 2mm doubled mount. The rear link mount is a bit different, it's made for shorter rear upper (-5~10mm) and doubled too for more wear resistance.

These changes are un-tested yet.

[Tgreer]

That's what I thought, we are actually not very far off from each other! I'm mounted the same on the upper link mounts, and the front and rear uppers are mounted 1 hole lower than yours at the chassis. I've been all over the place with upper link placement, and so far through all the testing this has proven the best for me with my rig at 4.35 pounds.

Just took a second look, I think I might actually be one hole lower on my front link mount.

[AlexG]

V1 on top and V2 below.



Front




Rear

[AlexG]

I hacked my RR battery mount, not much of it left so I'm thinking about doing an 100% home made battery mount. I ditched the long screw, the spacer and the nut for a shorter screw threaded in the lower link mount.

Looks hacksawed but




Also while I was at it I replaced my Dlux gear box cover for some CF one because the front was bent and catchy.

[AlexG]

Got my new shafts today




Everything went together fine, however I grabbed the truck by the KW and cycled the steering a few times then I broke one of my weight holder I learned my lesson.

The balance point seems to be right at the lower mounting point with dona's up front and rover's out back so I'll live with it until I get some new one.

[RcBro]

Shoot me a pm with what side you need and your address. I'll have it out in the am!

[AlexG]

Wow, thanks a lot Will! I'll send you a pm

[Chris_The_Battery_Man]

Ever try out the shafts? I am hoping you have good news for me so I can know weather or not to proceed with this project.

[AlexG]

Not really

At first I ran really hard for a couple packs and they held up. I noticed that they were getting sloppy at locker pack after pack then 3wd

The al locker didn't survive the small tang but the shafts did. So I felt more confident about them and swapped a stock locker in to see if they hold up.

They did fine for 10 packs but then a small drop from a cliff 2ft high where you hit the ground running and CLACK!

After inspection the shaft broke. I think it's all due the width of the tang. It was really hard the get the broken part off the locker because the shafts started to chew on the locker so I think the breakage it's due to a centering issue.

[DickyT]

Originally Posted by AlexG

Not really

At first I ran really hard for a couple packs and they held up. I noticed that they were getting sloppy at locker pack after pack then 3wd

The al locker didn't survive the small tang but the shafts did. So I felt more confident about them and swapped a stock locker in to see if they hold up.

They did fine for 10 packs but then a small drop from a cliff 2ft high where you hit the ground running and CLACK!

After inspection the shaft broke. I think it's all due the width of the tang. It was really hard the get the broken part off the locker because the shafts started to chew on the locker so I think the breakage it's due to a centering issue.

Talk to Erik about 1:8 buggy uni's He and I discussed it a while back, I did not want to change from my 300 shafts with the bully stubs I modded. Stubs is running that setup though. Having seen it in person, it is awesome!

[RcBro]

That tang needs to be bigger or a new steel locker designed. The key to our lockers holding is due to the larger berg tang. This is even more evident with the aluminum dlux shafts. You'll see the tang is larger then stock and as a result he machines out our lockers to accept them.

[Erik D_lux]

Originally Posted by RcBro

That tang needs to be bigger or a new steel locker designed.

The universal shafts I make now have a SMALLER tang than those and your lockers and the shafts hold up great.

Edit:

To add to it, when I first built my shafts I had this idea that the 7075 lockers would not hold up. I ended up making the shaft too short without knowing it. I ended up stripping a stock steel locker out but I put the 7075 shaft in and it didnt. I think that says a lot about the strength of the 7075 lockers.

[ittybitty]

Pics of said 1:8 shafts?

[TSK]

Originally Posted by ittybitty

Pics of said 1:8 shafts?

Pretty sure they are talking about the Bully universal Erik makes.

[Erik D_lux]

Originally Posted by TheSCorpionKing

Pretty sure they are talking about the Bully universal Erik makes.

Yeah, and we are calling them "Dlux shafts" now.

There are pics in my build thread and vendors threads. I dont want to take over Alex's thread.

[Tgreer]

It almost looks like the way the locker is warn out, that it was not fully engaged. Like maybe the shaft where a little short!